Hypercube Evolution 3D Printer

Discussion in 'Hobby Engineering' started by aXLe, Jun 21, 2017.

  1. SSJ4

    SSJ4 Member

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    Nice nice. Ill shoot you a PM about my plans for the case mate.

    How much did it cost total for this printer? not including your time of course.
     
  2. OP
    OP
    aXLe

    aXLe Member

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    Good question! I haven't added everything up, and some things I was buying 2 of for the twin that is yet to be built. I used some expensive parts too like the Bondtech. Bottom line is that I don't know - will have to work it out some time.
     
  3. ochange

    ochange Member

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    Hey where did you get your aluminum plate from.

    Thanks
     
  4. OP
    OP
    aXLe

    aXLe Member

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    Finally getting around to swapping out the Smoothie board with the Duet 2 Wifi.

    Mounted the board on the backplane :
    [​IMG]

    Designed and printed an enclosure and mounts for the awesome 7" PanelDue touch screen :

    [​IMG]
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    2000C eh? No thermistor connected yet. Its a very nice screen and touch works very well :
    [​IMG]

    Next up the steppers. I'm swapping out the standard ones for higher torque, 0.9 degree step units. Out with the old:
    [​IMG]

    And in with the new. I had to extend cables re-terminate them and re-run them through the frame. They are probably 10mm taller than the old ones, but fit perfectly in the allotted space :
    [​IMG]
    Looks done, buts its not - needs to be wired yet. Piece of kapton to be applied to the bed as well:
    [​IMG]

    I'm still working on re-terminating all the connectors as the Duet uses different ones versus Smoothie.

    To do :

    • Re-terminate all connectors, and connect servos, end-stops, thermistors, fans etc to the Duet board - DONE
    • Swap out 180R SMD resistors for 100R resistors on the optical end-stops to ensure they operate correctly on 3.3V (Duet is a 3V3 system) - 50% (have to disassemble print head a little to get to the last two)
    • Braid and run the display cable under the frame - DONE
    • Check operation of the inductive Z probe on 3V3 (should be fine - its a 12V probe but Ive got a transistor in there to do level conversion of the output - should be no change required for operation on 3V3 vs 5V) - DONE
    • Finalise the Duet configuration
    • Test, test, test!
     
    Last edited: Feb 5, 2019
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  5. OP
    OP
    aXLe

    aXLe Member

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    Completed re-wiring the printer. I also rewired the Z steppers such that they are now individual connectors (I had them hard wired in parallel before). The Duet has dual headers such that the dual Z steppers run in series. I'll give that a go first up, and if I have any trouble with them in series (I'm running a 12V PSU) I'll try them on individual drivers as it offers that as well (it can even compensate for tilt my adjust them individually!).

    I've swapped the resistors out in 2 of the optical end stops - they seem to work fine on 3V3 without doing this, however I've read that they could be flaky so its a very quick fix to swap out the 180R resistor with 100R (I have hot tweezers!). The other two end stops are in the printhead assembly - will do these tomorrow as it requires a little disassembly to get them out (at least out far enough to swap the resistors).

    I braided the LCD cable and ran it under the frame, along with braiding and re-running the new Z steppers cables.

    With an initial config on there I was able to sort out motor direction and get X, Y, and Z to home properly - inductive sensor works just fine as I thought it would.

    I haven't tested the heaters yet (bed or hotend), but temperatures are displaying correctly. I'll fire the hotend up tomorrow and test the extruder, plus heat up the bed and make sure that all works, then I should be able to dial in all the settings (steps/mm, Z offset, etc) and run an autolevel pass over the bed before I try printing with it.
     
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  6. OP
    OP
    aXLe

    aXLe Member

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    Tested the heaters etc, and finalised the configuration. Updated the firmware as well, and its now ready to test. Didn't get time today but will try do a print test tomorrow.

    Duet support one end stop per axis on X and Y - can probably use 2 if I play around with the config, but for now I'm leaving the rightmost X endstop and the rearmost Y endstop unplugged (the dangling connectors in the photo below) . I'm pleased I have a cover that goes over all of this mess :D

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
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  7. Acey

    Acey Member

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    looks good Axle like how neat you've done it.

    quick question - where did you source your build plate? i've souced a couple of ali plates from local suppliers in Perth but the plates aren't 100% flat and need machining - no one in perth sell's mill / cast spec plate so i'm stuck at importing it by the looks.
     
  8. OP
    OP
    aXLe

    aXLe Member

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    Thanks - I really was chasing a neat build, and I think I've achieved it.

    Funny you should ask about the plate. I got this plate from a bloke overseas, and the Duet bed mapping function shows that it is far from flat. I've decided that I'll replace it, and got some quotes from Calm Aluminium for cast plate. I'll use either 7.94mm or 9.53mm I think. Here is the info they sent me.

    They can saw to size, or waterjet cut a profile. I'm going to use a kinematic mount system like this one here, or something similar. A 3 point mount with adjustment as per that last link or a simplified version.

    I'll have to draw up a plate to suit the Hypercube Evolution bed support frame, with 2 supports at the rear left/right (reference and roll adjustment) and a pitch adjustment centre front.

    I did say 3D printers are never finished didn't I? :D
     
    Last edited: Feb 11, 2019
  9. Acey

    Acey Member

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    Thanks for the info Axle - Marks page is very helpful as well.
    100% it never ends with 3d printers - always the next thing to to play with ;)
     
  10. OP
    OP
    aXLe

    aXLe Member

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    Looking at something like this for the new bed with 3 point kinematic mount - using ball-end thrust screws for adjustment, and tension springs to hold the bed in position vertically. These are the 2 rear mounts - one ball sits in a hole/cone,and the other in a slot to allow for thermal expansion :

    [​IMG]

    I'm yet to work out the spring placement for the front mount :

    [​IMG]

    This is a 7.94mm cast plate, which is what I'll likely go for - waterjet cut to shape/size.
     
    Last edited: Feb 15, 2019 at 4:08 PM
  11. Cpt Watermelon

    Cpt Watermelon Member

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    Those flatness specs of the cast aluminium are pretty slick. It sounds like its gonna cost a pretty penny.
     

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