Jaycar Delta 3d printer!

Discussion in 'Hobby Engineering' started by rainwulf, Feb 27, 2016.

  1. Butcher9_9

    Butcher9_9 Member

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    Thanks, for some rason then you said Gauge I thought Dial Indicator. . Seems really obvious now that you said it lol.

    If you print a mount our of plastic for the Gauge that would eliminate any shorts.


    Edit, I was thinking Dial Indicator, either way thanks.
     
    Last edited: Sep 10, 2019
  2. eviladrian

    eviladrian Member

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    Sydney
    I saw this video recently about a really cheap 32-bit controller board, and it sounded pretty cool so I went and ordered one:


    The physical installation wasn't that hard, I had to swap around the wires for the cooling fan as the plug was reversed for some reason, but everything else plugged right in.

    I tested one motor and it responded to commands, but once I wired up all 3 it had some really odd behaviour. It would move up and down but much further than expected, and any X or Y movement would lock the print head and graunch the gears. After some Googling I realised that I needed to pull out the jumpers from under the stepper drivers, as in the default configuration it sets some unrealistic step count.
    Once that was done, it worked better but still wasn't right. I measured the Z movement and found it was double what I put in. It sounds like this is a known issue with TMC2208s and the fix is just to halve the steps per unit in the firmware, so that's what I did.
    I had to try out a few different values for the extruder stepping to get it right. I thought it would be half the value in the 8-bit config, but it was actually 40%

    Finally, I kept getting a thermal runaway error whenever the part cooling fan started up. Either the fan blows too much on the extruder or the extruder heater isn't strong enough, but I've always found the temp drops quite a bit when the fan is on 100%. I just changed the allowed temp drop from 4 degrees to 10.

    Anyway, I've got it back up and running again and I'm doing some test prints. I'm still running the TMC2008s in legacy mode as I haven't got around to soldering the bridges yet, so when I have a bit more free time I'll do that and try out UART mode.

    I've attached my Marlin 2.0 config files in case anyone else wants to get one of these boards and hopefully save some hassle setting it up.
     

    Attached Files:

    CQGLHyperion likes this.
  3. CQGLHyperion

    CQGLHyperion Member

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    This is great as I just received a SKR Mini V1.1 yesterday. I'm dropping TMC2100 into the X Y and Z but leaving an original driver in the extruder.

    I also got a mosfet board for the hotbed as the mini won't do hotbeds directly.

    As part of this upgrade I am replacing the diagonal rods with magnetic ones, which has meant a redesign of the effector and X Y Z carriages. So I might be a little way from there. Also purchased a bed level switch meant for the kossels that it attached magnetically when you do a bed probe so also going to add that to the design. Too much offset when I tried the inductive sensor and also the fact I now use a glass bed it is useless.
     
  4. CQGLHyperion

    CQGLHyperion Member

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    eviladrian Can you print from SD card on the original controller?

    I am having no end of issues attempting to get the mini to use the controller SD card over the onboard slot on the SKR board.
     
  5. eviladrian

    eviladrian Member

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    I enabled SD support in Configuration.h, line 1735:

    /**
    * SD CARD
    *
    * SD Card support is disabled by default. If your controller has an SD slot,
    * you must uncomment the following option or it won't work.
    *
    */
    #define SDSUPPORT

    Then it just used the card slot at the front.

    I did spot these lines in the "Marlin-bugfix-2.0.x\Marlin\src\pins\lpc1768\pins_BIGTREE_SKR_V1.3.h" file, line 263:

    #ifndef SDCARD_CONNECTION
    #define SDCARD_CONNECTION LCD
    #endif

    It says you can define as LCD or ONBOARD, so I guess that's where you'd want to look.
     
  6. eviladrian

    eviladrian Member

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    Can I ask what slicer you guys are using for this printer? I started with Repetier because that's what the manual said, and used the built-in Cura version. It's pretty old, like version 3 I think, but it works ok.
    I've tried using more recent Cura versions but they never seem to work well, even when I think I've got all the same settings. The biggest issue is with retraction: if I disable retraction on Cura 4.3 it prints fine, but once it's enabled the filament just stops coming out after a few retracts.

    If I look in the gcode the retraction seems to work the same way, is there something else that needs to be changed?

    e.g. Here's Repetier doing a 3mm retraction, moving across then extruding 3mm before printing as normal:
    G1 F1800 X3.861 Y-12.219 E16.71190
    G1 F2400 E13.71190
    G0 F9000 X4.002 Y4.497
    G1 F2400 E16.71190
    G1 F1800 X4.002 Y12.503 E16.98548

    Here's Cura 4.3 doing the same thing:
    G1 X-4.883 Y0.175 E61.78574
    G1 F2400 E58.78574
    G0 F3600 X-4.883 Y-.29
    G0 X5.157 Y-.286
    G0 X11.03 Y7.897
    G1 F2400 E61.82731
    G1 F1500 X11.147 Y7.78 E61.83298

    The Cura one extrudes slightly more after the retraction as I tried to compensate with the Retraction Extra Prime Amount setting, but it doesn't seem to help.

    Does anyone have a known-good Cura 4.3 profile for the TL4100?
     
  7. OP
    OP
    rainwulf

    rainwulf Member

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    Im still using mine! I used it yesterday to print out some standoffs and some gears for a job. Still goes well with the repetier firmware. I have a feeling the bed isnt actually flat, and im starting to get some wear in the radial arms, but its still popping along fine and prints pretty decent quality parts.
     

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