Mineral Oil

Discussion in 'Extreme and Water Cooling' started by coderx, Feb 17, 2014.

  1. juzz86

    juzz86 Member

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    I reckon you'll be right. I wouldn't take off the heatsinks though. Leave the sinks on, take the fans off and maximise the surface area - even leave the fans on and circulating around the sinks. I'm pretty sure that was done in a couple of the older projects I've seen on YouTube etc.

    You'll need an absolute butt-ton of flow directly at the die to counteract the surface area provided by the heatsink, and I'm not sure that'll work out so well.

    The outlets pointing at the GPUs is a good idea, just point them at and around the sink fins and you should be right. I know you're not fussed about killing the gear, but I think you'll fare a lot better keeping the sinks on at least :thumbup:

    You've also gotta keep an eye on the oil wicking up the cables back into the PSU, onto the floor etc. You can get around this by using extension cables to plug everything into the PSU above the oil level I think.
     
  2. Huggy_Bear64

    Huggy_Bear64 Member

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    Nah mate, PSU in the oil as well. :thumbup:
     
  3. juzz86

    juzz86 Member

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    Really? Fuck that's awesome! Gonna make stopping the wicking a bit hard though. How do you get around that?
     
  4. Ninja_Harbinger

    Ninja_Harbinger Member

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    I'm quite clueless when it comes to things like this. Does it wick up because of the heat? Does it solidify it or something? Or is it just it getting jammed in all the little crevices and staying there?
     
  5. Huggy_Bear64

    Huggy_Bear64 Member

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    Wicking? :confused:
     
  6. juzz86

    juzz86 Member

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    I'm honestly not sure of the actual science behind it, although I guess it has something to do with its specific gravity. Basically it 'climbs' up the inside of the cable insulation against the wires, and can seep out of the aquarium (and possibly into the powerpoint).

    I've done a fair bit of research on this subject because it's something I'd like to do one day. Definitely not an expert, but this is the biggest issue with these builds.

    Puget Systems has a lot of info on this. Basically you want to interrupt the cables at some point out of the oil, so that the oil can only wick to that point. For example, use PCI-E and molex extension cables into the oil, and join them to PSU cables outside the oil. Putting the PSU in the oil will solve this, and you can just use an IEC (3-pin PSU) extension cable to connect it to the powerpoint. You can also prevent overfilling the aquarium more than necessary, so that the oil has to 'work harder' to wick out of the aquarium, to slow it. If it's deep enough, apparently you can stop it completely this way too :)
     
  7. Huggy_Bear64

    Huggy_Bear64 Member

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    You could just seal the aquarium. :thumbup:
     
  8. juzz86

    juzz86 Member

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    True cobber, and you'd wanna do that for dust as well. But the power cable still has to come out of it somewhere if the PSU is submerged. In other builds the ports of the mobo have been kept out of the oil, so they're all good :)
     
  9. Huggy_Bear64

    Huggy_Bear64 Member

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    Soblem Prolved.
     
  10. juzz86

    juzz86 Member

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  11. Juggs

    Juggs Member

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    the hydraulic steering in my boat is just plain mineral oil but it is $12.50 per litre from the boat supply places
     
  12. havabeer

    havabeer Member

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    what kind of viscosity are you looking for? i assume the lowest is best

    is there any reason you can't use any of these, if most hydraulic oils are mineral based?


    same guy i assume
    http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/MOBIL-DTE-25-ISO-VG-46-Hydraulic-Oil-20L-/221366876651?pt=AU_Business_Industrial_Industrial_Supply_MRO&hash=item338a7e79eb

    http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Hydraulic-Oil-Filtered-ISO-14-11-Viscosity-32-46-68-205L-Drum-/321272561064?pt=AU_Business_Industrial_Industrial_Supply_MRO&hash=item4acd563da8

    another thing, i know the system is sealed... but for added protection is it worth adding any kind of filter to the system
     
  13. rainwulf

    rainwulf Member

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    You should really not remove the heatsinks, or at least, remove the current heatsinks and put on a copper heat spreader. There is just not enough surface area on a chip even with direct fluid flow to take the heat away, and there is plenty of research being done with this kind of direct chip cooling.

    You are best to attach a small copper heatspreader with pins. no fins. With pins you can get fluid flow all through the pins, and no hot spots.
    Only the GPU and CPU will need this, every other chip will be fine as they only put out up to 5 watts, which is easily cooled with convection.
     
  14. OP
    OP
    coderx

    coderx Member

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    Given the replies here and some things I've been reading the heatsinks will stay now.

    I will still have to remove them to clean away the thermal compound (pretty sure it will foul the oil).

    Thanks everyone for the advice. I will post some pics of the system once it's up and running, I estimate roughly 1 month before it's good to go.
     
  15. juzz86

    juzz86 Member

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    Best of luck with it mate. Hope it all goes well. Looking forward to seeing it in action!
     
  16. Davo1111

    Davo1111 Member

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    ive heard mineral oil is used as a laxative for horses. If you can't get it in the quantities you need, perhaps that might be an avenue to investigate?
     
  17. ck_psy

    ck_psy Member

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    $6 a liter is not that bad.

    try an agricultural supply shop.
    coop shop.
     
  18. Rory K

    Rory K Member

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    Or if you DO get it in the quantities you need, but then decide to scrap the project, you have the makings of a very large-scale prank... ;)
     

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