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Project IV - Lian Li D600 Liquid Cooled Build

Discussion in 'Extreme and Water Cooling' started by Kismet, Sep 6, 2014.

  1. Kismet

    Kismet Member

    Joined:
    Sep 4, 2014
    Messages:
    57
    ==============
    The IV build
    ==============

    Hi everyone. I'm new to posting. I have been watching for a while as I designed my new computer and it's liquid cooling system. I don't have a lot of photos to share from the construction, but I have learned a few things and thought I should share what I learned and also what I am still having problems with. Right now my computer is still stuffed full of paper towel as I test it and watch for leaks.



    Computer
    ========

    Lian Li D600 cube case
    Gigabyte Z97x-Gaming G1 WiFi Black Edition
    Intel Core i7 4790k
    Kingston Hyper x Beast 2400 (2 x 8 = 16) (Runing at only 2100 because 2400 wont boot)
    Nvidea 9800GTX (recycled from old system while I save for a EVGA Hydro)
    EDIT: Video card was replaced with EVGA GTX 780 Hydro on page two of this build.
    Samsung EVO 120gb SSD
    Seagate 2gb
    Seagate 1gb
    EVO_BLUE 2.0 850 watt PSU
    NZXT Sentry 3 Fan Controller
    Recycled Gigibyte Krypton Mouse
    Recycled G15 keyboard



    Cooling
    =======

    XSPC D5 Photon 170 Reservoir/Pump Combo
    Alphacool NexXxoS Monsta 420mm
    XSPC FLX Tubing Clear UV 7/16ID 5/8OD 2m
    XSPC G1/4 Black Chrome 7/16 Compression Fitting V2
    Swiftech Apogee XL CPU Water Block
    Aero Cool Shark Fan (140mm x 3 and 120mm x 2)
    Custom made Acryic mount for resiviour to raise resiviour 6cm from motherboard tray. Improves air flow and cable/tube routing.
    PrimoChill Ice - Clear
    B.E Products steem produced Distailled Water x 2
    Valcrow cable ties



    Software
    ========

    Windows 7 x64 Pro
    WinRamTech RAMDisk Enterprise x64 (Used to hold ALL temp files, caches, etc so HDD is almost never written to)
    CoreTemp & RainMeter to monitor performance and temps



    Method
    ======

    Motherboard, CPU, RAM, PSU, and HDD installed as per normal.

    Installed 420 Radiator in the back of the drive side using original 140mm case fans in push configuration. Pull could be added on the back of the case, but appears unnecessary given the current performance. I had to use washers for the push fans due to the tiny screw head and obtain matching black screws for the back of the case.

    Replaced front fans with Aero Cool Shark Fan, mounting the 140mm ones under the front cover instead of inside with the motherboard. I needed the extra room due to the case being short.

    Mounted reservoir using a hollow acrylic block which permitted me to run hoses and cables behind it. .

    Loop order is currently Res, Pump, Radiator, CPU block, Motherboard block, reservoir.
    Filling the loop took Almost 2L, thus the need for the distilled water to make up the difference.
    The AlphaCool 420 radiator took a lot of shaking over 4 hours to get all the air bubbles out of it. In fact it held 1L of air bubbles and would have run the pump dry if I wasn't constantly refilling the reservoir while shaking out the bubbles.

    Cables were tidied up using Velcro cable ties as the stiff PSU and SATA cables kept pulling off the case mounted brackets. Perhaps later I will change the cables for something more pliable. Either way I have a bit more to do before the cables are properly tidy.



    Problems
    ========

    Lian Li D600 case doesn't have enough room behind the motherboard to use most of the cable routing holes. They are blocked by the frame for the drive bays. I may try a set of flat extension cables to fix the problem later.

    Lian Li D600 Case is shorter than it looks which limits the video card length when using a tube type reservoir.

    Fans can be mounted on other side of the case under the cover, but there isn't room for dust filters, and it restricts airflow. I will try to score some 140x15 fans to resolve this issue.

    Shark Fin fans require 60% power to run reliably. The auto settings of the NZXT Sentry 3 Fan Controller attempts to reduce it to 40%, stalling the fans.

    Ram will not run at the max 2400 speed. I suspect I need to learn more about how to correctly set it.

    EVO_BLUE 2.0 850 watt PSU has annoyingly short motherboard cables.

    I have no way to drain the radiator via its drainage plug due to there being no room to put a fitting under it. Ideally a hole could be drilled in the bottom of the case to access the drain port. (if I can work out how to correctly locate it without putting holes in the wrong places!)

    Do not use the mounting instructions that come with the XSPC D5 Photon 170 Reservoir/Pump Combo. They are WRONG. The position of the mounting holes are not 155mm apart. On my one they were 158mm apart. Make sure you measure it yourself as XSPC told me they have a margin of acceptable variation in manufacturing which they don't mention in their documentation when it states the holes are 155mm apart :(

    XSPC G1/4 Black Chrome 7/16 Compression Fitting V2 are pretty good so long as you use the correct 10c or 20c coin. Some of them have a larger slot that others. If your use a 10c coin in the ones made for a 20c coin you can damage the fitting.

    When buying "3pin to 2x 3pin" Y cables for fans, make sure they connect the tachometer wire for at least one of the fans or your fan controller will think the fan is not turning. Even if the cable is listed as 3pin, it might not have the 3rd pin connected. I ran into this problem with Phanteks 3pin Y Splitter Cable, which is really only wired for 2 pins despite the product description indicating it to be a 3pin splitter.



    Conclusions
    ===========

    The main thing I am not happy with is the Lian Li D600 case because of it's cable routing difficulties and unexpected short length which restricts video cards. I think I will go for a Horizontal mounted cube case from Mountain Mods next time, unless Lian Li make their case a 2 inches bigger in each direction. ( hint hint )

    I am pleased that I was able to build the cooling loop without leaks or frying my shiny new motherboard, and that it is keeping everything so cool with the only fan sound I can hear coming from the PSU. The EVO_BLUE 2.0 has a fairly loud fan for the small amount of air it seems to move, but it has a blue light in it, so it must be good :)

    I am happy that the system is running stable at 4.4ghz with a nice safe 45c max temp when I push it hard. I feel this leaves plenty of room for the temp to go up safely during the hot weather. Previously the temp hit 90c just from installed windows using the supplied intel fan.

    Testing the water cooling the cpu has a max temp of 45c while running novabench - which didn't really get all 4 cores going fully so I switched to Prive95 for testing. The idle temp is 15c. PCH temp is a constant 41c. System is at 25c. A water temp of 18 measured at its hottest point before it goes back into the reservoir.

    I have not overclocked the CPU yet and probably wont until the i7 4790k gets a bit older and starts to struggle with newer software. Though I will give it a test to determine it's max stable speeds for bragging rights. Looking at the easy tune software for the motherboard it appears 4.7ghz is possible using the preconfigured settings. I seem to be getting really good temperatures, so I might be able to hit 5 safely.



    Questions
    =========
    Can a D5 pump have its speed altered via a fan controller that has 15 watts per channel? The screw for adjusting speed is difficult to access, thus my pump is on full while I figure out how to lower it when needed without the use of a mirror and L shaped screw driver.

    Where can I buy, and what is the best hard tubing and fittings? I want to use hard tubing and L fittings to rebuild the loop. I used 7/16 hose and compression fittings because it was all I was able to buy. PcCaseGear appears to be the only supplier left in Melb and they told me they are getting out of the water cooling market, thus the limited stock of mismatched parts.

    I'd love to build most of the loop from metal rotary fittings, but how do you order the right ones when their size information is often not included? (ie. between motherboard block and CPU block)

    I have a bottle of Mayhems Aurora Nebula blue which I am dying (pun intended) to put into the computer, but I have heard bad things about it. opinions? Can I mix it with my Primochill Clear which is listed as having next to no additives. Or do I need to drain it all and fill it with distilled water first? My loop has only been up for 24 hours now.


    All advice is welcome, good a bad. It is how we all learn.


    Kismet.


    ps. How do I upload images?
     
    Last edited: Sep 13, 2014
  2. OP
    OP
    Kismet

    Kismet Member

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    Photos

    This first photo shows the upgrade from clear coolant to the Aurora Blue liquid. The effect is spectacular, but it doesn't last very long.


    Click to view full size!



    This brief photo log shows the water cooling loop and fan install.


    Click to view full size!



    Rebuild to remove failed Aurora coolant. Added 45 degree fittings to neaten up the tubes. Added EVGAGTX 780 hydro video card. Before and after photos.


    Click to view full size!




    This [missing] photo set is of the radiator and cabling behind the motherboard. [yet to be completed]
     
    Last edited: Sep 13, 2014
  3. mad_mic3

    mad_mic3 Member

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    use ocau pix, when you upload your image, copy the code from the 2nd box from the top, than paste it in here
     
  4. havabeer

    havabeer Member

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    Talk to a guy named saate on these forums or goto his site www.rocketscience.mx

    I used his fittings and they're great and he is a really helpful bloke
     
  5. juzz86

    juzz86 Member

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    Hope this helps mate.
     
  6. OP
    OP
    Kismet

    Kismet Member

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    @havabeer

    Thank you. I had a quick look and he is selling fittings for coper pipes. Interesting.. very interesting... Thank you.

    @juzz86

    Guess I will leave the pump running on high for now. I cant hear it anyway so I guess there is no harm in it.

    Crossfire fittings to adjust length. Cleaver! I could use shorter ones to compensate for different heights too. I was wondering how to use L shaped fittings to join the cpu block to the motherboard block. Not just length but height. This will work a treat! thanks.

    How do you screw both sides? I guess one side will need to be a rotary fitting so it can be screwed in?




    Update Build
    ========

    I decided to bite the bullet and I put in the aura stuff this morning. For the first time I can tell that the water really is moving through the tubes. I find it comforting to know it is moving at a decent rate of knots.

    After running for over an hour I can see it slowly separating in the reservoir, with a layer of clear blue water forming on top of the sparkle layer. Fortunately all my blocks have their exit on the lower edge, so I expect that will stop it settling in them. I'm a bit worried about the radiator because it has a large reservoir built into the bottom. If all the sparkles vanish that is where they will be.

    I think it would work (mix) best if the inlet was via the top of the reservoir which I originally wanted to do until I thought about air bubbles going back up the tube when the pump/PC was off. Perhaps I should just knock off the air pump from the fish tank! LoL

    I disconnected the light inside the reservoir after putting in the aura stuff as I could no longer see the light at all. I recommend using a while light and not a blue or other colour because the sparkles only look nice under white light. I have UV tubing too, but I cant find UV LEDs anywhere so I can't say how it looks with the aura stuff yet.

    Important stuff...

    Temps are: 26c cpu, 20c water, 16c room while playing movies and using the forum. Got to mid 50's last night playing games. So much better than topping 90c just installing windows. They should not sell i7 4770k cpu's without water cooling IMO.


    Click to view full size!


    Today's Idea
    ========

    I think I should install a T fitting with a drain pipe on the inlet into the reservoir, so I can feed new liquid in the top of the reservoir and have the pump cycle it through the loop and out the drain just before it goes back into the reservoir. I am guessing I will need a T fitting and two valves so I can redirect the flow.
    I wish pccasegear still sold those snap fittings. That would be ideal. I could just plug in a drain/filling tube when needed.


    Question
    ======

    Gigabyte's hardware monitor says my CPU is at 18c, while coretemp says it is 26c. Which one is right?


    I'm still a but confused about posting photos. Seems like I have to upload them elsewhere on the internet and then link to them in the forum?
     
    Last edited: Sep 6, 2014
  7. juzz86

    juzz86 Member

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    I have a few of them, but not in the current loop.

    You can screw the sleeve and extension separately, so no rotaries required. You will probably need female-female thread converters though. If you PM the dude on eBay he'll cut you 10% off and invoice you directly :thumbup:

    EDIT: temps are good. You just need to keep the water under 60 as that's where pumps, tube and fitting platings are rated to.

    I'd believe HWMonitor/CoreTemp over the BIOS. My old MSI board used to over report by about 7 degrees, all depends on placement of sensor.

    Try a free imgur account for your photos, when you upload them use the 'direct link' in IMG tags to show them on both desktop and mobile :)
     
    Last edited: Sep 6, 2014
  8. OP
    OP
    Kismet

    Kismet Member

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    When I said the temp got to 50 playing games, I was talking about the cpu. The hottest the water has gotten is 22 so far.

    I have the water temp sensor going to the fan controller so I can watch it, and I set up coretemp to put the computer into sleep if the cpu got to 70c. I figure coretemp will shut down the computer long before the water gets anywhere near 60c.

    Thanks for the warnings. I didnt know there was a 60c limit on the loop.


    That sounds good. So I could use two short ones, two L connectors, and a long one to link the motherboard's block with the cpu block. The short ones to compensate for the height difference between the motherboard and cpu blocks.

    I have wondered if those rotary fittings with 3 or 4 rotations would work as a link. Being able to rotate them so much to make height and length adjustments.


    Thanks. I have coretemp feeding RainMeter for a desktop graph at the moment. Good to know its giving the right results.


    Can you see the two photos I have added so far. I finally worked out what mad_mic3 meant by ocau pix. Thanks mad_mic3!


    I know my rid isn't even in the same legue as the others posted here. Which is a good thing. All the inspiring rigs here give me something to aim for. :D

    Kismet.
     
  9. havabeer

    havabeer Member

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    these fittings will fit all 1/2" rigid pipe so acrylic, stainless, copper as long as its 1/2" (12.7) OD they'll fit
     
  10. juzz86

    juzz86 Member

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    You should be proud that your first effort is so solid mate, don't belittle it. Those temps are better than a lot of other rigs, and if you're not cracking thirty on the water outside Tassie, that's a fine effort.

    We can give you a few pointers, but no-one knows what's gonna look shit hot in there except you, the person staring at it all day :thumbup:

    Pix doesn't work for Tapatalk, but yep they're working fine otherwise, and pix is in-house so it's a good service to use.

    Also says a fair bit about that Swiftech block, I thought it would be a good performer after the old Apogee and from your temps it seems the business.

    EDIT: Yep the multi-rotary fittings will work as links and can look very good in the right build. There's one on here that had a loop made entirely of fittings somewhere, and it looks beastly. Fucking expensive way to make a loop though.
     
  11. OP
    OP
    Kismet

    Kismet Member

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    @havabeer

    Oh good. I have to do something about the outlet from the pump(res) to the radiator. It is meant to be running behind the res but bulges out over the video card because I couldn't get any fittings for tight turns.

    Having some hard acrylic tube run behind the res and over the top to the radiator will be a lot better than how it is now.





    @juzz86

    The swiftech block has a lot of copper in it. It's a big heavy beast. Looking down the barb fittings I could see it angled the flow onto the block at 45 degrees. There is no inlet or outlet. Bother of the barbs are on the far edges of the block which leaves plenty of room for the fittings. I decided to have it flow from top to bottom through the block to avoid any possibility of warm water pooling. In my head I could see the possibility of water swirling back on itself as gravity fights the current.

    The swiftech block documentation is crap! It has pictures and no words. Some of the details in the picture were so subtle it took me 10 minutes to figure out what that picture was telling me. For anyone using one, you have to peal off the sticky paper from the little white sponges on the back plate. They then stick the back plate onto your case while you line up the screws from the block.

    The screws are spring loaded and come with these sleeves on them to ensure you cant over tighten and cant under tighten. You just turn the screw until it bumps up against the sleeve.

    Other than that the block went on like a dream. It came with TIM-MATE TM1 thermal compound. With a thermal conductivity of 5.0W/m-K. And thermal impedance of 0.034c-in/W.


    The whole thing!!! Wow.. that will cost a bit. I've got 2m of hose in my build because the radiator is around the back. I'd need around 40 fittings or $1200 worth!

    I quite like how some people have used the hard acrylic tube for short runs on the motherboard. That would look nice with this aurora stuff. Either that or a dark metal rotary fittings would suit my build.



    Anyone got a suggestion about video cards? Preferably one or two that can be added to the loop. So they would need to come with or have available a decent water block for them.

    I was looking at the EVGA stuff in the nvidea line. I was looking at the 780, but might have to go for something in the 700 line if I am to afford it with water cooling. I hope to have around $700ish to spend on it next week.

    My poor old 9800gtx is getting a bit old now after 6 years of faithful service it needs to be retired to stud.
     
  12. OP
    OP
    Kismet

    Kismet Member

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    Thanks :cool:


    I was thinking about putting some rubber feet on the drive side of the case and laying it on it's side so the window is up. Then I can enjoy the blue fans and the view inside the case at the same time. Hows that for an extreme can mod!
     
  13. OP
    OP
    Kismet

    Kismet Member

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    DISASTER HAS STRUCK

    Mayhems Aurora Nebula Blue Concentrate coolant dye stuff has failed bad!

    My computer has been on non-stop for the last 20 hours since I put the stuff in and it is all gone. Just like the issues other people reported in forums, mine has gotten lost inside the loop somehow. It was at least 90% gone within 12 hours, but its totally clear this morning after 20 hours.

    The particles that make up the effect seem to have gotten stuck throughout the loop. I can see some of it is caked up on the leading edges of compression fittings inside the tubes, a fair amount has settled in the bottom of the reservoir despite the inlet being on the bottom to blow water over it. The rest must have gotten stuck inside the blocks and radiator as I cant see it anywhere else.

    I have to say DO NOT USE Mayhems Aurora Nebula! Ever! Not even if the guy at the shop tells you that he has used it for a year without any problems.

    When I received my Aurora coolant in the mail friday I contacted PLE Computers about the coolant. The bottle said it was "A short term effects liquid not a long term coolant". I contacted PLE Computers for a refund and pointed out that I purchased it from their site because it was listed as a coolant with a "never ending" effect.

    The guy from the shop replied to my email to reassure me that it was a coolant and would be ok to use long term with my equipment.

    Now I have to clean out a 420 (80mm) radiator, reservoir, tubing, cpu block, and remove the manufacturers block from my gigabyte motherboard to clean it. Pretty dam sure that will void my warranty.

    I'm furious!

    Kismet the furious


    EDIT: Temps are up too. 28c idle instead of the normal 15c. Water is also hotter at 21c. PCH is running at 44c instead of 41c. The stupid particles must be clogging up the water blocks and the radiator :(
     
    Last edited: Sep 9, 2014
  14. Kommandant33

    Kommandant33 Member

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    Deminirilized water and liquid utopia is all you need, if you want to run with a blue colour theme, buy blue tubes.

    as for the water temp, what was the ambient temp?
     
  15. OP
    OP
    Kismet

    Kismet Member

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    primachill liquid utopia ... is that in the premixed stuff too. pccasegear only seem to have the premix and dyes left in stock.

    Ambient temp was under 20c. when I took my initial measurements the ambient temp was 25 and I didn't have the case cover on for proper air flow. I now have the cover on so the 5 fans on the front and pumping air into the case, thus the cooler ambient temp.

    Pretty sure the stuff has tinted my tubes blue now, not that I can tell with all the blue fans lighting up the case.

    thanks for tips.
     
  16. OzTurkish

    OzTurkish Member

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    Dont think you can get liquid utopia in aus anymore..... maybe try frozencpu
     
  17. OP
    OP
    Kismet

    Kismet Member

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    On further investigation of the problem I have found out that both my reservoir and cpu block are listed as incomparable with this Aurora stuff on their website.

    I'm really angry now because I sent a list of my hardware to the shop and they told me it was ok to use the coolant with my hardware.

    :upset:
     
  18. Kommandant33

    Kommandant33 Member

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    What shop did you use? Sorry if it's been mentioned, but it's all like TL and I'm all like DR.

    Should have come to us first :thumbup:
     
  19. OzTurkish

    OzTurkish Member

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    a quick google search

    problem 1

    problem 2

    and 3

    lessen learnt to research before hand hay?

    could've been worse at-least you go it before you completely gunked up your system
     
  20. OP
    OP
    Kismet

    Kismet Member

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    I have completed the clean up. Took all bloody day. Do not use that stuff, it's next to impossible to remove and the manufacture says you can't use any chemical cleaners on it either, just normal water.

    Most of it had settled in the bottom of my reservoir and radiator going by how much came out. I did get a nice dollop out of the cpu block too.

    It stuck to the inside of the tubes regardless of how much water I pumped through so I replaced them.

    My temps are better now. Cpu is at 26. Water at 21. Ambient air temp is 21 too. When I used that Prive95 to hammer the cpu it remained under 50. I'm happy with that because I added the EVGA GTX 780 Hydro graphics card to my loop today too. So Those new lower temps are with extra stuff being cooled.



    the shop was PLE Computers in WA. Other than telling me it was ok to use when it clearly wasn't, they have tried to be helpful. I'm still wondering if they will do the right thing and offer to pay for the replacement tubes and coolant. Thus far they have not even mentioned a refund of the Aurora stuff. That is why I purchased the new graphics card from another shop.


    Not just that. Don't trust the shop. oh.. and later when I email the updated photos of my rig with the new graphics card, the shop will learn that a $20 refund could have gotten them a major sale :p


    I just noticed pccg gave me UV blue instead of clear coolant by mistake. Now I have to buy a UV light so I can enjoy it. lol

    I shortened the tube lengths and added 45 degree joints. It looks a lot better now. I will have to post some more picks once I have all the blotting paper out of it. Currently doing my 24 hour test with a case stuffed full of paper.

    ...now if you will excuse me I am going to go rob a bank. After tightening all those fittings today I don't have any finger prints left, so I am going to go make the most of it and finance my next build.

    Thanks everyone.

    K.
     

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