run LED lights of garage door light

Discussion in 'Electronics & Electrics' started by havabeer, Dec 12, 2018.

  1. havabeer

    havabeer Member

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    Hi everyone,

    having a small issue with my garage door and its light, when you open or close the door via remote the light comes on. currently its powered a 240v edison screw bulb, max rating of 60w... however these blow quite often for what ever reason (every few months)

    i've tried to put LED and fluorescent bulbs in the socket but they just constantly flicker when turned off but work fine when on.

    two idea's i'd like help with are:

    1. i'd like to run all 6x 7w LED batten lights in the garage when the garage door opens or closes. I'm not quite sure how to setup the circuit for this so that i can also have them operated from the manual switch at the entrance door

    2. run 1 or 2 battens straight from the ES socket. though i'm not sure why the LED's and fluorescent are constantly flickering (internal relay that powers the light might be busted?)

    obviously option 2 is the easiest, but it would be nice to have the whole garage lit up every time we enter or exit
     
  2. merlin13

    merlin13 Member

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    So from what you're saying the socket appears to have low-level volts or some sort still on it when off/closed? That'd be time to ponder a relay isolator, or ideally get the damned thing fixed/replaced then look at using it to control the extra lighting you want.

    As you want lighting in a garage though, personally I'd be inclined to have a motion sensor setup run/powered independently from that sus door opener, that'd trigger the new lights on when you simply wander into the garage.

    This way you don't need to play with the opener if you just need something you left in the car or the garage itself.

    And isolate the "new" lighting from that door controller by doubling up on the mains socket that feeds the opener.

    Some additional cunning wiring, you could have two of more motion sensors running the new lights as well - one near the garage doors, one near any door into the garage. That way you don't need to "centralise" one motion sensor that needs to "see" every entry/exit point.
     
  3. Symon

    Symon (Plugging your Socket)

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    The light flicker is typically due to induction, which is a really common issue with newer lights. You can sometimes fix this by putting a capacitor across the lamp.

    I second the motion sensor idea, I've done this with my garage. One sensor on the back wall which activates when a car drives in or someone walks into the garage from the internal door. I also put in manual bypasses beside this door and the roller door.
     
  4. OP
    OP
    havabeer

    havabeer Member

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    Didnt think of a motion sensor with a bypass.

    I actually also have one of those cheapish remote control relay boxes installed so I can run the door from a custom remote with my gate on it (garage uses some stupid frequency that a learning remote wont pick up)

    My other thought would be to just run a light from it and I can just turn the lights on and off from the car with that
     
  5. Mickatroid

    Mickatroid Member

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    I use sensors. I have an LED strip light on a beam with sensors on either side pointing to the front and back of the carport garage thingy I have. Works well.

    I have been thinking about running an LED back at the house that tells me if the roller door is up or down. I have noticed that there are a bunch of unused outputs on the door controller that can do all sorts of things (including switch as a result of some of those other buttons on most remotes). Perhaps, if yours is similar, you can use one to trigger a relay to switch some 12v lights.
     
  6. OP
    OP
    havabeer

    havabeer Member

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    I've decided to take the advice on board and put a sensor light in instead. At least that way when walking into the garage the light will come on saving me flicking a switch...loading the car...turning switch off...back to the car

    First world problems

    Our opener is older, the only outputs on the back are constant 12v power and an input for a wall mount switch, which is what I use for my remote relay.

    Thanks for the suggestions guys
     
  7. merlin13

    merlin13 Member

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    Assuming there's some current capability behind that, very handy to have to run not only a sensor but also LEDs or LED strings off perhaps...
     

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