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HWBOT Discussion Thread Ver2

Discussion in 'Overclocking & Hardware' started by gazza30, Dec 4, 2011.

  1. nCrypt

    nCrypt Member

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    Just having a play overclocking my 5960X with the new Asus X99 STRIX Motherboard.

    So many options in bios, makes my old asrock fatality feel on the light side of oc features!

    Hmm, looking for an X48 board. Not looking for a Q9650 though!

    rex, reminds me of that german cop show where the cop was a dog named rex.

    ah good times.
     
  2. zeropluszero

    zeropluszero Member

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    You are, you just dont know it.
    Id still take a midrange P45 board though, better for quads.

    REX
    EP45T-UD3x
    EP45-UD3x
    All others
     
  3. nCrypt

    nCrypt Member

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    I sold my EP45T-UD3P not long ago. bought it off here for $5 and sold it for $70.

    Booted my E8400 @ 600 FSB, but never tinkered away enough to get it stable over 500 fsb.

    i have a QX9650 lying around, got it, day after i sold my EP45T :(
     
  4. Ratzz

    Ratzz Member

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  5. sskmercer

    sskmercer Member

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    Hey guys. Just a quick one, I want to Plastidip my Z170 OCF and also REX Extreme the issue is with the OCF is covered in lube so that's going to need the dishwasher treatment right? Oh with the dishwasher cool, warm or hot (60c) for the water?

    As for the REX that's covered in eraser. What I'm not sure about with eraser is taking it off and how careful you need to be or is it best to leave as is? Lastly on the REX as I've never used, it doesn't have the NB HS and I'm not going to use a POT for testing lol. The only air one I have is the D14 or maybe a H110, thoughts.

    Cheers
     
  6. ginger_nuts

    ginger_nuts Member

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    When I have dishwashed a board I have used just a normal cycle with drying. Since it isn't my dishwasher I cant tell you the water temp.

    But when washed in the sink i have the water so I can just stand the temp whilst tooth brashing around.

    Never played with eraser, but does it become more softer with temp ?
     
  7. headin2001

    headin2001 Member

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    Eraser should be easy to remove without damage but it's fucking painful stuff. Just take a little more care around the capacitors and little resistors so you don't break them. Done it plenty of time myself, and really hate the shit, but it does do a great job.

    No idea with dishwashing, never done it, nor needed to in the past.

    Try and find a heatsink for the NB, they get pretty damn hot on these and you need to keep it cool for pushing FSB.

    Do you have the Mosfet sinks from around the socket too? I used to have some old themalright ones but they have left me somehow. Maybe you can find some of them to do the job without a pot. I might have an old Swiftech WB somewhere too, not sure though, never used it and may have got lost in a house move over the years.
     
  8. OP
    OP
    gazza30

    gazza30 Member

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    Hey mate I melt the vas with hairdryer and wipe as much vas off as I can. Then wipe board again with metho to help remove greasy residue. Then dishwasher and metho again if needed.
    Just remember vas comes off plastidip DOES NOT come off 100%. Used it plenty of times and where it seeps under caps etc you just about rip caps off board getting it off.
    Newer boards will be easier to remove as new gen boards are pretty bare these days as far as caps etc go.

    Eraser is the easy one to remove get a chunk of eraser and use it help stick and lift off the stuff on the board. It can help to warm the eraser on the board also with a hair dryer.

    As for the NB cooler NB on this board gets pretty toasty stock let alone when pumping the volts for 600+ fsb.
    Few of the older temp monitoring software can report NB temps so see how you go with the pot with a fan on it. Otherwise just remove one off and old/dead board and mount.

    I'm sure if you don't have one someone else in the team is surely to have a dead board and HS to mount/ghetto mount
     
  9. Paulie_AU

    Paulie_AU Member

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    Technically there is nothing that cannot handle 60 degrees. I have previously sink washed with about 70 degree from my old hotwater system (stupid new one only does 55).

    I dont like your chances of successfully plasti after vas. Couldnt be a worse prep for painting when something like a paint stripper cannot be used.
     
  10. headin2001

    headin2001 Member

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    The LET I have used in the past comes off pretty easily. Sticks to some things but tweezers can help get a grip on it. Can't talk for plastidip though, but would like to try it cause this tin of LET cost like $25 and I don't think I'd get more than one or 2 full boards out of the tin (I did put it on thick though).
     
  11. sskmercer

    sskmercer Member

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    Cheers guys for the ideas and tips. Probably just better off staying with Vas one the OCF. As for the Rampage I'd like to take the eraser off as it should be basic benching easier which I'll need to do to at least get use to the board. As for the NB I still have the original HS for it and realise it does get toasty but I do have a lot of chips I want to get through (bin) and see what's strongest, so I'm thinking my normal water loop on CPU and the H110 should fit in there.

    This is the eraser around the socket,

    [​IMG]

    Also what's with this near the dimm slots, Normal/High/Crazy lol.

    [​IMG]

    Lastly what's the best bet for ram to try, I have my GTX2's, various PI's and I think the newer DDR3 I have wouldn't be worth it.
     
  12. headin2001

    headin2001 Member

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    If you have D9's, I hear they are best with come chips, Hypers with other. I have neither to try though lol. Only BBSE and PSC here.

    Do as Gazza said, little warmth with a hairdryer will soften it a bit, rest is sticking it in a ball till you get it out, much like dealing with BluTac. Slow job but you will get it all.

    I'm just binning on air for highest FSB at the moment.
     
  13. sskmercer

    sskmercer Member

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    I've gotta have some D9's around here somewhere if not i'd be a little surprised lol.

    Taking off the eraser probably wont be that bad TBH, I think I just to be careful that it doesn't pull a little resistor out or something similar.

    That's the plan BIN for highest air/water FSB (I have some great chips anyway) and go from there. Just more bloody OS's to build argh..
     
  14. Chilli-Man

    Chilli-Man Member

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    Very nice. Let us know how it goes. Funnily enough, I've also got plasti-dipping a REX on my list of things to do this weekend. :thumbup:
     
  15. headin2001

    headin2001 Member

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    I smell a plastidip clock-off coming!!!!! Socket 775 edition.
     
  16. OP
    OP
    gazza30

    gazza30 Member

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    Mine is not real fussy on ram but seems to really like my Kingston Hyper and BBSE kits . also Gskill Pi C6 kit
     
  17. ginger_nuts

    ginger_nuts Member

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  18. macsbeach98

    macsbeach98 Member

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    Hey Scott did you get a heatsink for your Rex.
    You are welcome to this one I have got 2 boards and one is stuffed.
    The only thing is I will be keeping the NB waterblock for my other one but I have got the heatsink for there as well as the mosfet heatsink its a complete unit.
    http://imgur.com/Pq3UOPQ

    Edit: I see now you have got the original.

    Those copper heatsinks sticking out of the eraser on yours are they glued on if so you will have to get them off to put the original heatsink on.

    The 775 boards I have got include

    Rampage Extreme
    Rampage Formula
    P5E3 Pro
    P5Q3 wifi Deluxe
    Commando
    P5WDH
    EP45-UD3P
    EP45T-UD3R
    EP35-DS4
     
    Last edited: Jun 6, 2016
  19. ginger_nuts

    ginger_nuts Member

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    Hay when it comes to z170 boards and OC'n non K CPU's. Is there a list of boards that can not ? Also is OC the memory done on the board or CPU ?

    If the CPU, would it be linear i7>i5>i3 ?
     
  20. zeropluszero

    zeropluszero Member

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    Any board that is worthwhile to overclock, should have an older bios that you can overclock k-sku on.
    memory will be overclocked simultaneously, so you need to watch where you're setting it.
     

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