General RC Discussion

Anyone interested in buying a Baja 5b ? Shoot me a PM if you are.

Has everything and heaps of spares.

 

Would you sell some of the spares? PM me if you will, and anything you have available

 

Whole list of crap.. (Few extra's but nothing major)


Baja 5b Buggy
5t roof bar
quick release tubes
TR rear upper plate
TR front plate
TR front shock tower/brace
TR rear shock brace
Killer RC Limiting cables
Killer Bee Kill Switch
603FS receiver
Windows (Smoke)
TGN Filter
28.9cc Head kit + Stroker
HPI Billet Clutch Carrier
Venom Pro Plus charger (AC/DC)
Futaba 3pk Transmitter w/2.4ghz module
10x Driveshaft Boots
2x Clutches (New, 8000rpm)
2x Insulator block gaskets
2x Carby gaskets
1x exhaust gasket
Full set window clips (new, RED)
Packet E-Clips
1x CMR7H plug (NEW)
Spare set front steering arms (Used)
Spare front hex. (New, orange)
Spare gears for steering servo. (minus 1)
Spare shock rebuild kits x 2
Spare 23cc Crank/piston
Spare rubber cap set for radioi box (NEW)
2x HPI tools (Orange)
Spare 668 Carby - Needs rebuild
Spare Rovan stock carby. (AS NEW)
Spare head gasket
Spare ACE Servo gear set. (minus one)
5x spare RC-Skin disposable air filters
Spare piston suit 23cc
spare rear shock, ready to use. (USED)
spare shock needs rebuild and springs (lost one)
front skid plate NEW
Packet of mixed toe in plates
6x front shock boots (NEW)
1x rear shock boot (NEW)
3x rear shock shafts (NEW)
Original Upper rear plate
Original front plate
Spare set rear wheels and tyres (Hostile copies) NEW
Spare set used rear wheels/tyres Hostile 50% left
Spare set front wheels/tyres HPI Dirt busters
Hostile MX Xtra hard wheels/tyres. (On Car)
Bowtie tyres on front wheels. (On car)
Fuel tank (NEW, still in bag)
exhaust, NEW
Exhaust, USED

 

just picked a Yokomo YR-4 M2 and a RC10T

http://icchyou.blog.ocn.ne.jp/photos/uncategorized/2010/05/17/yr4m0517_1.jpg

http://www.unlimitedengineering.com/gallery/files/4/6/0/0/RC10T01.JPG

still another 15 cars on the list...I need a bigger shelf

 

Damn dude.

I will PM you

 

My new Zen29 and Baja really likes mud.



Uploaded with ImageShack.us

 

Latest purchase! The wheels have a slight camber and toe lol (not suspension, wheels)

This is a vid on how it drifts. its pretty awesome for such a small car

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cwz2TDfHDkU&feature=player_embedded

 

Does anyone use a Mamba XL speedy? I am in need of a new ESC as I burnt up the one I was using last night (LT-10S). Nice little smoking fire in the middle of the road.

This would be going into my Hyper ST conversion.

 

niice mate, two cars that redefined the racing scene, resulting in one them being banned!

 

Parts arrived today, the Blitz is done in its brushless glory. Pictures and more when I feel like it. Probably tomorrow.

 

Starting the Chassis upgrade on my Xray.




Got a few extra bling bits on order too.

 

Ok, some pictures.

First is in its nice new condition:

http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l186/mv75/Image0184.jpg

Next is the internals, nothing exciting to actually look at:

http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l186/mv75/Image0185.jpg

But telling it is more exciting.

Servo is a bluebird digital metal gear (616DMG+HS).
ESC: HK 100Amp. I actually replaced the motor wires on it so they reached. I was lucky to have bought a length of blue 14awg wire, exactly the same already on it. It came with 12cm, I replaced with 17cm. It was better than making a short extension, and the esc has big pads, so soldering is easy as.
Motor: KD36-60-07L 3500kv, which means 36 diameter, 60 long, 7 turn and 3500 rpm/volt. It actually came with 4mm bullets already on it. Saved me the trouble.
Reciever is the hk3000. I went with the hk310 system, absolutely no problems. The battery tray is removable and allows a 3s tx lipo to be used. I'm currently using 8AA alkalines in it. The blue Aldi batteries are the best you can buy retail for reliability/energy/cost.
Battery is a turnigy 2s 30c hard case 5AMP.
On the battery and esc I've now moved up to EC5 connectors. It's a 5.5mm bullet snapped into the housing. I'm using these from now on. Even easier than xt60 as it actually fits the 8awg wire the battery uses, and are good for high amps.

Oh yea, I secured the reciever and speedy with some velcro that I bought a while ago at HK. It's blue and very strong. I use the stuff in all of my cars/buggies.

I also got a 50mm heatsink/fan for the motor too, not pictured, I had to modify it so the wires of the motor could be accessed. Yea, means I cut a chunk off with the dremel.

And I got a grand total of about 2 minutes run time today before it frigging rained hard, so gotta wait again for tomorrow, but holy crap it moves. Got a ton of grass in it too.

 

Uhh Oh...

I think you're wasting power no matter what type of 8xAA you put into your HK310. Plus 3S lipo? *lets off a giggle*

I have the HK300 (the boring model) and internally it has a 3.3v linear regulator - that's right, it's burning away around 2/3rds of the energy in an 8xAA set as heat. As a result I'm patently unsurprised at the reports that people have burned their controllers by running them on 3S lipo.

I've since modded my controller to run on 1S li-ion with the correct voltage warning light. In theory a fresh set of 4000mAh Li-ions would give me well over 20 hours of useable runtime with the power consumption of the TX. If you were to fill the tray with 1S lipo (probably 10,000mAh+) you could probably get runtime well in excess of 100 hours.

Even if the HK310 uses a higher voltage inside, the regulator will be at the most a 5v unit due to the modern micro-controller and 2.4GHz construction.

You could easily get away with running these remotes on 4xAA and shorting out the empty spaces for the cells.

 

That's interesting.

You can pull out the AA battery tray and there is a power plug to the unit under it, (designed like that so you can put a 3s tx lipo in the large cavity), so there would be nothing stopping me from putting in a 4aa battery holder instead. I can take a picture if it's not clear what I'm saying.

Could also explain why that certain futaba (can't remember model right now), only uses 4aa batteries.

 

Oh no it's very clear what you're saying, it's the exact same chassis design between the HK310 and HK300 TX's. I just desoldered the leads off the 8xAA tray and soldered my new Li-Ion batteries to it.

The HK300, despite having pots for endpoint adjustment, has a square window cutout in the plastic underneath the label - quite obviously for the HK310's LCD. The construction of the baseboard is also in modules, the pots reside on an addon board as does the microcontroller and transmitter unit.

Also you're right, the 8xAA trays are a throwback to when people used AM and some FM radios, as they required 12V or so of voltage in order for the transmitter to work have any real TX range.

Anyway, I wasn't too happy about how they had done a half arsed job of everything in the HK300 kit and now with the addition of the trigger pot on the transmitter starting to show signs of going bad I'm not happy at all.

 

Holy crap dude, thanks for pointing this to me.

I opened it up and found the voltage regulator is a lm2937l with a 33 code on it, and yea, with multimeter verification, it puts out 3.3 volts.

Info on the regulator:

http://www.dz863.com/pinout-87821963-LM2937/

I modified the battery tray to run off 4AA batteries, (read as I inserted one bridging wire), and it still outputs 3.3v, of course.

I'll give it a run soonish, it's drying out very nicely outside with today actually sunny.

So yea, I think just what you run, a 1s lipo would do the trick. Even make it 2x1s lipos to make a 1s2p pack for longevity.

I'd have to get a volt warner too as the inbuilt voltage display doesn't register right. It thinks there is 7.4 volts when running on 4aa.

EDIT:

So I ran it on 4 cells, worked perfectly. No difference at all.

 

Nice

Hope that your TX gives you better service than mine into the future.

It's a bit easier for the HK300 to do the battery indicator mod as you just modify the voltage sensing divider (it just has a light that goes red after all), you could probably do the same to your HK310 if you could bear with the false reading on the display (does it have a battery alarm point?)

With LiPo/Li-ion, voltage itself isn't particularly important - I have my limiter set conservatively to 3.7v (so there's no chance of the regulator dropout to become an issue) so if the light turns red it means that I can keep playing for now but after I finish up I should top up the cells.

Obviously when you switch to lipo you should also block off the recharge plug, don't really want to have a smoking TX now do we

ED- sorry probably not really the thread to be discussing this in

 

Oh yea, I've looked at cells, I found a cheap single 850mah lipo that I'll buy, and they have a buzzer warning device for 1s as well, so I'll buy one of those too. Only thing is trying to find jr plugs. I may have to use the one off the battery tray.

Also why wouldn't I want to charge via the charge plug? My imax charger should handle it fine. It can do 1-6s lipo and a single lipo doesn't require balancing. Would be easier to charge.

 

Yeah you could, however the barrel plug is compatible with all sorts of other supplies which you really don't want people sticking into your modded TX especially after you switch to lipo. You can also short out your pack if something metallic gets inside the plug (that type of jack is only designed to accept power, not give it, but how its wired does allow it to give power)

It's just dodgy all around, which is why I disapprove of its use after modifying it.

 

Here's my one,

I only just recently got into this hobby really fun but at the same time really expensive... luckily the guy I got it from is a family friend, he also owns a hobby shopp This is the Ishima Rave, not a bad starters car, pretty powerfull, it's nitro powered. Very robust.