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Ready Player Eight - Build Log

Discussion in 'Modding' started by Element88, Apr 21, 2022.

  1. OP
    OP
    Element88

    Element88 Member

    Joined:
    Oct 26, 2008
    Messages:
    73
    Location:
    2765
    Update:

    No major changes, just been testing different games for multiplayer capability etc

    . 8th Graphics card has been added (gtx1650 super)
    . All 8x PCs running unigine pull ~1350w at the wall
    . Lined up another gtx1060 to replace one of the gtx970s which should reduce the power consumption by 50-60w
    . Still need to swap out PSU #3 as the coil whine is getting annoying under load
    . Still haven’t managed to get the server PSUs to ramp up their fans (major positive, although the ambient temp in my garage is about 16 degrees)

    that’s it for now
     
    juzz86 and MUTMAN like this.
  2. OP
    OP
    Element88

    Element88 Member

    Joined:
    Oct 26, 2008
    Messages:
    73
    Location:
    2765
    Update:

    Build is torn down to the frame to weld out the remaining joints

    Official weight with all 8 PCs and GFX cards: 26.4Kg

    Power Supply Models:
    HSTNS-PL18 (Coil whine under gpu load, tested with 2-3 different PSU, same issue)
    HSTNS-PD18 x2
    HSTNS-PL29 (quietest so far)

    edit: still haven’t quite decided how to go about the exterior panels, might just end up with full Perspex but am still undecided (waterjet is unavailable until September for alu pieces)

    Cheers
     
    Last edited: Jun 19, 2022
    OCMunkee, MUTMAN and juzz86 like this.
  3. OCMunkee

    OCMunkee Member

    Joined:
    Jun 28, 2004
    Messages:
    1,935
    Location:
    Melbourne, VIC
    Great result! Can’t wait to see final build pics
     
    Element88 likes this.
  4. OP
    OP
    Element88

    Element88 Member

    Joined:
    Oct 26, 2008
    Messages:
    73
    Location:
    2765
    Update:

    Tasks Completed:
    - Welded out the rest of the joints that needed to be
    - Re-Assembled the Complete Build with a new #3 PSU, same PL18 model but a different revision (v5 vs v6)
    - Have been testing various Games, confirming LAN compatibility is working fine under Windows 11 as most are quite dated now
    - Stripped back down to the bare frame and ground down all the welds on the Left and Right Sides
    - Did some testing of a "Brushed" look with some 140 grit sandpaper on the exterior sides of all frame bars
    - Ordered a new later model 750w PSU to replace #3
    - Ordered cables to make the P2 Connector Looms for each Motherboard detachable
    - Started getting quotes for polycarb side panels

    Notes:
    - Welding out the large gaps on the bottom of the frame went horrible! Lots of shrinkage and have lost 2-3mm on each side because of it :mad: (I was rushing as I had a small time window)
    - Frame now no longer sits flat, again due to the shrinkage as that’s only where I can measure a difference (fixed with some different height rubber feet -_-)
    - Overall there has been some movement everywhere since the last round of welding. Nothing that is un-adjustable thankfully
    - Polycarb side panels will cover up most of the damage from shrinkage, but it doesn't help with my annoyance as I should have known better
    - Ive got some 1mm Polyethylene foam tape that will be going down on the sides between the polycarb and the frame to take care of any small bumps/depressions leftover from grinding the welds down
    - So far there have been no cracks in the welds since grinding them down. Hoping it stays that way
    - Not super happy with how the PSUs mounting is working. They aren't held as firmly as i'd like, and at least one of them will move if you try to push it
    - UltraVNC is working well for testing without standing in the freezing cold garage haha

    Whats Next:
    - Higher grit Sandpaper to clean up a few nicks and scratches around
    - Making up some clips/brackets for cable management (un-decided how they will work yet, but they cant foul the side panels like my velcro loops up until now)
    - Drill and Tap holes for mounting the side panels once they arrive
    - Measure up front and rear panels once the side panels are installed (not taking chances with guessing, would rather know the width as the front and back panels will cover the edges of the polycarbonate)
    - Cutting off the excess length on the pcie riser support brackets
    - Locate 2x different Right angle DisplayPort adapters, as PC1 and PC8 with the current adapters I have foul against the frame

    Pics:

    Frame in it's current state:

    [​IMG]

    Shrinkage: (this is the worst corner, 2mm)

    [​IMG]

    T Joint: (ground down, still needs some cleanup)

    [​IMG]

    Brushed Look: (140grit)

    [​IMG]

    Ultra VNC: (Testing Halo)

    [​IMG]

    Thats it for now, Cheers
     
    Last edited: Jun 27, 2022
  5. juzz86

    juzz86 Member

    Joined:
    Nov 15, 2013
    Messages:
    2,252
    Location:
    Forth, NW TAS
    Fuck mate if I turned a frame out like that I reckon I'd throw on a firepot and a carton for the boys!

    I get where you're coming from - it's all you'll ever see, like 2mm to much soft tube with a kink, or 2mm of extra wire that bows out proud from the rest of the bundle. But at least from where I'm sitting it's shit-hot :thumbup:

    Top job mate. You should totally anodise it now :p :thumbup:
     
    Element88 likes this.
  6. OP
    OP
    Element88

    Element88 Member

    Joined:
    Oct 26, 2008
    Messages:
    73
    Location:
    2765
    Update:
    - Build is back together again, minus most of the Graphics Cards
    - Frame has been wet sanded with 400 grit to clean up most of the nicks and scratches (still looks a bit scuffed, but it feels glassy under touch now)
    - New #3 PSU is working a dream, no more coil whine! (Model: HSTNS-PD29)
    - Ordered some 3mm polycarbonate for the side panels (nothing fancy, just grey tint)
    - Tested the DisplayPort 90 Degree Connectors inside the Frame to check clearances
    - Discovered that PCs 1 and 8 while using the 90 Degree DisplayPort Connectors, foul against the frame (oversight due to only thinking about the side panel clearance, currently investigating a resolution)
    - Edit: have also added adhesive cable mounts for the lower support bar to move away from wrap around Velcro for cable management
    - Edit: have also cut down all the overhang on the pcie risers so they no longer foul against the frame when installing/removing a 2PC module

    Notes:
    - Each PCs Display and Peripheral cables will run down to openings on the front and back faces depending on which is closest to each PC
    - There will be 1x DisplayPort and 1x USB3 lead per PC (will have a usb hub on each spot for peripherals, and I also have a few USB hubs with built-in sound cards for users who don't have a usb headset)
    - Front/Back/Top Panels are 99% going to be 3mm Aluminum, but until my dad gets back from overseas I'm unable to get any more waterjet parts cut

    Whats Next:
    - Currently chasing a suitable USB 90 degree adapter/cable that I like and can find locally
    - Make up a bracket for 8x power buttons that I haven't decided on yet with wiring to each PC (I can access the power buttons soldered to the motherboards from underneath for now, but this is not the end-goal)
    - Cut the Polycarbonate to size, drill and tap holes for mounting to the frame
    - Start thinking/drawing up the fan mount locations (will most likely just be mounted directly to the top panel with some vents for airflow)
    - Make up a Bracket for the 10port Switch that will be mounted inside the Front of the Frame and sort out it's power feed (all network cables between the PCs will remain inside the frame)

    Its all coming together, just lots of little things to chip away at :)

    Pic for Interest:

    90 Degree Display Port Connector and Cable Routing:

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jul 2, 2022
    Spyder6052, pH@tTm@N, juzz86 and 2 others like this.
  7. OP
    OP
    Element88

    Element88 Member

    Joined:
    Oct 26, 2008
    Messages:
    73
    Location:
    2765
    Update:

    - Have only been able to spend and hour here and there sporadically since the last update
    - Wired in cables to each of the motherboards PCB power switches (Hot Glue added to keep in place and prevent shorts)
    - Decided to use a 12 throw single pole Rotary Switch with a momentary switch instead of 8x individual power buttons for each PC (only using 8/12 connections)
    - Made up and soldered in some 1pin male/female connectors to the Rotary Switch (otherwise the power button cables couldn't be disconnected)
    - Removed the 3x switches from the Mains Power IO Panel, as I decided that they are not needed
    - Relocated the 10A resettable breaker to make room on the Main IO panel
    - Mounted the Rotary Switch in the old 10A breaker location
    - Installed the Momentary Switch and wired inline between the single pole of the Rotary Switch and ground (power buttons only need to be ground to switch each PC on)
    - Found a TPLink 16 Port switch that runs on 12v (had a separate 240v > 12v module inside it’s case)
    - Cut up the TPLink and made up a bracket to mount it in the bottom of the frame
    - Finally got my Polycarbonate after the 1st batch was not cut to the right size, so I had to wait for replacements to arrive
    - Added some 1mm Foam tape to all of bars on the sides where Polycarb will sit on
    - Drilled/Tapped holes for the Side Panels and Attached the Sides

    Notes:
    - To power on each PC you just rotate the dial to the required position then flick the switch in the IO Panel (acts the same as pushing a button) - then rinse and repeat while moving the dial to the next PC
    - Haven't Cut the 45 degree Corners for the Side panels yet, will do this after having the rest of the panels mounted
    - Haven't started properly thinking about fans yet. will need to do some more measuring as I cant remember if 120mm or 140mm was a better fit for the top panel
    - Haven't tested the power buttons through the Rotary Switch Yet, should work, wish me luck!
    - Might just cut up the 2x incorrect size polycarbonate panels for the front,back,top panels (undecided)

    Pics:

    Motherboard Power Button Cables:

    [​IMG]

    Rotary Switch:

    [​IMG]

    Rotary Switch, Mounted:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    TPLink Switch, Ready to cut up:

    [​IMG]

    TPLink Switch, Mounted:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Profile Shot of the base mounted components:

    [​IMG]

    Side Panels, Mounted:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Thats it for now! Cheers
     
    Last edited: Jul 24, 2022
    juzz86 and MUTMAN like this.
  8. MUTMAN

    MUTMAN Member

    Joined:
    Jun 27, 2001
    Messages:
    11,372
    Location:
    4109
    hold switch on and just spin dial to each position ?? (as long as it is break before make)


    cant wait to see this up and punching (8x) frames out :thumbup:
     
    Element88 likes this.
  9. OP
    OP
    Element88

    Element88 Member

    Joined:
    Oct 26, 2008
    Messages:
    73
    Location:
    2765
    Haha MUTMAN, I hadn't thought of that. might be tempted to give it a try

    Me too, the LAN I was hoping to debut this Build got pushed back, possibly will been in 2-3 weeks. so that's what I'm aiming to have most things done by :)
     
    MUTMAN likes this.
  10. OP
    OP
    Element88

    Element88 Member

    Joined:
    Oct 26, 2008
    Messages:
    73
    Location:
    2765
    Update:

    - This is probably going to stay as-is for the next few weeks, as I wont have time to keep working on the physical build due to work commitments (but will be working on the software side when possible)
    - LAN should be happening on the 13th August, hoping it will be a good 1st trial run to see how everything travels and get a feel for setup
    - Re-Mounted all the PCs and cabled back into power
    - Cabled all the PCs to the switch with the closest appropriate cable length I have lying around
    - Made up a power lead for the switch and verified it powers up successfully
    - Tested the Power On Button and Rotary Switch for all PCs - Success!
    - Added the 8x Right Angled USB adapters and tied up in pairs to each corner for access
    - Re-Installed all 8x GPUs
    - Added the 8x Right Angled DP adapters (found 2x reverse adapters to fix the fouling issues with PCs 1 and 8)
    - Added DP Cables to all 8x PCs
    - Velcro'd and Zip-Tied cables to prevent movement
    - Cut out the 45 degree corners in the Polycarbonate
    - Mounted the Sides to ensure that everything clears - Success!
    - I've started cutting up some of the leftover polycarb for the front and back panels - still unsure if I'll use them though (need a table or a band saw, my jigsaw skills are very questionable when trying to cut straight)

    Notes:
    - Power cable for the switch isn't connected to the correct PSU - Needs to be re-made a bit longer
    - The Polycarbonate scratches VERY easily (my fingernails will mark it), so that I am thinking of finding some clear Vinyl to wrap them (Should have gone with Acrylic, but its very susceptible to cracking when drilling/cutting when it's thin sheet)
    - I'll be running a USB extension out to a small USB hub for each player, hence only running a single port per PC
    - I'm not going to have time to build a Top Panel incorporating the 8x 140mm fans that I am planning before the LAN - will just watch temps, it should be fine :)
    - I need to cut up some appropriate sized foam tape to fill the gaps on the 45 degree corners, the small squares that are there at the moment are just offcuts that I threw in because why not

    Pics:

    Ethernet cables Run:

    [​IMG]

    USB Ports: (One per PC, run in pairs to each corner)

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Sides On: (I'm not taking the protective film off until I have a solution for the inevitable and instantaneous scratches)

    [​IMG]

    DP Cable routing:

    [​IMG]

    That's it for a few weeks most likely, Cheers
     
    u970700, Symon, OCMunkee and 5 others like this.

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