Precision 3D Printer Build - Worklog

Discussion in 'Hobby Engineering' started by aokman, May 28, 2019.

  1. djdude1010

    djdude1010 Member

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    Wow this thing looks great. Can't wait to see it completed.

    80/20 is such a nice material to work with.

    Would love to try and make a CNC one day. Similar sort of build work.
     
  2. Cererus

    Cererus Member

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    Looks good but as an ex tool maker I shudder at the pics of micrometer/g clamp.
    This thing is looking like a mill not a printer, why the vices?
     
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    aokman

    aokman Member

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    Not using it as a clamp :lol: was measuring the ways to see if the height is consistent end to end with a gauge block under it. The vices are for milling the extrusion / will be face milling the bed, they can open to 200mm and can also be split to create one large vice across the bed.
     
    Last edited: Sep 10, 2019
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    aokman

    aokman Member

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    After months of preparation... it finally arrives!

    [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
  5. Butcher9_9

    Butcher9_9 Member

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    That must have set you back a few dollars. BF20 is like $2k+ so I fear the BF50 cost.
     
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    aokman

    aokman Member

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    A lot, it may look similar to a BF20 but shares nothing really other than the look, factory fitted DRO, pneumatic draw bar, Z and X axis power feeds, ISO40 taper and 2.5kW gear driven spindle. 600KG with the base :upset:
     
  7. Butcher9_9

    Butcher9_9 Member

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    Yeah mills go up in price really fast. I have a pretty small one (Bit smaller than a BF20).

    I went and checked and they are like 10K, I hope you like metal working.
     
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    aokman

    aokman Member

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    Love it! It has been a dream machine of mine for a long time and this project was ideal for it
     
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    aokman

    aokman Member

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    An action packed week so far! Was a VERY difficult lift with this mill, so many hurdles that had to be overcome but it is now in its new home :) also attached an example of the work it will be doing with the vices.

    [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Sep 12, 2019
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  10. m3k

    m3k Member

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    kinda - some filaments care more than others removing as much lash as possible can get you to print very small islands and tiny features without oozing and quicker shorter retracts causing much sharper start and end loops and much sharper looking prints just the nature of the beast u can compensate but sometimes whats best is a direct drive-

    but like if you're rapid prototyping who cares- but if you're trying to make some FDM artwork that needs little to no sanding and priming etc then you get a bit try-hard about backlash not so much in the extruder but the whole stystem because shifted layerlines look like butthole and make everyone think 3d printing sucks but when the layers are perfectly ontop of eachother people respect the quality alot more and it also makes finishing less difficult

    ive found preloading axis the best to increase repeatability and make the layers look the most consistent- ironically very canter-leaved printers (which ive found people have such a problem with) - with direct drive tend to have wicked good surface finish when printing slow- because everything is "resting" in the same position every layer at a time.. its great

    a older printer that comes to mind is the up plus 2 or the new cetus etc



    back on topic i love the mill... thank you so much for sharing
     
    Last edited: Sep 13, 2019
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