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Consolidated Soldering and Rework thread

Discussion in 'Electronics & Electrics' started by trackhappy, Feb 23, 2013.

  1. Mjollnir

    Mjollnir Member

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    pbjabba and Agg like this.
  2. Recharge

    Recharge Member

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    it's magic I swear!
     
  3. mtma

    mtma Member

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    Lol I was just being shown this.

    It came up that even with normal soldering onto things that aren't usually going to take solder like Aluminium, by rubbing the hot iron tip into the surface it breaks up inter-layers allowing your solder to bond to the base. So I guess that's where the ultrasonic part really comes from.
     
  4. Mjollnir

    Mjollnir Member

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    Quality of the joints look terrible though, wouldnt trust it to last long term.
     
  5. merlin13

    merlin13 Member

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    's funny - with his home-rolled solder recipe he says pretty well the same thing in the video...
     
  6. SpaceFrog

    SpaceFrog Member

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    I have the same soldering iron. broke it out to solder my first keyboard. [​IMG]

    Came into this thread looking for advice on desoldering tools. I bought a cheap solder sucker from Jaycar the other day, and it's next to useless.

    I need something to desolder and solder the smd 3030 RGB LEDs and also a 4 pin connector. I had desoldered the 4 pin connector for one of the OLED displays and it took an hour, and then the display still wouldn't turn on. Probably got too much heat or I bent something. The solder sucker wouldn't remove enough solder, and it was a tight fit to begin with. I just applied heat to two or three pins at a time and wiggled it out.

    I used 300 degrees for the LEDs, Only one of them would turn. It seems people recommend 220 to 270. My 60/40 solder kinda works at 270, but nothing lower. Is there anything better? the keyboard designer shows his technique for soldering to the rear of the LEDs, but not for the underglow LEDs.

    also going to get a new tip or two, have a pointed tip, i hear flat ones are better all round, and concave ones can help with smd reflow work.
     
  7. _zak

    _zak Member

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    Do you have flux and solder braid/wick? I find both absolutely essential for SMD work. The type of flux is a matter of preference, although I prefer gel flux as it can hold components in place while you're working.

    When it comes to removing pin headers, they can be a real pain. If destroying the header (and then replacing it) is an option, the technique in this video can be handy.

    SMD LEDs are generally much more sensitive to heat than other components. My technique is to flow solder onto one pad, then heat it to melting, and push the LED into position with tweezers. It'll 'stick' to the molten solder by surface tension, and then you can quickly (2-3 s) position it make sure it's straight. After that, put flux on all the pads (including the one you started with) and work your way around each of the remaining pads before reflowing the first one.
     
  8. SpaceFrog

    SpaceFrog Member

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    Bought flux for this project. Don't have braid. Haven't had much success with it in the past. This is the first time using flux and I'm liking it. Does the braid work better with flux?
     
  9. dirtyd

    dirtyd Member

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    Adding flux never hurts. Braid is usually impregnated with some flux or rosin. When using braid, it can help to 'wet' the braid with some solder first. It seems counter intuitive to add solder when you're trying to remove it, but it helps the 'wetting' process, to get the solder flowing.
     

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