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[WORKLOG] Lian Li V3000 Plus | Hardline

Discussion in 'Extreme and Water Cooling' started by QuinRiva, Nov 27, 2023.

  1. QuinRiva

    QuinRiva Member

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    I'm migrating from my venerable TJ07 into a new case, and putting together my first hardline build. So thoughts & advice would be much appreciated.

    One of the main issues with my current build, is that there is substantial galvanic corrosion and some sort of leakage. I'm pretty certain that everything is Nickel/Brass/Copper, and yes I know that Nickel copper will still form a galvanic cell, but the amount of crap in the system seems excessive. I have used some coolant in the past, but due to some weird leak, I've mainly just been topping up with distilled water.
    Gunky water.jpg
    [​IMG]

    The leak issue - this confuses the crap out of me, I'm topping up like 50-100ml every few months. I've run coloured coolant, wrapped everything in paper towel, and then pressure tested - and the only thing that isn't airtight is the fillport on the reservoir. It's just hard to believe that so much water could evaporate out of that.

    Anyway, this is part of the reason for replacing just about everything in the build (combined with a bunch of components being 10+ years old). I'm basically just keeping the CPU block and the pre-installed motherboard block. The CPU block should be easy to clean, but not sure how I would go about cleaning the motherboard block?

    This time I plan on using a proper corrosion inhibiting coolant.

    Some parts are coming over from the TJ07, some slightly used second hand parts, and some new.

    Some renders of the proposed loop below. A few things to note, the GPU block dimensions should be accurate, but I was too lazy to fully model it; radiators in the render are EK Coolstream Classic, rather than EK Coolstream; the V3000 model is missing the bottom side radiator mount plate, so the radiator appears to just be floating, but it should be in roughly the right spot.
    CPU Block below Hi-Res Render.png
    CPU Block.png Front rad connection.png

    Bottom rad connections:
    Bottom rad connection.png

    https://imgur.com/a/Nnxg0dS
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Nov 28, 2023
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  2. h2oxide

    h2oxide Member

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    Subbed for the nostalgia... mmm dat sweet late 2000s TJ07 meta
     
  3. Wacko02

    Wacko02 Member

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    that system is begging for a CPU upgrade! :lol:
     
  4. OCGear

    OCGear Member

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    Apparently Go Chiller has a 5 year operating lifetime coolant; the "Ultimate". Haven't used it myself, but I could smell the corrosion inhibitors in their standard formulation.

    Btw, you'll need to attach the Leakshield on top of the res, or some place with an air gap as I think it needs at least 100ml of air. (Also got some in stock in case Aquacomputer is still out of stock.)
     
  5. OP
    OP
    QuinRiva

    QuinRiva Member

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    I do game exclusively at 4k, so I'm not entirely sure the benefits are worth it at the moment (I'd need to replace the motherboard and RAM too). I know at lower res there's a more substantial gap, but at 4k?

    But for rendering, I mean, I guess I'm maxing it out....
    CPU usage.png
     
    Last edited: Nov 28, 2023
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  6. OP
    OP
    QuinRiva

    QuinRiva Member

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    Ended up ordering it from Germany, I couldn't find a local source for a waterblock for my Zotac RTX 4090, so I was already paying the $180 shipping :upset:
     
  7. OCGear

    OCGear Member

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    Funnily enough... I did order in a 4090 for the Zotac, but I got sent an MSI unit instead. The challenges of being far away from the rest of the world.
     
  8. juzz86

    juzz86 Member

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    I initially looked at the specs and thought the same as Wacko, but after pondering it a bit I don't reckon it'd be at all bad in 'real' usage.
    A 5800X3D would plug straight in (no new board or RAM) and sort any low-99% issues you were having - I noticed a little jump (~5-9FPS) overall coming from a 3700X, but it was the 'smoothing' of the FPS trendline that was the clincher - 95% of the troughs were gone. In ARK especially.

    I'm at 3440 though, so not quite 4k.
     
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  9. MAdMungo

    MAdMungo Member

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    One thing to check regards the slow leak is the radiators. I used to have a pair of old 240 rads and one of them developed a pinhole leak from one of the fan screws butting up against one of the tubes. I suspect it was caused by vibrations in the machine over the 5-6 years it was in use, as it was about 6 ish months before upgrading that I too was filling my res every 3 weeks.

    Regards your loop, I would run the output of the gfx card through the top rad before going into the cpu/vrm cooler.
     
    Last edited: Nov 28, 2023
  10. OP
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    QuinRiva

    QuinRiva Member

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    It's a bit tight, but I should have enough room at the top of the reservoir (provided I only half fill the reservoir).

    Leakshield.png
     
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  11. OP
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    QuinRiva

    QuinRiva Member

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    Soooooooooo many fittings:
    Fittings.jpg
     
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  12. OP
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    QuinRiva

    QuinRiva Member

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    Finally an update!

    Cleaning
    Plastic cover removed from the motheboard, exposing the block - 16 screws!
    20240409_112425.jpg

    Disassembled the mobo block - weirdly not a lot of (visible) build-up, which is great because this would have been a bitch to clean. I scrubbed it and got a bit washing out, but given the gunk was copper in colour, it's a bit hard to see.
    20240409_114805.jpg
    20240409_114902.jpg

    The acetal was much easier to clean as the gunk was clearly visible:
    20240409_135918.jpg

    Forgot to take a photo of the CPU block - but the underside of the jet plate was packed full of gunk.

    Here's the CPU block and mobo cleaned and reassembled. I cleaned dust from the chipset fan too.
    20240409_150411.jpg

    Reassembled the Velocity CPU block - I forgot that I had some Themogrizzly Hydronaut and ended up using some Artic Silver 5. Wondering if I should disassemble and re-apply the better paste?

    20240409_155502.jpg
     
  13. OP
    OP
    QuinRiva

    QuinRiva Member

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    GPU Block Assembly
    This thing weighs a tonne - Alphacool Core GeForce RTX 4090 AMP with Backplate
    20240409_160112.jpg

    Retention bracket removed from card:
    20240409_161906.jpg
    20240409_161902.jpg

    Board opened up:
    20240409_162216.jpg

    Underside of the Alphacool block:
    20240410_095755.jpg

    Comparison of thermal pads between the Zotac air cooler and the Alphacool waterblock - weirdly, there were no pads for the top of the coils - should I be concerned?
    20240410_101025.jpg

    Although there was one additional pad for this chip:
    20240410_101824~2.jpg

    Hey look I found the thermogrizzly!
    20240410_102450.jpg

    Paste applied
    20240410_102720.jpg


    The backside had loads of pads though - weird given that the Zotac had bugger all on the backplate:
    20240410_104955.jpg
    20240410_110706.jpg


    And making sure that I removed all the plastic!
    20240410_111231.jpg

    Alignment as a bit of, so had to loosen the retention screws a bit and adjust
    20240410_112305.jpg

    Fully assembled:
    20240410_113020.jpg
    20240410_113002.jpg
     
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  14. OP
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    QuinRiva

    QuinRiva Member

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    Assembling the tubing
    Not sure how I screwed up this dimension - but I must have had the radiator at the wrong height? I had to use a 41-69 telescopic fitting instead of the 22-31 telescopic fitting.
    20240410_160751.jpg

    Model for comparison:
    Screenshot 2024-04-16 094039.png

    I spent ages trying to find the 41-69 fitting for the CPU, only to realise I had used it above - so had to improvise:
    20240410_160819.jpg

    The model was also a tad off on the height difference between the CPU block and the mobo block - CPU block was apparently 2.5mm taller than the Mobo block, so I would need to adjust by adding a 7.5mm extender and a 10mm extender to make them the same height. I think the mobo model is missing the lip of the block attachment, which means that they are actually the same height.
    Screenshot 2024-04-16 095138.png

    20240416_095330.jpg

    Main fittings in place
    20240410_160827.jpg

    I picked up some nice corsair tubing on the cheap ($9 for 3m) so am trying that out. It certainly cuts much more smoothly, it isn't as brittle when reaming the ends - but being matte white, it's really easy to scuff.

    Not a perfect run here, but I always new this would be tricky - it looks like it's a single bend, but it's actually a bend and twist (two bends)
    20240410_193723.jpg

    The other tricky bend was from the outlet of the reservoir to the front radiator - again it looks like a single 45 degree bend, but it's actually bending in three dimensions.
    20240411_141053.jpg

    I didn't like the leakshield being obscured by the the pipe in front - so I made this contraption - not exactly straight:
    20240411_164536.jpg

    Tried re-bending it a bit - a bit straighter

    20240411_165731.jpg

    But there's bit of flex between the pipe, the fitting and the reservoir mounting
    20240411_165747.jpg

    Realised I hadn't modelled in a drain port - so added that in
    20240411_173300.jpg
     
  15. OP
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    QuinRiva

    QuinRiva Member

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    Leak testing!
    I ran it overnight and didn't encounter any leaks, but better to pressure test. I took the leakshield back off, and tightened all the fittings.
    20240412_075633.jpg

    Pressure at 11am
    20240412_105938.jpg

    And pressure at 3:30pm
    20240412_152300.jpg

    So happy that it's holding pressure!!

    Decided to replace excess soft tube in the bottom of the case with a quick connect - this way I can drain easily without having 50cm of extra tube just lying around.
    20240413_130301.jpg
     
  16. OP
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    QuinRiva

    QuinRiva Member

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    Final system prep
    I ran some Go Chiller Prep-Cool - I'm not entirely sure this was necessary, but really wanted to make sure that there was no gunk in the system. Ran this for 10 hours, drained the system, then added deionised water and ran overnight.
    Screenshot 2024-04-16 102257.png

    Drained the system, now it's time to add the final coolant - I don't want anything staining or gunking up the system, so just running clear.
    20240415_223904.jpg

    I was surpised that it started going cloudy within about 30 seconds of adding it to the reservoir, before I even switch the machine on to start circulating things? Also, as soon as I turned the machine on it really started foaming. I figure this would clear up over time.

    Ohhhhhh so wrong...... I turned the machine off after running for a couple of hours, and this is what it looked like in the morning:
    20240415_084639 (1).jpg
     
    Last edited: Apr 19, 2024
  17. h2oxide

    h2oxide Member

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    There's no pic
     
  18. OP
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    QuinRiva

    QuinRiva Member

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    Image added above.

    Cabling
    This still needs a bit of work - I want to buy some custom cables. For example, I have a 60cm daisy chain molex cable for running the Octo, but a 30cm cable with a single connection would reduce the cable clutter.

    20240416_103123.jpg

    8 pin is fine, but I don't have red cabling for the 4 pin.

    Comb on the 24 pin spreads things out a bit much - also need to replace this cable, as it's an extension and I end up with waaay to much cable on the rear.
    20240416_103016.jpg

    Sata connectors are all a bit loose - the cabling is quite tight on them, so they are being pulled a different angles:
    20240416_103055.jpg

    Rear is a bit of a mess still. I can't for the life of me figure out where to mount the Octo, maybe just double sided tape?
    20240416_103240.jpg

    So much excess cables....
    20240416_103307.jpg
     
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  19. h2oxide

    h2oxide Member

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    If you're open to suggestions, modDIY cables are high quality and more affordable than the likes of CableMod.
     
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  20. OP
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    QuinRiva

    QuinRiva Member

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    Ran some benchmarking and I'm not happy with the temperature on the GPU (crashed within 30 seconds):
    • CPU: 33C idle, 60-70C under Prime 95 - I think this is pretty reasonable
    • Motherboard: 33C Idle
    • GPU Core: 28C Idle - 90C under Cyberpunk load
    • GPU Hot Spot: 38C Idle - 112C under Cyberpunk load (before crashing)
    Clearly something is wrong with the GPU mounting.

    I pulled apart the GPU block to clean the gunk - honestly it wasn't too bad, and it wiped away pretty easily. I probably didn't need to actually pull it apart.
    20240417_141002.jpg

    All cleaned up - really annoyed that Alphacool used adhesive to secure the in/out plate :( Not cool.
    20240417_144459.jpg

    Pressure tested for 17 minutes - no drop
    20240417_150135.jpg 20240417_151834.jpg

    Clearly the die isn't making good contact:

    I wiped off some excess thermal paste and smoothed out the remainder
    20240417_152753.jpg
    20240417_153407.jpg

    I also noticed that I missed taking the plastic cover off one of the thermal pads on the backside. Weird because I was counting them as I took it off to make sure I didn't miss any, and I even took photos to makes sure too. But all corrected now.

    Flushed the system 5 times - this is my bucket - it's actually quite blue, but looks grey in the red bucket.
    20240417_205725.jpg
     

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