Jaycar Delta 3d printer!

Discussion in 'Hobby Engineering' started by rainwulf, Feb 27, 2016.

  1. XR6DAn

    XR6DAn Member

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    Yes, I saw that, do the LMU88 make a difference? Most of the slop in my printer comes from the copper bushings. I was thinking of drilling the carriages out, keeps all the other geometry the same.
     
  2. grandinferno

    grandinferno Member

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    Yeah they absolutely make a difference. I don't get any shudder. That, combined with doing the Ikea Lack table (feet to feet) brace.
     
  3. XR6DAn

    XR6DAn Member

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    Sweet. I though they might improve the printer. Any chance you can share your carriage design? Cheer.
     
  4. grandinferno

    grandinferno Member

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    It's earlier in this thread somewhere as a Dropbox link. Give me a shout if you have any dramas. :)
     
  5. XR6DAn

    XR6DAn Member

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    Finally got around to making the new carriages - those linear bearings make a huge difference, really tightened up the printer. I did mod the model to insert the bushing for the adjustment screw, but other than that it was perfect!


    Click to view full size!
     
  6. grandinferno

    grandinferno Member

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    Awesome!

    Yeah I just used a soldering iron with some bushing things and pushed them into the plastic. Worked well.

    Thanks for letting us know!
     
  7. OP
    OP
    rainwulf

    rainwulf Member

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    So hows this printer going for people?

    I have discovered my bed is a bit warped, its making it hard to print decently large prints. Will fix it after i move.
     
  8. Mathuisella

    Mathuisella Member

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    in your gearbox...grindin
  9. XR6DAn

    XR6DAn Member

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    My bed is a bit warped, I calibrate it when it's hot, but can never get a consistent clearance. It'snot too bad though. I have never tried making something with a big footprint.
    I wonder if clamping glass to the top would make a difference?
    Also, that repetier firmware has auto z calibration, I was thinking of trying that in the future.
     
  10. OP
    OP
    rainwulf

    rainwulf Member

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    You still need a sensor on the head to actually do the z cal.

    Once the move is finished im going to check out getting some glass for the bed, should help.
     
  11. OP
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    rainwulf

    rainwulf Member

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  12. taswesty

    taswesty Member

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    I've put a glass bed on mine. It's made a huge difference. Don't have a Z sensor set up yet. That's next.
     
  13. XR6DAn

    XR6DAn Member

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    Any pics or info? How did you do it?
     
  14. grandinferno

    grandinferno Member

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    You'd just have to bulldog clip the glass to the bed and change your z-height yeah?
     
  15. taswesty

    taswesty Member

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    Yep, that's all I did. I'll try to remember to get some pix tonight.
     
  16. Mathuisella

    Mathuisella Member

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    yeah i got a glass bed on mine as well. Works wonders for print surface adhesion and base quality. Always super smoothe on one side of the print :p


    EDIT: If you use a glass bed, make sure to use really cheap hairspray and give it a quick light coat before every print, also when done a quick scrape down with a razorblade :)

    so i just have my glass plate upon the bed and then use 2 clips from officeworks to hold it in place. Makes for easy removal as needed.
     
    Last edited: Apr 13, 2017
  17. grrrr

    grrrr Member

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  18. OP
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    rainwulf

    rainwulf Member

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  19. mtma

    mtma Member

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    I think there was someone here that was using one of these heads. They're good for multiple colours but they don't mix as much as stripe (i.e toothpaste) if that is what you're thinking of doing. Multiple types of filament is not easy as the head only holds one temperature, so if you have two that require different temperatures one is dwelling at a much higher one than necessary that with quite a number of combinations results in it degrading in the head.

    I don't think any reasonably accessible head of this variety on the market actually has a mixer in it.
     
    Last edited: Apr 15, 2017
  20. CQGLHyperion

    CQGLHyperion Member

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    Purchased one of these a couple of months ago but only got around to building it last week.

    Worst build instruction manual ever!

    Not to mention some of the poor quality parts included.

    Took me forever to figure out what a nylon band was - Cable ties! Problem was the ones in the kit were so old they had turned brittle and snapped.....

    Had to tap out some of the brass items as they weren't done or done poorly. A few of my screws didn't even have thread on them!

    None of the plastic parts that are mean to hold nuts actually held them, they just kept spinning!!!

    Suffice to say with the help from this thread and a few other blogs on the net I was able to get it powered up. Then I get a max temp error!

    Figured out the screw holding the temp sensor on the extruder was shorting out the leads so sorted it out and finally got to calibrating and then printing.

    Second print ran flawlessly, although I am currently only using painters tape on the hot bed (silly me threw out the stuff that was on it thinking it was just protection)

    Taking the advice from here I have replacement bearings on their way along with a few other bits and bobs. Going to print out some of the gear linked in here as well and source some glass to use on the hotbed.

    Haven't designed anything yet but that will come once the printer is working to a level I am happy with.

    Still running the Jaycar supplied firmware so I might upgrade that once the new bearings are on.
     

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