Mudgel’s Reflow Oven. A different path

Discussion in 'Electronics & Electrics' started by MUDGEL, Oct 4, 2018.

  1. MUDGEL

    MUDGEL Member

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    This thread began here. https://forums.overclockers.com.au/posts/17954371/

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    My build has deviated to the point where a new thread would be of benefit. Pics included.

    My reflow oven is a Sunbeam BT2600 just as Bleckers’ in the linked thread, with the exception that I will;
    1. Replace the metal resistive elements with Quartz ones from Uxcell in China. Via eBay reseller https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com.au/ulk/itm/391574144754
    2. Add a doubler plate to the rear oven wall from inside, reducing radiated heat emanating from the rear of the oven. I’ll use the crumb draw cut to fit.
    3. Elements will be wired up to individual SSRs. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com.au/ulk/itm/292295530690
    4. Using different elements requires modifications to accomodate different diameter and cable connections for the new elements.
    5. I had to go pretty far with disassembly so I could remove the original elements and preserve the shrouds that covered them.
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    Last edited: Oct 20, 2018
  2. aXLe

    aXLe Member

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    In regard to your question about the front panel - my front panel update was simply a flat piece of aluminium that i shaped to match the curve of the existing factory panel, then screwed it over the top using 4 x M3 countersunk screws. The overlay panel has the cutout for the switch. The original panel is still underneath, and I cut away what I needed to clear the switch. Does that make sense?
     
  3. OP
    OP
    MUDGEL

    MUDGEL Member

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    Understand. Thanks.
     
  4. Sammus187

    Sammus187 Member

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    Have finished my controleo3 build (pics at https://photos.app.goo.gl/JcNxEKVBhTXyzHyJA so I don't fill up your thread)

    The resistive elements really let it down in trying to keep to an ideal ramp profile - the power and insulation are amazing though! I'm tempted to pull it apart and replace it with the uxcell quartz elements - does 28.5cm seem like the right length Mudgel - like https://www.amazon.com.au/uxcell-In...541326795&sr=1-2&keywords=quartz+element+28.5

    That said, it really does the job fine with a tiny bit of profile tweaking, maybe not worth the hassle, especially after lining the whole thing with ceramic fibre blanket, that stuff is pretty painful to work with.
     
  5. OP
    OP
    MUDGEL

    MUDGEL Member

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    28.5 is a little short but the next size up (31cm) is rar too long.
    I did some heating tests which convinced me to replace the resistive elements. They struggle to get upto temp, maintain it stable and cool down far too slow.

    I’ve been sick so haven’t been able to add some finishing touches.
     
  6. Agg

    Agg Lord of the Pings

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    Any updates or photos of it completed?
     
  7. OP
    OP
    MUDGEL

    MUDGEL Member

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    Sorry Agg.No updates. Unfortunately having serious health issues that keep me away from a whole bunch of projects. As soon as I’m a little better I’ll get in and finish it and update here.
     
  8. shredder

    shredder Member

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    Looking forward to it. Get better soon I hope.
     
  9. aXLe

    aXLe Member

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    I'm thinking about making a vapour phase oven - still looking into the fine details such as retaining the galden, safety and so on.
     
  10. RobRoySyd

    RobRoySyd Member

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    Could you not retain the vapour with a layer of cold air?
    Galden is non toxic, non flammable so no safety concerns I can think of apart from not putting body parts in the vapour.

    Biggest downside is the cost of Galden, HT-270 is $1,200 for 7L
     
  11. aXLe

    aXLe Member

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    I think many ovens use a water cooling jacket around the top to re-condense the Galden. Yeah its pricey, but so long as you can keep it in the oven it should last a while. I have some contacts who would sell me a litre or less.

    Safety is a major factor - the vapour is invisible and if you stuck your hand in there you'd received 3rd degree burns or worse - I'd want a safety interlock on the lid or something.

    I've seen some pretty basic ones made from kegs and things like that - heating element of some sort and a rack that can be lowered into the vapour layer. Diyode magazine had a brief article on it in the 2nd or 3rd edition I think. No safety features and no timer on that one.
     

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