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OCAU Official Electronics and LCD/Case Modding FAQ (Updated 27/7/05)

Discussion in 'Electronics & Electrics' started by BlueSmurf, Jan 3, 2002.

  1. PappaSmurf

    PappaSmurf Member

    Jun 26, 2001
    A: most of the time it will be written/printed on the potentiometer, for example it might say "10K". This indicates it is a 10kOhm pot. However sometimes it's not.

    Get out your multimeter, and set it to the ohm/resistance setting.
    Set it to the lowest (smallest) to begin with... eg: 10ohms, as opposed to 10MOhms.

    Now, turn the knob on the pot all they way to one side - doesn't matter which way you turn it.

    Now, touch one probe onto the middle pin of the pot, and then touch the other probe onto one of the outer two pins - only one - and it doesn't matter which one (I know, choices are tough :p )

    If the multimeter reads "0.00", then start turning the pot, and you should see the number increase.
    When you have turned the knob all the way to the other side, the value should be at it's maximum, and this is the rating of the pot.

    Note: it is likely that you will have to change the setting on the multimeter, for example, if the pot is 10kohm, you won't get a succesfull reading if you have it set to 10ohm's max.

    Start with a low setting, and turn it up if needed.
    Last edited: May 12, 2003
  2. Odje

    Odje Member

    Jun 27, 2001
    there is a much easier way,

    all pot's will have their value marked on them in one of two forms. first being that the value will be written in plain english (eg, 10K), the Second being written with a series of 3 digits, i am not sure what this format is called, but it is very easy to understand, the first 2 digits is the value and the 3rd and last digit is the multiplier, so say if you have 223 then the value is 22 * 10^3= 22000R or 22K

    and even if you can't find the markings then get out your multimeter and put the probes on the two outer pins (instead of the middle and one outer) this will give you the value of the pot, regardless of the position of the wiper.
  3. OP

    BlueSmurf Dream it. Build it.

    Aug 2, 2001
    Baldivis, WA
    Dug this out of a thread that got ressurected.

    EDIT: i have been kindly offered pics of this process from ModTown. All rights to the images belong to ModTown and Carloshax who took the photos of his own fan painting job. Have a read of their casefan painting article here if you want some more help.

    Since i am up this early, i don't have much better to do till the shops open so:

    Painting A Case Fan. (A Guide By BasS-InJecTeD)
    Painting a case fan will almost certainly void your warranty. If you follow this guide you do so at your own risk. Neither i, nor Overclockers Australia can take any responsibility for what happens to you or your case fans while following this guide. This is not sponsored or supported by OCAU in any way, shape or form. Always use protective gear and paint in a well ventillated area. /end rant

    • Case fans
    • 800 and 1000grit wet&dry sandpaper (a couple of sheets should be enough, it's the grey stuff)
    • tweezers
    • fine tip, flat head screwdriver
    • primer or spray putty (good quality)
    • spray paint (good quality)
    • clear gloss (not necessary... but nice)
    • singer oil or WD40/RP7 lubricant

    Step One
    Pick your case fan. (Pabst, Panaflow and Enermax are all good, quiet brands, and Sunon are great performers too)

    Step Two
    Peel the "sticker" off the back of the fan and put it aside for later. A small piece of plastic should come off with the sticker, it's important to keep that so we can seal up the motor again later.

    Step Three
    You will now see the motor and the 'axle' that the fan spins on. There will be a small 'knob' on top of the axle... which will have either a black or clear (plastic or metal, depending on fan type) 'circlip' around it. This is what we need to take off in order to get the blades out of the fan. Depending on what tools you have, and how many hands you can borrow :))) there's a bunch of ways of getting this out. Generally you will need fine tweezers and a very fine flathead screwdriver to pry it out. Do not damage this circlip as it's what holds it all together. Once you get it out, put it aside for later.

    Step Four
    Once the circlip is off, grab the fanblades and pull them off the motor/body of the fan. Make sure you take note of which washer went where etc.

    Step Five
    If you intend to paint the whole fan, including the body, you will need to seal up the motor section. I used masking tape myself, but there would be easier ways. Just make sure no paint can get inside the motor as it may destroy it.

    Step Six
    Pick your paint. Note that some spray paints react badly to plastics (ie. melt them) so make sure you get a good quality paint that's not going to cause you problems later. Always test on something else first.

    Step Seven
    Sand back every piece that you intend on painting to make it as smooth as you can with some wet&dry sandpaper. It doesn't have to be REALLY smooth, but the smoother the better. Use about 800grit sandpaper initially and then work up to 1000 or 1200 grit for a really smooth finish. You could skip the sanding step, but your paint won't stick as well and you will end up having to paint your fans again eventually.

    Step Eight
    Once everything has been sanded properly, grab your primer/spray putty and give your fan a thin coat (don't let it form any drips, try and get the coats almost transparent, but still cover the whole fan). Wait for each coat of primer/spray putty to tack (about 20mins usually) and then do a few more coats until you are happy with it.

    Step Nine
    More sanding, this time just use the fine grade (1000 grit) sandpaper and smooth out your primer/spray putty. Make sure it has completely dried (a few hours at most) before you sand it back. What you are looking for is a smooth finish to the primer/spray putty but not getting back to black. If you accidentally sand too hard and get back to black, simple go back to step eight.

    Step Ten
    Once you are satisfied with your sanding jobs, grab your chosen spray paint. Give it a good shake and do a test spray before you start to make sure it's flowing and you like the colour. Then do some really fine coats (transparent), about 3 or 4 i suggest... Or until you have totally covered the primer/spray putty. Between coats, when the paint is dry, give it a light sanding with fine grade sandpaper to remove "orange peel" (the little bumps and stuff) and then do your next fine coat. Allow an hour or so between coats.

    Step Eleven
    Put your fan aside for the night (inside!) and wait till morning.

    Step Twelve
    After waiting all night for the sun to come up, grab your fan and take it back outside. If you are happy with how the paint job looks, then maybe just cover it in a clear gloss if you wish (DO NOT USE CLEAR GLOSS OVER CHROME PAINT! it will remove the chrome effect!) or go to step thirteen. If you aren't happy with your paint job, sand it back a little and spray it again. This should remove most imperfections and allow you to fix some mistakes.

    Step Thirteen
    Once you're satisfied with your new painted case fan, go back inside and get the bits and pieces you took out of the fan. Place them all back in the order they came off in, give it a little oil (a drop of 'singer' brand sewing machine oil is best.. but a VERY small amount of wd40/rp7 was good enough for me.) (Make sure you don't get the wd40/rp7 on your paint as it acts as a thinner.). Now you should have your circlip sitting there looking strange. This should be the last piece you put back in before putting the sticker back over it. Ensure you have kept the circlip because the fan will not function properly (fall apart generally and make heaps of noise) without it. To put the circlip back on, place it around the axle and try and clip it down in sort of the reverse action that you used to take it off, it should clip back into position with a clicking sound.

    Step Fourteen
    Clean up :D and put your new painted case fan in your PC. Snazzy isn't it? :cool:

    Tips & Tricks
    • When removing the circlip, do not bend it, it makes things much harder in the end.
    • When removing the 'guts' of the fan, but them in a safe place, like on a table, in the order they came out. That way it will be easier to put them back.
    • When sanding, cut small pieces out of the sheet of sandpaper and use it on the tip of your finger or a toothbrush to get the small edges.
    • When painting, use something like a coke bottle filled with sand or something similar to hold the fan blades in place above the ground.
    • Do one side at a time. Once you have completed the steps for one side, let it dry and do it for the other. This is if you want to have a reeeally perfect paint job. Remember that people will only be able to see one side of your case fan generally...
    • Put a dropsheet down ($2 plastic one from Bunnings). It saves you having to clean up, and it makes things a little easier. If you are like me and live in a unit, getting overspray on the driveway can get you in trouble. Nothing a little paint thinner or turps can't fix though.
    • Take your time. It may take you a day to do your painting, but it is really worth it in the end.
    • Read some other reviews on painting cases etc. They can offer some great tips that i might have forgotten to mention. It's always good to get a second opinion.
    So, did that help? ;)
  4. t_rex

    t_rex Member

    Dec 23, 2001
    3031 Melb
    Here, I whipped this up in mspaint just then :)
    To find what you want, cover it. eg, find V's, cover v, then you just do I x R
    Find R, cover R, then just do V / I :)


    Plus you can use the lower method to find out how many watts your Yum cha PSU is really capable of ;)

    It should be self explanitory, but if not, just ask :p
    Last edited: Nov 8, 2003
  5. DDsD

    DDsD @DDsD

    Jun 28, 2001
  6. DDsD

    DDsD @DDsD

    Jun 28, 2001
    Installing Fixed Cabling into your home FAQ

    Here is an official response from the ACMA on the issue for those thinking of cabling their own home on the sly..

  7. RObErT_RaTh

    RObErT_RaTh Member

    Sep 30, 2004
  8. Desttroy4

    Desttroy4 Member

    May 30, 2010
    all links are dead pretty much

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