Hypercube Evolution 3D Printer

Discussion in 'Hobby Engineering' started by aXLe, Jun 21, 2017.

  1. aXLe

    aXLe Member

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    I'm about to embark on a build of a Hypercube Evolution printer - a design by Scott_3D available here on Thingiverse.

    The Hypercube Evolution is itself a re-design of the excellent Hypercube by Tech2C.

    My printer will have a print volume of 400mm x 350mm x 350mm - quite a large volume! With the width of the bed at 400mm, I wanted a design with dual Z-Axis leadscrews (left and right) for stability of the platform, and the Hypercube Evolution offered that.

    With my wide X axis, I also wanted 10mm linear rods, and that is where the standard design was not quite up to scratch in that the standard offering was 8mm rods spaced at 45mm centres, with an option to use 10mm rods and bushes by means of an adapter. The adapter allows the 10mm bushes to fit into a carriage designed for LM8UU bearings, whereas I wanted to be able to use IGUS LM10UU equivalent bearings on my X rails.

    As I knew I would be making modifications to several parts, I actually started by redrawing each and every component, taking measurements from the STL files so as I had all the parts in CAD - this was many hours work!

    Then I set about updating the X Carriage and a number of other components to make it all work together nicely.

    This is the result - my version of the printer I will be building :

    [​IMG]

    I've also spaced the 10mm X rails at 50mm rather than the standard 45mm :

    [​IMG]

    The updated X Carriage assembly with LM10UU bearings (I'll be using much lighter IGUS versions):
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I'm adding some additional members to the frame to allow me to have an enclosed split rear cavity. AC mains gear will be in the right side, and low voltage on the left :

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Y rails are 10mm, Z rails are 12mm. I will likely use standard steppers with couplers on the z axis rather than integrated leadscrews - slight loss of build height, but cheaper and gives me more options later if I want to swap out TR8/8 for TR8/4 or TR8/2 leadscrews. I'm also thinking of adding a stabiliser for the leadscrews at the top - a printed bearing housing or something. May not be necessary but the leadscrews is 400mm.

    I've started buying parts for this, and I'll snap some photos of the bits I've received so far, which include :

    • MKS SBASE control electronics - ARM 32 bit running Smoothieware
    • MKS 3.2" colour touch LCD
    • E3D V6 hotend, plus a complete E3D Volcano - I'll be making mounts for both for quick change (part of the Hypercube Evolution design)
    • Bondtech QR Extruder
    • 12V 400W PSU (hotend and fans etc are 12V - heated bed will be mains powered - 240V :) )

    Still lots to buy! Should be fun though. As I've now locked in the design, I can order all the 3030 extrusions plus the 2020 extrusions - can anyone suggest a good seller? I may get them out of China, but its almost 9m of 3030 and shipping will be rather pricey!

    Plus, I'm actually building 2 identical printers (I have 2 of everything listed above so far!) so double the weight.
     
    Last edited: Dec 15, 2017
  2. Agg

    Agg Administrator

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    Photobucket seems to have eaten your images. :( But an update on this one would be interesting..?
     
  3. oRiCLe

    oRiCLe Member

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    Nice one, look forward to seeing progress on this one!

    Sounds like she’s going to be a fairly heavy lass once all together! What are you thinking for the bed? For that size 240v for sure, love the 40 second heat up times for ABS!

    Having an original hypercube first thing I did was dual z bed mount, so worth it!, second one was carbon rods on the X, carbon may have too much flex for your setup but I would strongly suggest focusing on making the x assembly as light as possible if you want it to print anywhere above 30-40mm/s and reasonable acceleration and jerk settings, the cube suffers badly from ringing with the flex in the belts and inertia from the steel rods and the additional weight would amp that...alternatively some stronger steppers and 10mm wide belts could also help :)
     
  4. OP
    OP
    aXLe

    aXLe Member

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    Current status - most of the parts are printed/assembled - wiring is next up :)

    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Dec 20, 2017
  5. OP
    OP
    aXLe

    aXLe Member

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    Finalised my drawing for the acrylic rear enclosure and sent them off for laser cutting through Cottage Plastics - they did a good job. Assembled the enclosure this morning. Split rear compartments - right will be the high voltage AC side (PSU and solid state relay for the heater will go in there), left for the low voltage stuff - the controller etc.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    With the 2 rear covers in place - removable left or right (I'm yet to draw and print the retainers):
    [​IMG]

    On the bench to the right of the printer you can see 2 more pieces - they are the backing plates for the 2 compartments. I'll fit these into the compartments on standoffs, then the backing plates will have the various holes drilled in them to mount the various components - saves butchering the main front panel!

    wiring is next up - to try get the thing moving!
     
    Last edited: Dec 20, 2017
  6. OP
    OP
    aXLe

    aXLe Member

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    More progress - Yesterday I installed the PSU and control board on their own backing plates:

    [​IMG]

    Today I plugged in the XY and Z(double Z) steppers, and cobbled together a basic config for smoothieware - YAY! I was able to move the printhead around X,Y and the bed up and down (Z) using the touch LCD.

    Serious time will now go into wiring it all up - well in the new year anyway when I'm back in the office :)

    TO DO :
    • Finalise AC side - install combination IEC socket/switch/fuse in right rear cover - DONE
    • Design/print retainer blocks for the rear covers - DONE
    • Run all the wiring from the steppers to the control board - hidden as much as possible - DONE
    • Run all the wiring for the Y endstops - hidden as much as possible - DONE
    • Run all the wiring from the printhead, includes X endstops, heater cartridge, thermocouple, print cooling fan and E3D V6 cooling fan, inductive z height sensor - DONE
    • Install Bondtech extruder (design/print mounting bracket) - DONE
    • Mount a filament spool on the left rear cover - DONE
    • Install solidstate relay in right compartment and wire in a 240V heater pad and thermocouple (to be installed on underside of print bed) - run cabling through a cable chain - DONE
    • Run earth to frame and to print bed - DONE
    • Design print enclosure for touch screen and mount it (extend cabling, hide as much as possible - DONE
    • Run bowden tubing from extruder to hot end - DONE
    • Install Ethernet and USB jacks - probably on left rear cover
     
    Last edited: Jun 4, 2018
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  7. OP
    OP
    aXLe

    aXLe Member

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    Got some more done on the printer this week. Designed and printed a mount for the Bondtech extruder :

    [​IMG]

    Redesigned the mount for the optical endstops on the Y axis, and ran the wiring :

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Bit tricky running it down to the enclosure - at the moment I've designed and printed some little clips that hold a wire inside the 3030 and just ran it down that way. I may yet print a part to enclose it, but this looks fairly tidy :

    [​IMG]

    Wired the XY Steppers and ran the cables back inside the top of the 3030 :

    [​IMG]
    Again a bit tricky where it crosses the 3030 - the little clips help and I think it looks ok :

    [​IMG]

    Wired the Z Steppers (this is the underside of the printer) - again running it inside the channel of the 3030 and then along into the acrylic enclosure :
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    When its all done I will tidy the wiring inside the enclosure, but Y endstops and all the steppers are now wired, including the extruder :

    [​IMG]

    Getting there :)
     
  8. encode

    encode Member

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    Looks awesome! Wish I knew enough about 3D printing to be able to design and building something like that. Looking forward to seeing the finished printer and some prints :leet:
     
  9. OP
    OP
    aXLe

    aXLe Member

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    Designed/printed the spool holder parts to allow it to bolt to the rear cover :

    [​IMG]

    Outside of cover :
    [​IMG]

    Inside of cover:
    [​IMG]

    Then designed/printed the cover supports - to allow the covers to be fixed in place :
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Installed the covers :
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    The cover on the right appears a different colour as I haven't yet peeled the paper off the back - I've got a few cutouts to do for power etc (decided I'll install an IEC socket/switch/fuse module in the cover). Any cutouts/mods get fed back to my CAD drawings for the next one!

    Still got to finish wiring it up, but one step closer :)
     
    Last edited: Jan 12, 2018
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  10. OP
    OP
    aXLe

    aXLe Member

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    Not much done this week, but ticked off a couple of things.

    Firstly I installed an IEC socket on the rear cover with integrated switch and fuse :
    [​IMG]

    Next I designed/printed cable supports for the main cable to the hotend. One mounted to the printer frame, and one to the print cooling fan :

    [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]

    then I ran the cables down into the enclosure and terminated them - will tidy them when it is up and running :

    [​IMG]

    I also moved the Y end-stops to the other side of the frame (after realising the print cooling fan would hit them if I had them on the other side - whoops) and re-ran the cabling - this now runs under the top rear 3030 extrusion and comes down into the enclosure with the rest of the cables from the print head :

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Almost there!
     
    Last edited: Jan 19, 2018
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  11. thedealer

    thedealer Member

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    I really like how neat and tidy this build is. I've just about finished my original HC but I'm sure it will be getting a major overhaul once it's printing.
    What drivers will you be running on the mks?
    I want to upgrade my board and drivers but not sure if I go the mks 1.4 with tmc 21xx drivers or save a little bit and go for the duetwifi.
    Just not sure how much support there is for the duetwifi at the moment.
     
  12. OP
    OP
    aXLe

    aXLe Member

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    Thanks for the feedback :)

    Yeah my aim is to make this build as clean and tidy as possible.

    For the stepper drivers, I'll just use the ones that are on the board to start with (DRV8825) - there are headers there to use other drivers, but I'll see how these ones go first :)

    Hmmm - I should probably add a cooling fan for the stepper drivers.

    I certainly have heaps of space in the rear enclosure to mount other drivers if need be (if they don't mount directly to the main board).
     
    Last edited: Jan 20, 2018
  13. vasu.vap

    vasu.vap New Member

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    Wow! That's one of the coolest builds I've seen.

    Wish I got some of the skills in 3D design to real world building. Just started learning, though.
     
  14. OP
    OP
    aXLe

    aXLe Member

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    Thanks :) I haven't had a chance to work on it much in the past few weeks (I'm building it at work, and have been busy with other things) but I will update the thread next week as I did get a chance to install the 240V 800W 350mm x 350mm silicon heat pad, and am making up the drag chain link for the 240V power to the bed.

    I've also installed a solid state relay inside the high voltage compartment for the heat bed. Not much to do now - just have to finish printing the drag chain mounts and install it, wire it in, and modify/tune the config.

    Oh - I did also design/print a simple enclosure and mount for the LCD.

    Hope to be printing next week if I get a chance to do the above.
     
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  15. OP
    OP
    aXLe

    aXLe Member

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    Ok - finally had a chance to update this build thread!

    I installed the SSR (Solid State Relay) on a piece of DIN rail inside the high voltage compartment, and wired it up :

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Next Up, I installed the 240V silicon heater pad on the underside of the print bed, and ran the wiring through a cable chain I'd printed :

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Then I ensured that the print bed and the frame are earthed, in case the heat pad fails and the bed goes live(!) :

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    I designed/printed an enclosure for the LCD as well (has SD and USB slots on the right side and is tilt adjustable) :

    [​IMG]

    All closed up with a filament spool loaded, and a BuildTak surface applied (though they only had 300mm x 300mm in stock) - I'm still trying to work out the best surface to use :

    [​IMG]

    First Print! Note the redesigned rear cable support :

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    The finished product :
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    Except 3D printers are never really finished are they? I already have some upgrades lined up!

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    That's a 7" panel! the Duet is perfect for parking the printer in a corner with just a power cord running to it, and controlling it over the network - that's the plan (plus I have a second set of most parts so this one will one day have an identical twin) :D

    It's been a fun project taking this from a CAD drawing to a real working model - other than switching the MKS S-BASE control board to the Duet, I don't have many changes planned at this stage - possibly change the XY steppers to beefier ones for high speed work, but for now I'm just working at getting it dialed in. The 240V 800W heat pad is awesome - heats the bed real quick! It's printing pretty well - will post a photo when I print something noteworthy :)
     
    Last edited: Jun 5, 2018
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  16. thedealer

    thedealer Member

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    Was just thinking about this the other day.
    I only recently got my original hypercube printing but already want a dual z design and bigger print area.
    I must say I bought some of the chinese "buildtak" surfaces to try and they work a treat.
    Definately recommend trying them out and at under $10 they are worth it imo.
    Awesome build btw. Very neat design.
     
  17. OP
    OP
    aXLe

    aXLe Member

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    Thanks :)

    In regard to the Buildtak, the genuine one installed seems to work fine for PLA however I can't get PETG to stick to in, or at least Aurarum PETG. ESun PETG sticks far too well, to the point where I've wrecked the buildtak on my other printer (the little Robo3D that I used to print all the parts for the Hyper Evo). I tore a chunk out of the buildtak when trying to remove a part.

    I'm quite surprised how much difference there is with adhesion between Aurarum and eSun PETG.

    I'd been using kapton for PETG and may yet go back to it, but it's just a bit of a PITA to install (from a roll anyway - might try some precut pieces). That said, the kapton is pretty easy to remove - will be interesting to see how have the buildtak is to get off!

    I might try pick up some of the cheap "buildtak" and also some precut kapton. On the Robo for PLA I was using blue painters tape, but have been printing mostly PETG.
     
    Last edited: Jun 5, 2018
  18. SSJ4

    SSJ4 Member

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    Hahaha I am designing a custom case for my mechanical keyboard and was deciding how I was going to section the pieces up to print. Thought I'd check the forums and see if someone has a large enough print bed.

    How is it performing? are you taking requests? (commissions) it's 345x150mm ish not sure of the volume. But it's a 2 piece clam shell design. I could send the solidworks files?

    If not all good. Ill just section it up and glue it together after.
     
  19. SSJ4

    SSJ4 Member

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    Looking at your build is giving me flash backs to building a RepRap at Uni.

    Rebuilding all the parts must have been alot of work. Could you not have imported the STL's into SolidWorks? Sorry if thats a silly question, I work in Alias predominantly only just starting using solidworks again after many years off.
     
  20. OP
    OP
    aXLe

    aXLe Member

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    Yeah it was a lot of work to redraw the original parts (and only a few weeks after I had finished, Scott3D released the CAD!), but it was worth it for me as I knew I'd be making a number of changes. Working with STL files versus a CAD file is like working with a JPEG rather than a Vector Image - perhaps a poor analogy, but STL files are actually just a bunch of polygons and more difficult to work with. Having the source as CAD files meant I could very accurately modify the parts, then save them out again as .STL for printing. I didn't print any of the original .STL files - I regenerated everything from my own CAD files and printed those.

    Shoot me a PM in regard to printing the keyboard shell - its a work printer but I might be able to help.
     
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