Over the weekend I went to dads for easter brought him eggs and a couple gifts, did a little work to the admin box not much but enough to show that its starting to really come together. I also found a old midi only keyboard in the recycle bin a neighbour chucked out as he didn't know how to use it, so I pulled it out and took it to dads and we took it completely apart and are cleaning it up I'll post in music instruments on that. I have taken the box stuff home to do markups and work in my own time to finalise placements and testing etc. Here the box is glued together and just a basic position test. No issues with interfering with the coin chute. I glued a back piece on the box to make up space as a buffer where the hinges will go. I am toying with cutting a bit of the piece I glued on for a square tube for the wires for the lid detection switch, I'll post later with my idea and for input once I get everything out again. Also I need to work out the magnetic lid catch and may need to cut and glue another 'micro' buffer to the front of box/cp once we glue everything together for that, so there are still adjustments to be made. I had some test pieces the old test box I modified slightly to be a test of the lip with the led strip so I could see roughly how the inner module will be. I placed the test in the box as the back piece isn't all the way it has gaps on the ends for the lip and leds to fit snugly into. My dad had some spare thin aluminium I marked up for a better test of the inner box, he also had some thicker pieces I put aside which will be the proper inner shelf and bottom plate where the key latch is both of those are thicker and sturdy and just need sanding down (facing) once cut. Needed to adjust the test box as it was 1-2mm too wide (it's now 1-2mm undersize you can see), which is fine for testing as its a test the proper will be measured more accurately. It is starting to show how things are going to fit together, Here I am putting the test box under the cp with metal test insert holding the 100 Yen sticker as a mockup of everything mounted, so you can see the box and the lid etc. The led strip inside will fit inside the lip space on the sides and bottom you can see. You can also see I am leaving all the acrylic protector covers on until the box is finished glued, fiberglassed etc etc only peeling it where I need to work. Question? Just had a thought typing this right now, should I diffuse the light strip? If I do it would look way better and more pro all I need is a milky strip over the strip and I think that could look great. Yea I'll look into this once I build things more up, It'll look awsome than just having the stip showing bare on the edges. Answered my own question I will be cutting into that test aluminium for component fitting and a proper mockup and led testing as I have enough I can use 3 segments as a test. So here is things starting to work itself out. Next stages are working on hinge mounts the lid switch for the lights, lid magnetic catch and gluing fiberglassing the box onto the cp. As well working out the component circuitry etc. I will have another post asking some questions in a few days to a week or so on the lid catch and other things once I pull the stuff out again and start looking at marking things up. I have another question. Question 2? Thinking I could replace the parallel port with 2 network ports. Some custom game controller converters and video cards and other things have used network ports as the way to plug in controllers so was wondering if I should do that instead of parallel ports, that would allow each controller to be plugged in separate via adaptors. Was originally thinking it at the very beginning but chose parallel due to being able to use 9 pins like on the PS2 controllers even though the 9th pin is classed by some as unused. So may just stick with paralel.