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mR_CaESaR's arcade projects

Discussion in 'Retro & Arcade Worklogs' started by mR_CaESaR, Mar 5, 2022.

  1. mR_CaESaR

    mR_CaESaR Member

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    Last edited: Mar 22, 2022
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  2. OP
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    mR_CaESaR

    mR_CaESaR Member

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    Fluffy's CAVE IGS PGM PCBs

    For those that are into shmups, of course know "Cave" and there's a user on Arcade Projects that created PCBs to essentially create the 3x IGS PGM converted titles - DoDonpachi DaiOuJou, Espgaluda and Ketsui.

    Details on this thread and assembly guide on this thread.

    Whilst I already have these three games on IGS PGM (Chinese version), Fluffy's ones are apparently better in the long term due to using the correct voltage on the chips (I'm not sure, but it's community accepted) :D

    It's been a long time coming, but I eventually ordered the necessary parts to build this - it's a long process, but if you have an EPROM Programmer and some soldering skills, you should be all good.

    I ordered 4x sets so I could have all 3 made up and use one as a "test" board - the way these are, you can't socket one particular board so you have to directly solder them on and I can't think of anything worse than trying to troubleshoot which eprom is screwed and having to desolder it all, so with the test board, it won't be in a case, so I can socket the board, test and then install in a proper board.

    Quick install of the sockets

    [​IMG]

    Then all the necessary resistors and caps

    [​IMG]

    The populated "Program board" (missing some GAL chips at the time of pic)

    [​IMG]

    The populated "Char board"

    [​IMG]

    First boot up didn't go down so well... had graphics glitches but I did have sound



    After some quick troubleshooting tips from the thread and gc8tech (pretty much the IGS PGM Guru) on discord, he recommended I reburn a T1 and T2 chip along with the U5 GAL. I did this and voila!! We have a working DOJ!!



    I've got some more DIP42 sockets to wait for, but I managed to build the rest of the boards today

    [​IMG]

    Burning all these EPROMS and GALs took pretty much the whole morning/early afternoon - jeez they take long!!

    [​IMG]

    Over the next few days, I'll test DOJ properly and ensure I can clear it without any glitches before soldering it onto the board.

    Edit 08/03/22

    Busy couple of days - I managed to test all three games extensively and was happy enough with the results to solder them directly to the board

    [​IMG]

    Who doesn't love a good label? :D

    [​IMG]

    Espgaluda

    [​IMG]

    Ketsui

    [​IMG]

    Ketsui Trap Edition (with a jumper on JP2)

    [​IMG]

    Last thing left for this project is the waiting game. Waiting for some more DIP 42 and DIP 20 sockets and the cases, other than that, the project is done :D
     
    Last edited: Mar 8, 2022
    Scarpetta, Vanne, ShaggyMoose and 5 others like this.
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    mR_CaESaR

    mR_CaESaR Member

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    Reserved for OpenJVS
     
  4. OP
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    mR_CaESaR

    mR_CaESaR Member

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    Upgrading Naomi DIMM F/W upgrade from 1.02 to 4.02

    Here I upgrade an old, cheap and useless Naomi DIMM that is on version 1.02 to 4.02 so I can turn this cheap DIMM into a useful DIMM that can be used for Compact Flash

    Why:

    You might ask yourself why would you want to do this process instead of just netbooting, for me personally, it was all about "just wanting to try it out". For others, it might be a much cheaper alternative than purchasing a NetDimm and RaspberryPi for netbooting.

    The price of a DIMM that's on 1.02 is very cheap and you can also get cheap CF Flash Card readers from Aliexpress for relatively cheap. If you have the correct tools, you can create you own games on CF cards which you may have laying around from old cameras and what not (512mb is all you really need for Naomi).

    This is also a cheaper replacement for dying GD Roms provided you have all the necessary tools to complete it all.

    What is required:

    • An EPROM programmer
    • A TSOP48 to DIP48 adapter (for mine programmer I needed this - TOP 3000)
    • The Binary F/W for 4.02 - you'll have to google this
    • A 29LV160 Flash
    • A Sega Naomi
    • Heatgun
    • Soldering stuff (iron with proper tip - I used a bevel tip, solder, flux, IPA and solder braid)
    • Ability to SMD solder :D
    Process:

    • Ensure your DIMM is operational via the test menu
    [​IMG]
    • Remove the 1.02 flash from the board using your heat gun
    [​IMG]

    • Once the flash is removed, clean out your surface with flux, solder braid and IPA ensuring that the surface is nice and flat
    [​IMG]

    • Prepare your new BIOS and make sure you're able to erase, write and verify within your program
    [​IMG]

    • Solder your freshly written BIOS on the board ensuring there are no bridges- don't be shy on flux! Flux is your best friend for this process, you only need a little amount of solder, but flux will save you :) I do the "dragging" method, which is why I prefer the bevel tip. Ensure
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    • If you're happy with the soldering, re-assemble the DIMM and if you boot up without getting Error 22, then it's a good sign! :) Load the test menu and confirm you are now on 4.02
    [​IMG]

    Now you have 4.02 F/W, you can use the card reader instead of a GD Rom drive. Unfortunately with my current setup, the card reader protrudes out quite a bit so I'm looking for a Male to Female SCSI 50 cable so I can route it better and not protrude out like it currently does

    [​IMG]

    • Games are simply loaded by burning it onto the CF a particular way and loading it up
    [​IMG]

    Troubleshooting:

    • If you get Error 22, there's a high probability that you've incorrectly soldered the flash, make sure you check your pins and they're not bridged - remember, flux, flux and more flux!
    • If you still get Error 22, make sure you're using a 29LV160 flash. I made the silly mistake of thinking all TSOP48 chips were all the same - I had burned the BIOS onto a 29400T (same one used for the CPS3 BIOS) and I kept getting error 22. After reading the spec sheet, I found there were a number of pins that are "n/c" on the 29400T, but is required for the 29LV160
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Mar 22, 2022
  5. OP
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    mR_CaESaR

    mR_CaESaR Member

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    Monkey Ball Repro Joystick, Output Amp and Panel (Part 1)

    It all started on a thread on Arcade-Projects regarding a way of playing Monkey Ball on the Naomi - which I will admit, I never played outside of console with analog controllers, but the Banana stick was something I could definitely see having novelty with the kids and of course a number of inappropriate innuendo with the adults :D

    Enter the journey of Monkey Ball! :D

    First decided to jump on board with this solution back in December.

    Things required to make this work:
    1. Banana Stick
    2. Gundam stick
    3. Repro Panel
    4. Op Amp pcb
    5. Relevant harnesses depending on which cab
    6. Add 2k resistors to the Gundam stick pots
    I received the Gundam stick back in January

    Just got delivery of the sticks!

    [​IMG]

    I noticed these appear to have JST VL 9 way, but I can't seem to find a part number for the connector. The spec sheet on Rs components doesn't have a 9 way in a 3x3. I've been advised it's a JST YL connector.

    As an interim, I've chopped off the ends of a 15 way which will work.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Based on the notes in the linked page, I quickly rigged up a harness to test and ended up with something like this..

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    After some calibration, my input values ended up like this (need to refer back to the previous thread to see how this compares)

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    A quick test of the game and to my surprise, she works! :D - please excuse the game play, i was mainly testing to ensure it went where I moved the stick and the monkey went faster if I pushed the stick harder, oh and apologies for smashing that start button, it definitely comes out way louder on video

     
    Trizae, Vanne, MUTMAN and 1 other person like this.
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    mR_CaESaR

    mR_CaESaR Member

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    Monkey Ball Repro Joystick, Output Amp and Panel (Part 2)

    An interim banana was 3d printed to use for the time being until I am able to get the proper banana from the guys on Arcade Projects - let the innuendo begin!! :D

    [​IMG]

    I got my Output Amp back in Feb with all the relevant components and built it as best as I could with the parts I have.

    [​IMG]

    I also got my panel yesterday, thanks to alberto1225 for making it and djsheep for sending it down. Also have to thank Lemony Vengeance for sending me some 6 way JST connectors and headers - otherwise, my op amp would be a hack job :D

    The panel was pretty much the missing piece for me to start making the necessary harnesses for the control panel.

    Look at her! It's gorgeous!

    [​IMG]

    It took me a little while to figure out how Alberto designed the mount and how to install it, but I eventually got there

    [​IMG]

    I used m4 spacers and nut, but using this was slightly too big and as a result didn't fit properly, so I needed to use some m3 spacers which was smaller in height and didn't touch the stick

    [​IMG]

    Because I'm a visual guy, I mapped the information above from the diagram above to exactly where what pins need what and colour coded it accordingly :D

    Excuse the MS Paint job, but I think it's a good representation of what needs to be done haha

    [​IMG]

    First step was to desolder the wires from the pots

    [​IMG]

    Because I opted for the "option 2" as per this post, I needed to put 2k resistors inline for pins 1 and 3 of both pots.

    [​IMG][/url]

    I removed all the existing Gundam stick wiring and kept the sleeve to use and I tried to make it look as "oem" as I possibly could, I think it's turned out great :)

    [​IMG]

    Rather than putting the 4way JST NH directly to a JST RA 26 pin, I put the 26 way into a TE Amp Up 4 way female, just as it would if there was a slot connected at the back plate on the blast city, I know I could've just gone direct, but for "completeness sake" :D

    [​IMG]

    My setup is almost there, I'm just in between some shuffling of the space and restore of another cab, so I won't get to properly test this for a little while, if my diagram is correct, then it should work fine.
     
  7. ShaggyMoose

    ShaggyMoose Member

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    It's a very neat job!
     
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    mR_CaESaR

    mR_CaESaR Member

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    Monkey Ball is done and dusted! (only waiting for the proper repro banana which will eventually come, but in its current state, it's very playable :D)

    Artwork isntalled and a quick run through of beginner :D

    [​IMG]

    https://www.youtube.com/shorts/fabqFUgB7GA

    Such a fun game!!!
     
  9. OP
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    mR_CaESaR

    mR_CaESaR Member

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    Slightly off topic and not so much arcade related, but I will probably throw some arcade games in there just for the hell of it :D

    Fujifilm Kiosk Jukebox

    I purchased this photo kiosk almost 2 years ago with plans of doing a touch screen jukebox for the other half and of course, more projects happened during that time and this one always got pushed back. As of the last couple of weeks, I've pushed through and tried to get this one across the line as the "tinkering" itch needed to be scratched :D

    Here's the stock standard kiosk as it was 2 years ago :)

    [​IMG]

    There was no way, this was going to be in any living spaces as it is, so it had to be painted.

    Got my trusty canvas and work horse out (these two have done a number of respray's together :D)

    [​IMG]

    After a couple of weeks, we've ended up with a Panda themed colour scheme

    [​IMG]

    Next up were the internals. I decided to go Edifier R1280DBS as they fit perfectly (accordingly to my measurements - but I'm always weary about that). Reviews were good on the speakers, I have another set of Edifiers for my desk and was very happy. They were reasonably priced and also supported bluetooth for when people just want to connect in themselves.

    I had a spare NUC (really old celeron one) and thought I could use it - but after trying to install windows and having a muck around with it, I just didn't like the way it ran, fortunately, I had a spare micro pc with an i5 6500t and SSD which made a world of difference.

    [​IMG]

    Of course, there's always a rats nest when it comes to these things

    [​IMG]

    Cable ties fixes everything! :D

    [​IMG]

    And I mean everything :D I secured the speakers using a combination of 4 longer cable ties haha

    [​IMG]

    Cut out the metal plate, gave it a quick paint and this is what it looks like as an interim until I buy some speaker cloth to cover this area.

    [​IMG]

    Was looking into all these fancy jukebox applications and found just windows in tablet mode + spotify will do the job 90% of the time for the Mrs

    [​IMG]

    I'd still be happy to have a localised collection for tracks that aren't on spotify.

    Last mod completed last night was an underglow

    [​IMG]

    It's a bit bright for my liking, but we'll see how it is in real world applications..
     
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  10. Pierre32

    Pierre32 Member

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    I often see those pop up, and daydream about potential projects. Very neat!
     
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    mR_CaESaR

    mR_CaESaR Member

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    Got some Jaycar speaker cloth and it seems to be doing the job. The back doesn't look all that great with all the gorilla tape

    [​IMG]

    But front view, I think it looks great and I'm very happy with the outcome of it

    [​IMG]

    The underglow is definitely on the over powering side, so i might look at reducing the amount of lights I have at the bottom. The good thing is, I can easily unplug the molex connect if I don't wan it on.
     
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  12. MUTMAN

    MUTMAN Member

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    That's bloody cool. Do want one :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:
     
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    mR_CaESaR

    mR_CaESaR Member

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    hahah yeah.. it's a great re-purpose :D

    Of course it's all novelty as I already have Edifier speakers on my PC and I could technically use those already for the same thing... but it's not in a nice all in one unit that can be brought out to the back when there's a party :D
     
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    mR_CaESaR

    mR_CaESaR Member

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    Wireless Phone Charger using Sega AIME card reader

    For a little while now, I've been using the Sega AIME Control panel for Astro Cities (I've also since purchased another 2 of these panels giving me a total of 4 since I like the style so much). Since I'm not using any PCBs that would make sure of the AIME card reader, I thought, why not re-purpose it all since it's already there.

    [​IMG]

    A number of people I know use a wireless phone charger on their NesicaLive card reader, so I figured I'd do the same with the AIME. Enter this 5 dollar fast charging unit from Aliexpress

    I purchased 4 of these units and they arrived yesterday. There's really not much to them.

    [​IMG]

    I initially thought my phone chargers would be sufficient as they "fast charge" my phone, however, these chargers don't fast charge properly using the wireless charger

    [​IMG]

    Grabbed one of the kids spare ipad charger from ebay and found it fast charged. It's just a bigger unit all round and also has 12v

    [​IMG]

    Secured the charger with some gorilla tape, nothing fancy at all, these units can't be seen.

    [​IMG]

    Voila! Fast charging while playing! :D

    [​IMG]

     
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