Going Hard Tube

Discussion in 'Extreme and Water Cooling' started by AstinGC90, Mar 27, 2017.

  1. AstinGC90

    AstinGC90 Member

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    Hey Team, I made a post a while back about my dead Fractal AIO CPU cooler and have since gone to a full EKWB loop as follows:

    EK-CoolStream XE 360 (Triple)
    EK-CoolStream XE 240 (Double)
    Corsair ML120 PRO 120mm fans
    EK-XTOP DDC 3.2 PWM Elite - Plexi (incl. pump)
    EK-RES X3 250
    EK-Supremacy EVO
    EK-FC Titan X Pascal - Nickel
    EK-FC Titan X Pascal Backplate - Black
    Truck load of 10/13 ACF Fittings.

    I received my 1080ti(TXP) water block today and am yet to fit it. I also ordered the following to swap out the soft tube and ACF fittings.

    14 x EK-HDC Fitting 16mm G1/4 - Black
    3 x EK-HD PETG Tube 12/16mm 500mm (2pcs)
    4 x EK-AF Angled 90° G1/4 Black
    EK-UNI Pump Bracket (120mm FAN) Vertical
    EK-AF T-Splitter 3F G1/4 - Black For drain at the bottom of the loop.

    Went with a hard tube bending and cutting kit as it's my first attempt
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BX3EZUI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    Just getting a thread started as I'm sure I will need help on the loop layout and tube bends/positions/directions. Once I have all the gear I will get the questions rolling.

    I think I will go res - pump - 1080 ti - 360 rad (move from front to top) - down to cpu block - over to 240 at front - dump into res top or bottom side.

    System currently stripped a bit and has next to no color in the loop from the addition of the 240mm rad last week.:
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Mar 27, 2017
  2. Kosti

    Kosti Member

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    Did u order that bending kit yet, grab two I want to get hard too :thumbup:

    The only prob is not sure if I am going to go 14mm or 16mm
     
  3. Johnny87auxs

    Johnny87auxs New Member

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    I'd remove the top rad and go for a slimmer radiator, looks to chunky man and possibly change the order of the loop ..
     
  4. OP
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    AstinGC90

    AstinGC90 Member

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    Yeah mate she's on freight this morning from USA.

    I was hoping to put the 360 at the top to cool the hot fluid coming from the GPU prior to entering the CPU block then have the 240mm at the front to cool after CPU, the 120mm Pump bracket would then go at the front down the bottom below the 240 to raise it above the drain level which i will have at the bottom center. I've just realized however that I wont fit 240rad+120bracket on the front with 360 at the top so yeah. Might have to grab a 360 slim for the top or go ahead and grab my Phanteks Ethoo Evolve tempered :leet:
     
  5. OP
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    AstinGC90

    AstinGC90 Member

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    Got the block in last night. Idle 39-42c down to idle 27-31c. In game was 70's, now 29c-34c with some spikes to 36c rarely. Very happy with it's cooling capabilities. Put a UV strip in, the camera doesn't do it justice, the system really pop's IRL.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  6. OP
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    AstinGC90

    AstinGC90 Member

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    2 360mm slims are on freight as well now. Will pull the thick 360 and 240. Getting keen to get bending. Been watching a few guides, pretty tricky for everyone on the first go by the looks.
     
  7. VYAcclaim

    VYAcclaim Member

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    Pretty keen to see how you go with this. I've been collecting hard line gear myself over the past couple months, It'll be my first WC system so ill be definitely getting a bending kit too.
    Check out some of JayzTwoCents videos on watercooling he has some good guides

    Just curious what coolant are you running there in the pics? I assume its just Distilled water from the looks of it, And is that what you are going to run in the hardline system??
    And how are your Corsair ML120 fans, i'm considering grabbing them myself
     
  8. OP
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    AstinGC90

    AstinGC90 Member

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    Yeah Jay is great for tutorials in general. That's EK UV reactive blue but in those photos I have my board lighting on so you can't see it glowing very well. I have pastel white in my cupboard but Jay2C doesn't really rep them any more so I might give that a miss. Those Corsair MagLevs are whisper quiet at 1200rpm or lower. They can go full cyclone Debbie mode if you crank them up to which is great for hard benching runs.
     
  9. hawpinghaxbag

    hawpinghaxbag Member

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    Id only do 16mm if it was a large case with full sized mobo, it can look too big and hard to work with if on a small rig

    http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2316818/flags/LL
     
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    AstinGC90

    AstinGC90 Member

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    I like the chunky look haha, Can always pull all the 16mm fittings and tube out and re-do it. Good excuse to fiddle with something I enjoy :thumbup: My 360 slims arrived today, Look much more manageable.
     
  11. OP
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    AstinGC90

    AstinGC90 Member

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    Tube, fittings and rads here. Must resist bending without Mandrell's :Paranoid:
     
  12. ICEW0LF

    ICEW0LF Member

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    loop order is irrelevant

    just plumb it in the order that will look the best or is easiest

    only rule is res before pump to keep the pump from eating air - other then that the order will make no difference to your temps
     
  13. VYAcclaim

    VYAcclaim Member

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    Thanks for that. I think i might put an order in for some ML120 fans then ;)
     
  14. ShadowBurger

    ShadowBurger Member

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    +1 to this... The water isn't slow moving. That means there isn't time for the water to 'heat up' in a water block in the way that you think. It moves rapidly enough that you're effectively heating the entire loop simultaneously. In the same way, the rad dissipates heat from the entire loop simultaneously.

    You only need to look at the total heat absorption and dissipation capacity
     
  15. OP
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    AstinGC90

    AstinGC90 Member

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    So basically due the the speed of the liquid, the difference between cooling it in stages or as a whole is negligible? Has anyone ever actually tested the real world difference between pump - gpu- cpu - rad - rad - res VS pump - gpu - rad - cpu - rad - res before?

    I understand that your cooling capacity vs heat generated gives you your fluid temps but I would presume stepping the temps down prior to cooling the next component would see some change to the actual component temps(example. fluid temp 25c - enter gpu - exit 30c - enter cpu - exit 34c - enter rads - 25c - enter res repeat the loop VS fluid temp 25c - enter gpu - 30c - enter rad - 25c - enter CPU - 30c - enter rad - 25c - res - pump) In this baseless example the CPU and GPU are getting the lowest possible ambient water temps for you set cooling capacity at each stage. I'd say the CPU would drop a few degrees c and GPU would increase a few degrees c if my theory is even slightly on the level, as in this scenario the single rad probably cant get the water temps down to the 25c after the cpu or gpu respectively as only one 360mm is cooling the fluid instead of two at each stage, but yeah. I understand my numbers are entirely wrong/fabricated but they are simply a way of showing my way of thinking albeit that right or wrong :)
     
  16. ShadowBurger

    ShadowBurger Member

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    You're right in thinking but the math is off. In setups with triple / quad SLI overclocked cards, yeah, the last cards inline can run one or two degC higher but this is the extreme and it's definitely not a case of 25degC in -> 30degC out of a block. The temp of the system as a whole is still dependent on the capacity of the rads, not their position in the loop so while it's possible to see a "measurable" difference after a block, in practicality it's not relevant because the rate at which you're exchanging the water in the block is much higher than the block can heat the water any significant amount.
     
    Last edited: Apr 6, 2017
  17. havabeer

    havabeer Member

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    to put it simply, you are wrong. You have to look at it as a TOTAL system as its a closed loop.

    how your scenario would work is if say you have a river running by your house, it sits at a constant temperature of 20 degree's if you just pump that water into your computer to go pump -> GPU -> CPU -> back to the river then yes the CPU would cop the warmed water from the GPU because there's no actual heat being taken out of the system.

    but seeing as we used closed loop systems you have to look at the overall picture, so your GPU dumps in 250w of heat, cpu 100w of heat but the rads can only remove 200w of heat then the water will be heated by 50watts. so ALL components will cop that amount


    don't worry about it, i thought the exact same thing back when i started water cooling as well it gets brought up by most new people coming to custom loops because it sounds like it should make sense that way, but it just doesn't.
     
  18. OP
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    AstinGC90

    AstinGC90 Member

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    Thanks team, Love the input :)

    I will go with what ever route is easiest to hard tube then :thumbup: I assume my pump is good for 720mm of rad no sweat also? I've seen a lot more rads on that pump haha.
     
  19. ShadowBurger

    ShadowBurger Member

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    actually, it would sit on 20degC. same logic. the flow rate is too high for the CPU to warm the water while it's in the block. doesn't have to be a closed loop for the laws of thermodynamics to apply
     
  20. FuzwaldQO

    FuzwaldQO Member

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    I'm not ashamed to admit that I read that heading as:

    "Going Hard Lube"

    And my first thought was... oooh that's gonna hurt.

    :lol::lol::lol:
     

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