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Consolidated Soldering and Rework thread

Discussion in 'Electronics & Electrics' started by trackhappy, Feb 23, 2013.

  1. LostBenji

    LostBenji Member

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    A lot of the units you find on eBay are HAKO knock-offs' and use the same parts and tips.

    I have used a few and quality is actually pretty good for the money and when you get one that comes with 10-20 tips (in HAKO bags ????), you do the maths in buying HAKO tips elsewhere.
     
  2. OP
    OP
    trackhappy

    trackhappy Member

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    Skip to 17:40.



    The only tips I've really used are conical tips and what he says does seem to be true, hence why I want to use a chisel tip.

    I'll get to ordering the HobbyKing unit in the next couple of days. Hoping it's not gonna be too horrible, but it's better than nothing and I currently have a few boards that need recapping. :thumbup:
     
  3. TERRA Operative

    TERRA Operative Member

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    Yeah, get a fine chisel tip. The HK one comes with a really small pointy conical tip which is too fine for anything larger than SMD work.
     
  4. RussellK

    RussellK Member

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    By god - does that guy mainline Red Bull or something before he starts shooting?
     
  5. TERRA Operative

    TERRA Operative Member

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    Welcome to the EEVBlog. :lol:

    That's just him ALL the time...
     
  6. Symon

    Symon Castigat ridendo mores

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    So in other words you are trying to supplement for your lack of ability by trying a different type of tip?

    Conicals are not 'rubbish' as you said earlier. If Dave says that he prefers chisels that's his preference. I personally have conicals and chisels and don't really have a preference for either. They both work fine.
     
  7. OP
    OP
    trackhappy

    trackhappy Member

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    If it isn't lack of ability that causes a soldering iron to not be able to desolder a slightly oxidized capacitor no matter what technique I try, then what could it be?

    I just don't believe that the tip that came with the 20/130W iron I had could transfer enough heat to the joint. It just didn't want to melt it. That soldering iron was hopeless no matter how many soldering guides I followed and no matter what I tried.
     
  8. LostBenji

    LostBenji Member

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    Can we move off tip (penis) size and shape, if it is too small then give it Viagra or swap dick/hand. The little PoS iron from Jayar are just that, a PoS, far from the rated power and they have really shitty heat coupling to the penis in question.
    Please, stop using them as a reference.

    A good HAKO (or knock-off) with 50-60W and lead-free rated tips (small chisel or conical) will do 90% of work, move to the tiny 0.9 or 0.5mm conical for SMD work or use hot-air.
     
  9. Symon

    Symon Castigat ridendo mores

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    ^^^ +1 to what he said ^^^
     
  10. OP
    OP
    trackhappy

    trackhappy Member

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    OK, I thought tips did make up a significant part of the iron, as that's what ultimately transfers heat to the part.

    Anyway, do you think the HobbyKing one will be adequate for recapping/general through-hole/some SMD work, or should I get something a little less cheap?

    For the price it seems I can't go that wrong, and it is 60W, apparently.
     
  11. RussellK

    RussellK Member

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    That's pretty much it. I don't get too het up about soldering irons - you turn them on, they get hot. Provided they end up somewhere around 360 degrees and stay within, I dunno, 20 degrees either side of that, they'll do the job.

    If pressed, the only thing I'd probably care about is the shape and lightness of the iron itself, and the flex and weight of the cord, and the pricier irons are definitely better in this regard, but it doesn't mean you can't solder just fine with a chunkier iron and cord.

    With regard to desoldering, if you're finding it's taking too long or too difficult to get the joint to melt, try adding a bit of solder while the iron's touching the joint. It'll provide better heat conduction from the tip to the joint, and increase the effective surface area of contact.
     
  12. OP
    OP
    trackhappy

    trackhappy Member

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    Thanks for that. I know there's not much to an iron, but I just want to make sure I get something that's easier to work with.

    That's what I tried doing, but the new solder just sits on top of the oxide layer, no matter how much I IPA or flux the joint, it just didn't seem to want to melt it.
     
  13. ewok85

    ewok85 Member

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    I have an FX-888 - great for the occasional work, very quick to warm up and comfortable to use. I bought mine here in Japan, but for around $100 I got the unit, a few different tips and some spare bits (sponges, etc). Seem like a nice company - they sent a pretty catalog along with my order :)

    Edit: They have them on Amazon.com for $83 - I don't think it ships to Australia but you should be able to get them for around $100 from somewhere.

    Edit2: I also have a HAKKO FX-901 in my tool bag - good for when I just need to solder something onsite.

    Tip shape/size depends wholly on the application - they all have their uses and pros/cons. Using the right shape/size can make things much easier, but for most things a simple small conical tip is generally the most flexible.

    Examples: http://www.hakko.com/english/tip_selection/type.html
     
    Last edited: Feb 25, 2013
  14. RussellK

    RussellK Member

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    The flux in the solder you add should do the job - from the sound of it, your iron isn't hot enough.
     
  15. nobbo

    nobbo New Member

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    Agreed, the iron is not hot enough and maybe solder is Lead free wich requires more heat, I use multicore solder, it expesive but generally works every where
     
  16. OP
    OP
    trackhappy

    trackhappy Member

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    I'd say the iron was too weak, as well. It was 20W, but even with the 130W turbo button held for a significant period, it didn't appear to do much.

    Absolutely not using lead-free solder, .7mm 60/40. A bit on the thick side, I know, but Jaycar isn't exactly known for stocking "quality" items. In fact I was surprised that they even stocked proper Goot wick.
     
  17. OP
    OP
    trackhappy

    trackhappy Member

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    Just found one of these on eBay. It's a soldering station, rework station and a 0-30VDC 5A power supply all in one.

    Would this be any good or is it best to avoid off-brand Chinese stations? I really do like the look of this one and it is killing 3 stones with one bird by buying this unit.

    Thanks.
     
  18. paulvk

    paulvk Member

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  19. TERRA Operative

    TERRA Operative Member

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    That soldering iron/psu liiks like the standard Chinese offering.
    I for one wouldn't be using it to power anything sensitive... I doubt it was made to a quality, rather to a (very low) price.
    It'll be a jack of all trades, master of none type deal (I see it all the time with the Chinese welders that cone in for repair at work). Better to stick to discreet tools, otherwise the failure of one part could leave you with nothing usable at all.

    The EEVBlog has some very good videos on power supplies.
     
  20. Excess

    Excess Member

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    I use the basic $80 Goot 46W soldering iron from jaycar with 0.3mm head for some diy audio stuff and it works fine. Always use flux and for ROHS compliant PCB boards remember to add a tiny bit of lead solder for better strength.

    The $170 linked Tenma station looks very tempting though, always wanted a heatgun for heat strinking and non-contact desoldering. Probably get one in the near future.
     

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