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Consolidated Soldering and Rework thread

Discussion in 'Electronics & Electrics' started by trackhappy, Feb 23, 2013.

  1. Bravs

    Bravs Member

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    I agree with trackhappy, don't use pbfree solder unless you have to.
    Also, if you dont need the job to be tidy. I'd just use a no clean solder, I find Multicore 60/40 511 Crystal solder best.
    If you don't use a lot of flux at work, it might be cheaper if you grab some flux gel. I use this one at home .

    You'll find adding some flux on the pin you need to desolder makes a little bit easier. Suck the old solder first with a solder pump until the pin is free from solder, then work on the other pins. Once the component is out then you can thoroughly clean the pads. Adding new solder and sucking it works well, dont forget to add some flux.
     
  2. BlueRaven

    BlueRaven Member

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    I should clarify, I'm not trying to re-solder with lead free stuff.
    I just found the existing lead-free solder difficult to reflow, remove or otherwise rework when replacing components.

    I'll follow this method, completely cleaning the old pb-free stuff with the aid of flux gel and 60/40 solder if necessary, thoroughly clean the pads, then re-tin the joint from scratch.

    Thanks for the advice guys. :thumbup:
     
  3. Agg

    Agg Lord of the Pings

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    Just a quick note about the soldering course that CTMS ran last month - it really was fantastic. Even as an amateur I found the content really worthwhile and have fixed a few minor soldering jobs around the house and for my mates since then, with a lot more skill and confidence than before. It was great to meet a few OCAU people and we even got given some goodies to take home. Definitely a worthwhile experience and highly recommended.


    Click to view full size!
     
  4. goldpenis

    goldpenis Member

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    Glad to hear you enjoyed it. Andrew Brown (the teacher) is great too! Excellent knowledge and a great overall guy. What did you think of the soldering equipment used?
     
  5. Agg

    Agg Lord of the Pings

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    Yup, Andrew seems like a nice guy and a genuinely enthusiastic teacher. His son was even in the class. :) I only have a string of dodgy Dick Smith soldering irons to compare it to, but the equipment used in the class seemed top notch. It made everything a lot simpler and neater anyway. Cheaper than I expected, too. Tempting..
     
  6. dakiller

    dakiller (Oscillating & Impeding)

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    Those Metcal Iron's are pretty much the best soldering iron's you can buy, not cheap either - http://www.mektronics.com.au/solder...etcal-mx-5220-ultrafine-soldering-system.html
     
  7. Agg

    Agg Lord of the Pings

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    Hrm, I don't think that's exactly the unit we were using. The screen looks to be in a slightly different location for a start.
     
  8. OP
    OP
    trackhappy

    trackhappy Member

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    Soldering course? Man, I'd love to have done that.

    Any plans to come to Brisbane, CTMS? :thumbup:
     
  9. dakiller

    dakiller (Oscillating & Impeding)

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    That's the fist one I found quickly, still in the same realm and price range though
     
  10. CTMS

    CTMS Member

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    Same realm, but the systems used in the training class are priced much better than $735.00 ex gst.

    The soldering systems that were used in the class was the Thermaltronics TMT-9000S. Available in Oz from Altronics, Wes Components, RMS Parts, Westec and prices range from around $420.00 ex gst up to $495.00 ex gst

    [​IMG]

    Thermaltronics is made up of ex Metcal staff that took advantage of the patent running out a few years back on Metcal's Smartheat technology. There's abit more info on this technology on page 7 of this thread and also here

    http://forums.overclockers.com.au/showthread.php?t=971697

    Altronics also stock the Thermaltronics TMT-2000S which has a retail price of around $315.00 inc gst. Might be better on the hip pocket (wholesale/trade accounts pricing is a abit cheaper too, under $250.00 inc gst)

    http://www.altronics.com.au/index.asp?search=thermaltronics&area=srch&Submit=SEARCH

    [​IMG]
     
  11. aznpsuazn

    aznpsuazn Member

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    Duratec $30 Jaycar just carked it. Will probably get the Yihua Hobbyking charger. But does anyone have a better model that's collecting dust?
     
  12. 2xCPU

    2xCPU Member

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  13. Modafroman

    Modafroman Member

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    This might not be the best place for it, but does anyone have any advice for desoldering this:

    [​IMG]

    The top 5 and bottom 5 pins that hold the daughterboard onto the mainboard. Looks like i've butchered it, probably have, ah wells. It's only held in with those 10 solder points, i'm fairly sure i've removed 99% of the solder using wick, but the board just won't budge :\

    Any advice? Or anyone in the Brisbane area with better soldering skills than I willing to help? :o
     
  14. Mjollnir

    Mjollnir Member

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    To remove solder, sometimes you have to add more to it for heat to conduct, then use the wick soak up as much as you can.
     
  15. Modafroman

    Modafroman Member

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    Ah ok, thanks for the tip :)

    Ended up getting the board off with a combination of that (reflow solder and remove the entire lot), heating each pin up and applying gentle prying force :)
     
  16. Modafroman

    Modafroman Member

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    So in addition to the previous post, and going back to the OP of this thread, I've decided I should get soldering station, for the maybe 1-2 soldering jobs I do per year.

    Decided that the Yihua 936 from hobbyking looks like a good way to go.... looks like they have some other units for a bit more, reckon its worth spending a bit more money, or just get the cheap one? As I said, I probably only do 1-2 soldering jobs a year, very very much a hobbyist/noob, so yea. Maybe spend a bit more to get better quality/less risk of killing myself? IDK, $16 for the 936,so cheap!

    What do you guys reckon?
     
  17. brokenback

    brokenback Member

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    Can you get a pair of side cutters in to cut the pins between the daughter board and main board?

    Easier to cut them...them remove the daughter board ....then unsolder the left over cut pins from the boards, then replace the pins with new ones or whatever suitable sized solid core wire.

    edit:

    to late already done. In answer to the solder station...the hobby king one is not bad for the price. Just get that: some spare and different tips from fleabay; some liquid flux; solder wick (various sizes:fleabay) some 60:40 solder...lets say some .8mm some 1.2mm sized; some of the curly brass solder iron tip cleaner and some of the acid based flux tip cleaner. That should do for awhile
     
    Last edited: Jan 4, 2015
  18. Modafroman

    Modafroman Member

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    Cheers for the response, will keep it in mind and probably grab one of the hobbyking stations for fun :)

    Cutting the pins wasn't an option, they were hard connected/seated to the motherboard, just wasn't in my skill set to do anything further.

    Got it all replaced and works now, so yea :) Just took a few more hours than I was expecting and a fair amount of swearing haha.
     
  19. GTR27

    GTR27 Member

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    So after a long time of dicking around at home with a cheap, shitty jaycar iron (the nasty 30/130w one with a button for "boost") it finally shit itself. I was sick of having inconsistent heating and slow recovery. So I splashed out for australian stock Hako FX-888D. My god, its such an awesome difference between the two. Soldering now is unbelivably easy compared to the cheap iron. It heats up awesomely fast, and it really seems to transfer heat well. It's built like a brick shithouse too.

    I know its ~$180 AUD, but if you want to solder, or you find yourself doing it a bit, its seriously the best investment ever to get a decent soldering station. I'm sure there are better ones out there, but ease of replacement parts made me lean this way (and its genuine aus stock).

    A+++
     
  20. merlin13

    merlin13 Member

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    Ack - if I'd looked in here in time you could have brought this around to either my home at Darra or where I'm driving hot sticks at Acacia Ridge and I would have hit it with the proper desoldering gear... would have taken all of about 2 minutes. :)
     

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