Precision 3D Printer Build - Worklog

Discussion in 'Hobby Engineering' started by aokman, May 28, 2019.

  1. OP
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    aokman

    aokman Member

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    Great to hear :) be sure to let me know how you got to with the 0.9deg steppers, great to hear other people are trying to make them work :)
     
  2. hlokk

    hlokk Member

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    PWM control via a MOSFET + PID tuning :thumbup:


    If you're massively overdriving your heaters, you're likely to run into longevity issues. Just because they can do 48v doesnt mean they'll last at 48v :lol:



    Considering the huge size of the thing, are you adding additional bracing for for extrusions? I was worried at first you were going to be using wood seeing as there was a board on the dropsaw :lol:. I'm assuming you're going with a coreXY setup?
     
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    aokman

    aokman Member

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    Not really following any off the shelf designs directly, it will be my own design but utilising some features of the CoreXY design but mostly high end resin 3D printers which I work on daily :)

    Yes the extrusion will be heavily braced where needed for rigidity. The bed will be 4 sections of 40160 extrusion bolted together then surfaced :)
     
  4. OP
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    aokman

    aokman Member

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    More toys have arrived :) managed to find a vertical drilling jig that will hopefully give me straight drill and tapping on the extrusion. Unfortunately I cannot find a drill press that will accomodate a piece 600mm tall. Also got some high quality estop switches, Sutton tooling and extrusion / angle extrusion :)

    [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
  5. OP
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    aokman

    aokman Member

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    Ok so took a week to ponder the meaning of life and think about the designs some more. Decided to mock up the build plate to get some idea's, the right angle extrusion is 4mm thick. May or may not be enough rigidity, time will tell.

    It is all just rough cut at the moment, everything will be milled to final dimensions :)

    [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
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  6. OP
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    aokman

    aokman Member

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    Ok so the first of the mill tooling arrived today, not terribly exciting but an expensive purchase. Got word the new mill will be delivered next week and installed the day after. Just been getting things ready rebuilding the air compressor and getting lifting equipment organised :)

    [​IMG]
     
  7. tumutbound

    tumutbound Member

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    I thought you were building a 3D printer not a mill?
    Can't see much need for such a tool on a 3D printer.
     
  8. ShadowBurger

    ShadowBurger Member

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    love the '3D-Taster'
     
  9. OP
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    aokman

    aokman Member

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    Everything has to be milled to tight tolerences including the bed which needs to be face milled

    Unfortunately chasing that last 10% of precision takes 90% of the effort :lol: slapping together extrusion really isn’t that accurate unfortunately :(

    It will all make sense once the tooling arrives as this won’t be the only project it is used for
     
    Last edited: Aug 23, 2019
  10. tumutbound

    tumutbound Member

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    Didn't realise you had a mill. Nice bit of kit that. Hope you bought spare tips :)
     
  11. OP
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    aokman

    aokman Member

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    meh its aluminium, its like butter for carbide :lol:

    they don't taste very nice surprisingly?
     
  12. arytel

    arytel Member

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    Certainly a need precise is precise.
     
  13. tumutbound

    tumutbound Member

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    I meant spare tips for the Taster.
     
  14. OP
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    aokman

    aokman Member

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    Oh...yes hahaha

    [​IMG]
     
  15. Cpt Watermelon

    Cpt Watermelon Member

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    5000rpm is the optimal speed to remove the dial cover.
     
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    aokman

    aokman Member

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    [​IMG]

    Ok so the mill is delayed till next Tuesday :upset: was really hoping to get stuck into it this weekend but my precision ground vices arrived today so here is some engineering porn :D

    They are import vices at 30KG a piece and I had concerns about the quality obviously especially for how much they cost but I was happily surprised! 0.01mm deviation across the ways. Super impressive! You know something is really flat when your engineers square keeps getting stuck to it :lol:

    [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]

    Obligatory lifting equipment...

    [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Aug 30, 2019
  17. m3k

    m3k Member

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    curious how you're gonna do bowden over 600x600x600

    prob need a phat ass extruder with the longest order of Capricorn tube :p and an oil seasoner-

    but i would recommend chucking a e3d titan aero or something on it- more e step resolution and less filament compression and since you're using those really accurate sanyo denki steppers it'l only work in your favor going to direct geared down

    plus the mass of the cross beams unless u chuck a tech2c and go carbon fiber hollow tubes on bushings is going to be way heavier than any extruder/hotend setup

    prob wana do volcano block so u can swap out to 0.6 /0.8 nozzle because printing at 0.4 at 60x60 sucks. man it sucks at 30x30 having a printer run over 48h id probably also look into setting up some thermal fuses for safety because a printer that large will be printing for dayyyssss

    and if you use thick enough belts at a good tension and S-curve acceleration profiling you will be able to print really quick without too much issues with ghosting

    I highly rate duet wifi they can push pretty big steppers - maybe not as big as yours. but you already know what you're doing you can break out a duet to other custom steppers but yeah those trinamics are nice - gets rid of alot of jerky steps with 1/256 steps and the interpolation

    anyway really cool to see - keep it up!
     
  18. ShadowBurger

    ShadowBurger Member

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    zesty nimble extruder. remote stepper mounting, direct drive
     
  19. m3k

    m3k Member

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    yea its alright but even that cause of the wormgear has its limits and little bit of lash
    admitedly im only hearing this third party though.
     
  20. ShadowBurger

    ShadowBurger Member

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    lash is okay, only affects the extrusion when changing direction for a retract. just measure the total runout of the drive 'train' and add that to your retraction distance
     

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