Work is progressing. I had a set back while milling Z axis parts: the brass motor gear in my mill shredded itself leaving only flakes and dust where the teeth had been. I'd started a belt drive conversion ages ago but abandoned it as my lathe blew a gear and had some other issues. So after much struggling and kludge fixes on the lathe I now have the mill belt drive done. In the meantime I've got the main router epoxy pour done. It went ok and looks good now. I had a couple of stuff ups: 1. I tried to cover it with a suspended cloth to keep dust and chips out - the cloth dumped a load of fibres all over the epoxy... It didn't do that when I used it for the gantry epoxy cover. 2. I managed to droop the cloth on to the epoxy. It'd been curing for a few hours and so was starting to gel and a few humps were created by the contact, but still seemed to start to level / smooth. 3. Watch the heat - I'm using a pocket butane blow touch to get rid of bubbles. It also temporarily makes the epoxy flow easier (viscosity falls with rising temperature). However I went a bit overboard trying to fix the spots the cloth had touched and managed to cook a few small areas of epoxy. This meant I had to fish these cured discs / thin bits of epoxy out and the epoxy had to self level again. 4. I switched to fast epoxy for the dam sealing step on this last pour. This works much better, but pay attention to the pot time. I was a bit slow and had a pot start smoking then suddenly go off. Had to drop the cup on the concrete and the disposable cup melted. Despite those problems it looks like it's gone well overall. Tips for self leveling epoxy You need the right epoxy - slow, low viscosity for self levelling. I used West System 105 + 209 hardener. Certainly not cheap, but others have used with good results. Get the object as level as possible as you'll need less epoxy Clean the object then let it dry There are two main stages: A) Building a dam and sealing it B) Pouring the main epoxy A) The dam You need something the epoxy doesn't stick too. It won't stick to the non sticky side of most tapes. It will stick to metal and wood. I tried gaffer tape, duct tape, and blue painters masking tape for various parts. Definitely use the blue tape (also called 14 day painters tape). Advantages: 1. It's stiff and therefore forms a nice straight dam 2. It's low tack so doesn't pull your paint off, and it's possible to reposition if you don't apply it perfectly Gaffer tape works but is too sticky and pulls off paint, and is also hard to apply as well as the blue tape. Duct tape stretches and curls, so doesn't give a nice flat edge. I found a single layer of blue tape carefully applied worked well, with particular attention to the corners. You must then seal the dam. This is done by applying a small amount of epoxy around the join between the dam and the object. You only want a small amount - this is done by applying with a spoon or knife, not pouring. If you stick to a small amount it will bridge small gaps and hold in place with surface tension - if you pour too much gravity will overcome this and it will flow through the gaps. Use fast curing epoxy for this. I used West System 105+205 hardener. The fast curing epoxy tends to be more viscous (an advantage at this stage) and works quickly to seal gaps. I used very slow epoxy for my first couple of dam sealing and it was a pain - it's runnier and it has time to all flow out before it cures. Be ready for leaks. Tape doesn't really stick where the epoxy is running, but if you whack enough on, the tape sticking to either side of the area will be enough to hold it and you can create an effective barrier. Blutack works also and is of course mouldable, but try to avoid it. It won't adhere where the epoxy already is, but does get incorporated in to the epoxy edge. However I did use it effectively to physically cover small leaks that would have been unfixable otherwise. You'll need big lumps of it. Now you have to wait till the sealing epoxy is solid enough. It doesn't have to be fully cured / full strength. If you used fast curing epoxy (seriously don't even consider using slow) you can proceed to the main pour a couple of hours later. The main pour As mentioned above, you need slow curing low viscosity epoxy. Mixing in a large shallow dish gives you more pot time. Mix thoroughly but avoid vigorous mixing as you want to avoid introducing bubbles. I mixed in batches based on my mixing container size. When each batch is mixed, just pour it on. Spread out where you pour fairly evenly so the epoxy doesn't have to travel as far. Be aware that surface tension is a significant factor and there is a minimum thickness to self level. This will vary with the epoxy, and I'm not sure what it is, but I guess and good 2mm at least. You won't get self levelling with 0.5mm thickness. I used to spoon to spread the epoxy around a bit also. Fingers crossed you have no leaks. Now you need to get rid of bubbles. This is done with heat, either a small blow torch / gas soldering iron, or a heat gun. Do not use a hair dryer as the air flow is too much and will blow dust in. I opted for a small blow torch as I can use it for other things. Wait a little for the bubbles to rise then gently waft the torch over the surface. Don't stay in one area too long - you'll cook the epoxy and I'm sure burning epoxy fumes aren't good you for either. You'll probably need a few passes, it's surprising how much bubbles you'll have. Bigger bubbles cause significant surface irregularities. Often you'll only see that bubbles are present if you use look at the epoxy with a bright light, such that the epoxy is a mirror and you are looking at the light bulb on the surface of the epoxy. I left each pour a full week to achieve good strength before disturbing. Heating the epoxy components reduces viscosity. This is done by putting the bottles in a bucket of warm water. However, this reduces pot life / speeds up curing. Apparently heating the object to be poured on still gives the benefit of better flow but doesn't speed up curing, which would be ideal. Once your epoxy is cured you'll need to remove the fairly large meniscus. Be careful, the edges will be sharp. My hands are covered in cuts from my clean up. Use a file to break the edges then take down the meniscus. Epoxy files easily and doesn't clog a file like it will sand paper.