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Cheap 3D Printers?

Discussion in 'Hobby Engineering' started by Aussiejuggalo, Apr 25, 2015.

  1. boneburner

    boneburner Member

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    doing the rounds - reviews for the Elegoo Mars and the slightly cheaper Elegoo Longer model. Is this the price point for MSLA (masked stereolithography) resin printing to take off?

    They come with advantages - the main one being resolution, say goodbye to print lines(™) . The reverse is also true, with a much messier process and a more.... fragrant print medium.


    *spins the wheel and chooses random review of each model*




     
    Last edited: Jul 16, 2019
  2. OP
    OP
    Aussiejuggalo

    Aussiejuggalo Member

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    Most of the smaller resin printers are cheap. But remember you'll be swapping the LCD and FEP quite a lot, the LCD depending on how much you print and the colours you use, you could be swapping the it every couple of months so that drives running cost of these things up a lot.

    The thing that bugs me with the resin printers is the size, no reason we can't have 7 - 10" screens instead of the 5" most come with but no one seems to make one that big for under $1000 USD.
     
  3. OCMunkee

    OCMunkee Member

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    What food dehydrator would you suggest / have you used? I've been looking for one, but always end up stumbling into forums where people are choosing industrial size dehydrators for their produce
     
  4. OP
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    Aussiejuggalo

    Aussiejuggalo Member

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    I went on eBay and looked for mine, it was a Devanti 7 tray, works well and was cheap enough but can only fit 1 spool, also have to take the time to clip out the middle of a few of the trays. It doesn't have a digital read out though which would make it a lot easier to get the correct temp and verify the temp.

    I've seen some people get the big boxy square ones like 3D Printing Nerd has, mine was just the little round one.
     
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  5. CQGLHyperion

    CQGLHyperion Member

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    Because the larger the LCD with the same resolution makes the pixel size increase. Also increases the weight and amount of force required to release the layer from the FEP.

    10" screen @ 4K would be the go but wouldn't be cheap.
     
  6. tumutbound

    tumutbound Member

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    I picked up a cheap unit from Gumtree. No varaible temperature control, gets to about 70C before thermostat cuts in.
    I bought a cake cover from the local hospitality supplier for about $18 which gives enough room to fit the largest reel.
    It was necessady to cut out the centre of one of the plastic shellves to allow for air flow.
     

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    Last edited: Jul 17, 2019
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  7. arytel

    arytel Member

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    So I've parted with the $$$ for an Ender 5 which I'm now waiting patiently to arrive.
    Whilst I wait I was thinking about getting the recommended additions as per the pages here and online.

    From what I understand the main things to look at are a:
    Glass plate
    Stepper Motor smoother
    BL touch for leveling

    Is there anything else important I'm missing
     
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  8. OP
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    Aussiejuggalo

    Aussiejuggalo Member

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    You'll probably need smoothers, most Creality boards need them.
    The BLTouch isn't really a necessity, nice to have but it's also a bit of a pain to set up on the stock board.
    Glass plate shouldn't be needed unless the bed is really warped.

    If anything I'd suggest having a look at the Wham Bam instead of glass unless you want a really glossy smooth side to prints and or have a warped bed. The Wham Bam is a spring steel plate that's held on by a magnetic base, it makes removing prints much easier and if you don't want to use the PEX surface it comes with you can just stick a Creality sticker on the spring steel plate.

    Other than that... Quieter fans come to mind, maybe an upgraded hotend duct. I'm not sure what else the Ender 5 needs.
     
  9. rockofclay

    rockofclay Member

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    I wouldn't even bother with the stepper smoothers, it's questionable that they'll even do anything on the newer creality boards. If I were you I'd go straight new mainboard instead. I've just ordered a FYSETC Cheetah with the fancy pants new 2209 trinamics onboard. This gives you missed step detection (including sensorless homing) and much smoother/quieter stepper control. It's also 32 bit, with support for marlin 2.0.
     
  10. tumutbound

    tumutbound Member

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    • Stepper smoothers made a big difference to my print quality.
    • I found my bed wasn't completely flat so switched to printing on glass with hairspray (Cedel Extra Hold of course :).
    • Metal replacement extruder parts.
    I have a bltouch but not yet installed as going to glass compensates for the non-flat bed.
    I also have an MKS Gen L with TMC2208 drivers to install.

    Fan noise from the power supply is a problem I've yet to address.
    And of course a Raspberry Pi for Octoprint!
     
    Last edited: Jul 24, 2019
  11. rockofclay

    rockofclay Member

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    I've heard that the newer version of the creality boards don't need them. Do you know what board you have? When did you buy your printer.

    I found the build plate on my ender 3 (bought october last year) was fine. This is when they went from 3mm to 4mm aluminium. The bed however was not, and I think it's garbage. The surface is fine, but the plastic underneath wasn't flat. I did buy a glass bed and that worked wonders. I flipped it over from the patterned side and print directly on the glass with the finest of home brand hairspray.

    I've just recieved two spring steel+pei beds so we'll see how they go.

    The extruder on mine has been a big source of grief. Calibrating esteps was very inconsistent, as extruding 100mm of plastic would always have a large margin of error. I've noticed that recently the extruder arm (plastic) has worn from the natural filament path. I wouldn't bother with the all metal versions of the creality extruder though, as it's cheaper to go to a dual drive extruder.


    I did initially go a 3d touch (bltouch ripoff). It was utter garbage, with an sigma of ~1mm. I've switched to inductive and that seems to be good, but I still get inconsistencies depending on the bed temperature. I'm sure the genuine BLtouches are fine, but if I were to get one, I would definitely measure the error on it straight after installing.

    Nice, I was going to go down this path until the STM32 boards and 2209s came out. You'll have to let us know how the upgrade goes!

    Totally agree to these points! I'm about to upgrade to noctua fans. 12V though so they need a mosfet.
     
  12. tumutbound

    tumutbound Member

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    (got lost tying to include quotes from rockofclay's post, sorry )

    Got my Ender 5 in March, They do have a controller based on the TMC2208 which is much quieter but I don't know if it's included in new orders, probably still an add on .

    Metal extruder parts were only a few $$ and I've had no problems with it since installation. I do have a Bulldog extruder and E3D V6 hot end for which I'm designing a mount plate - must get back to that.

    Fans, other than the power supply, are quiet. I do have some replacements but as you say, a mosfet driver is required to run these from 12V. Plan is to include a couple of small DC-DC converters, one 12V for the replacement fans and one 5V to power the Raspberry Pi. I have a super-capacitor based UPS for the Pi so I can just remove power and it will shut down cleanly. To change the power supply fan will mean a destructive removal of the decal from the electronics enclosure and open up the power supply. Still searching for a source of 60mm, 24V quite fans.
     
    Last edited: Jul 24, 2019
  13. rockofclay

    rockofclay Member

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    Which supercap UPS did you go for? I've been looking for something like that.

    I've found the part cooling and hot end fan to be loud, but they've probably switched those on the ender 5. Thought about using a mosfet for the PS fan?

    Must get around to my microswiss and bed install.
     
  14. Butcher9_9

    Butcher9_9 Member

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    If you fine a cheap one let us know. Thats pretty much the last thing on my Ender 3 that is loud.

    My only regret about my Ender 3 is that I bought 2208s just before 2209s came out.
     
  15. Mathuisella

    Mathuisella Member

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    in your gearbox...grindin
    Possible to put in a 2nd 12v fan in series to make it a 24v load ?

    or maybe a resisitor ?

    or a zenor diode setup ?
     
  16. OP
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    Aussiejuggalo

    Aussiejuggalo Member

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    Why not just use a buck converter to run 12v fans on 24v?

    Be easier and quicker.
     
  17. Butcher9_9

    Butcher9_9 Member

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    Well its pretty hard to fit extra stuff inside the PSU (and more dangerous, mains voltage and all) and I dont want extra wires running in and out of the PSU.


    I added a second 12V Fan to the controller Box (off a buck converter) and the stock 24v Fan is currently running at 16V (Inline resistors) with a replacement 24v hot end Fan which shipped with the E3D hot end. Part cooling Fan can be PWM controlled so thats OK as is ( did replace it with a 5015).

    As a side note, I got ASB prints to work on my Ender3. Should be posted in the Ghetto thread :).

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jul 25, 2019
  18. arytel

    arytel Member

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    Also been searching this thread for recommended places for filament. Any suggestions?
     
  19. OP
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    Aussiejuggalo

    Aussiejuggalo Member

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    You can get eSun from Cubic Tech, Also X3D, based in Aus, they make there own filament as far as I know.
     
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  20. rockofclay

    rockofclay Member

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