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Cheap 3D Printers?

Discussion in 'Hobby Engineering' started by Aussiejuggalo, Apr 25, 2015.

  1. OP
    OP
    Aussiejuggalo

    Aussiejuggalo Member

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    It depends on what you print, if you print it solid or hollow etc. Remember if the vat holds 125ml (like the Photon) but your print is 120ml you'll have to refill half way through.
     
  2. RyoSaeba

    RyoSaeba Member

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    Regardless of printers you'll get the hang of the quirks soon enough. If the item to be printed is bigger than the printable area, then you'll have to cut it. Eventually you'll learn how to orientate, cut, join etc the model. There are lots of guides and suggestions, but there's no hard rules. Just find a way you do your own things. With resin printing there's no need to have infilling. You can find software to hollow out models so you can save on resins. But there are also things like you need to remember to put some holes in your model so the excess resin can flow out again. I've been doing 1/6 scale props for collectors and the printer paid for itself.
     
  3. ni9ht_5ta1k3r

    ni9ht_5ta1k3r Member

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    TBH I am ok with jumping into the deep end though the tough bits would be getting the resin, the IPA, and probably the filters for filtering the resin.

    The only thing I don't like is the potential smell from the resin. I was gonna stick it in my room but the potential smell might be a) annoying, and b) potentially health hazard.

    Feel free to correct me :D
     
    Last edited: Nov 9, 2019
  4. RyoSaeba

    RyoSaeba Member

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    In short yes. You are correct. However there are options. I use Wanhao water washable clear resins which you can buy from AliExpress. They're around $120 AUD delivered per litre. It doesn't require IPA for cleaning. You can rinse out the print under running water and then clean it in an ultrasonic cleaner to remove the harder to reach pool of resins. It also has a very low odour in comparison with resins with pigments or ones that need to be cleaned with IPA. But it still smell. It's not easy to remove the smell. There are some options out there for this too. Some people are trying to mount activated charcoal filters on their printers to filter out the smell as much as possible. I've not tried this so I can't say how well it works. I have my printer in a room further from where I normally am so the smell doesn't bother me.

    Resin is also toxic so you will need gloves. I reuse my gloves until they break so 100 pair will last a very long time.
     
  5. ni9ht_5ta1k3r

    ni9ht_5ta1k3r Member

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    if i do get one, i may need y'all guys help :D
     
  6. RyoSaeba

    RyoSaeba Member

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    Get a larger ultrasonic cleaner. 2L capacity is good but at minimum 1L. I only got a 750ml one, it's fine most of the time because most of my prints are pretty small, but for my larger prints it does have problem covering them.
     
  7. ni9ht_5ta1k3r

    ni9ht_5ta1k3r Member

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    so you just use resin to join 2 resin parts?
     
  8. OP
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    Aussiejuggalo

    Aussiejuggalo Member

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    Yeah you can use resin to glue parts together, as long as it's see through or the UV can actually hit it. If it doesn't 100% cure it'll crack.
     
  9. ni9ht_5ta1k3r

    ni9ht_5ta1k3r Member

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    so 2 black coloured pieces is a no go... for example?
     
  10. OP
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    Aussiejuggalo

    Aussiejuggalo Member

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    As far as I know, no that probably wont work but I haven't tried it with anything but clear.
     
  11. RyoSaeba

    RyoSaeba Member

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    The UV light won't be able to penetrate the black resin to cure the joint. Just use superglue if that's the case or wood glue. Clear resin is also great for using as putty. If you have a cracked part, just drip carefully apply some uncured resin in the crack and shine a UV light on it. It will cure and you can then sand it down to fix the part. It's incredibly versatile.
     
  12. ni9ht_5ta1k3r

    ni9ht_5ta1k3r Member

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    would an epoxy glue work?
     
  13. OP
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    Aussiejuggalo

    Aussiejuggalo Member

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    Epoxy works. I've also used Weld-On 16 which is for acrylic (works great for PLA as well) and it works fine as well.
     
  14. ni9ht_5ta1k3r

    ni9ht_5ta1k3r Member

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    okkie, time to make a shopping list of stuff haha

    EDIT: how do you tint a clear resin with a pigment? like when do you do add the pigment?
     
    Last edited: Nov 10, 2019
  15. RyoSaeba

    RyoSaeba Member

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    I just paint them after print. You can try adding some drops of colour into the vat, but it will mean the whole thing will be tinted and there will be excess. Or you can use Monocure resins which does have colour pigments you can buy separately to tint the resins with. Again same thing, your whole vat will be that colour and each time you change colour, you should re-calibrate the printer to the resin so it prints properly. Otherwise you may get into situations with under/over curing.

    Just saw this:
    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/328...chweb0_0,searchweb201602_7,searchweb201603_52
    Combined with cashreward programs etc it gets pretty cheap.
     
    Last edited: Nov 11, 2019
  16. RyoSaeba

    RyoSaeba Member

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    An example of adding colour to clear resin. I printed these bottles completely clear and solid. They're about 10mm tall only. It's 1/6 scale potion bottle for Witcher action figure. I then drilled the top and bottom and hollowed out the whole thing so there's a hole going from top to bottom, with the bottom hole being bigger. Then I plugged the top with a piece of bamboo and wiped a tiny amount of clear resin over the top and inside of the bottle and shine a UV light on it to seal the top. Then I added Tamiya clear blue acrylic hobby paint to a small amount of clear resin mixed it and dripped it back into the bottom of the bottle and filled it and shined UV light on it to harden it. Finally I added a tiny amount of clear at the bottom to finish it off. So it appears there's actually blue liquid inside a clear bottle. This method is longer but gives a better appearance. I could've simply painted clear blue outside and that would've worked too, but down side is external paint can be scratch off. Also this method is more an experiment at this stage. A proof of concept.

    upload_2019-11-11_20-34-42.png
     
  17. ni9ht_5ta1k3r

    ni9ht_5ta1k3r Member

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    Like I want a smoke grey to a clear resin is all i mean.

    EDIT: DANG IT! The 3D printer i was looking at is outta stock... oof!
     
    Last edited: Nov 12, 2019
  18. RyoSaeba

    RyoSaeba Member

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    You can get transparent grey resin from various manufacturers I believe. But resins are expensive. Typically around $100 a liter. So normally you wouldn't have that many different colours lying around like say FDM filaments. Which is why I only buy clear resin and paint it as required. Only problem is because it's clear, if I build a model with LEDs in them, I have to "light proof" the inside before final assembly so the light doesn't leak everywhere.This is not an issue with solid colour obviously. But it's pretty easy to just coat the inside with a layer of black acrylic paint.
     
  19. ni9ht_5ta1k3r

    ni9ht_5ta1k3r Member

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    I am liking the Kelant S400 3D resin printer as an alternative to the flyingbear shine (which is now sold out and possibly discontinued) but I need more info like what apps to use for setting up supports and slicing.
     
    Last edited: Nov 14, 2019
  20. larszoe

    larszoe Member

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    Yeah I think you'd have to join the FB group and ask. I think for that printer, people use Chitubox or PrusaSlicer.

    Here's another one that I've found that's similar to the Kelant, even taller for a little more money. Not the best review but looks like it gets pretty decent prints. Looks like it has a really small user base though.
     

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