Discussion in 'Hobby Engineering' started by Revenger, Aug 18, 2020.
I wouldn't be sniffing burnt PTFE, that stuff is bad for you.
Agreed don't sniff the PTFE, I only noticed it lingering in the room when printing at 250'c.
So I changed things out to Capricorn tubing and now I also have a all metal hot end in.
Finally all the leg parts for the printer are done.
Had to reprint one of the green as I had a failed print.
I'll redo my OctoPi install once I get it on better power and have it not undervolting on me.
I'll install Exclude Region when I redo the install which you can disable a area where a part failed and still continue printing.
As I had to monitor removing wasted filament.
Next step is planning and marking all the holes for the ikea table wires, exhaust and filament as well as where things will go.
Left parts are PLA+ right is just PLA.
I'll use the PLA+ pieces for the main chamber and the standard PLA for the spool holder electronic area.
The blue is just ABS when I tried printing that for the plugs.
Printer is working good or seems and will be even more once I get this done.
I'll keep you all updated with getting the front perspex/acrylic and the build process etc.
My raspberry Pis arived yesterday. First time seeing one in person. Amazing piece of kit!
I got octoprint up and running, I've got it hooked up via phone charger, was thinking I'd use a buck converter and have it run off the Ender 3 PSU, but they say you shouldn't turn off the Pi by cutting power? Another option was to use the pi to power up and shut down the printer remotely. I noticed this morning, with the Pi on and the Mini USB connected, the LCD panel of the printer remains lit even if the PSU is off! is this normal?
Yeah the USB cable from the Pi to the Ender's control board also supplies power which is a bit of a pain in the ass when you need to reboot the Ender - you have to power it off and also remove the USB connector.
You can run the pi of the printers power supply you just need to turn off system via the web interface first before turning off the printer directly.
As for the pi to printer, your best bet is to make a cable leaving out the 5v positive line.
That will work and you will get data but the pi won't be trying to power the printer which is what we want.
Even with the above running the pi of the printer I would still do this as it helps the pi from undervolting by trying to send power while the printer is on.
As for me I'm starting to put the enclosure together, ran into a couple issues the prints striped when screwing etc so I'll repair and glue that as well I need to redo one piece of wood as one snapped on a corner on a test fit.
Also ordered a V angle rail kit for the led lighting.
But it's progressing bit by bit.
I'll have to more to share soonish.
Wow that is weird. The main reason for hooking up octoprint, is because there isn't a pc near the printer currently. So shutting down via the web interface is quite annoying. I think I'll get the kogan smart plug, leave the pi on.
You can also use a app I use Printoid on my phone has a power control page.
You need to access the octopi webpage or the app to start and monitor prints.
There's also plugins OctoDash that you can hook up a touch screen to the pi and manage it that way has power control I think from memory.
But if you want to leave the pi on a separate plug would be for you.
Hello all, thought I would introduce myself as a fellow Ender 3 Pro hobbyist.
I honestly cannot much advise regarding Ender 3 Pro upgrades but then I am also not looking for perfection. I am happy with "good enough". And I have enough other things in life that I can't go nuts on this as much as I'd like to.
"A 3D printer is a great thing to have to print mods for your 3D printer."
- installed silent board. Makes it much quieter!
- Added aluminium frame to the printer frame (perfectionists would advise against this due to frame warping) and my wife sewed a cotton cloth covering. It's got polkadots! The internal temp to roughly 45 which is ok to help PLA along but not enough for ABS.
- I also installed a smoke alarm in the same room I run my printer; just in case.
- CHEP has a gcode files that simply puts the head at each corner of the bed while you drag some paper under it. Takes a little bit to get a feel but works for me. My first layers are often too squishy, but I usually don't care; some day I will I am sure.
Where I feel I can contribute here: software!
I used Cura for a while but could never quite get what I wanted.
Then in my testing I printed a temperature tower gcode file from thingiverse that printed damn near perfect. I took a look inside the file and found settings for Simplify 3D. Apparently Simplify 3D puts the settings used as comments in every file sliced. I think cura might as well.
I took the easy route and paid the money for Simplify 3D. Bit exxy but has removed slicing as a point of concern. Can also simply import slicer profiles from gcode files made using Simplify 3D. Maybe Cura can too.
Was recommended to try Meshmixer as it is free. Used it for a while but found it kept messing with things on boolean additions/subtractions and other functions. Seemed like every so often it would find a new way to fuck up my model irretrievably.
Eventually converted myself to Blender. The software is brilliant! Honestly a marvel of the modern software age. The Blender foundation are now receiving donations from major studios to keep improving it too.
With all the magical things it can do I find new ways to fuck up my models through my ineptitude. But I can perfect revert my mistakes.(undo history of 256 steps)
Blender Pros and Cons:
- Price is right. 100% open source free.
- Swiss army knife. You want it, Blender will do it. Animation, rigging, modelling, beautiful renders etc etc. (Also may be a con...)
- Recent 2.8 or later interface is MUCH improved for newbies.
- The interface can be customised a bazillion ways.
- The standard help videos are bloody good for beginners to get started. 5 min videos. I did one after work each day(well, mostly) for a while.
- Once you get the lingo and a feel for how it works, there are forums/videos that have likely answered most every question you could have for a while. Community is huge and getting bigger.
- For those inclined, scripting/addIns/etc are possible and apparently quite approachable for programmer types. Especially if you know python.
- Blender is NOT CAD software with formulas defining curves and a modify-waterfall workflow. It is vertex/edge/face editing. Join the dots at scale.
- It does have a bit of a steep learning curve... Approach is patience... patience... You will not master what you want in a day and will never master the whole thing in every aspect. Did I mention it is a monster?! Also basic cartesian math knowledge helps. Not required though.
- You will use some addIns - in particular the 3d Print Toolbox and it's magical "Check All" button. But it is included with default install, just has to be switched on in preferences!
- Sometimes you can get weird things like 5 vertices in exactly the same spot. Or overlapping Edges with the same vector. Or faces not pointing the right way (normals). Or at least I do...
I am now a somewhat experienced troubleshooter of such dickery as I make for myself. I won't say I am a master or promise I will solve all your problems. But if you are having a problem with a model not being manifold(this is a serious problem for 3D printing) or bad contiguous edges (not so bad but nice to have) etc etc etc then I can likely help.
I figured most of it out trying to print a game 3D model of a bf109 Messerschmidt. Turns out game models have a habit of simply co-locating many meshes to get the look they want. 50+ parts joined together later and I got my print. And I reckon I could do it again now in one tenth the time.
I'm interested to hear how this goes, I'm doing very similar just another version of it https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3052378 < that one. I was caught offguard by perspex prices when I started assembling it and haven't bought any panels yet
Obviously the spool mounts on top which is out of frame, keen to get some ABS going!
Thanks for the replies and messages, I'll be updating in a few weeks, I've done more work cutting holes in the IKEA table etc but also broke some printed parts in the process being clumsy, so awaiting more filament to reprint them.
Once have things stable again I'll do a update.
millsy you won't be able to do the full height travel with that I can see but not a issue of your not using the full height.
Yeah honestly I was a bit miffed when I realised that, don't recall seeing that as a noted limitation
You should be able to print the taller parts for the top if its the remix of the Prusa enclosure.
Also remixing the parts in something like meshmixer might work, yet to try a remix myself.
If you are talking about editing a model to add a bit of height
As Revenger above says, if you have a model, you can mess with it to add a bit of height.
If you have a link for those parts you're using to join your enclosure then I can add height wherever you want it really easily. Or if you are willing to try out Blender (I haven't messed with other tools much), then I could perhaps try to guide you to do it yourself.
Oh I know how to fix it, just more annoyed it wasn't mentioned anywhere and I didn't notice until I assembled it Appreciate the offer though!
Extra filament arrived last week and was pretty quick compared to what I expected.
I spent from Tuesday reprinting and also printing extra parts I needed which came out perfect.
I used glustick on the bed for the PLA+
So I'm at the stage of putting everything together for the initial build now.
I'm going to start that mby today or very soon.
You can see the two boxes of connectors I bought in the second image to extend and make cables for the printer.
I think I wasted a roll of filament in failed prints doing this but as said the core enclosure parts are all done.
Next will be designing and printing parts for the electronics etc.
I am ready to put the enclosure together though need to shorten some bolts I got will be over the week or so that happens.
I am doing a slight modified design with mounting of the legs and raised nubs prints to the table for 3 of the tables.
Will show images when doing it.
Also I am printing TUSH 'The Ultimate Spool Holder' currently as it seems like a good holder.
I thought about spool holder designs, the default creality design uses friction of the filament pulling to move the spool, I have had this snap filament a few times 'luckily right when a print has finished', especially if its slightly brittle filament so TUSH should be better in that regard.
Also with the default design may have mentioned above, those using it should lube both the inside of the spool and arm with something like vaseline to reduce rubbing friction.
Glue Stick is great for PLA+ and what I use for doing that currently.
I've learned a crapload about 3D printing though still need to learn more especially about petg which seems very temperature change sensitive.
I seem to be needing to relevel from the control panel everytime I go to print else it's a bit off.
I do have some cool print plans for after the enclosure in the new year so stay tuned.
Although it's not as big of a deal with 1.75, the holders that only have the rollers at the bottom can become unreliable when the reels empty out and become light.
I've ran into big problems or seems.
Started to put the enclosure together, I managed to do one table.
I've broken all top supports for the other two tables trying to screw in the legs.
The PLA+ is brittle and I screwed up it seems trying to drill the screws in direct.
Not sure the best way to proceed now.
I'm pretty gutted and frustrated with everything about this.
If someone is in Perth and can help I'de appreciated it, as it is this will take me ages and already costing me a few rolls of filament in redoing things.
I have filament for someone to help me reprint things and can thank anyone for helping me put this enclosure together.
Really don't like the design for the legs from the Prusa enclosure.
They keep breaking even one I finished printing today.
The only ones that didn't break were done in the Creality brand standard PLA.
So I'm sure these were printed fragile settings or filament.
I think I may have been printing too cold as I was using the settings for PLA 190'c and seems layer adhesion wasn't strong enough.
I checked the Creality Ender brand PLA ones and they are fine no cracks on that table.
To not waste more filament I'm going to work around this issue by some sort of alternative way to mount the legs onto the printed parts.
Here is exactly what is happening and had happened to every piece except the standard PLA ones.
It just looks like poor design and very iffy about alignment etc.