Discussion in 'Other Toys/Hobbies' started by WarmedFawn, Oct 14, 2006.
Pros and cons of Petrol and Batterys?????
Battery are more torquey
Petrol lasts longer in the sense u dont have 20 mins of fun then it dies unless u have many packs, just top the fuel up.
Last time I checked petrol powered RC cars cost a lot more but also have a much higher top speed.
Top speed is debatble because you can change that with gearing.
A decent electric car, like a decent nitro car, come out around the same cost these days, even much more, once you've added your ESC, motor and multiple battery packs. With brushless modded motors and high capacity battery packs in tow, speeds are the same as nitro.
However - running costs of an electric car IMO are higher - with nitro all you need is fuel (not cheap though) and a glow plug replaced every few months. When properly tuned, both my nitro cars run for ~ 20 minutes off a single tank (I've a Losi XXX-NT and Savage SS 4.6).
Also there is brushless [electric] motor's that absolutely scream! so Electric will be able to keep up with Nitro (if you spend enough money).
I have RC Vehicles, 3 Nitro, 1 Electric. And the electric I got as a bit of fun for when I'm at the track and can't start the nitro yet (that and at 1/18 scale it's pretty cool).
True Nitro will probably cost you more to get into, then you have the ongoing cost of fuel and glow plugs (lets blindly assume your repair bills are about the same). Electric is only the cost of charging the batteries.
There is also the issue of noise, Nitro is loud, you can piss of the neighbours.
Do you wont on road or off road? I recommend off road in some form just because you can drive it in many many many many more places Road cars can be very limited. My first car was a road car, the last three have been off road.
Check out my vehicles here:
also check out the sub albums with all the racing pictures
In short, on on road car can't do this...
I think that nitro is a hell of a better experience, the noise, the smell and the incredible speeds. The biggest downside i found was the constant tuning and simple things like running it to lean would equal small disaster. Electric is fairly plug and go from what i can see.
Hmmm, i couldent just have one off road or one on road, what i would like is one of each but i think i would want petrol for off road and battries for onroad. The only thing is in the end i rekon i would use on road more. i dunno. I want all!
TRUST ME ON THIS
You think you will use onroad more but you are limited to smooth carparks, proper tracks or netball courts really.. I thought the same when I bought my Kyosho FW-05T and 3 weeks ago bout a HPI Savage X which are both nitro as nitro is more fun, but more maintenance.. Just the sound, the smell, the the I dunno but its better
Personal preference. You may have an idea of what you want now, but the only way to find out for sure is to dive in and see for yourself.
I like onroad. Offroad doesn't appeal to me at all.
I prefer electric. Nitro doesn't appeal to me at all.
YMMV (see previous post)
Also give plenty of thought on where you plan to run it. Are you going to head down to the track and race or just bash it around in parking lots? If you're going to race it, what classes does the track you want to race at run? Maybe head down to the track and have a look at what everyone runs/recommends. See what you like the look of.
I prefer electric personally.. ive got a brushless system being shipped to me right at this moment.
To get nitro equalling performance from an electric it ends up being very expensive because you need good batteries , a good motor, and all the other stuff like chargers. If you go brushless then you have pretty much no motor maintenance, but with brushed its either going to be slow, not last very long, or would require lots of maintenance depending on what turn motor you use.
But I like it because once you get your setup right and drivetrain reliable it just works. You plug the battery in and off you go.
Now I know that it was just because I bought a crap car as my first nitro which is why I had so many problems, but it was annoying spending 10 minutes getting it tuned every time I wanted to run it... It was very annoying not having reverse, and it was also annoying having to sprint after the car when it rolled to stop the motor stopping... (probably my crappy car was so ard to start )
Also I prefer electric as I can use it in the backyard without annoying the neighbors, and I don't get fuel stains all over the concrete in a backyward (only get black tyre marks )
I found half the time I was using my car was when friends/relatives came around and wanted to tear up the back lawn with it... and when that happens I think electric works better (especiialy as they tend to roll it alot but don't understand why you need to run and turn it back over).
But I can see how some people would prefer the sound and the speed of nitro, also monster trucks these days are all the rage and most of the electric monster trucks are pretty crappy. But if you want a smaller 10th scale car then I think electric is better.
I've run both a brushed electric 2wd and a nitro 4wd (Associated 10T and ofna pirate).
From a backyard bashing point of view.
Pros: best for plug n play, less maintanence, quieter.
Cons: potentially slower (depends on setup), short run time, charging batts,
Pros: potentially faster (again setup), more realistic, long run times.
Cons: More maintenience, Loud, can have "runaway" situations if it looses signal.
I have to say I personally like the nitro just because I enjoy the sound of a real engine sputtering and toping up the fuel instead of charging batteries. If your in a crouded urban environment I can see the neighbors complaining about the noise. If you plan to race check out your local clubs or tracks to see what formats they support.
and yes, off road can go virtually anywhere where as onroad is extreamly limiting.
One way to avoid the runaway situation is to just put a spring on the throttle servo. I could turn off my transmitter and the spring puts on the brakes.
Why not a fail safe?
Already had the spring.
The spring will only work when you have a complete power loss situation, if you still have power and go out or radio range your RC will still motor on with the last commands you gave it.
On the other hand, the fail safe only saves you when you have power available. Without power your car will continue to move along with the last command you gave it.
To be 100% safe you need to use both the throttle return spring and a fail safe...
Go the nitro! I bought my first one, a Hyper7 a couple of months ago and it's awesome. I spend nearly as much time on maintenance and repairs as I do driving it but that's just part of owning nitro. They may be as fast as each other(very debatable but I haven't seen a decent electric car in action) but nitro is just so much better. The sound the smell.......
I would assume there is a lot less maintenance on electric though so if you don't like fixing things I would steer clear of nitro.
Well actually, besides keeping it tuned and putting in a little after run oil from time to time, there really isn't anything that hard about Nitro. As for fixing things, both an electric and a Nitro truck will break if you run into a wall.... nitro doesn't make it break any more. It all about how FAST it hits the wall and electrics can go just as fast at nitros when setup right.
I still lean towards Nitro. Better run time and more "manly" that those girlie electric cars!
I prefer Nitro. Raced offroad 1/10 electric when I was a kid for 5 years (Cougar 2000) and it was not cheap when I earned $40 a week doing a paper round.
Now I got back into Nitro 1/8 buggy racing and it is awesome fun. People dish it and say nitro buggies are high maintenence, no lie there but thats part of the fun, like a real car, tuning the engine, ajusting the gearing and chamber, tyre choice ect. It is a pricey hobby but my latest buggy, a Hyper 8 Pro is pretty unbreakable (touch wood).
Fuel is pricey though, around $10 a litre, tyres are pricey, $50-120 for a full set and if you want to race at a competitive level you can easily spend $2000 before you hit the track...
Racing both i can share a few of my thaughts,
batteries- one of the three big money wasters - good batteries can cost from 60 dollars upwards, depending on the milli amp rating and the rating of the cells. if you wanna race just for fun, 3300/3700 milli amp unmatched packs will suffice and u can pick up 4 for 100 dollars or so. if you dont look after them they may not last more than a season. runtime on average per pack is 6-8 mins in a 10th scale on road car depending on the motor. The higher the milli amp rating, the longer the runtime and the more punch the car will have.
charger - you will need a good charger discharger- a team much more, eagle racing cdc, novak etc. then you need to decide weather you want 12 or 24 volt or both. some racers have two or more chargers on the go at a time as a typical battery can take between 20 to 40 mins to charge.
motor - basically, the amount of winds and strands dictates the performance.
a 27 turn motor or stock motor is the slowest/basic motor, and going all the way down to say 5 or 6 turn mod motor witch really scoot. a lower turn motor will chew a battery up faster than i highe turn motor.
speed controller - this is what controlls the speed and accelleration of the car.this has to be matched to the motor. they are rated to a certain limit i.e. speed controller x can take motors from 27 turn down to a 16 turn etc. higher dollar ones give you more features like power curves, better heat dissipation, braking programes/ accelleration curves etc
gears: be prepared to spend a bit of money on different gearing. different tracks and grip levels require changes to gearing to be competitive.
fuel - obviously u use a lot, but u can make it yourself for much cheaper, but the race mixes are pretty good these days. good thing with nitro is no charging batteries and the associated mess around.
Engines - can require constant tuning, even multiple times in a race meet. topping up the fuel on the starting line after a warm up is the only draw back i see and you need a pit crew to handle the car before the race on the start line. rebuilds can be a pain in the but to.
Tires - the foam tires are mainly used, and u may find u need things like tires truers etc that shave the tire to a certain height as the tire diameter changes drasticaly when the foam wears and this can effect your rollout and gearing.
In terms of damage- i usually see more damage with electrics. seem to have more fragile suspension, arms and chassis etc.
Generally, gas isnt usually raced in doors so theres a few limits there.
buying parts - i know this may start a debate - but most racers buy over seas. the local hobby shops for the most part mark up around 100% - i know this for a fact - on top of allready extortionist wholesale pricing. overseas products can often be baught and shipped to your door cheaper than wholesale price in australia.
any way just my 2c