Well I decided to go get one of those Dick Smith amplifiers (A2760) and mod it into a power amp to go with my modified Chaintech AV-710 soundcard. Shouts go to the various members at the diyAudio Forums , for the basis of this mod. Oh, and remember, this WILL void any form of warranty you have for this product. Step 1: Open the amp (unplugged of course). You will see the main sections of the amplifier. To the right is the toroidal transformer that supplies the amp and pre-amp with power. To the bottom left is the actual amplifier circuitry itself, with the input/switching section at the bottom and the heatsinks in the centre. And at the top left is the pre-amp. This we will remove, along with all the pesky sound-degrading tone controls. Click to view full-sized image! See those four shielded leads that connect the pre-amp to the amp? (the grey, black and brown ones in my pic.) Pull them all out. Step 2: Now, remove the fascia and unscrew all the nuts holding the pots on. Also, you will see a C-clip on the rod that extends to the rear of the amp, remove this too. This allows you to pull the rod out of the way of the preamp circuit board when you take it out. Unplug the green and brown power wires from the fuse board, and unscrew the ground wire (I put the screw back in the hole so I could use it for a possible future pre-amp mod). The pre-amp should just be able to be gently lifted out. Step 3: Now it's time to decide if you want volume control on the amp or not. I did, but I'll show you both ways. No volume control is the easiest. (you can control the volume on the computer or external preamp or whatever). Click to view full-sized image! Take two of those shielded wires you pulled out earlier, the shortest one and another. Now, look at where you unplugged them from, they will be labelled with an L-out for left out, R-in for right in etc. What you have to do is connect L-out with L-in and R-out with R-in. Simple. Just re-align the selector knob and re-attach the fascia. You will have some empty holes, which you can use you're imagination to fill (frosted perspex, new CNC drilled faceplate, wood panelling etc.) Put the lid on and you're done! Step 4: For those that want volume control, there are a few more steps... Click to view full-sized image! Click to view full-sized image! Desolder the 100K pot used for the volume control. Take four 25K 1% metal film resistors (I used .25W ones from DS) and make the circuit shown below. This is known as a variable shunt series attenuator, and basically lowers the signal as you turn the volume down. Click to view full-sized image! Take two 25K resistors and twist one side of their legs together to make a V shape. Do this with the other two 25K resistors, and solder them to the left most legs of the pot, as looking at the shaft. Take the shortest and longest shielded wire and cut the plug off one end of both. Make sure to cut right near the plug, as you will need all the length you can get. Strip the wires a little (about 5mm max) and twist the shields together. Solder this to the middle leg on the pot closest to the shaft. Now solder the centre wires to the ends of the resistors on the corresponding 'level' of the pot. Repeat for the other wires. You should have something that looks like this: Click to view full-sized image! Step 5: Take your new attenuator and screw it back into the volume hole on the front plate. Do it loosely so you can position it easily, make sure the wires are to the left, as in the pic below. Now put the front fascia and volume knob back on and align the knob in the hole. Remove and tighten the nut when the pot is central. Turn the pot down and align the dot on the knob with the mark on the fascia. Plug the shorter lead into the top socket on the amp board, plug the other wire into the corresponding socket (R-in to R-out etc). Do the same with the other leads. It may be a strech, just try not to put any force on the leads or resistors. When you're done it should look like this: Click to view full-sized image! Stick the lid on and test! You will have holes in the fascia, which will need to be covered (unless you just don't care, but you can't leave it half finished! ) Click to view full-sized image! I'm planning on a CNC drilled faceplate, once I get around to designing it. I'll update this post once I'm done. I hope this is useful to those who also have one of these amps. I unfortunately don't have any before-and-after comparison, as I leapt into this as soon as I got home. If anyone completes this mod and does a comparison, I'll be more than happy to post it here.