Gauntlet I Arcade Cab question: Art...

Discussion in 'Retro & Arcade' started by Vanne, Sep 7, 2018.

  1. OP
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    Vanne

    Vanne Member

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    Lol thx guys, ok so kinda figured a few things while in the hotel in Nirobi. As this will be a complete new build, I figured I'd go for the joysticks that came with the cab, but never really played with them. So that's one, along the same thinking I figured I'd go for the convex buttons as I've never used them before either, and if I don't like them, easy enough to swap out. The main thinking behind the buttons is that they will be great for shooters and fighters.

    So I ordered the Happ Competition convex ones. I ordered 4 buttons each, as some games i like will need more than 2.. not sure how that's gonna work yet, but at least I'll have options.

    [​IMG]
    Haven't completely decided on 4 buttons per stick, but at least I'll have them for the option.
     
    Last edited: Sep 14, 2018
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    Vanne

    Vanne Member

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    [​IMG]
     
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  3. OP
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    Vanne

    Vanne Member

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    Thanks Elvis and Qwerty, i know the whole thing is completely personal preference, so there are no wrong answers, just different ones. :)

    Another change i will make to the cab is that i want a smoked glass cover for the screen, all my previous cabs had this and it does add a look of quality to the whole thing imho. I think there is enough depth there not to have to adjust the screen depth for the smoked glass, so i think it will work just fine, i also find that the smoked glass covers up many of the imperfections of the bezel fitting 100%, which is important if you don't have the stock screen and stock bezel. That and my kids won't be able to damage the screen LOL <--- probably the most important factor. :D

    The USB encoders i bought were the el-cheapo ones from China, should be here in a month or so, so will prob go into storage for a bit until I know where/what we are doing next year. (this is the first time ever ill be working with USB encoders.) I bought the 4.8mill ones, which will hopefully just slide fit on the cherry switches?
    My pervious endeavours have always been with hacked keyboards. so hopefully this will be a lot neater/cleaner.

    I will make the control panel removable. I have enough joystick parts back home in Sydney to be able to make a few different panels, depending on the games. so i probably will leave the original panel in tack so first and for most it will be 2 buttons per player.... (easier for the kids too :)

    might make another mock up panel for fighters, the repo art is cheap enough to make 2.

    As this cab will probably be for in Oz, do you guys know anywhere that can cut the mdf panels? besides doing the cutting myself, which is possible, but id like a nice clean cut. Does Bunnings offer this kind of service? I've seen some of the cutting rigs at some of the US chains, like ACE, but they are mostly for cutting shelving in a straight line.

    And here comes the question about the T moulding. whats the best way to make the groove for the t-moulding? I have a router, but id probably have to make a special jig for that job. or is there an easier way?
     
    Last edited: Sep 15, 2018
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    Vanne

    Vanne Member

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    Last edited: Sep 15, 2018
  5. elvis

    elvis Old school old fool

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    I've used these in builds before. They're fine. No delay, act like a USB control pad (so no input ghosting).
     
  6. OP
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    Vanne

    Vanne Member

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    Perfect panel if i have to change things around a bit...

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]

    Possibly looking at swapping the blue and yellow stick with fire button position as they are the main players, the red and green can stay "Lefty" as is. "Magic" button can also stay where it is.
     
    Last edited: Sep 15, 2018

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