Homemade Waterblock

Discussion in 'Extreme and Water Cooling' started by Mo-Girks, Sep 16, 2007.

  1. Mo-Girks

    Mo-Girks Member

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    Heya peoples

    I've been looking at extreme cooling for a long time now, but money has always been an issue. Recently I've aquired 2 peltier units.
    a 245W Potted Peltier and a 437W Qmax Peltier. Any peltier above 80W will not work on air cooling. So I need to water cool it.

    I've previously had a gigabyte Watercooling kit and still have the parts around for it. I know that the parts are not upto dissappating over 200W of heat, but will work for a test.

    I have modified the origonal waterblock to suit the peltiers (http://mo-girks.com/gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=3235) and may still choose to use it to test with. I'm not sure how well it will handle > 200W (with the appropriate radiator/pump

    Doing a lot of research through many extreme cooling forums I've found that only one comercial waterblock is capable of handling the 437W peltier. So i decided to make my own.

    I've placed all the photos into my new modding Gallery. I've been modding for years, but only just finally uploaded my latest mod. Will upload more mods when I have time.

    I'm only going to post links to the pics so the page loads quicker.

    Creating the block:

    http://mo-girks.com/gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=3547
    Here is the aluminium bar that I'm roughing the cooling plate, fins and upper case from. I've decided to go with Aluminium because we have the bar already, and copper is SOOOO expensive.

    http://mo-girks.com/gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=3557
    Here are the 2 main pieces of the waterblock ready to be milled. The larger piece is the top of the waterblock, and the smaller will have the fins.

    http://mo-girks.com/gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=3467
    Here is a test run on a scrap piece, trying out a new tool created to make groves for the fins. I've decided to set the fins at a 60 degree angle to encourage waterflow around them without creating dead spots where the water gets trapped.

    http://mo-girks.com/gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=3487
    Here I've machined the "fin block" to a flat surface on both sides, all ready for the fins to be cut

    http://mo-girks.com/gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=3607
    All the groves in one direction are cut, job rotated and ready to continue the diamond pattern. This takes an amazing amount of time, Soooo many cuts

    http://mo-girks.com/gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=3677
    Here's the completed diamond pattern, and the job is positioned for a 6mm grove around the edge to be machined.

    as you can see on the clamp I had a slight miscalculation, when a clamp is done up one corner of the slide will always kick up, I didn’t take this into consideration when I machined the diamonds

    I'm glad it was a cheap clamp

    http://mo-girks.com/gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=3572
    Completed grove around edge and removed some of the bent pins.

    I've competed the waterblock this evening. Uploading 200 mb of photos now and I'll update with the completed block tomorrow.
     
  2. 2cats

    2cats Member

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    Very nice

    Are you milling another piece of Al for the top?
     
  3. OP
    OP
    Mo-Girks

    Mo-Girks Member

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    yup

    I've just completed the waterblock this evening. I've got 200 mb of photos to upload, so expect more (65% atm)

    I've just got to water test it all...
    I tried with metho when I was cleaning it, and before I added any water seal and it didn't leak

    (66% done >.< sooo slow)
     
  4. link1896

    link1896 Member

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    did you use a 1mm x 100mm cut off wheel for the pin grid?
    ahh no I see the picture now of the cutter in image 2127.
     
  5. link1896

    link1896 Member

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    you need to find a scrap metal yard, copper offcuts for the size you need will be under 10 bucks. Well worth it considering the time you will have put into the block.
     
  6. RaptureTechOz

    RaptureTechOz New Member

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    Thats awesome mate!

    i wanted to also make my own block, do you think it would be possible to do something like this with an old haas? what did you use to make yours?
     
  7. OP
    OP
    Mo-Girks

    Mo-Girks Member

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    yea, I've been looking at the local steel scrap yards, nothing available yet though

    I've also been talking to a contact at BHP in the Illawarra, he has 100% copper as a waste product

    I have all the equipment to melt down the copper and form my own blocks to machine up. Getting the material on the other hand is slightly more difficult

    /me crosses fingers

    (96% btw >.< )
     
  8. OP
    OP
    Mo-Girks

    Mo-Girks Member

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    here's the finishing photos for my waterblock

    http://mo-girks.com/gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=3747
    Finally setup the flymill and used it on the top of the waterblock. With this I am able to mill the whole surface in one step, rather than 6-7 like before

    http://mo-girks.com/gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=3797
    Then used an end mill to create the area for the fins to sit in.

    http://mo-girks.com/gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=3972
    Still roughing out, slowly getting wider and wider

    http://mo-girks.com/gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=3907
    Accurately measured and milled the top block with a smaller mill to decrease the curve in the corners caused by the larger mill.

    http://mo-girks.com/gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=3902
    it all fits \o/ \o/
    there is a 5.6mm edge around the whole box

    http://mo-girks.com/gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=3717
    10mm holes drilled in the corners of the block and a small 6 mm chan milled between the 2 input holes and between the 2 output holes to allow for waterflow between the barbs (in the hope that it will reduce pressure)

    http://mo-girks.com/gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=3822
    3 mm holes drilled and tapped around the outside edge to hold the op on, and to hold the peltier cool plate on

    http://mo-girks.com/gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=3732
    10mm holes tapped with a 12 mm tap ready for barbs

    http://mo-girks.com/gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=3967
    Alu bar turned to 12mm at the end and with a 12mm die I put a thread on it.
    it was my first attempt, and apart from the 5 degree missalignment I think it turned out well

    http://mo-girks.com/gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=3752
    Back into the lathe I turned the rest of the barb. All i had to do was part it off and clean up any dags left over. 1 of 4 complete \o/

    http://mo-girks.com/gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=3712
    here's all 4 of the completed barbs. For my first attempt at metal lathing I think I did ok. One barb has some slight chatter marks on it, but I don;t think it'll be an issue

    http://mo-girks.com/gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=3847
    So with the 10mm holes tapped I could test fit the barbs \o/ they fit

    http://mo-girks.com/gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=3772
    here's the top piece with all the barbs test fitted

    http://mo-girks.com/gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=3792
    I made a slight miscalculation with the "fin" plate so I had to mill in space for the rounded corners in the top block,

    http://mo-girks.com/gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=3917
    Due to the fine tollerances I'd decided to sand the sides of the waterblock on our linisher. This gives very strait lines. It's not as nice as a machined surface, but it's better than the origonal surface

    http://mo-girks.com/gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=3777
    Went and cleaned everything with Isopropal alcohol (found all the cuts in my fingers) to remove all grease/oil/random stuff off the metal. I then used the loctite 567 to seal all the gaps around the barbs, and on the base plate.

    while cleaning the waterblock, and before dismanteling it from the test fit, I filled the waterblock with Metho. The join between the top box and the fin place did not leak, it was only the barb screws that leaked. just to be on the safe side though, I added the loctite to the gap between the surfaces.

    http://mo-girks.com/gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=3807
    here is the completed bottom with the peltier showing. This is the 245w peltier.

    http://mo-girks.com/gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=3832
    here is the 437w peltier. I guess I won;t be using this waterblock with this peltier. It was the largest solid block of material I had at the time so I decided to use it.

    Since I can now cast my own aluminium blocks I can cast up a block that will fit this monster.

    http://mo-girks.com/gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=3927
    here;s the completed block without the peltier attached. I've added the tube to the top because I only have one pump. Tomorrow I'm going to leak test it for around 3 hrs or so to see how it all works...

    Whatcha think so far?
     
  9. link1896

    link1896 Member

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    Well done Mo-Girks. Given some copper stock, your work will again lift the bar around here, sadly there isn't too much diy construction anymore. I particularly love the hose barbs you made, 10 points for making EVERYTHING yourself bar the fasteners.
     
  10. OP
    OP
    Mo-Girks

    Mo-Girks Member

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    hehe thankya
    http://mo-girks.com/gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=3602
    That's the machine I used for all of the milling for the waterblock.

    as for if your haas can make it, with the correct tools and a little time for sure. bout the only hard bit was getting the 60 degree angle for the diamonds and making the saw to cut those groves.

    Give it a go, it's not as hard as it looks. With a little bit of planning and an eye for detail anyone can do it

    hehe thanks.
    I decided not to make the fasteners myself, I had them around and the project was sooo close to being finished.

    I've had the waterblock connected to a pump + res for all of today, without hose clamps on the waterblock barbs the unit does not leak :D

    I've attached the peltier between the waterblock and cool plate, now I just need to get a 250w PSU to power the beast. I'll look on e-bay to see what ppl have for sale. in worst case senario Jaycar has a 13.4V 40 A PSU for 160. That will run both the 250w and the 437W peltiers. Or I can get a bridge rectifier and an appropriate transformer (i think I may have one in my collection) and make my own, or even wind my own.
     
    Last edited: Sep 16, 2007
  11. link1896

    link1896 Member

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    I've the exact same drill mill. They all come from the same chinese factory with a million different importers stickers on them. Second hand they are about 1500 bucks.
     
  12. OP
    OP
    Mo-Girks

    Mo-Girks Member

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    we picked that one up for just over $1900, brand new with a box of mills & table clamps.

    Was fun getting it onto position though, all 360kg >.<
     
  13. link1896

    link1896 Member

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    the real bargains are the old engineering shops being liquidated on grays online.


    few weeks ago i watched an old bridgeport vertical end mill WITH tooling go for a couple hundred bucks. The issue being you need to organise pickup with a forklift, as its about 900kg.


    One could put together a very cool workshop for a few grand with vertical and horizontal mills, lathes, , etc, etc, the list goes on and on. No one wants a manual anything anymore, makes the buying cheap.
     
  14. alvarez

    alvarez Member

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    Thats a nice result, How long did it take you all up. I may also compliment you on your ahm.. equiptment. Having the right tools makes the job easier.


    BTW. No need for a forklift, Ive had to move a slightly smaller lathe with a chain block and trailer.:sick:

    Just looked more closely as Im planning on making my own block and barbs (cant get non plastic ones 'round here) And I must say its phenomonal work.
     
    Last edited: Sep 16, 2007
  15. danzel69

    danzel69 Member

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    thats looks very impressive, good work
     
  16. 2cats

    2cats Member

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    Excellent. The block looks really neat.
    Hows the flow with the 4 barbs? Does water move through the bridging tube at the same rate as the intake/outlet barbs?
     
  17. OP
    OP
    Mo-Girks

    Mo-Girks Member

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    link1896: Yea I agree, we also picked up a small lathe from a closing engineering shop, 3 ppl can move it, so it's a small beast

    with our mill we used a trailer and a block + tackle and some tracks that where capable of moving 8 tonne

    alvarez: All up it took 2 days of solid work... Hour wise... Ummm... prolly around 26 ish hours, including breaks

    danzel69: thankya

    2cats: I've only had the single gigabyte pump to try with, I'm looking at 2 pumps and 2 Rads going into one Res.
    to test with I'd blocked 2 of the barbs (virtically opp) and tested with the gigabyte pump/res unit.

    What pumps do you guys suggest? From my research years ago the ehinm was the way to go... Very tanky though, and very 240V.


    I really need to find my pictures of 3gen,
    3gen was a case mod that I did for a comp. The case was a Antec Lanboy, and in that case I managed to fit one of each of the 4X generation 3 consoles

    Gamecube up the top, PS2 down the side, Dreamcast in the front, Xbox in the middle, and a p3 800 as the host system. It was a self contained unit and all the consoles worked, and connected into a TV input card on the PC...

    /me digs through old photos on fileserver...
     
    Last edited: Sep 16, 2007
  18. link1896

    link1896 Member

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    pirtek and enzed both cary barbs, but they are known as "tails" to them. If you can't find a hydraulic shop, you must be 500km from woop woop
     
  19. dirtyd

    dirtyd Member

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    Myself and quite a few others use a Swiftech MCP655 (also known as Laing D5). It's been great for me, ran a CPU+SLI GPU combination pretty handily, and now pumps just through my CPU with plenty of juice.

    Great work btw :)
     
  20. OP
    OP
    Mo-Girks

    Mo-Girks Member

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    i've been looking at that pump, but have found vary little information about it
    hearing good news about it like that is a great help, ty
     

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