Huge emergency! How to get rid of rust?

Discussion in 'Extreme and Water Cooling' started by De_Cruelz, Oct 12, 2006.

  1. De_Cruelz

    De_Cruelz Member

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    Hey guys, a couple of days back my x1900XTX started artifacting in Win so I thought my pump was dying. I got the pump I ordered this morning and while I slowly took the WC setup and system apart, the barb from my Maze4 just sorta slided out slowly! It appears the barb connected to the Maze4 has totally detached itself :upset: It looks like someone just chopped it in between the block and barb itself. The water smells funky and obviously, there's some major rust going on there.

    Seems like there's a buildup of bluish stuff too but that could be the UV dye I used. Now, more importantly I need help on how to get rid of all the remaining rust. I haven't fully disassembled the whole cooling loop but it looks like there's some buildup along some of the other barbs too.

    My original Storm G4 is clogged and it looks like there's some black stuff stuck to it. It's not slimy or anything but quite hard instead. I had to slowly scrape some of it off but couldn't get the rest of it out.

    It's really weird as I never had this problem before and this is my 4th water cooling setup using mostly the same components. I replace tubes and clean the blocks everytime I reinstall it. Loop consists of Cathar's G4, Maze4, BIX3 and MCP650. All the barbs are brass as far as I know. Only the BIX3 looks a little different as it looks like its coated with Alu.

    Does anyone know of a solution I can use to get rid of the rust and unknown buildup? I need to do this quick as my water cooled rig is my main rig and I have a uni assignment due tomorrow! :upset: :thumbdn:
     
  2. Tekin

    Tekin Member

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    Hmmm.

    it would be tempting to ditch the maze block then...rust is one of those things that once it has started, then it's very difficult to stop.

    i'd recommend flushing the system for a few hours in each direction (just put it together, throw one end in a bucket with the tap running into it and let the water run out the other end into the sink.)

    you'll need to keep an eye on it so you don't suck the pump dry, but water is a fairly good cleaner by itself (particularly if you turn it around and push water the other way)
     
  3. OP
    OP
    De_Cruelz

    De_Cruelz Member

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    I think the Maze4 can't be saved anyway as the barb sort of rot itself and broke into 2 pieces. The barb inlet side has totally broken off from the threaded part which is inside the block.

    Thanks for the tip Tekin. I did try to do it manually for awhile with the BIX3 and the res. I could hear something like sand running through the BIX3 while I shaked it around. One of the barbs has got the black metal stuff as the one which clogged the G4.

    I'm just guessing but its probably the byproduct of the rust occuring in the loop? It's actually quite hard and I had to scrape it of the copper plate of the G4. Is there some form of solution I can use to run through the pump, rad and G4 to get rid of all the black stuff? It looks like my res has to be replaced too with all the whitish and black stuff stuck in it.

    Worst of all is my x1900XTX....it's been artifacting ever since. I tried to clean it with alcohol and letting it dry in the sun but no luck either. I put on the stock heatsink and its still artifacting like it was. Can barely tell whats on the screen :(
     
  4. eva2000

    eva2000 DDR1/DDR2/DDR3 Addict

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    ouch.. any pics ?
     
  5. Tekin

    Tekin Member

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    ouch, thats gotta suck.

    Had a similar thing happen to a 9800 a few years back (back when they were the equivilant to your x1900xtx. albeit no where near the same price!)

    i'd definately try cleaning it again with alcohol and then leaving it for a few days. check for any bulging caps or leakage. but otherwise i'm unsure. it may well be that it suffered major heat stress and damage from that.

    With regard to cleaning the loop, a lot of people recommend running a solution of vinegar (i'd recommend 50/50...though a lot of people run it straight). just let it cycle through for 15 minutes, flush it out, cycle a fresh set through, flush it out, turn it around, cycle, flush.

    see how that goes.

    otherwise, often pulling everything apart and cleaning them individually is the best way to sort out these kinds of problems.

    i don't know how easily you can take apart the G4's though. nor the mcp650s.
     
  6. OP
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    De_Cruelz

    De_Cruelz Member

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    Thanks for all the advice Tekin. I'll give it a go with vinegar to clean up the rest of the water cooling stuff. I'm guessing this vinegar would be some off the shelf vinegar from the supermarket?

    I'll check the 1900xtx again tomorrow. From what I recall there weren't any burn marks or expanded caps. Like you said, it could've overheated from the stuck loop. Hopefully more cleaning and drying in the sun tomorrow will fix it.

    As for pics and everything else..I think that will have to wait till the weekend. Due to several days downtime i'm extremely behind with work. :sick:
     
  7. phextwin

    phextwin Member

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    They are both very easy to take apart. A set of allen keys is needed for the g4. And you can use your hand for the mcp655. The knurled majigger on it holds the motor, and the impellor chamber thingo together.
     
    Last edited: Oct 13, 2006
  8. Bion1c

    Bion1c Member

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    Ok. As usual when something that used to work no longer works, look at what's different. I had warning bells going on in my head as soon as you mentioned aluminium. From the symptoms you are describing it definitely sounds like galvanic corrosion to me. info

    Having copper and aluminum in your w/c system is going to cause problems unless you have some mechanism to inhibit it. What is this dye you are using? Does it have additives to actively stop corrosion or is it purely ornamental?

    From the sounds of it you definitely need to pull apart all your gear and clean the metallic particles out of it. Refill the system with a mix of distilled water and an additive designed to stop corrosion (e.g. tectalloy from repco, or something like this).

    Got any pics of the damaged block? Would it be possible to fix it by changing the barbs?
     
  9. OP
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    De_Cruelz

    De_Cruelz Member

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    Hi Bion1c, thanks for your post!

    Fortunately, all the other water cooling components weren't damage. My MCP650 is still working too! Spent the whole of yesterday soaking some parts in vinegar + water and with lots of patience, I managed to clean all the black stuff out. The radiator is clean too after I setup the pump, res and rad loop with the vinegar + water solution. You can see the water turning black in the res and some of the black stuff lodged in the res so I knew the solution was doing its job. I've changed the water several times and looks like the black stuff is gone, water looks pretty clean.

    I'm not entirely sure about alu in the loop as I just "think" it is alu by the look of it. The barbs on the Maze4 and G4 look like alu but I guess not? Perhaps it's coated with something else that looks the same?

    My cooling solution consists of distilled water, Volkswagen coolant additive and several drops of blue UV dye. I've used the same solution for years without any problems and the only components changed from my first wc cooling setup is from BIX2 to BIX3 and Maze4 to Maze4 SLI kit. The new setup worked for me for over a year without any problems whatsoever until I upgraded to the X1900XTX and used just one of the Maze4 from the SLI kit which was early this year.

    Haven't taken any pics yet but I would say that the Maze4 is beyond repair. The threaded part of the barb is stuck inside and I don't think its removable. Also with the amount of rust and metal elements lodged in it...I think i'd rather not try :sick:

    Thanks again Bion1c for your post!
     
  10. Bion1c

    Bion1c Member

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    hmm could it be nickel plated? that would look pretty similar? Probably best way to work it out is to have a look at the spec sheet for the rad.

    If youre using VW coolant additive then it might not be galvanic corrosion since that *should* inhibit it.

    bizarre man so the block just basically disintegrated??
     
  11. Tekin

    Tekin Member

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    that's really quite odd.

    I'm inclined to think that it must have been plated with something (copper/silver/alu whichever) and that somehow cracked and started interacting with whatever was underneath the plating.
     
  12. wombler

    wombler Member

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    treat the coolant in the same manner as you would the coolant in a car. Go to Repco, Bursons or Autobarn. Get a radiator Kill-rust product, use and then flush your system. When thats done its job use a corrosion inhibitor or an off the shelf radiator fluid.
    Any rotten fittings in your system, replace for its just a matter of time before they fail and nuke ya system.

    Cheers
     

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