Hey all, First off, I know very little regarding electronics other than building PC's and the basics, so I'm not totally certain on my terminology, but I'll outline the symptoms and what we've tried and hopefully someone will be able to point me in the right direction . So, I'm helping build a racing sim project and we've encountered an issue with our choice of steering wheel / base - it's a direct drive wheel (Fanatec DD1) it has really strong / realistic feedback, but this also means it's basically a big electric motor with the wheel attached and it seems to be putting out some crazy feedback, which is causing my other USB interfaces to freak out when the wheel is powered on (regardless if USB is plugged in or not). The problem: When the steering wheel is powered on, our brakes stop working all together (load cell on USB controller) and then we start getting random inputs from the shifter (second USB controller) where it will just randomly flicker other button inputs. Both the pedals and shifter run 'Leo Bodnar' Universal USB Interface Boards: http://www.leobodnar.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=94&products_id=183 (one controller on the pedals and a second one controls the shifter) The pedals / shifter work 100% perfect when the steering wheel is powered OFF, as soon as we power it on, the brake sensor stops, the potentiometers for brake and clutch start to jitter and the second controller for the shifter starts to jitter / flicker random buttons too. We contacted Leo Bodnar and they weren't very helpful, they just said it's analog voltage issue and not a problem with their product, which is true but not really giving me much to try out. We contacted the pedal / shifter manufacturer and they're aware of the problem with our setup and had success fixing their test rig by grounding the chassis, which we have done but no success. The whole setup is on an aluminium frame, made by "Simlab" and we have grounded the whole chassis to the mains power (electrician did this for us) so the frame is grounded. We have insulated the shifter / pedals as best we can using thick rubber from a car floor mat, we have also grounded each component too, which helps a bit but still not enough to use them. Album of photos to help description: https://imgur.com/a/BPlVrH8 Things we have tried: Spaced the steering wheel base off the frame with thick nylon washers so it's not touching. Swapped bolts from steel to stainless non magnetic bolts. Added thick nylon washers everywhere we could. Ferrite cores on all USB cables, even smaller ones on the controller boards / wires to sensors. We tried all different USB ports / combinations, but am sure it's not USB related as I can have the wheel base powered on and 1m away from the rig and everything works, as soon as I touch the wheel base and then touch the rig frame the USBs will get the feedback (via me bridging). Run the PC off a separate power outlet to the wheel base / used extension cords so power is from different circuits. Ghetto shielding around the USB controllers with tin foil / tin foil on the wheel base, attempted shielding etc. Had electrician come and ground the chassis for us / made a cable we use. What DOES work: Using the Fanatec brand racing pedals works fine, they're USB as well but have no issues with interference at all, I think they're better shielded from the issues we are having... But the owner is not a fan of these pedals as they don't have right feel to them for real racing. If the problem pedal (sensitive ones) are a good distance from the rig, they work fine. We have also ordered an alternate USB controller from here: http://derekspearedesigns.com/12-bit-controllers.html Which maybe will have a better outcome. Any ideas / solutions would be awesome, we have spent MANY hours on this rig now and no success yet. We also have a second rig with similar parts that we use to troubleshoot but it seems the DD1 wheel really just puts out a heap of interference when it's running.