1. OCAU Merchandise is available! Check out our 20th Anniversary Mugs, Classic Logo Shirts and much more! Discussion in this thread.
    Dismiss Notice

[WORKLOG] Custom loop in Corsair 4000x Case

Discussion in 'Extreme and Water Cooling' started by Wacko02, Mar 26, 2022.

  1. Wacko02

    Wacko02 Member

    Joined:
    May 26, 2003
    Messages:
    1,050
    Location:
    Melbourne
    It's been pretty quiet in here lately, so I thought I'd better water cool something for our amusement. It's nothing fancy or overly challenging (so far) as I'm just turning my son's system into a hard loop for him. He requested an all white build which was built a year ago now, but overall theme didn't quite work due to GPU size (too thicc for vertical mounting), so going to fix that in the process.

    Current specs and pictures below:
    Case: Corsair ICUE 4000X RGB White
    Mobo: Asus ROG Strix B550-A Gaming
    CPU: AMD 5600x
    RAM: Corsair Vengeance RGB PRO 32GB (4x8GB), PC4-28800 (3600MHz) DDR4, 18-19-19-39, 1.35v, Quad Channel Kit, White
    GPU: Galax HOF 3080 Ti (white)
    PSU: Corsair RM850x & Corsair Sleeved Cable Kit in white
    Cooling: Corsair H100i Elite Capellix AIO
    3 x 120mm Corsair QL120 fans in front
    HDD: 1TB Samsung 980 Pro NVME for OS (Win 10)
    2 TB Samsung 970 SSD (2.5") for games/storage.

    Pics: Note that these have my old 1070 Ti installed as they were taken before the 3080 Ti was ordered and installed. Unfortunately, the 3080Ti was up against the glass side panel once installed in the vertical position and starved it of air, so had to revert back to the standard installation.
    20210403_145404.jpg 20210403_145413.jpg 20210403_145427.jpg 20210403_145457.jpg
     
    Last edited: Mar 26, 2022
    woja and The Beast like this.
  2. OP
    OP
    Wacko02

    Wacko02 Member

    Joined:
    May 26, 2003
    Messages:
    1,050
    Location:
    Melbourne
    The Plan.....
    Have been accumulating bits and pieces over the last month or so, with a mix of used and new parts to keep costs reasonable.
    CPU Block: EK Quantum-Velocity D-RGB Nickel Plexi (used)
    GPU Block: Alphacool Eisblock Aurora Acryl with backplate (new but waiting on shipping from Aquatuning)
    Rads: 360mm Corsair XR5 in front and 240mm XR5 in the top (both white of course) (Used and new respectively)
    Fans: will leave the QL120's in the front, but get another box of 3 white ones for the top 240mm Rad and the rear fan. They're not the best performing ones out there but will keep the look clean and all from a single controller and app.
    Pump/Res: Corsair Hydro X XD3 in white (new)
    Fittings: Mix of Alphacool, Byski and Barrow white fittings (waiting on shipping from Aquatuning).
    Tube: 14mm Clear Corsair PMMA
    Coolant: Corsair XL8 Red

    I have everything ready to go except the GPU block and fittings, as I didn't tick the UPS shipping option when I ordered, so although everything is in stock, it's been sitting and waiting for shipping for the last 3 weeks! :upset:
    I have to move house in a couple of weeks as well, so might be a month before I get back to this unfortunately.

    Plan is pretty straight forward with 240mm rad at the top, and will just install the 360mm rad in the front behind the current fans. CPU block goes on, GPU block get's installed, and will also pick up a PCIe-4.0 riser cable for the GPU as it will be vertically mounted this time.

    Pump Res will be mounted to the front Rad using all the installed brackets so that it's 'facing' the side panel. Was quite impressed by the XD3 when I opened it up as it's a pretty comprehensive bundle. Includes a temp sensor as well, so that will be plugged in and connected to the mobo temp sensor header (saves buying a Commander Pro or Quadro, so that's a win!). Hope it performs as good as it looks!

    Haven't entirely worked out the tube runs yet, as I'm the type that needs to have it in front of me and test fitted so I can visualise how it will all come together. Main decisions are around which order to do the CPU, GPU and top Rad, and also which end to put the ports for the top Rad. Most likely will have ports at the back as it's closer to the blocks, but will need a longish run from either one of the blocks or the top Rad to get back to the front Rad.

    This case won't take a 360mm top rad unfortunately, although a 280mm would fit, but would mean a more complicated fan arrangement. As it's only a 5600x CPU, most of the heat will come from the GPU so figure the 360 and 240 combo should be sufficient.

    XD3 has a fill port in top, and can add a drain port below if needed as I have a valve on order, but will see how it all comes together first.
     
    woja likes this.
  3. OP
    OP
    Wacko02

    Wacko02 Member

    Joined:
    May 26, 2003
    Messages:
    1,050
    Location:
    Melbourne
    to be continued......
     
    Cinnamonbun and Dr Evil like this.
  4. woja

    woja Member

    Joined:
    Feb 18, 2004
    Messages:
    680
    Location:
    Sydney

    Yeah the DHL option takes so much longer unfortunately. I learnt that the hard way
     
  5. Spyder6052

    Spyder6052 Member

    Joined:
    Nov 15, 2006
    Messages:
    1,264
    Location:
    Woodroffe NT
    yep i too have learnt the hard way... not using them (Aquatuning) ever again they are a god damned rip off for shipping, charge 3 times as much as EK and 5 times longer at a minimum.... i only used them picking DHL as i didnt want to have to deal with AusPost and all the stuff i have gotten from EK has arrived within a week only to find out that DHL and DHL Express are two different companies (how can DHL Express be 2/3rds cheaper than standard shipping???) and then they hand the stuff to AusPost anyway.... should have gone with Amazon...
     
  6. OP
    OP
    Wacko02

    Wacko02 Member

    Joined:
    May 26, 2003
    Messages:
    1,050
    Location:
    Melbourne
    Problem was, I couldn't find another GPU block to suit as EK don't make one for that card and only other option was Bitspower ordered from them directly and there's is $125 more for the GPU block alone.
     
  7. nCrypt

    nCrypt Member

    Joined:
    Feb 12, 2010
    Messages:
    2,633
    Location:
    Melbourne
    BYKSKI make one i believe for the HOF Extreme, 3080/3080ti/3090

    i have bykski blocks on my colorful 3080 ultra OC and EVGA 3090 FTW3, very impressed with them, very solidly built.

    nice build :)
     
  8. OP
    OP
    Wacko02

    Wacko02 Member

    Joined:
    May 26, 2003
    Messages:
    1,050
    Location:
    Melbourne
    Update from Aquatuning is that they shipped it within a couple of days of the order, but they had 'issues' at their shop so weren't able to send the tracking number. They've provided it now and all it confirms is that it's been sitting at the Frankfurt airport for the last 3 weeks. DHL...... :rolleyes:

    Yeah that was the other option and well priced, although it's always a bit harder to ensure it's the right model from the Aliexpress website.
     
    nCrypt likes this.
  9. nCrypt

    nCrypt Member

    Joined:
    Feb 12, 2010
    Messages:
    2,633
    Location:
    Melbourne
    always wanted to try from aquatuning, i got my coloful block from aliexpress, and the EVGA one i bought from PLE!

    GL with the build, look forward to seeing it done!
     
  10. OP
    OP
    Wacko02

    Wacko02 Member

    Joined:
    May 26, 2003
    Messages:
    1,050
    Location:
    Melbourne
    So finally got back to this on the weekend so progress updates!
    All the parts arrived ok, although one of the alphacool 45 degree fittings is borked so will refund that one (don't think i'll need it anyways).
    Pics of original problem with thicc GPU's in this case:
    20220415_195011.jpg 20220415_195023.jpg

    As you can see, as soon as the glass side panel goes on, she's gonna cook.
    Bought a Coolermaster PCIe 4.0 riser cable (150mm) so plugged this in and ran the GPU in 4.0 mode to check stability etc and updated the bios to latest version. Wanted to make sure that it was all working nicely before I pulled it apart proper.
    20220415_195034.jpg
     
  11. OP
    OP
    Wacko02

    Wacko02 Member

    Joined:
    May 26, 2003
    Messages:
    1,050
    Location:
    Melbourne
    GPU Strip down and blocked.
    Probably the most nerve wracking part of a WC build I reckon, just because of how much dollars are poured into a single component, but this was relatively easy with good instructions to follow.

    Gives a good idea of the size as it's bigger than a TKL keyboard!
    20220416_154626.jpg 20220416_160900.jpg

    Original construction looks pretty decent with good contact on all the pads.

    Had a few minutes of WTF when I was looking at the end of the block and trying to see how to attach the IO panel as originally it was all screwed into the HSF from the face and I'm thinking how the hell is this supposed to work! But reading through the instructions a bit further shows it screws back onto the PCB with the 2 black nuts you can see on the left side in pic below with a couple of little wing things. Not quite as strong as the original but should be ok.

    Block is on!
    20220416_205412.jpg

    Looks better than I expected, although my only point of reference is the EK block on my 6900XT.

    I also removed the "hyperboost" button off the IO panel which I hope is ok, as all it does is speed up the fans? :confused:
    GPU block seems to have a little cut out on the left side for it which has me wondering if it's supposed to be left in... :Paranoid:
     
    juzz86 likes this.
  12. OP
    OP
    Wacko02

    Wacko02 Member

    Joined:
    May 26, 2003
    Messages:
    1,050
    Location:
    Melbourne
    Test fit of all components done yesterday and a few different configurations for the Res/Pump to try and work out which is best (both for looks and constructability).

    Had originally wanted the Res/Pump facing forwards so you could see the water in it, but this really cramps the case up quite a bit and hides the RAM. Would have worked ok from the plumbing perspective though.

    20220416_213612.jpg

    Next option was to drop it down to the next fan slot on the Rad which would have made the plumbing a lot easier, but doesn't look as good.
    20220416_212845.jpg

    So ended up settling with swinging the Res/Pump around to the side on view and dealing with the tube run consequences. :upset:
    Fills the case out quite nicely though I reckon, with only tricky run being that the GPU inlet is on the far side away from the Res/Pump outlet, and GPU outlet needs to go to the top rad, so kinda has to swap/cross over, but should be able to make this neat.
    20220416_214012.jpg

    Have added most of the fittings to get an idea of the run now and will do a few bends tomorrow.
    Hardest one will be the CPU Outlet (right side of block) to the top back inlet on the front rad. Eyeball says there is a path up and over the RAM and behind the top rad, but it ain't straight!
    20220417_092229.jpg

    The other 3 QL120 fans have been added now to (2 x top rad, 1 x rear exhaust), although all this RGB has created it's own problems! System will have a total of 6 x QL120 Fans, and 3 x ARGB's for CPU block, GPU block and Pump/Res, while the mobo only has a single ARGB header.:rolleyes:

    The 3 Pack of QL fans come with a RGB controller for up to 6 fans, but the cables for the blocks etc are all different by default and aren't compatible with Corsair system. So have had to order both a ARGB splitter for the mobo header one (CPU and GPU block) and a Corsair Commander Core XT Smart controller as it's the only thing that I could find within the Corsair suite to suit. This will take all the fan PWM cables, all the fan aRGB cables, as well as the 3 pin aRGB from the Pump/Res and utilise iCUE for control. CPU and GPU block will be run off the mobo aRGB header though, but not sure if these will appear in iCUE or need to use the Asus software to control.

    RGB is a right royal mess though, both from hardware and software perspective!

    Have added a 3 way splitter to my order (shout out to PCCaseGear), and another temp sensor as i've used the bottom port on the Pump/Res for a drain, rather than the provided temp sensor. Looking at the sensor, it protrudes a bit rather than a flush fit one, so was concerned that if I used it in the splitter, it would restrict flow a bit. I have 2 temp sensor inputs on the controller and 1 on the mobo now, so will probably install the flush EK one into the splitter, and maybe the corsair one into the back of the pump/res where i've blocked off the alternative outlet port, although it's not exactly in the flow there.

    Splitter is planned to be installed at top rear location on the front rad so will be out of sight as well.

    The only other headache I've run into (so far!) is that the provided Corsair screws are either too long or too short! Had this for the front Rad as well as the XD3 Pump/Res brackets. This is despite it being a Corsair case, fans and Rad FFS! They provide 2 sets of long screws, but longer ones were crushing into the fins before they were tight even with a washer, and short ones were too short to grab onto the Rad. Solution was to remove the black rubber padding from the rear of the fans so that I could use the shorter screws.
    20220415_222215.jpg

    Had the same problem with the XD3 provided screws, as they are a fraction too long to avoid pushing into the Radiator when screwing the brackets to the Rad, so had to use washers for these even though the instructions say you don't need to.....
    All the Corsair screws are M4 too, so didn't have a lot of alternatives on hand either.

    Will also have to find a way to prop up the GPU at the rear (good old tube offcut most likely) as the PCIE riser doesn't sit on the bottom of the case and all the weight will be on the IO screws otherwise, USB stick doing temporary duties for this in the above pics. :)
     
    Last edited: Apr 17, 2022
    juzz86 and Elmf like this.
  13. Will S

    Will S Member

    Joined:
    Aug 15, 2003
    Messages:
    6,261
    Location:
    Coniston (Wollongong)
    yes, screws for rads are a bloody headache and I dont think the weight of the gpu will be a problem . Its a pity you just cant buy a GPU without fans etc ie. one that is ready for watercooling block to be put on

    I think filling the res will test your patience .....but am interested to see how it performs as well as finished pics

    Looks very clean...well done
     
  14. OP
    OP
    Wacko02

    Wacko02 Member

    Joined:
    May 26, 2003
    Messages:
    1,050
    Location:
    Melbourne
    that's actually a great idea! Nekid GPU's!!
     
  15. OP
    OP
    Wacko02

    Wacko02 Member

    Joined:
    May 26, 2003
    Messages:
    1,050
    Location:
    Melbourne
    Got all the plumbing done today and came up pretty good. Always hard to make the double bend ones though as I never get them right the first time, and adjusting them causes the tube to distort a bit. Only ended up using 1.5 lengths of tube to do it though with a few do-overs, so still plenty of tube left if I want to re-do anything.

    The top run from CPU to front rad was actually able to be done with a single bend, so was very happy with that. The rest of them i've tried to keep neat and parallel as much as I can.

    CPU to back port on front Rad. Will add the splitter and temp sensor into this once they arrive.
    20220418_154848.jpg 20220418_155223.jpg

    Dry fit of the finished product.
    20220418_155211.jpg
    20220418_155243.jpg

    Might do a pressure test while i'm waiting for the final parts to arrive, but still have cables to plug in and sort out, so might wait till then.

    Fill port on top of Res/Pump is going to be hard to get to and in the past I've attached a bit of flexible tube to this to make it easier, but won't be able to that this time. Not even sure i'll be able to get a plug onto it once it's filled given it's location. :confused:
    Might be able to use that blocked port on the front of the Res/Pump with a soft tube extension, but will need to figure out how to cap it off once it's done. hmmmmm....

    Or I turn the whole thing upside down and use the drain port as the fill port? :wired:

    The other good experience I had was using the Bykski Anti-Off compression fittings as these are much more forgiving to the test fitting process and you don't have to spend as much time de-burring the ends of the tube to avoid damaging O-rings. When building with the EK Torque fittings, I could see that I was taking small slivers of rubber off the O-rings each time I fitted them (and they invariably ended up in the loop), even though I was doing it wet. The Bykski fittings are much easier to work with in this regard, and assuming I don't have any issues with the leak/pressure testing, would recommend! :thumbup:

    Only minor complaint is that the paint on the inner thread of the compression fitting tends to come off a bit as you tighten them, so get a bit of this on the outside of the fittings after a few goes at it.
    Also a noticeable colour difference between 'whites' of the Bykski and Alphacool fittings.

    The other thing I ended up doing was adding a dab of Loctite to the GPU rear IO plate screw/nutss, as these were coming loose with the handling. Maybe not conventional (usually only use that stuff on the motorbike! :lol:) but as there are only 2 screws holding the whole thing up, I didn't want them coming loose over time.
     
    Last edited: Apr 18, 2022
    woja and juzz86 like this.
  16. The Beast

    The Beast Member

    Joined:
    Jun 27, 2001
    Messages:
    5,137
    Location:
    Gaufres. Bière. Chocolat. Moules Frites.
    Looking good.

    Way better off pressure testing now, if you need to replace a run it's easier before you cable.

    Yeah that looks, problematic. Buy a squeeze fll bottle (EK make good ones), and you'll just need to be patient and use a lot of paper towel to catch your misses!

    You could also just extend the fill port with a piece of hard line tubing and have it end near the side of the case above the return fittings from your rad, or, drill the front of the case (above where the front fans are) and put a fill port in there that runs to the top of the resevoir). It might be visible through the front shroud, but if you put a nice bling cap on it shouldn't look bad at all.
     
  17. OP
    OP
    Wacko02

    Wacko02 Member

    Joined:
    May 26, 2003
    Messages:
    1,050
    Location:
    Melbourne
    yeah i've the EK water bottle, and can probably get the coolant into that top hole, but won't be able to get a plug on afterwards without cutting a hole in the top of the case.
    I'm actually thinking that I can use the drain port with a decent length of flexible hose and just have the end of the hose well above the case top and let gravity do it's thing. Might give it a try and see how it goes.

    Pressure test is underway and might need to tighten a few fittings by the looks of it.
     
  18. OP
    OP
    Wacko02

    Wacko02 Member

    Joined:
    May 26, 2003
    Messages:
    1,050
    Location:
    Melbourne
    well it failed the pressure test badly, so I may take back what I said about the Bykski fittings yet! :upset:
     
  19. Will S

    Will S Member

    Joined:
    Aug 15, 2003
    Messages:
    6,261
    Location:
    Coniston (Wollongong)
    I remembered that my one failed but it was a missing plug ..... :sick:

    I ended up doing section by section until I found the culprit
     
  20. OP
    OP
    Wacko02

    Wacko02 Member

    Joined:
    May 26, 2003
    Messages:
    1,050
    Location:
    Melbourne
    yeah, it's gonna test my patience (and knuckles), but i've come this far so not going to give up easily! :lol:

    At least if you test with water in the system, you have more chance of identifying the location, but with an air test, it's back to square one and do everything over again bit by bit.
     

Share This Page

Advertisement: