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[WORKLOG] Resurrecting a Lian Li V2000 Plus......It's ALIVE

Discussion in 'Extreme and Water Cooling' started by Paulie_AU, May 19, 2015.

  1. Paulie_AU

    Paulie_AU Member

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    Hey OCAU, appreciate any advice people can lend to this build. Not going to detail all the goodies as most of it is in my signature. I am doing this with bits and pieces I have lying around initially.

    It will be a rigid build using Barrow 14mm fittings and tube in the top and maybe some EK 12mm rigid or soft tubing with barbs in the bottom.

    I have had this case since late last year. It was free from Slacker and I have been looking at it thinking man I need to build in it. Anyhow I got the shits waiting to source bits and have decided to just get into it.

    The case in question has been previously played with (had some holes chewed in it it seems...Slacker assures me that is how he got it) and is missing some bits and pieces. My goal is to get it up and going and then slowly improve on it. The biggest drawcard for me on this is reverse ATX, as my PC sits to the left of me in my little study nook area.

    So this is how it came to me, sorry about the crappy phone pic....
    [​IMG]

    Needed to cut hole to allow cooler mounting and also get cables through to the front of the case. Also had some markups for further cutting but thought I should pause and think about it.

    [​IMG]

    No better way to see where things sit than to start building it. I also modded the holes for the PSU backplate to allow it to sit with the fan facing down instead of the default of fan up with about 5mm of air clearance.

    [​IMG]

    Currently the radiators are an old unknown 120.3 30mm thick in the back and a EK 45mm 120.3 in the foreground. The dodgy perspex (I hate this piece of perspex with such a passion....) that the pump is sitting on is from my previous build which mounted the pump and fan on a 280mm rad sitting in the bottom of the case. My ultimate solution and what I am in the process of gathering funds for is a 180.3 radiator mounted where the EK radiator is and the PSU turned sideways and located at the back of the case.

    The GTX660 (with its block just sitting on it) is there for layout purposes only, the proper build will get my 970 with EK FC670 Nickel clear block. I am also torn on the motherboard. I would really like to grab a Z97X UD5H BK or maybe use my Z97X SOC Force with my 4770K but the Force and 4770K are currently living on my bench. The 3770K effortlessly covers gaming but wont be the best for benching my 970 when I lock it in there with rigid tubing. In reality I will probably move to skylake later in the year and make my Z97 my gaming board.

    Oh and the soundcard is there because the motherboard has an audio problem which seems to drop audio after a few hours of gaming. WTF is with how sound cards are powered and the ugly bloody cable....arrrrghhhhh I really need to either find a nice sleeved extension or modify it and sleeve it myself.

    I will mount the res up on the plate. I have a fair bit of realestate to play with so will ultimately go with a bigger unit.

    [​IMG]

    The case has previously been modified to take a 240mm rad in the top. I have been thinking of various ways to make the hole go away, but think in the end I will just mount a 240mm pulling air into the case from the top through a filter. That way the motherboard part of the case should run positive pressure and with any luck minimise dust entry. :lol:

    [​IMG]

    And another shot. I have some 90 degree sata ports which once I cut the hole a little bigger (on the pen line) will let me run the cables straight through to the back using the bottom set of sata connections on the motherboard. I also need to work out what I am going to do with the 8 pin motherboard power and the GPU power cables for a neat run. I sold off a silverstone short cable kit with my SFX PSU last week before putting this together....... now I need short silverstone cables. :Paranoid:

    I think I will grab some dedicated Silverstone black sleeved so there is no need for extenders and it can come straight from the PSU. Hopefully snaking in from behind the motherboard tray through the massive 8mm clearance. I will cut a hole for the 8pin so it comes out and goes straight down.

    [​IMG]

    Currently my biggest headache is what a cabling mess I will have with drives etc at the front of the case. I was thinking of making a panel to hide the mess but at the same time don't really want to cover the aluminum and will likely polish it to make it nice again. I have moved my HDD and SSD to the bottom area in a Silverstone mount thing that can take another SSD. Not massive amounts of storage capacity but I really don't have a lot of shit to store. And I have a NAS also (in the cupboard) if I ever really need to store more.

    This is what it currently looks like from the front.

    [​IMG]

    I have no Lian Li front bay covers except for the one that still has the Batman sticker on it. I have ordered a Lian Li start/reset 4 x USB3 bay device to go in the top. I ultimately would also like a card reader and a NZXT RGB Hue so I can have a custom light show going so that will almost fill it up. Also will upgrade the DVD RW drive to Blu-Ray at some point. I guess if I am going to run a big case, I might as well make use of all the front bays for stuff I actually want. The current USB/Audio thing at the bottom of the case is coming out, the cables are hideous and really get in the way. It will however leave me with no front panel audio but I am not that worried as I will be using the soundcard for my headset anyhow.

    Cheers, I will update it as I get more goodies and pull it back down to finish the dremel work.
     
    Last edited: Apr 23, 2016
  2. OP
    OP
    Paulie_AU

    Paulie_AU Member

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    My new front panel arrived today.

    [​IMG]

    There is only one problem........ The reset button only depresses about 2mm so doesn't have a chance in hell of reaching the switch. The power button just reaches with a massive press which is as crap as anything. :mad:

    [​IMG]

    This came from Melbourne so I cannot be bothered sending it back. I will install it, see if it works and then make a spacer or something so both of the switches work with only 1mm of depression.

    Gahhhhhhhhh. Not impressed.
     
  3. Kommandant33

    Kommandant33 Member

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    That's ridiculous. You should get a blank panel and make your own! Using something like this
     
  4. OP
    OP
    Paulie_AU

    Paulie_AU Member

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    Yeah I had been thinking of doing that, but I also wanted USB3 so I scavenged the board out of my Coolermaster case but then I realised I was likely going to screw it like every other piece of metal work I get involved with so bought the front panel thinking I had taken the simple route.

    Now I have to modify the bloody thing to make it work. :upset:

    Saddest thing of all is all my mates who were fitter/turners when I was playing with cars now either have changed career or live interstate. No one to whip up my custom designs anymore. And I don't have a working copy of Inventor or AutoCAD and that stupid bloody sketchup program drives me up the wall with how it works. :wired:
     
  5. kEv_

    kEv_ Member

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    thats pretty shit.

    i keep looking at that pic and shaking my head in disbelief

    you can remove that u shaped plate and carefully bend it a bit further down to close the gap?
    you'd probably have to straighten it first

    +1 for the Vandal switches, mine are red tho:)
     
  6. BigDave

    BigDave Member

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    Can you move the switches closer to the buttons fibre washers maybe??
     
  7. OP
    OP
    Paulie_AU

    Paulie_AU Member

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    Simplest approach is going to be spacing the little circuit board closer. Will see if I get around to it this arvo or tonight. Will either use perspex or some hardwood.
     
  8. ipv6ready

    ipv6ready Member

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    That's is crappy from a premium brand.

    Maybe cut a piece of rubber eraser to size And a little bit of glue.
     
  9. sammy_b0i

    sammy_b0i Laugh it up, fuzzball!

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    Little bit of wooden dowel, tiny slice of with hacksaw or dremel, bit of araldite or hotglue and that'll make the reach easier. :thumbup:
     
  10. AMD2400

    AMD2400 Member

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    Always liked these cases, i had a V1000 at one point and the build quality/ panel thickness is very nice.

    Keen to see what you turn it into, i like my cables everywhere but straight, might work for you since your going rigid tubing lol.

    Sucks to hear about the front panel issue, but not really a hard issue to fix, wish i had a 3D printer to solve all my issues haha.
     
  11. OP
    OP
    Paulie_AU

    Paulie_AU Member

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    Oh a 3D printer would be awesome. Fixed it this arvo with a combo of some hard plastic, washers and super thin shims. To add to the stupidity the switches were not the same length nor the panel drilled in the centre. So now the little board is mounted angled to make both switches feel the same in use. Didn't take a picture but it isnt pretty, just functional.

    The old v2000 doesn't really suit the mounting design either so that took a bit of thinking and then drilling due to the wings. All mounted now with changes invisible from the outside. Vandal switch would have been a piece of piss in comparison.
     
  12. Frag_Lord

    Frag_Lord Member

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    Hmmm this case looks familiar, is the top rad grill a thermochill? I swear I bought this case brand new and onsold it!
     
  13. OP
    OP
    Paulie_AU

    Paulie_AU Member

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    Not sure on the thermochill, but it could be the case. Seems to have been around and not had an easy life.

    I currently have it running on air while I wait for some hard tubing.
     
  14. OP
    OP
    Paulie_AU

    Paulie_AU Member

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    So I got my real radiator for the build. I have a picture for comparison purposes against a 120.3 EK radiator.

    [​IMG]

    Only problem is it seems aust post dropped it in transport resulting in this. :upset:

    [​IMG]

    It was packaged well so they must have dropped it on its end. I can use the ports on the other side of course, so instead of trying to rebend it and potentially result in cracking (if it isn't already) I will remove the fan, unscrew the fitting and just transfer the plug across. Seems I cannot get a break with this build currently.

    Due to the location of the ports ending up at the front of the case (rear location wont work due to needing to mount the PSU sideways) I will also fit the 120.3 in the bottom section purely for getting a good location for the run back up to the CPU block.

    Also need to fill the hole in top with a 120.2 rad. I have a spare 120.3 so am considering throwing it in the top, but I think the port locations will end up being gumby.
     
  15. mad_mic3

    mad_mic3 Member

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    Hey paulie, let me know if you need a hand to fix the rad:thumbup:
     
  16. OP
    OP
    Paulie_AU

    Paulie_AU Member

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    Sure mate just hoping no cracking and I will leave it bent and use the other side.
     
  17. /invariance\

    /invariance\ Member

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    It's a shame I missed this earlier, and like usual I'm come in well after the fact, but in regards to your front panel, you can get the tactile switches with different shaft lengths from Jaycar. Just measure/guestimate the distance from the top plate of the switch to the pushbutton shaft with 1mm clearance and see if they have one that comes close.
    Maybe something to keep in mind when your fix finally shits you off. :D
     
  18. Aetherone

    Aetherone Member

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    A pre-cast plate of real carbon fibre does the job very nicely and looks brilliant. They're not to exxy from China, but the month wait can be a drag.
     
  19. BigDave

    BigDave Member

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    Defiantly a job for you mic :thumbup:
     
  20. OP
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    Paulie_AU

    Paulie_AU Member

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    So I decided to attack the damaged radiator. :wired: mad_mic3 kindly offered to fix this for me, however after asking him for some advice I decided to give it a crack myself. Thanks for the tips Mick. :thumbup: Took a couple of photos along the way.

    Removed the paint, with a bit of sanding, then remembered I had paint stripper so swapped to that. Should have started with stripper (sanding caused a problem later)
    [​IMG]

    A little trip to Bunnings netted some goodies. Actually this is the result of two trips. I originally bought brazing rods, but was worried about the 870 degree working temp so went back and got some plumbers solder which works at 270 ish degrees. Went with the proper aquasafe stuff which was more expensive but I have a copper fitting on my house I would like to change so might as well have the right stuff.

    [​IMG]

    No practice, straight into it. This is my messy end job of the left port which was the one previously leaking. Filled the hole nicely.

    [​IMG]

    And then a little bit of leak testing.

    [​IMG]

    After the static leak test, I set up a little loop with radiator, res and pump for some extended testing. The port I didn't solder is leaking past the o-ring of the blanking plug.....grrr seems I may have scratched the surface of the bronze socket with sandpaper. I have since polished the surface smooth so that the o-ring sits nicely but have yet to put the little loop back together. Will try that today.
     

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