Discussion in 'Electronics & Electrics' started by trackhappy, Feb 23, 2013.
I'm just going to leave this here.
Yeah, gotta have a very steady hand for that level of SMD soldering.
Actually I was surprised by how forgiving the process is. Even fairly large (relatively speaking) alignment issues were sorted out by the solder pulling the component into place.
Been soldering without flux, will I be getting better results buying a flux pen to help?
been building quads/drones
Large stuff (wiring/connectors)? there will be enough flux in your solder if you are using a good one, if its not maybe some gel flux. Likely though you are not getting things hot enough, lots of thermal mass on many drone parts.
Flux pen good, flux gel in syringe even better. More precise application and it sticks where you apply it better than the liquid flux in the pens.
Gives you a good start to effectively get some heat into a high-thermal-mass joint, so you end up spending less time heat-soaking your components.
Only problem is the residue it leaves behind, but that is easily dealt with by acetone or any other similar solvent (CRC contact cleaner etc.).
Get a "no-clean" flux and you can simply ignore it if you're more concerned with function than appearance.
hey guys how hard is this to move the main controller w/ integrated bios chip to the new hdd board I purchased or is anyone willing to do this for a fee.
Is that a WD board?
Hi Mathew yes it is.I have a new board from ayam data recovery, WD5000AAJS-32YFA0 2060-701477-002 REV A.
I think I have a few.
I already have the new board. I need the controller chip swapped.
It is very much doable, you'll want a hot air rework station to do the job.
If you're desperate I could, but it wouldn't be done quickly.
I have till aug 6th to have it done. pm me.
That’s a 5-10 minute job at most.
Looking at getting a hot air station to simply some stuff im doing, especially as they seem to have come down a lot in price.
Currently my Goot RX711 is still soldiering (or is that soldering) along, so im thinking a standalone hot air station is the go.
Any recommendations at a hobby level?
Seen this thread?
Thought I'd drop this in here to stop the hot air station thread going off-topic.
I'm an amateur and do most of my soldering on manufactured PCBs (as opposed to home-made), but I was under the impression that 300°C wasn't particularly hot for an iron temperature? Just wondering what people who have a bit more experience in the field use for their irons/hot air stations. I know that the answer varies depending on the tip, component, and solder composition (among other things), but what are your rules of thumb?
I have mine set somewhere between 300 and 350, depending on the tip used. Fat tips can be run cooler as there is more thermal mass that will maintain the temperature better, thinner ones I run a bit hotter.
I have never killed a chip from heating them for too long, 350C hot air blasting for minutes at a time. Unless there were some extra big warnings for something special, I completely ignore any specs in datasheets on heating times.