First WC loop - Shopping list + advice

Hi,

Been wanting to do a watercooling build now for nearly a decade and have never organised myself to research and buy all the parts.

I've put together a list of my current PC specs, and a list of watercooling parts I would/could use and was looking to get a quick review of everything to make sure I'm not missing anything critical.

PC specs
CPU: 5600x
GPU: Gigabyte Gaming OC 6900XT
Motherboard: Gigabyte X570 I Auros Pro Wifi
Case: SSUPD Meshlicious - I know thermals won't be amazing in this case, but it's all just for fun.

Watercooling shopping list
CPU block
Barrow pump/block combo

GPU Block
Bykski waterblock - This is actually the only one I can find for my card.

Radiator
Honestly don't know enough about this to pick my own. Consideirng the case the requirements would be 30mm thickness and 280mm tall (2x140mm fans). I was looking to go full white, but that also seems pretty difficult to find. This will be the only radiator in the loop, so open to suggestions.

Fittings
I've heard more is better in this regard so I may have gone a little over the top... or maybe I haven't.
45 degree x 4
90 degree x 4
90 degree (low profile) x 4 - Low profile 90s are required for the pump/block listed above in this case.
Standard x 8
Splitter - For below mentioned drain port.
Drain port
In-line temp sensor - A little bit expensive, and I note that the motherboard I have has no temp sensor. So I will require a fan controller of sorts to manage this.

Fan controller
Aquacomputer Quadro - Other than the annoying molex connector, looks like the one to get.

Leak tester
Barrow leak tester

Coolant
Just distilled water in the first instance. If I muck this up it's not costing a fortune. I have seen that this may need to be changed every 6 months or so to prevent growth?

PSU jumper
Assume the old paper clip job still works, is a different solution required?

Tubing
EK ZMT - again, first time, so I'll make this easy on myself.


Have I missed anything, is there suggestions on alternatives to this? Any help here would be greatly appreciated.

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Additional suggestions
Biocide: XSPC EC6 Protect - Biocide
Filler bottle (any type): Example FormulaMod Fm Bottle, 250ml/500ml Plastic Adding Water Bottle, Easy To Control Water Volume|Fans & Cooling| - AliExpress

 

List looks good. A couple of suggestions for thought - and only recommendations:

- A CPU and a hot-clocked 6900XT on a single 280mm radiator is probably going to run warmer (and therefore louder) than you're hoping. I know you understand this from comments above, but make sure your expectations are reasonable - 400-odd Watts is a lot for a 420, let alone a 280. If you're dead-set, you can have a look at a couple of builds here with allowances made to connect external radiators - takes the guesswork out of buying a case. Spyder and Woja's builds come to mind.

- I like the Barrow AIO blocks but haven't used one - this one's clever, got a res in it too. Tidy. Check that that block will fit on the X570I - I had issues with clearance on a Bykski block with the PCI-E slot-side capacitors. From memory the magic number is 107mm, so you should be right there.

- Get a biocide to go in your water. This stuff seems to be treating me well. ZMT the way to go.

- Barrow fittings are great. Temp sensor is an excellent addition - ramp your fans off coolant temp, not block temps - long, slow hysteresis.

Don't think you've missed anything otherwise mate, top first effort. Do give some consideration to the radiator situation - you'll either need to tolerate more noise or more heat. Start worrying when the coolant is around 50C - watercooling gear's only good to 60C, and none of the probes you can buy are calibrated so leave yourself some wiggle room

It can be done, by all means, if your expectations are in check. Some great old threads in here of dual (or quad) CPUs and GPUs hanging off single 240s/360s. We've just softened with age (and also, gear now is built to a price point)

 

Thanks juzz86.

External is the plan if this build turns out too hot / loud for my liking. Baby steps for now! Note that the 6900 XT seems to be a pretty average version (I hear ASUS and other brands have done a much better job), so I'm currently sitting next to jet engine everytime I game.

I've checked and double checked fitment on the block and it looks good to me. I've seen a few builds using the same hardware which has convinced me.

I'll add the biocide to the list! Probably need a filler bottle too...

Thanks again for the review and advice!

 

Sounds awesome!
The meshilicious is fun to build in.

Yeah it might get a bit toasty with the CPU and GPU you have. There's always the option of undervolting if you don't want to go the external rad option. The CPU pump blocks are a bit of a bitch to fill/bleed, sometimes attaching an external res can help.
I usually go with a plug water temp sensor rather than an inline.
Aquacomputer quadro is a great piece of kit.
Looking forward to seeing what you do with it and what the temps are like!

 

Yeah I echo Woja - looking forward to seeing where you end up!

 

I have all my parts now for a very similar build with a custom WC hard loop in the Meshi, 5600x, and Asus B550i Mobo, although going CPU block and EK TBE Pump/Res. Keeping the 1070ti in there for now as i'm considering moving the 6900xt with block across to this and upgrade to new gen GPU later this year. But really, I'm keen to see how you go with temps as well as this is my concern in this case!

Good list of parts, and would second the use of the Quadro and Aquasuite software if you don't have onboard Temp sensors. Quadro unit should fit nicely on top of the PSU and yes, just change out the molex power to a sata adapter ($10 from PLE or similar)
You don't mention PSU though, and using the CPU block/pump means you have to have the mobo in the stock position and can't use the stand off mod to create room behind the mobo to route cables. This means that cables will be your biggest headache in this build! Might be room behind the GPU I guess but not all SFX PSU's have stock cables long enough (Corsair SFX 750 for example), but something to be aware of.

And I don't know how others do it, but the PSU ATX jumper cable trick will be difficult as you will need to have all your cables plugged in for the loop to be filled. Maybe there's a trick i'm missing on how to plug the ATX cable in again once it's filled, but i've been using another PC (or PSU) with a sata cable to run the pump while filling it.

As a heads up, there is a EK 280SE Rad for sale that would be a good pick, but I went with a Corsair XR5 (which can be done in white if you wish).

Looking forward to seeing updates and let me know if you need anything measured or checked as I have everything sitting on my desk here for my build.

 

Using the Corsair sf750 with custom cables and stand off mod already applied on the gpu side - Helps immensely.

I was thinking this for the rad, seemd to get good reviews... And it's white.

https://www.au.aquatuning.com/water...e-nemesis-radiator-gts-280-satin-white?c=7283

I'll post up results once it's all done. Might be a while considering AliExpress for most.

From what I have seen, and good be completely wrong, I think this is the way. Set up PC ready to go and have the 24 pin jumped to start the pump running.

 

This is what I did for my fill and bleeding. Had a spare 12V 4A power brick, got a barrel jack to match and wired it to a molex so I can just run the pump independently. Great for external set ups for testing or leak testing.

 

Just check your dimensions carefully as that has it listed as 153mm wide which means that it will interfere with the clips for the front mesh if you mount the Rad first, then fans on the inside.
Specs for the Corsair white XR5 280 are same/better and cheaper with local supply (PCCG or Scorpy for example).

Also keen to hear your thoughts on fans and orientation, as I went with 2 x Noctua 140mm NF-A14 PWM chromax.black.swap Edition 1500RPM Fans. I'm aiming for no/minimal RGB on my build though.
I'll have my Rad mounted at the front with fans on the inside of the Rad and sucking air in through the front. This will give me some airflow over the rear NVME drive (has a heatsink on it) and through the case and limit dust ingress to one place in theory. I have 1 side of the Meshi with a glass panel though rather than full mesh.

 

Besides biocide, would a corrosion inhibitor necessary? Some said yes some said no so I guess it's better be safe than sorry. But none of the Aussie stores seems to have them in stock...

 

my understanding is corrosion inhibitor is only necessary if you're mixing metals.

@OP, Before you order from aliexpress, have a look at PLE for fittings, they have pretty good prices and you're not waiting a month or more for shipping.

 

I ordered fittings from https://formulamod.com/ directly twice - both arrived within 2 weeks from China.
If you're getting something from aquatuning, avoid DHL Premium if you don't want to wait forever; it's basically Deutsche Post. It's been over a month since I placed my order and I doubt it's even left Germany...

 

^^^^ and they charge like a wounded bull.... took 42 days for a radiator to be delivered from them.... never again

 

Will have a look at PLE, thanks!

Yeah I actually had a shopping cart ready with AquaComputer for quite a few things and then got to checkout with a $158.00 delivery fee. Won't be doing that. Have found alternative online stores for the parts I need (including PLE).

 

If you're interested, I have the Barrow leak tester

Also have a Corsair XC7 block and Barrow pump/reservoir combo

 

Appreciate it mate, but already ordered!

 

buy a stick of silver and throw it in the res = permanent corrosion inhibitor.
my loops probably 14 years old. refilled a few times, opened cpu twice... no growth.

often top up with tap water

 

I heard silver and nickle, which seems to be quite common in waterblocks nowadays, don't like each other.

 

Finally received the order and got to assembling, but missed some pieces! Didn't order any plugs, male-to-male connectors for the drain port and the low profile 90s I bought are non-rotary meaning they point wherever they want with no adjustability.

Apparently I can buy some washers for those 90s to point them in a more appropriate direction, but open to any suggestions on alternatives. Koolance seem to be $40 a pop or not at all at the moment.

On a side note, I was doing some test fitting just to make sure everything will fit and I cannot for the life of me disassemble my graphics card (Gigabyte Gaming OC 6900XT). I've attached a picture, but there is a connector which is seemingly impossible to remove (I've broken it in the process). I assume the two 'gaps' on the side need to be pushed in when pulling out? I've wiggled will pushing, I've tried to leverage it out from the corners, in the end I got angry and pulled it by the wire and one came off (not a big deal as the RGB didn't work from day 1). Any help would be greatly appreciated.

https://imgur.com/HQO2Rvd

 

For low profile rotary 90s, EK is probably the best bet. Not stupidly expensive unless you want gold ones.
PCCG also have the plugs and extenders.

That connector doesn't look like anything special and should just come straight up. Could try getting a tiny flat jewelers screw driver under the bottom and twist it to see if it will budge?