Film Showcase - Examples and Details of Films, Developing, Scanning...

Discussion in 'Photography & Video' started by peewee82, Oct 21, 2009.

  1. peewee82

    peewee82 Member

    Joined:
    Jul 12, 2005
    Messages:
    900
    Location:
    Brisbane
    With the recent revival of The OCAU "film is not dead" club thread, there still seems to be a lot of interest in various films, methods of developing and scanning.

    I thought it might be useful to have a thread just for showcasing our own results with film. The only requirement is that there be some accompanying technical details. They can be as minimal as what film you used or as extensive as what film, exposure index, camera, lens, shooting conditions, developer, developing method/time/etc, scanner, scan settings, and so forth.

    Hopefully this can become a sort of database people can reference when they're curious about using a film or developer, etc. And if they can't find the information they're after, a place to ask for advice or examples.

    Since this is now the Photography & Video Forum, it should be clarified the word "film" refers to physical photographic film, as opposed to a movie. Examples and discussion of motion film are, however, more than welcome here.
     
  2. OP
    OP
    peewee82

    peewee82 Member

    Joined:
    Jul 12, 2005
    Messages:
    900
    Location:
    Brisbane
    I'll begin. In the film thread we were discussing Rodinal. So here are some examples I have to share. First five are 120 and 6 is 35mm. All scanned with an Epson V700.

    Stand Developing & Pushing with Rodinal
    1:100 dilution, 20C, 1hr (30-60secs initial agitation, 5secs agitation at 45mins)

    [​IMG]
    1. Kodak Tmax 400 TMY2.
    Pushed to 3200 but still underexposed with poorly lit tungsten at night.

    [​IMG]
    2. Kodak Tmax 400 TMY2.
    Shot normally.

    [​IMG]
    3. Arista EDU Ultra 200/Foma Fomapan 200.
    Pushed to 1600 or so under tungsten light.

    [​IMG]
    4. Arista EDU Ultra 200/Foma Fomapan 200.
    Shot normally.

    [​IMG]
    5. Kodak Tri-X 400.
    Pushed to 3200.

    [​IMG]
    6. Ilford HP5+ 400.
    Pushed to 3200.
    35mm, f/1.4 lens.
     
  3. doigal

    doigal Member

    Joined:
    Apr 18, 2003
    Messages:
    2,847
    Location:
    Linkoping, Sweden
    I used to be rodinal only, but since its a little harder to get in the UK i've had to switch to LC-29 and DD-X. Having siad that, I dont have access to a scanner yet, so all i have for examples is with rodinal!

    See here, if the thread takes off then i'll bring them into the thread
    http://filmdev.org/user/show/248


    peewee it might be an idea to link the various soups from the OP ala the alternative lens thread?
     
  4. Athiril

    Athiril Member

    Joined:
    Jun 11, 2003
    Messages:
    3,977
    Location:
    Tsumagoi-Mura, Japan
    doigal its very easy to make "rodinal".:)
     
  5. djfiesta

    djfiesta Member

    Joined:
    Feb 28, 2005
    Messages:
    1,300
    Location:
    Waterloo, Sydney
    Love this thread by the way. These are some I've been shooting with recently

    [​IMG]
    #1. ED. Fuji Provia 400X (RXP) 120, pushed 1 stop (to 800), 105mm f/2.4, 6x7

    [​IMG]
    #2. Pegs. Fuji Velvia 50 (RVP) 120, 105mm f/2.4, 6x7

    [​IMG]
    #3. Happy Cyclist. Fuji Pro 400H (400H) 120, 105mm f/2.4, 6x7

    [​IMG]
    #4. Take a seat. Kodak E100GX, 135, 50mm f/1.5, M6
     
  6. Athiril

    Athiril Member

    Joined:
    Jun 11, 2003
    Messages:
    3,977
    Location:
    Tsumagoi-Mura, Japan
    Not all colours are right, Reala 100, +1 exposure compensation (1 sec, f/5.6, Kodak Ektar 127mm) cut piece of 120 in a 4x5" back.

    25ml Rodinal, 25ml Agfa AP-70 bleach, 450ml water, developed for 1 hour, started at 32c, 10min in was 30.5c, 26min in was 28.5c, 1 hour (end) was 27.5c

    Partial bleach and fix (so partial bleach bypass)

    I saw colour on the film as expected after developing, better saturated than my previous attempts, but when scanned, was less saturated... almost monochrome.. i thought it was... took a lot of heavy processing to get the colour out in photoshop, but the density range was so much better with this test thanks to the bleach allowing extended developing time beyond what would be normal.

    Since I thought it was way undersaturated to what I saw, i thought it was the bleach bypass effect.. so I put it back in bleach and fixer to do a total pass... but it left the film totally clear!

    So it erased the colour too... which it would have done initially.. no wonder it wasnt properly saturated.

    I'll go back to mixing in potassium permanganate instead of using bleach and also use my parodinal see if then it behaves nicely with bleach and fix (it should) or next time do a total bleach bypass and then examine the saturation.

    Anyway could have used further development probably another hour.. but results are getting better!

    This scan used 1/3rd of the scanner's histogram as opposed to 1/8th of previous tests :)

    results (yes i scanned while it was wet i was excited) (note: only the red, cyan, and yellow are the right hues, maybe to do with the temp fluctuation, more likely I suspect the bleach.. previous results once heavily corrected had all the right hues, will go back to permanganate).
    [​IMG]



    edit: cant remember the dilution/time for this, but its rodinal as a first develoepr on Superia 800.

    It's a 14-stop pull in developer (thats my approximation at the time), lifted curves in Photoshop, as it was only +10 to normal exposure (ISO 0.8 I guess.. >.>)

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Oct 26, 2009
  7. OP
    OP
    peewee82

    peewee82 Member

    Joined:
    Jul 12, 2005
    Messages:
    900
    Location:
    Brisbane
    Nice contributions. It's sort of just a film is not dead thread no.2 isn't it? But if it ends up being loads of pictures with some info it might be a good reference.

    I hadn't seen the filmdev soups database before doigal. Looks interesting.

    So I developed my first roll of Shanghai GP3. After it dried I cut off the bottom clip and it rolled to the top like a tie in a slapstick film. Haha so it curled for me!

    Somehow I managed to get it in the film holder to scan. All was forgotten when I saw the results. Oh baby. Impressive! I'm in love.

    Shanghai GP3 120 film in Rodinal 1:100 for 1hr.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  8. djnz

    djnz Member

    Joined:
    Nov 29, 2004
    Messages:
    887
    Location:
    Mexibourne
    Just bumping this thread up a bit, gives me more scanner practice.

    Rollei Pan 25, 35mm, Rodinal 1:50, 11 minutes. 100mm @f/4.

    [​IMG]

    Rollei Retro 100, 35mm, Rodinal 1:50, 9mins, 15mm @f/8. Might have been a filter on this, forget now.

    [​IMG]
     
  9. norbs

    norbs Member

    Joined:
    Jun 28, 2001
    Messages:
    1,629
    Location:
    Shoalhaven
    Where are people getting Rodinal from, and how much are you paying?

    I ran out of LC-29 on the weekend and need some more developing chemicals.
     
  10. djnz

    djnz Member

    Joined:
    Nov 29, 2004
    Messages:
    887
    Location:
    Mexibourne
    Think it was just on $10 from Vanbar in Melb.

    Can people post these sorts of chemicals? You could order it from them if there isn't anywhere nearby that sells it.
     
  11. norbs

    norbs Member

    Joined:
    Jun 28, 2001
    Messages:
    1,629
    Location:
    Shoalhaven
    No where near me (Shoalhaven NSW.) sells it.
     
  12. OP
    OP
    peewee82

    peewee82 Member

    Joined:
    Jul 12, 2005
    Messages:
    900
    Location:
    Brisbane
    I had mine delivered from Vanbar. $9.90 for 125ml or $18.70 for 500ml. Not hard to work out which one. The $18.18 postage is certainly overkill for the one item so you may want to find other stuff to order too.
     
  13. OP
    OP
    peewee82

    peewee82 Member

    Joined:
    Jul 12, 2005
    Messages:
    900
    Location:
    Brisbane
    The Fujicolor Pro Colour Negative Film Range

    • From 160 to 3200.
    • All 120 format.
    • The first 2 are lab processed.
    • The last 4 are home processed with a Unicolor C41 kit.
    • All scanned on an Epson V700.
    • EI denotes Exposure Index or at what ISO I rated the film.
    • I borrowed djfiesta's sexy bold small print captions.

    [​IMG]
    #1. Things Like Aerials | Fuji 160S | EI=160 | 120 6x6 | Bronica SQ-A 150mm f/4.

    [​IMG]
    #2. Pulls Me Under | Fuji 160C | EI=160 | 120 6x6 | Bronica SQ-A 50mm f/3.5.

    [​IMG]
    #3. Nothing Clever To Say | Fuji 400H | EI=400 | 120 6x6 | Bronica SQ-A 80mm f/2.8.

    [​IMG]
    #4. Laying Down Isn't Low Enough | Fuji 800Z | EI=800 | 120 6x6 | Bronica SQ-A 80mm f/2.8.

    [​IMG]
    #5. Footsteps | Fuji 800Z | EI=1600 | 120 6x6 | Mamiya C330 80mm f/2.8.

    [​IMG]
    #6. If You Couldn't Tell | Fuji 800Z | EI=3200 | 120 6x6 | Bronica SQ-A 80mm f/2.8.
     
  14. Athiril

    Athiril Member

    Joined:
    Jun 11, 2003
    Messages:
    3,977
    Location:
    Tsumagoi-Mura, Japan
    peewee: I much prefer your home processed shots :)

    Testing out my new Sekor C 65mm :)

    [​IMG]
    Ilford FP4+
    f/11
    1 Second
    ISO 100 approx exposure
    V500 Scan @ 3200 dpi

    6ml Rodinal, 50ml Xtol, in total of 500ml of Solution, so approx 1:83|1:10

    11min 15sec 22c, no level adjustments in scanner software or photoshop, it just happened to be spot on (for how I like it, and on my monitor, which is usually a bit darker than everyone elses).

    Slight usm with a ~50px radius and small percentage to give it some more pop.

    And a little sharpening.

    Crops:
    3200 dpi
    [​IMG]

    1600 dpi
    [​IMG]
     
  15. Athiril

    Athiril Member

    Joined:
    Jun 11, 2003
    Messages:
    3,977
    Location:
    Tsumagoi-Mura, Japan
    Astia 100f.

    Custom first developer for 6min 15sec, unknown temp, felt by hand, and not controlled (broke my thermometer yesterday :()

    (rexposure to light after, then Kodak E6 Colour Developer, then Agfa AP-70 bleach then Kodak E6 fixer, then some left over stabiliser from my C41 tetenal kit, otherwise would use a weak formaldehyde (dye preservative) + photoflo solution if that was gone <-- all process to completion).

    Used a high contrast recipe, also possibly too much benzotriazole (restrainer), as replaced all bromide and iodide with benzotriazole, and possiby not enough sodium thiocyanate (more would decrease yellow).

    Replaced metol in recipe with same weight of ascorbic acid (vitamin C).

    You'll notice it's on the denser end of the scanner, and her face is in a bit of ugly shadow, its beautiful to eye against any backlight, its much higher contrast, and higher saturation, as well as being shadows dont look so black and bad on her face.

    I've got another one the shadows are far too gone on the scanner, where they are totally visible and should be near midtones when looking by eye... fuck I hate scanners... V500 is a dog turd (just better than just about every other dog turd out there though).

    Scanner technology is a bad joke, optics are dodgy (many scanner just use pinhole lenses....), sensor is dodgy (even in these expensive scanners that are supposed to be made for this sort of thing).

    Even if there was a variable backlight for exposure control, I could live with the dodgy low resolution lens (lol @ Epsons marketing 2nd super resolution lens for 6400 dpi scanning in the V500 and 700 series.. theres 0 resolution difference between the two lenses when comparing scans), it'd usable as a work around for shadow density and nosie issues.

    Also Digital ICE sucks.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Nov 22, 2009
  16. Takumi

    Takumi Member

    Joined:
    Jan 14, 2003
    Messages:
    510
    great thread, good for comparatives.

    [​IMG]
    Ilford HP5+ pushed to iso1600, 120, rodinal 1+100, 2 hours standalone development, 8 agitates at start and 8 at one hour mark, a lil play with contrast and brightness slider in photoshop

    [​IMG]
    Ilford Delta 100, 35mm, rodinal 1+100, 2 hours standalone development, 8 agitates at start and 8 at one hour mark

    [​IMG]
    Fuji Acros 100, 120, rodinal 1+100, 2 hours standalone development, 8 agitates at start and 8 at one hour mark, a lil play with contrast and brightness slider in photoshop

    [​IMG]
    Ilford HP5+, 35mm, rodinal 1+100, 2 hours standalone development, a lil play with contrast and brightness slider in photoshop

    feel free to ask questions on development.
     
  17. Takumi

    Takumi Member

    Joined:
    Jan 14, 2003
    Messages:
    510
    I have used Shanghai before, not too bad and good value for money. Only problem is its very curly and the gum at the end of the roll to tape it together is non-existant, that's why i carried a roll of masking tape when i used it.

    Another issue I had, but only once, is the backing numbers on the backing paper got exposed onto my film. :wired:
     
  18. Athiril

    Athiril Member

    Joined:
    Jun 11, 2003
    Messages:
    3,977
    Location:
    Tsumagoi-Mura, Japan
    Takumi what was the EI for Acros box speed?

    Reala, process same as the Astia on previous page.. bit weird because i put in 300ml (35mm) instead of 500ml (120) (lol oops), 7 minute process for first dev though.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Nov 22, 2009
  19. OP
    OP
    peewee82

    peewee82 Member

    Joined:
    Jul 12, 2005
    Messages:
    900
    Location:
    Brisbane
    I really like that last one. The colours are really soft and pastely. Similar with your Astia but the contrast reduces that feel a bit. I know what you mean about scanning E6. It's so frustrating. You get a slide that's just a bit darker and put a bit more light behind it...looks fantastic. You adjust the exposure a little on the scanner to compensate...ruined. All the colours go nuts. And you can never reproduce the contrast and clarity. Scanning slide is like converting it to negative film.
     
  20. Takumi

    Takumi Member

    Joined:
    Jan 14, 2003
    Messages:
    510
    i think the acros was exposed at approx 200. random exposure time long exposure.

    i have a v700 does anyone know to get decent colour neg/slide scans? i am always finding the colours off. when i was using a nikon coolscan, the colour seem to be better and more accurate.

    would changing to vuescan help?
     

Share This Page

Advertisement: