Jumping to Sony

Discussion in 'Photography & Video' started by Dark Orange, Sep 23, 2018.

  1. lonewolf1983

    lonewolf1983 Member

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    35mm 1.4 is my go to for environmental portraits and my general usage as well
    the sony 85mm 1.8 is a gem, every A7x series owner should have one
     
  2. nisstrust

    nisstrust Member

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    35mm 1.4 on full frame is my personal fav lens. I have the sigma art in sony e-mount and it’s renders beautifully!
     
  3. Deftone2k

    Deftone2k In the Darkroom

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    How do you find your 35 art on the Sony bodies in E mount? Performs like a native lens?
     
  4. humanrace

    humanrace Member

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    I've asked this before but cant remember. When bracketing on either the a7iii or r3, is it possible to do 0,+,+ shots instead of the more regular 0, -, +?

    My ideal setup is to find the exposure where it is ETTR without any blown areas and then have the camera do, for example, 2 shots at +3 (where the number of shots and the exposure difference is set by me). So some scenes might be 0, +3 and some scenes might be 0, +3, +3 etc. Ideally there would be a setting where you tell the camera what setting to change too (shutter/aperture/iso) when doing the bracketed shots.
     
  5. nisstrust

    nisstrust Member

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    It’s handles perfectly balanced on my a7iii with an L mount grip but not without. AF is very fast and snappy in both good and low light conditions. I also have a sigma art 135 in e mount and whilst that is good in daylight, very low light conditions it struggles with AF but eventually snaps into focus. The 35art also redeemed differently but with its own unique character to a canon 35L.
     
  6. Xang

    Xang Member

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    Your options are

    0, -, +
    -, 0, +
     
  7. OP
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    Dark Orange

    Dark Orange Member

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    Take a -,0,+ bracket at +1 EC?
     
  8. humanrace

    humanrace Member

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    Thanks guys. The reason why I dont like taking negative exposures is that I dont know what is blown. I can review it after the fact but then have these other exposures to deal with later on (cull). I would also prefer not to do anything manually for those few occasions I need I want to stitch images together.

    Curious how other people do it. How do you ensure you capture the entire dynamic range without guessing. And how do you find your '0' exposure (just using the camera's light meter?)

    edit: above obviously in relating to landscape photography
     
  9. Deftone2k

    Deftone2k In the Darkroom

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    Mate thank you that is the perfect kind of feedback I was after being that is the exact experience I have been having with the 135 Art! I didnt want to find that to be the case for the 35/50 line up as well as I love those lenses and were both high up on my list for the sony switch.

    At the moment im pondering 35 Art/55 1.8 and the 85 GM to finish up my primes for the switch.
     
  10. lonewolf1983

    lonewolf1983 Member

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    Histogram/liveview with settings on and see what looks dark
     
  11. OP
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    Dark Orange

    Dark Orange Member

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    Your requirements are obviously different to mine - for portraiture, I just expose for incidental light and everything is perfect. But when I am just "happy snapping", I find the camera's reflective light meter does an extremely good job of things and experience allows you to pre-emptively adjust EC for those times you know the camera will get it wrong.

    One thing I like about the Sony are the in-display "zebras" showing you the areas that are potentially overexposed. Couldn't just dropping the EC until they disappear do what you want?
     
  12. nisstrust

    nisstrust Member

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    The sigma art lenses are amazing. Sigma have come a long way from many years ago. I had the 55 1.8 and whilst very good, I just did not get along with the focal length. I much prefer any 50mm and at 1.4
    I’m a prime shooter also, I have a 21mm Zeiss loxia 2.8, Sigma 35art 1.4, Canon 85L 1.2 mkII, Zeiss Batis 85 1.8, Sigma 135art 1.8 and the Canon 135L on a metabones mkiv. I’d like to compare the Sony 24G 1.4 vs Loxia 21, Canon 35L mkII with metabones vs 35art and the Sony 50 1.4 vs Sony 55.
     
  13. humanrace

    humanrace Member

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    Thanks guys. I completely forgot about the benefits of liveview/EVF - I'm coming from a 5D2 and although it was the first DSLR to have liveview I never got into the habit of using it!

    Im getting really particular here, but how accurate is the EVF/live view zebras/histogram? Any chance it has RGB histogram?

    I ask because canon's stock histogram is based on the JPG thumbnail and not very accurate. It wasn't until I started using magic lantern did I realise this. (TBH it is probably an unnecessary level of detail, either way its going to be much better than what canon has to offer atm lol)
     
  14. Deftone2k

    Deftone2k In the Darkroom

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    Indeed I love the art series. In Canon mount I have the 24/35/50/85 and I have the 135 in E Mount now.

    That is some great feedback, the 55 1.8 really appeals to me size wise for when I am doing destination weddings, as does the 85 1.8.. but I am thinking my travel kit may end up being 16-35 GM + 24-70 GM + 85GM and maybe a wide prime. So much to consider!

    As for the 50, I'm a bit torn whether to go the 50 Art as I have had a play with the Zeiss 50 1.4 recently and it was a dream!
     
    Last edited: Nov 27, 2018
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  15. lonewolf1983

    lonewolf1983 Member

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    Unfortunately its a similar story with the embedded JPG for the histogram, I've found it pretty accurate.
    Tended to under expose to protect the highlights, then boost in post/shadows as required, the latest Sony stuff is about as close to ISO invariant as you're going to get.
     
  16. Modafroman

    Modafroman Member

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    So after whinging about this for years, finally pulled the trigger on an A7RIII because of all the good Black Friday sales. Consolidating my camera kit due to size and weight, for travel.

    Bought the Samyang 35mm F2.8 as a travel combo, and the Metabones adapter to adapt my Canon 24-105mm, 17-40mm and Sigma 50mm F1.4 (old version). Also grabbed a Godox V860II flash. Fun fun!

    I deliberated on the Samyang for ages, but it was half the price of the Sony, a little smaller/lighter and supposed to be better optically. If only there was a nice small 35mm F2. Now pondering about any other primes. Will see how my Sigma 50mm F1.4 (old version) goes on the adapter, otherwise the Samyang 50mm 1.4 looks tempting...
     
  17. OP
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    Dark Orange

    Dark Orange Member

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    OK, used the camera in anger today for a portrait shoot, with the 100mm f/2.0 - Some observations:

    The buffer and write speed is so much better than the 5Dii, even on basic 'Extreme' cards.

    So many buttons. I have assigned a couple of the custom buttons and while I do remember which button does what, it is difficult finding them while looking through the viewfinder. I also kept hitting the video record button by accident, but stumbled upon a menu setting tonight that I think turns it off while not in video mode. And while on the subject of menu systems, I am not a fan of the linear style where you have to skip through pages and pages (...and pages and pages) of setting options to find the one you want. For a camera so complicated, a heiarcal system would be so much easier.

    The eye focus seemed to work OK, but not continuously for some reason.

    As for the results, a lot of the shots had motion blur, and I suspect the combination of the a rainy day, lack of tactile shutter feedback, lighter camera, and shakier hands from being hungover was part of the cause although the super high res showing issues my 5D-II could only dream of noticing was probably more of a factor.

    But to be realistic, it may be because I have been using the same camera for the last 10 years and I could easily be saying the same things if I'd bought an EOS-R.

    I have another shoot tomorrow, so armed with what I picked up today I will pay more attention to keeping things steadier and hopefully I'll get to try some more lenses.
     
    Last edited: Dec 8, 2018
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  18. Xang

    Xang Member

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    Sounds obvious but were you in AF-C while using eye-AF? Eye-AF still works in AF-S but the box disappears after locking focus and it loses most of its utility.
     
  19. Deftone2k

    Deftone2k In the Darkroom

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    I still dont understand the qualms with the menus either, I setup my custom menus on all my cameras so barely ever have to go back into the regular menus? Early stages yes.. when you find new things to add but with so many options its rather excellent. I just wish they did the write to two cards simultaneously thing better in the menu.. im always like umm is it right? Haha

    And indeed sounds like shooting AF-S not AF-C for eye focus. Definitely need to shoot AF-C to get the most out of it.
     
  20. lonewolf1983

    lonewolf1983 Member

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    the IBIS will help a lot but yes a 42mp sensor is pretty demanding, just up your shutter speed a bit and should be fine
    I think the mk3 has memory options to be able to save your use cases - e.g. one for ambient and one for flash for example

    And yes disable the video record button or re-assign to something else
     

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