Discussion in 'Extreme and Water Cooling' started by juzz86, Jun 8, 2019.
Not sure how I missed this, really nice work.
AH it snuck in under the RADAR a bit mate, but thankyou very much!
nice man, I am running roughly the same atm, 35c water & low 20's ambient. Cant, sucktion (& buubles) suk sumtimes!? bastards wont fill but a trickle!!
Quick update for the old girl - still running well, got a nice set of PWM Noctua Redux fans on the controller - ramping as expected and nice and quiet.
I've topped the coolant out at 37C at a 26C ambient over summer - happy with that, too. I sold the 980Ti and picked up a lovely 1080Ti with a Phanteks waterblock - very nice, lovely looking bit of kit.
Also got a bit handy and replaced the plexi roof window with tempered glass, now for some lights:
I like it so much, I think I'll do the side panels too. Maybe do something with the front - perhaps the front off a Core V1 and an RGB fan. Dunno.
get a backplate for the GPU
Why not both?
Actually to be honest mate I think they only introduced backplates at 2xxx series.
And with a bit of light:
Total cost for the windowing (including adhesive) was about $60. Not a bad result!
Great job in a small space! window panel looks very well fitted, nice under glow, how did you acquire and cut (glass)?
Thanks old mate.
Rubber U Trim
Tempered Glass Shelf 20x20cm
Loctite Glass Adhesive
Cut away the mounts for the plexi window and grind down the ~2mm lip around the cutout. Edge the cutout with U Trim and glue corners to keep it flat. Then adhesive the underside of the U Trim and clamp the glass to it overnight. Cut away the adhesive seepage next day with a razor blade, polish the glass and she's done.
That crowd sell a few different sizes of glass shelf. They're 8mm thick, so take that into account when you measure - I had to grind a bit of case away as the glass went on crooked and I couldn't seat the top panel by a couple of mm.
Glass is rated for 15kg, adhesive is rated for 60kg. It's a very tight weld, done a top job
Won't show you the underside of the lid
Very cool looking ITX there! Great build log, and inspirational. LOVE the look of that ZMT
Thanks mate. I see you're CADding up your new build over there too. Can't go wrong with ZMT if you're after the 'industrial hose' look - ties in nicely with a lot of fitting finishes, too.
This is awesome juzz...definitely going ZMT if I change tubing one day.
Thanks mate, yes it's very nice. Rubber too, so no plasticiser leaching!
Looks great Juzz your understating how much work to get it looking good, very tidy desk as well
Thankyou mate. I'm very happy with it.
I've got some no-name Chinese hard tubing, fittings and whatnot coming for it - I will try my hand at bending again and see how we go! Just the inside - outside stays rubber. But I'm keen to cut in a drain tap underneath the reservoir, and put a level sensor on the reservoir so I know when it needs topping off. Not sure whether to go with sensors there, or route the actual res up onto the desktop - I have the space to do that. See what takes my fancy at the time I guess
How do those level sensors work are they just a float and 3 way switch or something more technical, I saw them while looking for water temp sensors.So now Its together your going to pull it apart again lol.
I've got this one, which is a very basic solid-state sensor and relay. It'd replace the float switch in a make up system, like you say mate
With a solid-state one you get a bit more flexibility without needing a PLC - the controller's built-in. This particular one gives you a three-level (low, mid, high) LED display, and the relay would be used to fire a pump for automatic make-up of water level, to high. If you look at the first picture in the listing you'll see that the sensor PCB (the one with the strips cut out) has four sets of pads along it. As the water makes a conductivity bridge between the pads, a LED lights. As the water level rises the next LED lights up, and so on.
There's lots of variations of the same simple circuit - I was after a LED array for level (rather than just true/false) and this one seemed to fit the bill. I'll have to get it out and use it though - I've never tried it!
It also needs 5V, so I'll probably have to get a Buck Converter or wire in a 5V plugpack to get it happy, as the rest of the system is 12V.
Oh of course, I'm ready to add some further work to her
What about those ARGB or whatever there calling them are'nt they 5v. we've got level switches on the spray pumps at work, they just turn the pump off b4 it's empty, same principle as you described just two probes connected by the liquid in the pump shuts down when the circuit breaks. Should get the boys some leds so they know how its going. If the pump has material and it stops spraying, air bubble or blockage. I,m going to put that other Rad in the top still undecided between 420 and 360, I've done the measurements on the 420 need a 30mm or thinner it will fit, might have to take out the exhaust fan or not its close, fans are expensive, I've got 2x ML140s or if I go 360 I've got 2 Gentle Typhoons never 3 of the same type lol , EK has some cheap Varders in both sizes but I wont be running them fast, noise, though the corsairs are not exactly quiet at full tilt