Cheap 3D Printers?

Discussion in 'Hobby Engineering' started by Aussiejuggalo, Apr 25, 2015.

  1. garfield2k

    garfield2k Member

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    glass bed is nice but PEI is much better. found everything sticks to it nicely and releases easily.
     
  2. TheWedgie

    TheWedgie Insert Custom Title Here

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    Just ordered a v2 from banggood... $380 delivered.
     
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  3. m3k

    m3k Member

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    always when it comes to cheap printers- double check connectors- Strain relief on the bed ferrule connections on the mainboard- If u have access to a FLIR inspect any part of the wiring that gets hot before the actual heat bed when under 100% duty cycle- be sure to ensure no bottlenecks that may start a fire

    most these new printers are ok but they can lack on the strain relief and dont have the best fire-retardant or temperature resistant wiring. almost none use proper silicone insulation and proper fine multi stranding so as the printer gets used excessively just keep an eye on it - best case scenario during a failure it just acts like a fuse at a pinch point and burns out- worse case - anet A8 crap allover again
     
    Last edited: Feb 18, 2021
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  4. theSeekerr

    theSeekerr Member

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    Yeah, the Creality's are all pretty bad about this, Ender and CR-s alike. No ferrules on the mainboard connections. Worse, solder-tinned wires in screw terminals which is a terrible practice, much safer to leave the strands loose if you aren't going to use a proper ferrule....
     
  5. cvidler

    cvidler Member

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    I've got a knock off CR10 (a Tevo Torando), and a genuine CR10S Pro v2. the pro is much better put together, to the point, I've only done upgrades to it (quieter fans, lighting, direct drive and hotend), no 'fixes' required.
     
  6. theSeekerr

    theSeekerr Member

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    And what did you find when you unscrewed the hotend connections? I'm guessing tinned wires. It's subtle, but it's bad practice.
     
  7. m3k

    m3k Member

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    if u look at what prusa, zortrax, up, etc to do to meet regulations the terminations are far more professional and reliable- crealitys tinning and crimping isn't good practice and can lead to burned connectors over time- granted most these connectors are fire retardant plastics so they tend to self extinguish and then creality sells the user a replacement pcb and calls it a day lol
    the correct way is using the ferrules mentioned by theseekerr

    this is totally a cost cutting option cuz ferrules at that mass numbers can add $$, granted i remember some of them coming with ferrules as of late specifically because of user complaints.

    either way its an easy fix- Just buy a bag of ferrules- re-terminate the connectors and clamp them back down- takes a total of 20 minutes

    the worst was when creality CRIMPED xt60 connectors to the bed- those bullet connectors are supposed to be soldered not crimped- this was probably a time saving thing- Also the xt60s were knockoff xt60's that did not carry the full 60 amps due to thinner metals being used the whole thing was a sh** show and they burned up within the first week of people using the printers.

    anyway my point is these printers can print overnight next to flammable things and potentially hurt/risk lives and so like respect must be given where its due- taking the time to double down on the safty is important especially when half the time the firmware doesn't even have thermal runaway protection. and its not like if a mosfet fails thermal runaway cutoff on the firmware would do anything- the mosfets 99% fail closed and just deliver the full powersupply juice down the wires.

    sheeet half the psus are so under-rated that they literally only let the gcode heat the nozzle OR the bed not both at the same time as not to overload the powersupply /dc input on the mainboard which barely has the correct amount of copper tracing to deliver the correct amps without heat loss also- which once again has the chance of burning up. they combat this by increasing voltage which is good- so the new boards run at 24v

    idk man- cheap printers give me the heebie jeebies especially when i run mine for days at a time, so... not in my house. Nope.

    and then i could go on about the EM suppression that should be taking place to not get incorrect thermistor readings from pwm interference etc. or just data corruptions when printing via serial like over octoprint etc. u know with correct signal wires twisting and running through ferrite beads- just stuff i do as good practice that doesn't take long when i build my own printers. but literally allows me to sleep at night.
     
    Last edited: Feb 18, 2021
  8. TheWedgie

    TheWedgie Insert Custom Title Here

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    Well, just bought a FLIR ONE Pro... oops. Bit cheaper than RRP off eBay though.

    Spending the overtime as quickly as I’m doing it :lol:
     
  9. m3k

    m3k Member

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    its incredibly useful !
     
  10. iMomOx3

    iMomOx3 Member

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  11. theSeekerr

    theSeekerr Member

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    Crikey, what a ripoff. Paying good money to go from an awful Mk8 extruder to an awful Mk8 extruder, but with more metal parts? Yeah nah. Buy a clone Bondtech, or at least a clone Titan, and be done with it.
     
  12. garfield2k

    garfield2k Member

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    should of gotten at least the dual gear one, but agree better to have spent it on a clone bmg or bmg gears and plenty of printable extruders that use those gears.
     
  13. tumutbound

    tumutbound Member

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    I got metal replacement for the Creality extruder for about $8! I recently bought a Orbiter extruder and some Capricorn PTFE tube or so I thought. What I got was Capricornus brand and it was red.
    As soon as I get my new computer sorted, it's back to upgrading the ender 5.
     
  14. .Radiant

    .Radiant Member

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    Anyone mucked around with the Voxelab Polaris? $185 on amazon at the moment, figure for that price it's worth dipping my toes in
     
  15. shineon

    shineon Member

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    I recently had to replace the nozzle assembly of my UP plus 2, 8 years old, and about 30kg of filament used, so has been good overall. Although much better at a lower price available on the market now.
     
  16. .Radiant

    .Radiant Member

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    Well... pulled the trigger :D

    [​IMG]

    On the bigger brother though (Proxima). $225 delivered.
     
  17. .Radiant

    .Radiant Member

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    So the levelling function on this printer doesn't actually save the current Z state (not sure if it's just mine), had to improvise a bit and levelled the build plate by physically moving it up in the ball joint with a piece of paper folded over a couple times. Took awhile to figure it out but I finally got there:

    [​IMG]

    Just have to figure out the supports/AA, supports were too heavy in this case and lychee's AA solution oversmoothed things
     
  18. Franc

    Franc Member

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    I bought an ULEFONE Armour 9 which has one built in, the IR cameras are occasionally pretty handy.

    I bought another SV03, bltouch is faulty and they are sending me another one without a fight after a little bit of back and forth. Still would recommend them given the quality of the parts and the price for such a large printer (350 x 350 x 400 m)

    https://www.ozbargain.com.au/node/597227
     
  19. m3k

    m3k Member

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    thermal cameras are great for diagnosing issues- and avoiding overheating - even with ur computer just checking out the hottest components to add more airflow to is smart

    with 3d printers u can tell if ur wires are not thick enough because as you use them they will heat up- if they go over ambient its not really a big deal but if they get seriously warm ur getitng losses over the wire and also there is risk of melting/fire etc

    same goes with plugs and solder joints- so a good once over with the thermal camera is important. remember if something is shiny and reflective like metal- itl also just reflect stuff in your room and give u a false reading- if u need an accurate reading - paint it with some black acrylic paint and it'l read accurately after that
     
    Last edited: Mar 23, 2021
  20. OP
    OP
    Aussiejuggalo

    Aussiejuggalo Member

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    So what slicer is everyone using for FDM? Finally got a new board for the Ender 3 (old one went bang thanks to a loose screw :rolleyes:) so figured I'd give this thing one more go.
     

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