Formd T1 ITX Water-cooling Adventures

Discussion in 'PC Build Logs' started by AdamMB23, Sep 29, 2020.

?

Should i sleeve my custom 24-pin cable?

Poll closed Yesterday at 9:34 PM.
  1. Black sleeve

    6 vote(s)
    85.7%
  2. Unsleeved

    0 vote(s)
    0.0%
  3. Who cares

    1 vote(s)
    14.3%
  1. AdamMB23

    AdamMB23 Member

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    Hello -

    Recently received my two-tone Black/silver FormDT1 in time for the Zen 3 and RTX 3000 launch...but acquiring (at least the 3080) hasn't gone quite to plan so i thought i would wait out the storm and do a hard-line loop with my 5700XT and Ryzen CPU (temp one yet to be acquired). Plenty of users on the r/FormD have demonstrated both hardline / soft-line tubing in the T1, even a few of our own OCAU members have some nice builds in it - so nothing too new or revolutionary just a bit of fun for lockdown.

    My current proposed parts list:

    1. Case: FormDT1 Two Tone Black/silver
    2. CPU:
    3. GPU: 5700XT Asus reference with EK-WB.
    4. PSU: SF750 Platinum with Braided cables
    5. RAM: 2x8GB 3200C16 LPX.
    6. Mobo: Asus Strix X570i
    7. CPU block: AMD Nickel/Acetal dRGB Quantum Magnitude
    8. Tubing: PETG EKWB 12mm OD hardline tubing
    9. Fittings:
    10. Radiator: TX240 Ultrathin (20mm height)
    11. Fans: 2x Noctua NF-A12x15 Chromax
    12. Pump/Res : DC-LT 3600 with Alphacool Eisstation DC-LT 40 reservoir (for now - already planning Byski Magic cube with EK DDC 3.2 PWM)
    13. Storage: 2x 500gb 970 NVME drives

    Some parts are yet to be ordered / arrive but i have received enough to start planning out my loop flow. Given its a such a small loop - i don't believe the order matters too much. I will be running PUMP -> GPU -> CPU -> RAD -> PUMP purely out of convenience for the fittings. The TX240 ports are quite wide compared to my other option (EK SE Classic), allowing in the IN ports of the DC-LT 40 res to line up more conveniently with the TX240.

    Unknown-1.jpeg Unknown.jpeg

    As above - my proposed loop. Quick Key for under Fittings listed above: Torq = (1), HDC = (2), FF90 = (3), EK90 = (4), white = 12mm OD Hardline Tubing. The gap between PSU/Motherboard measured 14mm so 12mm OD should squeeze through. A few other builds have included angled adapters at every bend but i think that looks a bit clunky - Prefer to attempt dual 90 bends before resorting to sequential fittings.

    Regarding height of CPU block and Fittings, the Quantum magnitude and Torque fittings come out at 50.7mm tall which should close with side-panel but may produce a small bulge. Still on the fence with this one - largely because the magnitude is $120-150 more expensive then the velocity for 3-4 degrees cooler. Only reason i am still considering it is because 1) I love the aesthetic of it, 2) Im hoping for a dual radiator T1 in the near future and would rather spend the extra $$ on a block that is 2mm shorter...That logic however would demand i consider the Heatkiller IV pro, coming in at 17mm and a fair bit cheaper. Ultimately - the decision appears to be aesthetically driven at this point...

    Anyway - Ill keep updating this post as i get around to it! This project is mostly for fun, first time experimenting with both hardline in SFF.
     
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  2. akostar5

    akostar5 Member

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    I'm looking to do a similar build to yours!
    Am keen to see how everything turns out
     
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  3. nCrypt

    nCrypt Member

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    Looking good! Barrow make a new CPU Block Res and PUMP AIO, looks and performs awesome for SFF WC Builds. Not sure what space you have to work with!



    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/10000411453657.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.19ce4c4dF6G4ed

    Havnt dabbled with Hard tubes, only soft, but i am a fan of using extenders where i can, as i like my soft tubs as straight as possible, but still prefer soft tubes as its much easier if i have to disassemble (since i move GPUs often!)

    Good luck with the build
     
    Last edited: Oct 4, 2020
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  4. OP
    OP
    AdamMB23

    AdamMB23 Member

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    Awesome - What case are you building in? Put in my order to EK, so hopefully can start building this in the coming weeks!

    I did consider this - It does look very ideal for the T1. But unfortunately would limit me to 2-slot mode in the T1, and I want to keep my options open for adding another radiator down the line..
    I also like soft-tubing more, but given Melbourne lockdowns i thought I would try something new!
     
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  5. akostar5

    akostar5 Member

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    Was thinking of the Formd T1 (impossible to find), Dan A4 or a wildcard silverstone milo ML08
     
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  6. OP
    OP
    AdamMB23

    AdamMB23 Member

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    Part 2: Welcome back to part two of my aimless rambles regarding my FormD T1 watercooled build.

    Having received my EK order on Friday (thanks DHL for arriving 8 days early - mvp effort), I decided to give the GPU plumbing a go. It quickly became evident that watching someone bend PETG on Youtube does not actually translate to actual talent, as inferred from the 60cm of PETG that I have now wasted on a single 90 degree bend. I guess it was pretty smart to order 3m worth. Alas, that of which I lack in talent, I certainly make up in whole-hearted and ambitiously placed belief that one of these bends will just work out. Which it did! (kind of). I noticed a few bubbly/grimy looking pieces in the tube near the bend - hoping to flush those out when I get the chance if its not permanent.
    four.jpg two.jpg

    I have decided to stick with my 5700XT until 2080ti's get a little cheaper but noticed a crack in the Plexi (near the outlet screws), likely from when the previous owner cleaned the block before posting it. Somewhat fortuitous though, EK having a spare plexi in stock for $40 shipped means I can get rid of some of the red/green stain from the previous owner.

    I might start work on the CPU side tomorrow but still waiting on the R5 3600 to arrive. Would love any constructive feedback. Please excuse the ordinary photos - my workshop does not currently have a light so am operating off a single lamp.
     
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  7. SSJ4

    SSJ4 Member

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    Thats such a clean run. Also love the way the pump plumbs into the rad. Nice and tidy.
     
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  8. Tazor

    Tazor Member

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    Looking great Adam - agree with SSJ around the run, very clean! Have you got the magnitude in yet?
     
  9. OP
    OP
    AdamMB23

    AdamMB23 Member

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    Thanks guys!

    Not yet! My CPU arrived today so ill probably get around to installing it sometime this week!
     
  10. OP
    OP
    AdamMB23

    AdamMB23 Member

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    Part 3:

    Small break in the uni schedule let me get to work on the CPU side of this bad boi. Installed the Acetal/Nickel D-RGB EK-Magnitude over a 3600 and am very happy with the look. Shame the cable is so long! I wish they had a short cable with the option of an extension for ATX builds (Like Noctua 15m Fans) but oh well - nothing a few cables ties cant fix. EK-Torque Rotary 90 Black fittings were then installed with almost mm perfect clearance. Overall i am very happy with this aesthetic - it was a little on the $$$ side but worth it.
    20201009_112133.jpg 20201015_131125.jpg 20201015_141216.jpg

    the Run OUT of CPU and into RAD was relatively straight forward. Opted for a single 90 bend into a straight run. the OUT of the CPU block is about 4-5mm taller then the IN rad, meaning the straight tube has a slight angle to it. When you look from below it is clearly visible, but from the side-on perspective it is difficult to tell and therefore something i can live with.

    The CPU IN run is not completed yet (bought a 2080ti and waiting for it to arrive) - but general ideal/place holder from an off-cut to show what i am thinking. First major issue is that the fittings (EK-Torque HDC 12) is too big to squeeze between the PSU and motherboard - causes the tube to be offset and angled, something i can not live with. So i have a few options - get the file out, flatten a fitting or two (unlikely to work). Order some classic fittings / low-profile, with a smaller diameter but that will alter my aesthetic. Lastly, i could attempt a clean run with no fittings - this would involve 2x 90 degree bends in very close proximity - one bend angling down in the Y plane, the other angling in the Z plane. Might give that a go but won't be holding my breath. Any ideas are welcomed.
    20201017_182102.jpg 20201017_182233.jpg 20201017_182259.jpg 20201017_182315.jpg 20201017_182329.jpg

    I have also started painting the accent rings for the EK-Torque white. Surprisingly they don't come in white - so i have gotten an etching primer with some epoxy enamel white paint (these theoretically do not touch the loop) so i hope none of these paints will damage the fittings/loop. I guess as always, time will tell. I also bought a DDC3.2 PWM pump and bykski magic cube for an Nr200p build that i may swap into this if the reports the the DC-LT 2600 has a high fail rate/noise problem. Thanks for reading.
     
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  11. SSJ4

    SSJ4 Member

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    This is turning out to be one of the best looking t1 builds i've seen yet. I forget if you mentioned it but what are you doing for cables?
     
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  12. OP
    OP
    AdamMB23

    AdamMB23 Member

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    Thanks!! I have not mentioned cables yet. Current plan is stock braided SF750 cables, but will either be order a set of Pslate cables, or making my own (never done before, but i have the equipment)...
     
  13. SSJ4

    SSJ4 Member

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    Im going to be shortening the stock cables myself. Less investment and half the work haha.
     
  14. Tazor

    Tazor Member

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    I know they're expensive, but I've had a few set of cables from Phil and they are completely with the money, I'm gonna be ordering some black/disco night cables for mine.

    Agree with SSJ, definitely one of the best looking T1 builds I've seen yet!
     
    Last edited: Oct 18, 2020
  15. OP
    OP
    AdamMB23

    AdamMB23 Member

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    His work looks fantastic - I don't think i would be able to replicate it! + massive customisation opportunities... it is very very tempting!

    That is a pretty smart idea - i don't know if i would feel comfortable butchering my only set. Maybe if i picked up another SF750 cable set...
     
  16. OP
    OP
    AdamMB23

    AdamMB23 Member

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    Part 4:
    If you are reading this...how are you going? Times are tough - if you need help reach out! Now onto PCs... Small update today, but a one I would love opinions on. Tonight I sacrificed a meter of PETG, and a quarter of my silicon insert (Forgot to take it out...accidently cut it woops :upset:) to produce the GPU out to CPU IN run... A double 90 degree bend with <1cm space between the two runs. Had a few attempts at this free hand before i decided to create a basic af mold.... It is quite hard to make two bends so close. The heat just re-shapes the original bend. Doing them together at the same time might be an option? Need more PETG...
    2.jpg 1.jpg

    Anyway - Here it is.
    4.jpg 8.jpg 11.jpg 12.jpg 5.jpg

    Scenario 1: I keep a bend similar to what is shown. It is ok - I don't love it. My T1 has lots of 90s to straights - This double bend kind of alters that theme, makes it more 'fluid' - unsure if it fits in. I can definitely keep trying to make the bends cleaner but unsure how much success i will have with that.

    Scenario 2: I do a single 90 bend coming out of the CPU into some different low-profile fittings. I get a sharper 90 deg bend and straight line through.

    Thoughts??

    Other news my 2080ti arrived - had a bit of water spill onto it during transit. Hoping no-permanent damage and can get that plugged in tomorrow. Also ?2nd rad and replacing DC-LT with Byski Magic Cube + DDC... anyway... Thank 4 reading.
     
    Last edited: Oct 20, 2020
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  17. nCrypt

    nCrypt Member

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    enjoying the progress!

    the tubing with the bends coming out of the cpu, instead of having that fluid bend, could use use a 90 degree t junction, somehting like this here to make the bend?

    Not sure how it would go with your aesthetics, but would seem would make the bend easier (since there would not be any actual pipe bending, just straight pipes, then use the fitting for the bend!

    Keep it up! and GL!
     
  18. OP
    OP
    AdamMB23

    AdamMB23 Member

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    My thoughts exactly! I have a few of those on hand. The hard tube connecing fitting (EK torque) diameter is too large to squeeze between PSU and Motherboard - it will work if i can find some good looking connection fittings with a smaller diameter. Thanks for the input!
     
  19. OP
    OP
    AdamMB23

    AdamMB23 Member

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    Part 5:

    Small update today. Finished off the tubing - Loops is complete. Just need to flush, leak test and get my white concentrate in. Also finished spray painting my black EK-Torque color rings white. I think they work well - very subtle accents. Also received my 2080ti FE + Block - the Acetal block looks much better than my 5700xt Plexi block. Enjoy the photos.

    20201025_173944.jpg 20201025_174117 1.jpg 20201025_174152.jpg 20201025_174330.jpg 20201025_175701.jpg 20201025_175709.jpg 20201025_175715.jpg 20201025_175735.jpg
     
  20. OP
    OP
    AdamMB23

    AdamMB23 Member

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    Pics for above poll:
    20201113_205057.jpg
    20201113_205108.jpg
     

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