JJJC's Subzero Insulation Guide (Lots of large images)

Discussion in 'Extreme and Water Cooling' started by jjjc_93, Aug 11, 2012.

  1. t8y

    t8y Member

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    didnt know it had fallen off, and i'd had it in storage for about 6 months before i finally got around to trying for RMA.
    so sticker was long lost by then..

    meh, it did 7ghz, i guess thats alright for a first, and likely only/last (for the forseeable future at least), foray into extreme AMD.
     
  2. idosillythings

    idosillythings Member

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    Do any of the really extreme guys ever set up dry nitrogen boxes? You could use one to run tests for many hours without any need to wrap the components. RAM and power components can then also be actively cooled.

    I'm actually pretty interested in the answer as I have built one previously for scientific purposes.
     
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    jjjc_93

    jjjc_93 Member

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    There are many components on a motherboard that don't necessarily like the cold so we don't want to cool everything. Ram can also coldbug at certain temps so we don't just want to soak everything in extremely cold temperatures.
     
  4. idosillythings

    idosillythings Member

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    A nitrogen dry box is not full of liquid nitrogen. These boxes are purged with gaseous nitrogen for an hour or so and then during use nitrogen in the box is kept over pressurised so air does not leak into the box (requiring a constant flow of nitrogen). This provides a very low humidity environment to the point where if built correctly there is zero ice formation in a liquid nitrogen trap after many hours.

    Typically these are used where expensive/high purity chemicals are sensitive to moisture. I don't see why a few feedthroughs couldn't be incorporated for cables and a liquid nitrogen dewar on top of the CPU.

    As an added benefit the temperature within the box is typically cooler than ambient. HDD/PSUs could just be located outside the box via a cable feedthrough so it would have to only really be as big as a mainboard.
     
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    jjjc_93

    jjjc_93 Member

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    And what if I need to swap a mainboard, or want to subzero memory or need to swap out other components during bench? Just doesn't sound reasonable for what I do. Nothing wrong with a quick vas + paper towel prep.

    No need to fix what isn't broken, especially when it's already simple.
     
  6. t8y

    t8y Member

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    at a guess, its far cheaper, easier, and more flexible, to just do it the way JJJC has described (which is the way thousands of other overclockers use)


    anyway;
    im actually surprised someone has asked this, rather than come in and asked "why not run the ln2 in a closed loop" like in every other thread like this i see...
     
  7. idosillythings

    idosillythings Member

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    I'm not trying to hassle the way you do it so I'm sorry if it seems that way, I'm just curious to see if anyone does it that way. I for one wouldn't want to spend that much time or cash on it but there are some people who might use it.

    A nitrogen dry box would be a pain to set up the first time but if you want the absolute best way to remove condensation that's the method I would use. Personally I think you could make it work including RAM cooling however swapping over components would give you an hour delay.
     
  8. SiriusDragon

    SiriusDragon Member

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    Handy guide! Although I think I'll have to use pure eraser as I want a 24/7 setup :Paranoid:

    Is that possible, using nothing but art eraser?

    Because I assume as long as every air gap is plugged it'll work the same...
     
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    jjjc_93

    jjjc_93 Member

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    Yeah you can do it with artist eraser. Reasons I don't are just because it takes too long, and holds in the cold so it can on rarer occasions cause cold bug issues if you're running ln2.
     
  10. SiriusDragon

    SiriusDragon Member

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    Ah fantastic, thanks for the clarification on that :)

    I don't think I'll be getting a cold bug at the temperatures I'll be running :lol:
     
  11. aeries

    aeries Member

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    dont you need a fan near the pot(on one of the corners) to carry all that condensation/evaporation away?
     
  12. zeropluszero

    zeropluszero Member

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    I had a request here from Junkdogg, a newbie to subzero overclocking who requested I show how I prep a motherboard for subzero overclocking.
    First, I'm by no means an expert, I started out with the same advice given to me by the friendly guys here at OCAU and have evolved from there.

    JJJC's excellent subzero guide here is the basis for my prep as you can see, but you'll see the slight differences I've made as you progress through.

    [​IMG]
    First off you'll notice I've covered my motherboard in liquid electrical tape spray (Performix Plastidip, bought from eBay). This is used as opposed to vaseline coating which JJJC has used in his guide. I started out using the exact same technique that JJJC uses, using $2 paintbrushes and a hairdryer to melt the vaseline a little. The coating of vaseline doesnt have to be too thick, just enough to waterproof the board. I'd like to stress that I am only trying the LET spray out, whereas vaseline, while messy is quick, cheap and works great.
    For CPU only cooling, I would coat the entire top half of the board down to the second or third expansion slot. If I am cooling a Graphics card as well, I will probably take the waterproofing down most of the board. I will remove all heatsinks, and coat the mosfets and around the PCH chipset, then generally put them straight on over the top.

    [​IMG]
    Next, I take toilet paper or paper towel, trimmed with scissors and force this between my ram slots, and into the unused ram slots with a butter knife.
    If using toilet paper, cut a single sheet into thirds, then fold each of these thirds in half twice, then force it into the slots.
    This is to fill the slots and prevent water condensation from shorting parts of your motherboard. With a pair of fine tweezers this is completely removable.

    [​IMG]
    Next I will use the flat sheet insulation I have and put the back of the LN2 pot's backplate and screws through it. I generally then place a piece of paper toweling over this and between the motherboard to catch any further water.
    the entire back of your motherboard should also be covered in vaseline.

    [​IMG]
    Next push the hold down screws through the motherboard, be careful here not to damage any traces on the back of your board.

    [​IMG]
    hold down screws pushed through, time for the top.

    [​IMG]
    Here I put a cut out piece of paper toweling on the lowest part of the board. This is used for catching the water that will collect here when the setup is torn down.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    next a foam gasket is cut to shape and fits over the CPU area of the motherboard. this is to create an airtight seal around the bottom of the pot and CPU area. I spend a good while cutting these gaskets out and fitting them to the motherboard and making them just wide enough to fit the base of my pot.

    [​IMG]
    Here the base of my Kingpin Venom pot. These pots come pre-drilled with a small hole at the base, where I have inserted my temperature probe with a little bit of thermal paste on it to seal it in. I then tape the probe in place.

    [​IMG]
    Here you can see that my gasket is cut that the base of the pot can easily contact the CPU. Having a proper mount that has an even thermal paste spread is critical.

    [​IMG]
    I use Gelid GC Extreme for subzero work, many feel it is the best thermal paste for sub zero.

    [​IMG]
    My personal recommendation on thermal paste spread.
    use some cheap stuff and mount your pot a couple of times to get a feel for the amount and pressure required to get a good even spread.

    [​IMG]
    Next I test the mount I have with the base of the pot and some hand-applied pressure.

    [​IMG]
    Looks ok to me.

    [​IMG]
    Mounting the top of the pot and the hold down screws.

    [​IMG]
    Next I wrap the whole pot in some paper towel (I've used chux in the past as well). Take two rubber bands and put them over the top of the screws, then wrap the paper towel around, then roll the rubber bands over the paper towel to hold it in place.

    [​IMG]
    Ram mounted, and a piece of the toweling cut how I force into the ram slots.

    [​IMG]
    Some paper toweling between the ram slots

    [​IMG]
    Mount a fan with a rubber band to hold it in place to blow away acetone fumes/LN2 vapor

    Thats it for my guide. I'll write up a graphics card feature another day.
     
    Last edited: Oct 10, 2015
  13. zeropluszero

    zeropluszero Member

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    reserved for vga prep
     
  14. JunkDogg

    JunkDogg Member

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    Thanks mate, that's awesome and another great guide to setting up boards.

    Will help for sure.
     
  15. Paulie_AU

    Paulie_AU Member

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    I just want to paint my board with that shit.....
     
  16. robbo2

    robbo2 Member

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    I tried the rubber band once after seeing this in another one of your pics. First hit of the pot with the torch and that sucker went flying!
     
  17. zeropluszero

    zeropluszero Member

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    haha, I've burnt a couple myself.
    you could try not pointing the blowtorch at them y'know. :lol:
     
  18. robbo2

    robbo2 Member

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    I've set rubber bands, paper towel, chux clothes, fans and those plastic dividers you get to place between the springs on the pot all on fire. Basically if it's flammable, I've burnt it with the torch by mistake.
     
  19. zeropluszero

    zeropluszero Member

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    are you just waving it around wildly? :p
     
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    jjjc_93

    jjjc_93 Member

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    Haha I've melted a couple of fans in my time
     

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