Monitor research Info explained I have some info on monitors etc to share, this will be a bit of a lesson on monitors so feel free to skip the bulk of this post if you already know this stuff. But I am posting it just to help others out who may be new like me to save them from asking for this and getting no replies or searching and no threads with this explained simply like I have done going through pages of google search. First I like to thank Joey at Jomac for taking his time last night to email back with a lot of info which I had asked on 3 forums without the full info given just snippits I didn't understand as it wasn't explained, I can't thank him enough for supplying the info and a little history lesson about it all. Some of this info below has been sourced from Joey, other stuff I found out totally on my own despite asking around. The Toshiba tubes like what I have are tri-sync 15/24/31KHz (if people own different tubes even the same one, that will need checking by actual testing of the yoke by someone) Joey explained the frequency is the horizontal scanning rate of the tube left to right when we know Hz as the vertical scanning or refresh rate top to bottom also known as page refreshing, both the horizontal and vertical are refresh rates as you would gather by now being opposite axis. All arcade monitor's vertical refresh rates are 60Hz, TV's are 50/60Hz NTSC/Pal respectively, secam etc use slightly different color and processing encodings at that rate and then new high end monitors can be up to 120Hz. Arcade monitor resolutions are usually EGA or CGA resolutions (don't confuse this with the color space / amount which is slightly different) the latter CGA being the common standard at 15KHz horizontal scanning rate which are lower than VGA the tri-syncs can do 640x480 max but weren't intended to do that originally, with some later, the last multisync tubes being able to do up to 1024x768 resolution. The chassis and tube are separate components don't think as them as the same piece and tied to each other. The chassis 'circuit board' are variable or generic chassis which is usually paired with a compatible tube the chassis may have specs higher than the tube can handle which is the most common now and running at those specs will damage and blow components on the board which is what I found out. Likewise running a compatible tube with higher specs than the chassis isn't as widely done anymore but just means you won't be able utilize the full range the tube can handle. As for the connector between D-Sub and pinout it seems there's no real difference they are both analog RGB signals, Don't get confused with thinking D-Sub is a special computer VGA spec while it shares the same connector which is actually called D-Sub-15, the signals wires vary slightly arcade monitors have less due to different functionality but both arcade monitors and computers I believe are both are using the same pins for the main RGB signals and both are analog signals as it is just that a connector the actual stuff is done in the processing of said signals from the source. An adaptor exists between D-Sub and pins some chassis come with them, I believe they are straight pass through but not sure, I found some on eBay but unsure on them as some use pots inline for each wire for adjusting color. A computer outputs 1V out on one of its signal pins, Arcade monitors input 4V (newer video cards can do 4V so double check if it's 1V you need to inject extra power some adaptors do this with a power pack), one would need a signal amplifier as well as a way to output the correct horizontal scan frequency most people as you might see from this thread and others recommend the J-Pac for the frequency control and amplifier as it's a all in one device but will only work on a PC and uses a Jamma harness and may be limited for advanced uses and configurations and you will still need a way to output the correct frequency which one can either use a modified video card specifically for arcade stuff Ultimarc sells them or software on the system, I did find a stand alone unit of the monitor side the J-Pac connector on ultimarcs page called the Video Amplifier which is said to be exactly the same as whats in the J-Pac, I'll be inquirung about this myself. There are stand alone units for both PC which down-convert the signal automatically but you won't get native resolutions and Consoles (PS2) that will do this also and also small footprint inline amplifiers which one could acquire or make to boost the signal if you have a native output. Don't get confused by the stand alone VGA unit I found on eBay, the output VGA is pass through the pins RGB are the conversion it's also not native and will downscale normal PC resolutions to CGA resolution, which for a game would be upscaled on the PC then downscaled back to CGA and most people reading this I hope would know what game console scalers are like with output quality. For proper boards and xxxx in one system etc no scan or other adaptor is required depending on the product as some only do 31k 640x480 as they are P4 based, upscaling the games, you might need a inline signal amplifier though for xxxx in 1 systems. For PC and consoles a amplifier and sync splitter is required. Some older consoles have options that output 15K RGB by default using scart adaptors, as 15K includes 480i normal TV spec but the sync rate needs splitting and the video amplified people have made their own circuits for this or you can find a premade solution. Please note: Why I say scan adaptor required is while a PC outputting the proper frequency and a inline amplifier on the signal will work just fine and is all you need, some adaptors have other components to stop you accidently feeding in a signal too high blowing up your chassis which I have already learned from. <-----> End Lesson For me I need to: Find or make a pin passthrough adaptor to convert back to Jamma harness Work out frequency scan adaptors for PC (ultimarc may have a stand alone unit) Work out if I want a modified videocard or software to do arcade resolutions. Work out one for console that PS2 I linked I may use Plan for anything else that needs doing For me I don't know if J-Pac is suitable as: I want native mouse/game controller support for emulation not just a keyboard encoder which the I-Pac offers. Also I don't know how many admin service buttons I'll be using I want flexibility in this regard which the I-Pac4 offers with more button support as I will be doing different things with the PC. Later I want a trackball and spinner I don't want to end up with 3-4 very similar and all in one devices that may conflict. Yes I looked at the ultipac and that still isn't suitable from there separate devices due to lack of extra button support. So this is where I am with my findings and research above which I hope helps someone if it does post below and let me know else I may feel I wasted my time typing all this up. So for now work on the painting still and go from there with what I know. I'll update the second post progress later. let me know if I should split some of that to the 3rd post and how to make it neater to read for all you.