Longterm project: Twin DNA

Discussion in 'Modding Worklogs' started by Bullus, Feb 1, 2011.

  1. Bullus

    Bullus Member

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    so been doing a build log of this on a private forum and as i am almost ready to put the motherboard on removable tray and fire it up i figure is about time i got it started over here too as this is the place where i got my first taste of computer modding (had been reading for ages before i joined up), so anyways here we go..... (see here for what i "started" with)

    inital concept idea: matching thermaltake xaser vi and xaser vi mx cases, big one housing 3 way sli + phys x setup (initially 3 480's and current 285, now changed to 580's instead) and small case holding watercooling stuff, saw a similar idea once with cut down case so thought worth a try with "stock" cases.

    evoled concept: an entire case dedicated to watercooling stuff is a great place to be able to fully realise the artistry and abstract beauty achievable with the sleek blending of metal, plastic and water. most likely will be retaining not much more than the door and top plastic panel off the smaller xaser vi mx


    Going to repaint both cases gloss black and run 2 watercooling loops, 1 green for nvidia for graphics cards (hopefully evga 580's with ek blocks and my current evga 285 with ek full cover waterblock) and other blue for intel (was going to be i7 920 but time passed and that became i7 950, just about to buy that and i score a i7 980x) and gigabyte UD9 motherboard. matching up this coloring scheme with my mcpc sleeving also, going green/black for graphics cards and blue/black for motherboard connections.

    got around to drawing up the concept for guts of little case and from where i draw project name.... (not to scale and idea in progress)

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    so yeah twin handmade homemade res with 2 tubes doing double helix around , 2nd larger acrylic tube around res' with unsealed top with plain water (probablely treated so as to not go bad, will have drain tap for this water also) with fish tank bubble thingy making bubbles go around the 2 double helix res. will case the body of this in a gloss black metal shell with hinged flap to be able to showoff guts /design , same goes for top, just below bubbling water line.
    the twin res will sit infront of 2 24cm radiators (1 for each loop) still deciding on what fans,
    will most likely end up building metal gloss black air flow dividers to better shape flow depending on how things work out and look

    (lol how things change.... you guys won't really get the evolution of my idea that took place early on as cleaning up posts alot, but leaving ideas that have been changed or modified so ya can get the general gist of it until i am caught up)
     
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    Bullus

    Bullus Member

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    ok so had a play around with google sketchup and think i went pretty well considering i didn't read tutorial ;)

    anyways here is a better sketch of concept (made res' little too tall and would pop out top of case :eh: but easy to fix before real thing)

    anyways

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    wanted to get this up for you guys to get real gist of build, need to work out pipes at bottom of res though and any things not lining up are due purely to this being advanced concept sketch.

    my first ever mdpc sleeved cable, probablely will end up redoing this cable and still gotta work out my "weave" but all in all i am pretty proud of it, (stupid 2 wires in 1 contact) wish i had started on one of the easier cables of my silverstone strider 1500w

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    want to try and get a braid with wires to sort of simulate double helix... worst case i unbraid em and go for straight sleeved wires. (still trying to work out how to braid 24 pin cable that goes to 23 pins...??)

    and while i have the camera out thought i might pop this up too. Not likely to be something ya would see every day....
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    gigabyte UD9, with intel i7 980x with stock intel heatsink (definately not the final build but had to test other parts) (Thanks again Vormulac, rbdirty and cysp, for the cpu, mobo and "test" ram )(gotta love the OCAU trade forums)
     
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    Bullus

    Bullus Member

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    current list of what will be going into this build will update as i acquire things, decide on things or cancel things.

    Cases
    Xaser VI - check
    Xaser VI MX - check

    CPU
    Intel i7 980x - check :thumbup: (better than planned)

    Mobo
    Gigabyte UD9 - check

    PSU
    Silverstone ST1500 - check ( so many wires, won't somebody think of my poor thumbs)

    Ram
    Geil 3x1gb 1333mhz - check (board test ram)
    Corsair CMP12GX3M3A1600C9 (3x4GB) Dominator (x2) -

    Storage
    OCZ vertex LE 100gb - check
    Seagate Barracuda 1TB (x4) -check

    Graphics
    EVGA GTX 285 rev2 - check (will be phys X)
    EVGA GTX 580 (x3) -

    Monitors and Accessories
    Alienware AW2310 - check
    Alienware AW2310 (x2 more) -
    Nvidia 3D Vision Kit - check :D
    Nvidia 3D Vision extra glasses -

    Optical
    Samsung SH-B123A 12X Blu-ray DVD Combo Drive -check

    Waterblocks
    EK-FC580 GTX - Nickel & acrylic (x3) -
    EK-FC285 GTX PCB Rev.2 -Copper and acrylic -check
    EK-FB KIT GA X58 (UD9) - Nickel - Check

    Thermal Interface Materials and Cleaners
    Indigo Xtreme 1366 -check
    Arctic Cooling MX-4 Thermal Compound - check (for gpu's with ek blocks)
    Arctic Silver ArctiClean (60ml Kit) - check

    Watercooling Accessories
    EK-FC Bridge TRIPLE Parallel - (almost tempted to get quad one also just incase 580 and 285 fc block holes match up, would look much cleaner)
    EK-FC Link GeForce (x3) -
    EK-PSC Fitting 10mm - G1/4 (x lots) - 6 nickle so far, think i will need about..... 34....
    Tygon 3603 Tubing 3/8 ID (x a fair distance) -
    Tygon 3603 Tubing 1/2 ID (x enough to do both the double helix)
    Swiftech MCR320-res (x3) -
    120mm fans (x9) - undecided
    aquacomputer aquastream pump ultra x2 -
    aquacomputer aquaero -
    3/8 ID QDC fittings (x undecided) - (have only found koolance ones if anyone else could supply me link to diff manufacturer's qdc's i would be very appreciative) =)

    Paint
    Black Automotive Primer/Filler - check
    Black Automotive Enamel - check
    Clear Automotive Enamel - check
    plastic primer -


    Acrylic
    100mm OD 94mm ID clear acrylic tube 250-350mm in length (x2) -
    120mm OD 114mm ID clear acrylic tube 250-350mm in length (x2) -
    3mm clear acrylic sheet -
    10mm clear acrylic sheet -
    6mm black acrylic sheet -
    some offcuts of acrylic in blue and green and possiblely UV reactive would be cool but not worth buying a whole sheet over (......yet, damn me and my dreams)

    MDPC Loving
    MDPC Sleeve kit - check (goes without saying)
    Crimping Tool - check
    way too many crimp contacts - check
    Black Screws and brainwashers - check
    Aquamarine Blue small sleeve and sata sleeve with matching heatshrink - check
    Green small sleeve and sata sleeve with matching heatshrink - check (but will probablely be needing more green small sleeve and tempted to not sleeve anymore til i get some precut heatshrink in blue, black and green so hard cutting it straight)
    Black dome head rivets - check
    Cable management clips -check

    Lighting
    Bitspower 300mm UV ccfl (x4) -check
    Vantec 300mm Blue ccfl (x2) - check
    proablely some white or green ccfl (x2) -
    Lamptron Elite 4-Port CCFL Aluminium Inverter x 2 -
    UV led (x a few) -check
    Blue led (x a few) -check
    Green led (x a few) -check


    Tools
    Dremel - check
    Lamptron cable modding tool - check
    Allen keys - check
    2000w heatgun - check (already borrowed off my bro)
    nifty dremel table/vice/clamp - check
    screwdrivers - check
    soldering iron - check
    Bic Lighter - check
    M3 and UNC 6-32 tap and matching drill bits - check
    g1/4 tap - check

    Just to be clear only currently have things marked with - check , hence why this is longterm build
     
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    Bullus

    Bullus Member

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    anyways, good as time as any to go into the tube to acrylic waterblock concept i am toying with... the top of my 2d pic of my 3d google sketchup should give some idea as to my thought process....:think:

    so still pondering whether to have no tubes in the outer res and run all the coolant through channels in acrylic sheets. top will definately be a acrylic slab running the coolant between 2 dna res. This is a shot of top view of earlier sketch.... (bad measurments and what not but idea is there)
    [​IMG]

    think i might mount the bottom of dna res on 2 acrylic blocks with channels to outside outer res tank for cleaner look, still trying to figure what pumps and where to place them.......
    and yeah i remember how loud the air pump on my parents old massive fish tank, was actually gonna go check out some pet store this weekend to try and get a gauge of prices and sound levels. would only need a really tiny one i figure.
     
  5. OP
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    Bullus

    Bullus Member

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    so many packages arriveing soon i figure i should get a move on with the removeable motherboard and backplate tray.

    so gutted the big case cause it was holding me back having computer in there... but left with the dilema of what to do about a working pc whilst i mod case for ud9, so put my trusty medion on the what was left of motherboard tray from the small case (had practised my dremel technique and painting on it as i was originally going to have twin computers ) (pretty happy with paint job also, didn't polish it as i scrapped idea that involved it but still almost blends into my black glass desktop:thumbup:)

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    so got big tray now free figure i should test fit ud9. anyways fits nicely though there is no holes for bottom 3 standoffs. so used a cut piece of plastic "painted" on the with permanent marker to poke through last 3 standoff holes.

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    but there is a silly groove right where i would need to tap 2 of the holes.... not a fan of said groove anyways as it makes staight cuts through it look messy and woonky.... it had outgrown it's welcome me thinks.... so rumaged around in the garage for some car body filler and turned up a tin of fiberglass filler. fiberglass stuff was in good shape but hardener didn't look so good. worst case i peel off a bunch of gunk wash it and get some new hardener, is in my bathroom currently curing under heatlamp / fan thingy. fingers crossed it worked but lots of messy sanding if it does
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    sand out offending groove....

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    ready disposable speader/stirrer and mixing tray.... gotta love takeaway container lids...

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    not the smoothest finish but thats what sandpaper is for...
    anyways gonna go check on it now and start sanding if it worked
     
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    Bullus

    Bullus Member

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    the groove it appears didn't like that i talked bad about him on the internet... and decided to say no to my fiberglass.

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    coat 1

    so after some cleaning up, and having a talk with said groove about how i wasn't hiding him i was just giving him a cool fiberglass proctive layer for his awesomeness... i convinced him to hold my fiberglass (also the hardener in bottom of tube was in better condition... ) but still he decided to try and wreck my plans....

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    coat 2 (new first coat, sanded and shaved back with razor)

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    me having convinced corner to play nice this time with razor

    so pretty nice "1st coat" all in all, but to make sure groove plays nice this time i wiped out the razor blade as spreader, i also chopped up the mixed fiberglass to try and shorten the length of strands in it so as to spread better

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    hopefully new and improved spreading fiberglass :)

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    naughty corner hopefully is going to play ball

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    "2nd coat" sunbaking under heatlamp in bathroom

    so yeah another bash at wet/dry sanding, very fine final coat and will start hunting around for the drill and pop those rivets out reading for painting. :D
     
  7. OP
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    Bullus

    Bullus Member

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    sometimes i love coming home from work so much more than other times....

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    2 packages from USA and 1 very happy computer geek.....

    package 1....
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    package 2

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    EK fullcover block for UD9, EK supreme HF (both nickle / plexi) 6 EK 3/8' compression fittings, 3M double sided tape, 4 1/2' barb fittings i couldn't not get..../sigh

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    indigo xtreme 1366 thermal interface medium, artic silver mx-4

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    3 8pin pci-e plugs, 1 24pin plug, 1 8pin eps/atx plug, (i hate 6+2, 4+4 and 20+4 plugs...) clear neon 4 oz brush on uv paint in blue and green, ac ryan 18 awg wire in uv blue and uv green 10 ft of each and just poking in the corner of pic 3mm twin uv led.

    haven't seen any real reviews of clear neon so gonna do bunch of testing with it first.

    here is a little teaser /preview of it in action...

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    paint on, lights on, no uv

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    paint on, lights on, uv on

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    paint on, lights on, uv on, camera with flash

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    paint on, lights off , uv on

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    lights off , ac ryan wires, uv on

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    lights on , ac ryan wires, uv off, camera with flash

    sorry shots are bit messy, but least that way ya can trust i was taking pics of same area...
    also any suggestions of how i can / should test non electroconductivity on the paint, got old mobo's and gonna paint em up and see if they blow but any ideas of how and what tests i can also do with cheapo multimeter to get some real data for thers out there who may be interested in paint as modding tool, or if any reviews/test are already around of brush on paint let me know so i can save my time been searching for ages but only seen spray reviews... (see thread here)
     
  8. OP
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    Bullus

    Bullus Member

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    been working hard with sketchup, and worked out how to convert to autocad stuff with sketchup pro. here is a pretty much finalised structual shape of the bottom section of the res system, and it's pieces as i would currently fit them on 2 400mm x 400mm x 10mm clear acrylic sheet need to still work out water channeling and maybe also might mix up the bottom sheet to incorporate the air bubble setup into it waterblock style. also most probablely will use 2 of the wierd shaped half circle piece under the 100mm tubes... i see it all so clearly in my mind, just can't get it into my computer, daydreams of plugging in matrix style to design case * anyways merry christmas to all, and enjoy what i have manage to wrestle out of the twisted mess i call a mind to entertain you all.....

    [​IMG]

    colors are just there so you guys can makes sense of it little better

    [​IMG]
     
  9. OP
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    Bullus

    Bullus Member

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    so got back from my holiday in the sun where it rained every day except the day we left.....
    packed for just such weather but ended up drinking and playing with the baby... still waiting for pics of me and her in matching horde gear(the are on my sister's ( who is in Fiji) camera), she has inspired me for an even more awesome (not as powerful though) build for her, she's 6 months old so 1&1/2 years to scratch design and build it....will be awesome.....
    edit: bonus extra for this forum.... me and my niece rocking out a rainy queensland arvo
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    my suitcase preflight, with all the toys a geek could want to pass time if stuck in hotel room. all my unsleeved power cables, all my sleeveing, heatgun, blu ray drive and tucked in underneath somewhere my laptron toolkit and mdpc crimper (and 1tb of tv, movies and music). (little note to people, make sure you put your crimper in checked baggage, left mine in my laptop bag on way back home and almost missed my flight cause i had to run and post it to myself (forgot to do a drawing for myself though,;) almost forgot about it so was pleasant surprise when postie dropped it off.(was worth it though cause my suitcase was stuffed with macadamias, ... mmmm mango butter toffee macadamias..... )

    but been back for a week and have been on holidays down here also....;) been busy at playing with a million different pieces for this build, really want that i7 up and running.... so been playing with the main parts i need to do this, which brought up a whole bunch more issues/ chances to push borders and just be fancy for no reason other than i can. Plus the internals of a comp (ie cpu, motherboards and graphics cards) constantly change and get more powerful, but a well designed custom part / case can outlast multiple system changes.

    so will start will smallest change i prob have made in this week

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    goodbye warranty, hello UV awesomeness.....

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    7 matching holes like this one now in the 2 blocks that make up my EK fullcover mobo block, will make matching holes in the fullcover graphics cards blocks acryllic also i think.

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    and of course whats a modding job, unless you use a modified too aswell

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    who needs fancy bench drill presses and what not when you have a roll of masking tape and a ruler.:D

    and then there was our friend the groove on the motherboard tray.....
    masked off said grove and gave it a think layer of the primer to remove any final little gaps, and sanded that back leaving this

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    ready to be painted i think... glad the groove decided to play nice after all, spent alot of time filling and sanding it though.

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    went a little overboard on the primer and got drips (mental note stop painting stuff at 2am) but thats ok cause was only first coat and i was trying to still build up /smooth out some areas.

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    after good sanding and another coat of primer is looking pretty good, quick sand and should be ready for the gloss coats...

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    I/O shield primed and painted with couple of coats of gloss so far

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    part of dvd drive after primed with just 1 coat of gloss so far

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    and been doing a little sleeveing also, must say stock gigabyte sata cables match really well with mdpc aquamarine sleeveing and heatshrink.
     
    Last edited: Feb 4, 2011
  10. OP
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    Bullus

    Bullus Member

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    raining outside so i can't do more painting tonight.....

    but just took some nice shots of case parts to share with you all.

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    alot of case parts on my drying rack where i moved them after a little drying in my spraying area.

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    the main part of the 2 parts (plus 2 little supports) of the removable motherboard tray in my sparying area, wind blew down a side during the day. found it little wierd (and much harder to paint and sand) that the expansion slots where same piece as the mobo tray.

    and i call this one, self portrait of a geek in a half finished gloss finish. ;)

    [​IMG]
     
  11. OP
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    Bullus

    Bullus Member

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    been working on designing a front plate. spent over 3 hrs in Sketchup doing different DNA helix in 2D (getting pretty good handle on it now though :thumbup:)

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    then initial concept

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    but this just didn't feel like enough....
    this is going to sound funny, but went to see tron legacy at Imax, and got great inspiration for my case. not from the movie, but from the Imax signs

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    so the concept here is black front plate with 2 slots for dvd and blu ray, little circle for flow meter on thermaltake pump/rad/res unit (still need cut outs above circle for mesh fan area on unit), then switch area above the DNA cut outs. in this design there was matching back plate for front plate DNA cutouts, i was going to light the white back plate with green and blue leds. But upon further consideration i decided i didn't want white patches when the led's were off.

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    some where in the whole process i remembered 3D doesn't just mean 90 degree angles......

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    all of this starts to come together in this design, white flush sitting "back plate" has been replaced with "3D" textured black tinted acrylic, front black acrylic plate has been replace with black painted aluminium.(grey in pic so can clearly see details....) need to get some sample pieces of different acrylics so i can do some tests before i can finalise this.

    which bring me to another thing i have been working on. some feedback from the better electronic minds amongst our family would really be appreciated on this one....
    my lighting control setup (not electronic design or pcb layout, just draft idea form)
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    so molex power comes in and ground goes directly to KR6 PWM 12v dimmer switch, 12V comes in and goes to switch through 6A fuse. both ground and 12V go back to board from dimmer switch being PWM controlled (i think), 12v the runs to several spst toggle switches. Each switch will light a diff color or area. the switches will run to it's own bank of resistors (each switch will probable connect to diff amount of resistors) designed to run the required amount of LEDs for the color / area. the resistors will connect to molex KK headers with the LEDs being wired and sleeved with plugs to connect to headers (will make for easier replacement of blown bulbs)
    still researching if i can find cheaper dimmer switch (so i can do dimmer for each switch removing toggle switches) but cheaper options all seem too bulky and my electronics skills aren't up to doing my own 555 timer thingy yet.
    all thoughts, comments, critism and suggestions welcomed and encouraged....

    (most importantly from someone who knows more about this stuff than me. will it work for the intended purpose?)
     
    Last edited: Feb 4, 2011
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    Bullus

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    on other forum someone suggested using single helix with diff color strands and as that was my first idea, and as it is all still in design phase may revert to it. was going to use the white panel idea with each cutout segment seperated so the blue and green only light up the right bits....

    i just personally feel the 2 helix symetrically arranged will look alot better in the black on black arrangement .... anyways hearing someone else suggest it means it is worth drawing out.... got all the pieces just need to rescale and reposition.... so glad i am not doing this on paper....

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    so ok this post is taking ages to write (at least 30 min at this point.... ) but definately getting the ideas flowing....
    (at least 30 min at this point....) .....*alt tabs to sketchup*

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    clear acrylic with blue and green leds with top face cut to fit faceplate cutout. leds will be behind faceplate when constructed. black acrylic case to fit bottom of clear piece and isolate lighting in clear acrylic.(with holes for led wires) **just rectangle shape for demonstration and conceptual purposes** ***plus it was easier***

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    clear acrylic piece in it's black casing

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    cased clear acrylic pieces mounted on faceplate (2 mm black aluminium), and the various stages of assembly.

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    so using the above color switchable clear acrylic front panel cutout matching thingies.. i would wire them with 2 switches for each color, 1 switch controlling the odd panels. The other switch the evens. this would enable be able to color the helixes all blue, all green or the alternating approach with either color being able to be the "starting" color. also should work well for black on slightly diff black when the LEDs are all out..... might have to wire 8 switches in this configuration to be able to have each helix diff color. though will try and work out if i can put in 1 switch which will do this whilst retaining the color switching stuff.....

    anyways 2hrs on one post is little too long for me... back to sanding/painting and i should be able to mount mobo this weekend weather permitting.
     
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    Bullus

    Bullus Member

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    [​IMG]

    sorry if i already put this pic up but i didn't properly explain those drive covers in the original post (lol if i pasted that one across here).... to be honest i wasn't really over the moon with them, i like them but the constant solid color that i was invisageing wasn't with theme i am going for on the front plate. but i digress... the slot have matching plates that will be attached to front of drive tray and horizontal helix will be on each drive plate, sitting just above frontplate.. want to have blue for blu ray and green for dvd. but now i want to do a similar thing as the bottom of the plate, also the blank area between drives and the helix is currently planned for lighting switches (smallest *within reason* spst toggle switch in black or shiny metal)
     
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    Bullus

    Bullus Member

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    been playing around today. All over the place on this build, you guys know about alot of it but so much going on in my head it is hard to keep track of it sometimes....

    but couple more important decisions have taken place, means it is going to cost more and mean it will take longer to afford it but thats the choice i have made, even though i want it up and rocking.:(

    so decided to go with 2 aquastream ultra pumps and a aquaero so i can go over board on temp sensors, might even be able to control all 9 fans for rads from this setup (still looking it all up) but all this water cooling tech will be in 2nd case seperate from mobo.
    so this i believe raises an issue.... how to connect to usb headers on mobo... (actually made this decision bout a month ago and have been working on this issue)

    was using pad-2-pad (software attached to custom pcb manufactor) but i think i will end up making my own (still looking for software to design and print out this), if i need to do more than top and bottom layers i will use it... anyways here is my design for taking 3 usb mobo connectors and routeing them to a usb 3.0 cable. using design again in pc case, routes them back to 3 x usb mobo connectors. will see if it works in usb 3.0 connector on ud9 i/o plate maybe (in theory it should work (transmit and send data) just how said data would be handled by computer would be the issue) already have a usb 3.0 type a male -male cable ready for the job.

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    hopefully you can still read the little white writing on the blue of the holes and only spacing and hole size on usb3.0 header are correct (distance from edge is wrong though) want to rearrange it all so can be done on 1 sided pcb but explains the design pretty well (yellow is silkscreen, red is top copper layer, green is bottom copper layer, blue is empty space of a through hole) each of the + and - data streams from the usb match up with a seperate data stream in usb3.0 header and cable according to usb3.0 standards.

    also got some led's and lots of resistors...... :thumbup:

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    just a test... drilled a few more led holes in ud9 block and got some better ideas going for actually putting them in and wiring them. (resistor is in test strip, but will be on pcb control board in finish build)

    also decided to do some spring cleaning cause my ud9 block has been laying around while i worked on it.

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    and to keep everything interesting some nudity... younger reader please leave now... ;)
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    UD9 minus heatsinks.... the nvidia NF200 chips are so shiny.... went through a million cotton tips cleaning off thermal paste and pads on board. so just need to finish tracing led hole spaceing off the L piece and i can mount those suckers on....

    proablely will drop off my gtx 285 EK fc block for nickle plateing this week also.


    but yeah if someone could comment on wether my attempts at designing circuits seem valid it would be appreciated. was really what i was looking for constructive critism on. thanks in advance
     
    Last edited: Feb 4, 2011
  15. OP
    OP
    Bullus

    Bullus Member

    Joined:
    Feb 5, 2010
    Messages:
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    Location:
    Bayswater, Vic, 3153
    So if you have made it this far i am finished with the cut and paste and i apologise for if the thread / posts seem disjointed but i will now be updating this thread at least weekly.




    or at least trying to, less time on forums = more time modding. tough choice...
     
  16. OP
    OP
    Bullus

    Bullus Member

    Joined:
    Feb 5, 2010
    Messages:
    218
    Location:
    Bayswater, Vic, 3153
    been working on this for last few days. think i finally have it (of course only if i can get it cut like this or I have to rework entire front panel.)

    anyways just to show my love for ya all i am going to post my finalised design for the helix on my front plate. first people in the world besides myself to see this.
    (note using grey instead of final color black so edges can be seen)

    [​IMG]
    this shows the backplate for the front plate (large black thing) and at the top the 4 pieces that get copied to fill all the spaces on "backplate". each large inset piece gets 3 green and 3 blue LED the smaller insets just get 1 of each color, wires for LEDs are routed though hole to back of "backplate"

    [​IMG]
    backplate filled (except no wiring) the areas of insets containing LED sit flush with black back plate. each inset has a 2mm raised piece of helix that will sit flush with frontplate.

    [​IMG]
    frontplate helix area fully assembled, LED's are hidden from direct sight and in theory helix should look like just a diff shade of black on the black frontpanel.

    wiring for LED will be arranged so can follow the concept from one of my earlier pasted posts.
     
  17. NeonTiTan

    NeonTiTan Member

    Joined:
    Jan 25, 2009
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    252
    Location:
    sydney
    looking awesome. keep up the good wrk
     
  18. Broden

    Broden Member

    Joined:
    May 2, 2009
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    Looks great. Will be keeping an eye on this.
     
  19. Hive

    Hive Member

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    ( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°)
    Subbed. Will turn out very nicely by the looks of things.
     
  20. brayway

    brayway Member

    Joined:
    Nov 29, 2008
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    Location:
    Dun - New Zealand
    Looks awesome so far!
     

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