Cheap 3D Printers?

Discussion in 'Hobby Engineering' started by Aussiejuggalo, Apr 25, 2015.

  1. tumutbound

    tumutbound Member

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    Thumbs up from me for eSun. I especially like their silk PLA

    Your photo of the new controller has made me feel guilty about not installing my MKS Gen L. Might do that tonight while waiting for Le Tour to start.
     
    Last edited: Jul 26, 2019
  2. rockofclay

    rockofclay Member

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    Yeah, I'm thinking the board will be on the shelf for a while for me too. The marlin version is still very new at the moment, and I'm about to go on to nightshift.

    Need to make sure I have the thing printing while I don't have time to work on it.

    Had another banggood gamble on a Creasee CS-10s on banggood. 420AUD (before GST) for a 24v CR10 dual z knockoff. Looks nice and ghetto!
     
  3. pelmen

    pelmen Member

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    Thats what I use, works great. I had to work out the tray heights to make two platforms to put two reels in at once, the other trays I cut out the tray section to make them ring spacers to get the clearance I needed then glued to make permanent and easy to my needs. So I think there is a base tray layer with a couple of rings for height then another tray with couple of rings then lid.
     
  4. arytel

    arytel Member

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    Ender-5 arrived yesterday and built it with the kids helping. which was good, too a bit longer than usual to build though.
    Did my first print of boaty, as per usual, however printing the calibration cube the cube got 25% through before becoming unstuck from the bed with the supplied 1.75mm PLA. Looking at what options I have to prevent this.

    Currently 2 Failed about 5mm on the z axis into the cube, haven't been able to determine how to increase the hot bed temperature in cura to allow adhesion in the first couple of layers.

    Otherwise impressed and plan to use this to canabilised my other printer to improve.
     
  5. CQGLHyperion

    CQGLHyperion Member

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    I'd clean and lube the Z axis lead screw and bearing rails to ensure it isn't catching on anything there.

    As for bed adhesion, good bed leveling is the best help, otherwise glue stick / blue tape work. Some move to a glass bed and use hair spray.
     
  6. tumutbound

    tumutbound Member

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    Level bed is definitely first thing to get right, also make sure the bed surface is squeaky clean. I went with 3mm glass pretty much from the start which also takes care of the non flat bed I have. Cedel Extra Hold hairspray is the stuff to use.
    As standard, Cura allows you to change the first layer temperature for extruder and bed. Just search for Temperature under Print Settings - be sure to select all options as visible. If you need to adjust it for more than the first layer, you need to used the Edit G-Code option under Extensions.
     
  7. arytel

    arytel Member

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    Cheers guys, relevelled the bed and up the bed temp to 60°C which has made a difference. I had a slight bow in the centre which seems to be a common problem, but I'll see how that effects my current print, I might have to look at a glass bed.
     
  8. CQGLHyperion

    CQGLHyperion Member

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    Edit: Wrong thread.
     
  9. nibennett

    nibennett Member

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    3D fillies is my go to for filament locally. Really happy with their PLA, silk PLA, And PetG. Gone through around 20 rolls of that in the 16 months I’ve had my original prusa. I’ve only had 2 rolls of their abs but happy with that as well.

    I’ve also had a bunch of more expensive stuff from overseas. Some rolls of Prusament (Galaxy silver and Galaxy Black) when I ordered some spares from Prusa for my MK3 + MMU2, some filamentium CPE for a little more temperature resistance than PETG (And a colour I used when I did all the printed parts for the bear and Bondtech BMG upgrade for my Prusa.)
     
  10. DanMack

    DanMack Member

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    Hello all,
    Looking at a purchase over the next couple of months. Primary use is to print parts to be cleaned up a little and used as masters for making molds for casting. As close to smooth as possible would be best.
    Pretty tight budget but can make it stretch if required.
    Thinking of one of the entry SLA's to begin with.

    Anycubic Photon - People seem to have a good experience with them overall, and they seem to be the cheapest available

    Anycubic Photon s - Upgraded model? is it worth the extra $$

    Wanhao Duplicator 7 - Some board members have them and sound to have have had success, seem to be a bit dearer.

    Elegoo Mars - Hard to find, seems to be very good machine.

    As I have the time I can sit back and keep an eye on prices. Any recommended price points? I will get to know the pricing over time but I would hate to miss a deal because i wasn't up to speed yet.

    Also from what I can gather, places to watch are:
    Gearbest
    Aliexpress
    Direct from manufacturer
    ebay


    Down the track I will probably grab an FDM for a bigger build volume.
    Looking at ender 3 pro / ender 5 for those

    Any recommendations? don't want to go over the $1k mark, and the less i spend on the printer the more i have for consumables and some other purchases.
     
  11. RyoSaeba

    RyoSaeba Member

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    I've got a Wanhao D7 and have had excellent experience with it. I print mainly 1/6 scale stuff. The arc reactor is 3cm across and about 4cm tall. The orb is about 2cm across.
    upload_2019-8-26_18-34-26.png upload_2019-8-26_18-35-25.png
     
    Varg and millen like this.
  12. OP
    OP
    Aussiejuggalo

    Aussiejuggalo Member

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    I've got the Photon, it's pretty good for the price although I haven't printed with it for months, people complained about the smell :mad:. The Photon S has the better z axis, LED matrix and "upgraded" fume exhaust (which just dumps the smell out of the printer :rolleyes:). Both are good but I'm not 100% sure if the S is worth it, tempted to get one just to see but that wont be for a while.

    Not so sure about the Wanhao. The Elegoo is getting some good reviews but I'm pretty sure you can only get it from Amazon USA (which doesn't ship to Aus anyway).

    Just remember with the LCD resin printers, you'll be changing the LCD and that can get expensive quick if you print heaps.
     
  13. RyoSaeba

    RyoSaeba Member

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    Try putting a pack of activated charcoal near the exhaust to see if it would reduce the smell. Things that they use in water filter. It's supposed to absorb smell. I use water washable resins from Wanhao and the smell is not too bad. I can sit next to it and do work as long as there's airflow in the house like windows opened.
     
  14. CQGLHyperion

    CQGLHyperion Member

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    Photon is a great machine. The S version probably isn't worth the extra, but you can easily add a dual linear rail for the z-axis to photon for extra cost.

    Activated charcoal filters are apparently the way to go. Planning on getting a setup on my printer in due course.

    In other news I purchased an I3 Mega S. Added a Bltouch straight up and got it going nice. Better drivers are on the way.
     
  15. RyoSaeba

    RyoSaeba Member

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    Doing some commisioned work at 1/6 scale on the Wanhao D7.
    upload_2019-9-9_14-8-55.png upload_2019-9-9_14-9-22.png
     
  16. elcarter1

    elcarter1 Member

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    If you've had a 3d printer before and now have a proton (Resin) for the fine stuff.

    What would you recommend FDM wise to tackle the bigger stuff in 2019?
     
  17. m3k

    m3k Member

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    as an idiotic self proclaimed fdm expert
    if money is no object i would get an up box because its hella reliable prints any material fine due to the replaceable print heads and it has a HEPA filter great idiot proof software and is enclosed to keep prying hands out and sound in

    the zortrax m200 /plus is great too but youre mostly limited to ABS and unless u buy the enclosed version it will get stinky printing abs

    the only downside with these is its difficult to tinker with - if u are more of a
    DIY person and appreciate opensource I would get a Original Prusa mk3s because its reliable and effortless and even if the print quality isn't the best its got thermal runaway protection on the firmware out of the box and has a good community and quality wiring unlike the rest of the Chinese printers -_- i wouldent recommend those to print overnight

    if you have smoke alarms and an extinguisher and or can be bothered to mess with firmware to fix thermal runaway and or print cable strain releif and or upgrade thickness of heatbed cables etc, have a nonflamable workarea and know what youre doing- you should just get somthing cheap and chineese like one of the creality printers :p

    never buy the anet a8 whenever i see a burned down printer 9/10 times its an anet a8 lol
     
    Last edited: Sep 16, 2019
  18. elcarter1

    elcarter1 Member

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    I was pretty sure this was the one after doing some reseach and then you mentioend it again. I was a little disapinted when I noticed the price was over 1K so adds duty and gst. Printer cost gets close to $1400.
    As it's open source any way of purchasing items individually and effectively ending up with the MK3 or something better?

    Happy to tinker so was considering something like this;

    https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Prusa-i...238235?hash=item1efff4965b:g:o8cAAOSwXFldVNND

    No doubt needs some decent extruder's ect.
     
    Last edited: Sep 16, 2019
  19. m3k

    m3k Member

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    its worth the money unfortunately man. were talking about the right hardness rated metals and bearings for the rods down to the really well designed firmware and strong magnets used to hold down the build plate down to the custom made auto bed leveling probe the quality hotend that can print almost all materials etc etc
    its just worth the money.

    and i mean that in - by the time u get that kit the same u might have saved 200 odd bucks- but you're now out of pocket ur no.1 asset- Time and alot of it

    youre right about the price sucking though. its a shame that whole VAT stuff etc

    ud think buying opensoruce stuff would make the same printer but better but they do source their materials in bulk

    Thomas saslalalallamander made a youtube video about making a prusa clone- and it ended up sucking comparatively i think you could do a better job if u can build stuff well but theres alot going on- i mean whats annying to me is he used CAT5e cable or somthing for the wiring which i think is pretty iresponsable especially for heater/heatbed because you should be using silicone coated wires with lots of fine stranded tinned copper

    if i was on a strict budget id just end up buying a cheaper creality printer and replacing the board with a duet wifi and tuning it correctly - but just keep in mind if u dont know what your doing ur potentually making a fire hazard - i mean most these chineese kits are kinda firehazards in their own right-

    i hear of even the latest crealitys having burned heatbed terminals all the time or burned up wires

    often what happens is the connection terminals burn up and nobody gets hurt -because hopefully they have self-extinguishing PCBs and terminals but some of the cheaper kits literally go up in flames

    now if ur going to monitor your printer during 8 hour prints or keep your printer in a place in which it burns down and nothing gets hurt id say just get the cheaper kits

    but IMO it really takes the fun out of hitting print and walking away when u cant trust your bot- and none of these printers even have thermal fuses or anything advance- we still just rely on software to stop the printers from melting down which is stupid imo - and they dont even use dual thermistors incase one starts failing or mis-lodges itself

    like even the wires have to be made to do repeat bending etc
    and rarely do they even meet specification IMO

    honestly its kinda exaggerated - i mean theres alot of similarities to buying a cheap PSU and having that blue magic smoke vs a burned case - except most cases are enclosed metal so its less risky- theres not a spool of flamable plastic hanging off the printer in open air

    one of the main reasons i trust the prsua so much is his print farm- just look at howmany run as workhorses practically 24/7 printing parts for itself.

    feel free to get one of the creality printers- or wanhao printers just be warned that they have been known to have thermal runaway issues and poor cable strain releif on the heated bed and other important parts- so you can DIY fix these if ur savvy and get a fairly reliable printer- but unfortunatly the prusa will just be more of a workhorse printer in the end of the day due to the ease of use down to the components and firmware etc etc

    if u get a wanhao or creality pop a microswiss on it and try to mitigate fire risks with fixed firmware and cable strain relief !
     
    Last edited: Sep 16, 2019
  20. Butcher9_9

    Butcher9_9 Member

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    If you don't want to spend a lot you really have to be willing to put in some effort otherwise get ready to pony up.

    Take something like an Ender 3, its can pretty much be turned into a Mk3 (less the quality rails) for about $100-180 above the base cost of the printer which I have seen going for as low as $230Inc.

    SKR Mini E3 has some of the best steppers out there, 2209s (Solves the Thermal protection, print speed, upgrade ability and Noise in one hit for like $50)
    Cloned Bondtech dual direct drive + E3D all metal hot end (Lower Retractions, easy use of flexibles)
    BL Touch - Another $50 if you want a good one or if you are OK with a slower Auto Level a $15 Clone.
    Glass or Better magnetic bed (Glass very cheap if you just cut your own)
    If you are worried like M3K is then maybe a bunch of crimp connectors, some Silicon wire and some time remaking all of the heated component wiring main PSU wiring.

    Might set you back like $400 total but its a lot of work. Took me 3 months of waiting for parts and printing parts / wiring, tuning setting . If that time is worth $1000 then the Prusa is the way to go and you get support too boot as well and better quality steppers and rods.
     
    Last edited: Sep 18, 2019

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