Hammer drill vs normal drill

Discussion in 'Hobby Engineering' started by kripz, Feb 22, 2017.

  1. miicah

    miicah Member

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    No, it's just another thing that can break.
     
  2. RobRoySyd

    RobRoySyd Member

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    It's only 4.5mm thick but nailed and caulked in place.
    I'm curious though as to how one could punch a hole in it. I know it can be cut using a shear. I just score and snap it myself and if needed trim it up with a diamond wheel.
     
  3. clonex

    clonex Member

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    nail punch or claw on hammer.
     
  4. psychobunny

    psychobunny Member

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    There are circular punches that work similar to a shear, just need to either be on the edge of the material or ou need to figure out how to support the back in the correct position is such a way that it will oppose the punching force
     
  5. RobRoySyd

    RobRoySyd Member

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    I own a hand punch set. Bought it to punch holes in the "L" bar for a suspended ceiling I was installing. I'm pretty familiar with using punches for sheet metal and wad punches for leather.

    I know of the "trick" of making a hole in this kind of sheet using a hammer or small holes using a punch. My understanding is to pull this off ideally the material needs to be damp otherwise it's likely to crack or shatter.

    In my case I needed a 79mm hole with a tight tolerance as it was to fit snap-in plastic vents. Even with the sheet on the ground a diamond core drill seems the best way to get the job done.
     
  6. cbb1935

    cbb1935 Guest

    Hammer Drils normally have more torque than a standard drill/impact driver
     
  7. miicah

    miicah Member

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    Doubt it, however neither Ryobi or AEG list the torque specs for their hammer drills.

    But I don't think either brand would have more than 220nm of torques.
     
  8. mmBax

    mmBax Member

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  9. miicah

    miicah Member

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  10. Zee

    Zee Member

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    I've got the Bosch blue stuff, There is a pack with the lower variant of the brushless hammer drill, 2 x 2aH batteries, charger and the brushless impact driver for $400 from bunnings. I've also got the higher end "Destroyer", which is fantastic, I use it for work, and it is awesome.


    Whatever you get, the hammer is worth it -- you never know when you need to drill a hole in brick/concrete/tiles to mount a picture, soap holder/whatever. Having good quality tools available makes you far more willing to do little bits and pieces around the house.
    Z...
     
    Last edited: Feb 23, 2017
  11. mmBax

    mmBax Member

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    Correct, brushless impact driver, the same as what you linked?
     
  12. mtma

    mtma Member

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    Impact drivers are designed only for driving screws - they actually bear more similarities with a pneumatic rattle gun than a hammer drill.



    If you want to make holes in rocks, the impact driver will not be particularly effective compared to a hammer drill - and yes of those the pneumatic type has a much more effective hammer than the cam action. (but generally neither are designed to drive screws)
     
    Last edited: Feb 23, 2017
  13. Supplanter

    Supplanter Member

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    Last edited: Feb 24, 2017
  14. ShadowBurger

    ShadowBurger Member

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    so i did some research 'just because' and everywhere I read showed "rotary hammer drills" as being a piston-type mechanism that hammers real good, but doesn't spin. Is that correct?
     
  15. StratosFear

    StratosFear Member

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    Most (all?) have an option to spin and hammer or just hammer, or just spin
     
  16. miicah

    miicah Member

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    idk, I have a corded Ozito hammer drill (it was my first drill and I thought the same as OP, I might need it) and in 4-5 years I've used the hammer function once. So now it sits for the (very) odd time I need a hammer.

    So my vote is either cheap corded hammer drill or hire an SDS drill for the day.

    Yes I linked an impact driver, to show it's torque figures. cbb was trying to say that hammer drills would have more torque than the drill I linked.
     
  17. rainwulf

    rainwulf Member

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    You can either have them spin or not. Without the spin function you can use SDS chisel bits which are actually flat like a chisel, ideal for removing tile.

    You only need the rotary action when drilling concrete so remove the dust so the bit doesnt get bound up.

    That's how you know you have a real hammer drill, when you can turn the drilling action off and the thing still hammers. Pun intended.
     
  18. clonex

    clonex Member

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    got one of those hitachi triple hammer impact drivers few weeks ago, iirc its around 270nm as well.. fark me does it drive tek screws/patten screws 50-150mm, 50-150mm insulated roof screws in better.
    Has twisted one R2 square drive bit so far:thumbup:
     
  19. RobRoySyd

    RobRoySyd Member

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    Just got back from a quick little job and have to confess I was wrong. The hammer action option on these cheap cordless drills is useful.

    Only needed to drill 4x 5mm holes about 30mm into common brick and it got the job done. Nowhere near as fast as the corded Bosch professional but that things is heavy and this was in an awkward spot.
     
  20. SimParadox

    SimParadox Member

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    Your post inspired to me to give a hammer drill a try for removing the tiles in my bathroom. Will update in a week on how well it went.
     

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