Ender 5 first impressions

Discussion in 'Hobby Engineering' started by tumutbound, Feb 22, 2019.

  1. tumutbound

    tumutbound Member

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    I picked up my Ender 5 today. I had to have it delivered to a friend in Hobart as I live 60kms south and I would have had to pay an extra $US60 for delivery to my door.

    Assembly couldn't be easier, 12 - M5 x 25 screw hold it together. It took me about 2 mugs of coffe or 30 minutes to get it all done. All drilled/tapped holes line up perfectly and holes are clean and free of burrs. Wiring was another 5 minutes, all cables clearly labelled (in English).
    Quiet when powered on, haven't printed anything yet, still need to level the bed and find a micro SD card - or connect up a Raspberry Pi running Octoprint.
    I'll post a print when done.

    ender5-1.jpg ender5-2.jpg
     
    Last edited: Feb 22, 2019
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  2. OP
    OP
    tumutbound

    tumutbound Member

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    Got Octprint running on a Raspberry Pi B+ and performed the first print - disaster! A tangled mess of plastic.
    Double checked all the settings in Cura, all looked OK, Second print, same thing. Bottom layer was fine but then just a tangle of plastic.
    Ater a brief caffeine break, checked again and found I had the layer size set to 2mm instead of 0.2.
    Printed again and this time, it came out very nicely. Trying a benchy now.

    I'm having trouble getting a good photo with my phone (Huawei LDN-LX2) so I'll drag out the DSLR and try that.
     
  3. ir0nhide

    ir0nhide Member

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    Having the bed supported on one side of that always made me nervous; is there much flex in the Z axis?
     
  4. OP
    OP
    tumutbound

    tumutbound Member

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    It seems faily solid, doesn't move during printing.
    I'm still trying to dial in the printer to get good surface finish. A couple of benchys I've printed look good as far as bridging, accuracy goes but the surface quality leaves something to be desired.
    I did print a heat test tower thata had some serious overhangs and it handles thet very well.
    Currently playing with an MKS Gen L controller to replace the stock unit, mainly so I can add a touch screen. The large processor memory on the MKS will also allow me to add the various Marlin features I want.
    I also have a bl-touch to add but want to get to a point where I'm ahppy with the print quality before I do that (although adding auto levelling may well help the quality)
     
  5. OP
    OP
    tumutbound

    tumutbound Member

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    After quite a few prints with no so good surface finish, I found the culprit! The crappy bowden tube fittings allow the tube to move a few millimetres not matter how tight I tried to make them A supplied spare connector was no better.
    A few drops of super glue did the trick.
    I've since ordered some much better fittings and a length of PTFE tube.
    Even with the very old filament I have, quality is excellent and the few calibration cubes I've printed have been within 0.08mm in dimension.
    I'm going to order some new filament (eSun PLA+) and see what difference it makes.
    Still not sure if I like the flexible, magnetic bed. I have a piece of 4mm glass from and older printer so might give that a try tomorrow. As the aluminium bed is not level, I expect some improvement.
    I'm still to mount the BL-Touch for mesh bed levelling. I did print one for the Ender 3 but found due to the difference in how the X belts are mounted, it doesn't fit.
     
  6. OP
    OP
    tumutbound

    tumutbound Member

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    Well bed is definitely not flat! I can print in the centre or at the edges but not both - at least not reliably.
    Found a piece of 4mm glass from my old printer (Ord Hadron) and trying a few prints now. So far, pretty good.
    It does take a bit longer to cool down and release the print so I'll see if I can get a piece of 3mm glass tomorrow.
     
  7. OP
    OP
    tumutbound

    tumutbound Member

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    Spent a bit of time this evenng trying to get PETG to print - success!
    First layer is very finicky compared to PLA - no squish needed.
    80C bed temp and 240C hotend. Full fan (although I did find a recommendation that no fan be used for first few layers, still to try that.)
    Now I can print my various mods (bl-touch mount, hand wheel for extruder stepper, support arms for bed and a better fan shroud).
    I've printed the mount for the MKS Gen L board but waiting for a USB cable before I install it.

    image: bl-touch mount in PETG
     

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    Last edited: Apr 7, 2019
  8. DSTM (Dougie)

    DSTM (Dougie) Member

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    Good luck with it. Seems most have small teething problems, from what I have read.
     
  9. OP
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    tumutbound

    tumutbound Member

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    The only real (minor) problem I've had is that the supplied magnetic bed was not flat. Since I'm now printing on glass, this is not an issue.
    Biggest thing is getting the temperature correct for the type/brand of filament you're using. Most manufacturers recommendations are suggestions at best. I've a few old reels of PLA and the temperature range for best print is about 15C i.e. one if great at 195 but another needs 210 to get the best from it.
    PETG is given as 230C to 250C. As the Ender 5 has a PTFE liner to the hotend, I don't want to go over about 235C for extended periods. An all metal hotend will solve this one and let me print nylon as well. I just need to get a suitable bracket for my E3D V6.
     
    Last edited: Apr 7, 2019
  10. OP
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    tumutbound

    tumutbound Member

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    Tried to print some PLA after the PETG and ended up with a blocked nozzle and hat to take the hotend apart.
    Judging from the shape/size of the blockage, the PTFE tube must have slipped out slightly. No sign of melting or deformation on the end of the PTFE tube,
    Might be time to look at fitting the E3D V6 that I bought for a previous printer a few years back but never used. First I'll need to find a suitable mount.
     
    Last edited: Apr 8, 2019
  11. larszoe

    larszoe Member

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    Looking into getting into 3D printing and this was one of the printers I came across, seeing it wasn't your first printer why did you decide on this one vs an Ender 3?
     
  12. miicah

    miicah Member

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    Yeah I was gonna ask, what's the advantage over this cube design vs the gantry style in the Ender 3?
     
  13. OP
    OP
    tumutbound

    tumutbound Member

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    Supposedly a better print quality as the bed is not moving front to back causing vibrations. No idea if this is true as images I've seen of Ender 5 and Ender 3 prints look the same. It does allow for higher print speeds.
    Build volume is larger than the Ender 3.
    I want to enclose the printer so I can print stuff like ABS more reliably and the cube design makes this dead easy.
    My last printer (Ord Hadron) had the same design as the Ender 3 and I did have some issues with lines caused by vibration so wanted to try a different design. I think I'll have more success adding a direct drive extruder to the 5 than I would the 3. I just received a Bulldog extruder so this exercise may happen soon.

    The Ender 3 Pro would make a great first printer. It's priced well and the makers (Creality) have good quality control and seem to respond to feedback re problems or improvements.

    EDIT: Here's a good review of the Ender 5 with Ender 3 comparisons.
     
    Last edited: Apr 9, 2019
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  14. OP
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    tumutbound

    tumutbound Member

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    New controller board from Creality comes standard with TMC 2208 stepper drivers. $US40.
    Will be the standard board in new Ender 3/5.
    Still the 1284 CPU but does have a bootloader.
     
  15. OP
    OP
    tumutbound

    tumutbound Member

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    I was looking at options to mount a bulldog extruder as a direct drive rather than bowden, so pulled the hot-end off to take few measurements. What I found was a horrible, burnt mess all over the heat block courtesy of quite a few hours of printing PETG. The print temperature for PETG is very close to the glas temperature of PTFE which the hot-end is lined with. The answer is to replace the hot-end with an all metal one i.e. no PTFE to melt!
    have a E3D V6 that I bought 4 or so years ago for my Ord Hadron printer but apart from testing, never used it.
    I've found that a simple change to the hot-end mounting plate will allow me to mount the V6 and the bulldog extruder.
    I also have a new controller to fit - MKS Gen L along with TMC2208 drivers and TFT32 touch screen, looks like I won't be using the TL-Smoothers I bought after all. I've some replacement quiet fans (Gelid) but these are 12V (Ender 5 is 24V) so need a DC-DC converter to run them. I'll also add another DC-DC converter at 5V to run the Raspberry Pi 3 that runs Octoprint. I've just ordered a supercapacitor UPS for the Pi so I can power the whole thing down from the one power switch .

    It's getting to the point where I've almost spent as much money on upgrades as I did on the printer - but aren't upgrades half the fun?
     

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  16. DSTM (Dougie)

    DSTM (Dougie) Member

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    Hope you can get it sorted.That Hot End looks a mess.
     
  17. OP
    OP
    tumutbound

    tumutbound Member

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    I had bought a spare hotend with the printer and it's being installed tomorrow. A lot quicker than cleaning up the existing one :)
    As long as I don't print PETG (235°C), I shouldn't get such a mess again. Once the E3D V6 is installed, I can go back to the PETG as it's a nice tough print once the termperatures are sorted.
     
  18. OP
    OP
    tumutbound

    tumutbound Member

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    Well cleaning out the heat break took some work, that stuff is tough when burnt!
    Design for the new X carriage mounting plate is done. (Image attached of the new plate design and a PETG print of the existing design) The position that the extruder will sit in to clear the wheels, leaves the nozzle a few mm shy of the bed i.e. above the bottom of the lower wheel. This will need a bit of refinement of the hotend to extruder mounting adapter but this can then incorporate a filament guide so there's little to no space between the drive gear and the PTFE guide tube in the extruder. Hopefully this will help with printing flexible filaments. I was going to install the MKS controller but decided to wait until the TMC2208 drives arrive. This means I'll have some TL-Smoothers and a Pin 27 adapter board (installs the BL-Touch without cutting/splicing wires) available to an Ender 3/5 owner looking to upgrade - unless someone from my maker space snaffles them first!
     

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  19. OP
    OP
    tumutbound

    tumutbound Member

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    I printed out the new x carriage plate and found that while the overall size was correct, the spacing of the holes for the wheels, was not. I took my measurements from a Fusion 360 model of the Ender 5 that someone has created and I've double checked the drawing and it is different to the measurement I make with callipers on the actual printer.
    It's not a major issue as I can take the measurements from the printer and update the sketch I made in Fusion 360.

    It's a good thing I was able to 3d print it before I got a friend to make it out of metal!
     
  20. ir0nhide

    ir0nhide Member

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    Rapid prototyping ftw!
     

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