Sega Rally Cab to PC Conversion

Discussion in 'Retro & Arcade' started by mR_CaESaR, Sep 15, 2018.

  1. mR_CaESaR

    mR_CaESaR Member

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    Purchased off an AA user on FB (thanks Greg!)

    So here it is! The project cab! And boy is it going to be one hell of a project.

    I put a WTB post to get an L2M2 kit in preparation for this... I just didn't expect it to come so quick on both the project cab and the L2M2 kit. Nevertheless, it has happened so I now have this mammoth task to to.

    [​IMG]

    The end goal is for this to be a Sega model 2 emulation cab (I'll take model 3 or Naomi as well if it's possible, but the main objective is model two true FFB like the aecade). I will interface the original parts with a logitech Driving Force pcb using the L2M2 kit. I've never worked with a racer before so this is going to take a while.

    I haven't spent that much time with it today as I'm occupied doing othet things but the quick 30 or so minutes I spent on it, here's what I found:

    Chassis needs major work. I'm not sure if Joey can fix this. I'll email him and see if it's doable.

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    The neck board is almost in two pieces! :(

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    I'm not sure if the tube is functional...

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    I always thought these were 29 inch? I wonder why this is a 26 inch. I have a spare 29 inch tube and MS9 and would've much preferred to use my spare than have to look for a new or replace the chassis and possibly tube.

    The sides are shot! Don't have any major issues with this as I have plans to replace it with Daytona sides (I'm going to assume they fit perfectly fine?

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    The shifter, pedal, wheel are all intact, but I'm not sure if they are operational.

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    And the game storage section.... A whole spaghetti of wires..

    This is going to be the most challenging build to date.

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    Anyone know where you can buy these 12 core wires?

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    To do/buy:

    - I would say clean, but I want to test functionality before anything, so the first thing is to get the chassis sorted
    - wire up mains to the step down and connect the monitor
    - quickly wire up a jamma harness and switching psu to test the monitor
    - purchase a logitech Driving Force so the L2M2 can be connected up
    - purchase a JPAC to connect the PC to the CRT monitor (will need to use CRT Emudriver)
    - wire up the ffb, L2M2 and logitech Driving Force pcb
    - purchase a daytona vr button panel
    - start configuring the pc to ensure it all works
    - once all that is done and confirmed, then I'll spend time on the aesthetics
    - clean thoroughly
    - purchase daytona sides
    - purchase daytona seat back
    - start playing!

    I seriously thought my guncon/Namco gun project was daunting... That had nothing on how overwhelmed I currently am taking on this project!

    If anyone has input or has done something similar, please feel free to add your comments or insight. I'm going to need as much help as I possibly can.
     
    Last edited: Sep 15, 2018
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  2. OP
    OP
    mR_CaESaR

    mR_CaESaR Member

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    I purchased a non working cab as I didn't care for the game as I was always going to rip it out.

    I will assume all other parts are faulty too, but I honestly don't know. The steering module doesn't look too bad albeit a few wires cut.

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    And of course... It wouldn't be the same if there wasn't chewing gum filth at the back of the wheel :)

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    Is it safe to assume all Sega cabs are interchangeable sides?

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    I wouldn't even know where to start in fixing this panel, so I will eventually purchase some daytona ones - on the hope that they will fit
     
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  3. elvis

    elvis Old school old fool

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    Joey should at least have compatible parts to swap out. If not, Chinese sellers on AliExpress are still selling chassis with pretty standard pin counts that fit popular brands like Nanao.

    Looking forward to seeing how you go with this. Looks like a fun project!
     
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  4. Vanne

    Vanne Member

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    Holy crap!!! what a cool cab. :D

    but seriously, man.. with a cab that cool, id go for some proper steering/shifting/pedals.. that stuff in there is absolute rubbish, as is the logitec stuff. (unless of course your keeping it original, then pls disregard most of my post LOL) Go for some clubsport Fanatec gear, (as some of the cheaper non rubbish gear),the cab will thank you later... AND, you'll be able to get involved with Iracing and run some serious racing sims.. AWESOME cab!!

    Subbed to see what you'll get up to with this. :D
     
    Last edited: Sep 15, 2018
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  5. OP
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    mR_CaESaR

    mR_CaESaR Member

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    You'd probably be the first person ever that I know of calling the model 2 wheel "absolute rubbish", but then again, I don't know too many people with fanatec equipment or other high end racing sim equipment.

    Fanatec gear is way out of the budget. And if I went that route, I'd go a racing sim with motion, but that's not the purpose of this build.

    This cab is purely to give me the closest experience to Daytona USA as I remember playing in the 90's (pretty much all my cabs are for that nostalgic experience, Time Crisis, Astro Cities). I'll definitely be keeping the FFB mech and keeping it as a CRT.
     
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  6. Vanne

    Vanne Member

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    Lol no worries, given the life and battering the original sega rally wheel had to withstand in the arcades, your probably right that i should not be calling it rubbish. I was just saying that instead of the logitech stuff id rather have something that doesn't feel cheap and nasty, esp for a cab like this. You know, maybe your better off seeing if you can fix that original wheel, as i am sure its probably better than the logitec stuff. (def more sturdy) and probably AWESOME for Daytona.... (bloody hell, every time i see the words Daytona... i have to follow it up in my head with "let's go away/born to win!" )

    If your keeping it as CRT (which is awesome) then yeah id love to see the original wheel and stick in there. Lol brings back memories of those corners, and slamming that shifter back a gear.. not sure even my fanatic stuff could put up with that. ;D

    Loved Daytona USA!!! absolutely loved it!!!
     
    Last edited: Sep 15, 2018
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  7. qwertylesh

    qwertylesh Member

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    Awesome stuff!
     
  8. OP
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    mR_CaESaR

    mR_CaESaR Member

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    This is essentially what I want to do

     
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  9. OP
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    mR_CaESaR

    mR_CaESaR Member

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    Spent some time on the cab and just gave it a good clean...

    I'd imagine this is about 20+ years of filth :) :)

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    Check out the pedals!

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    Also managed to get a logitech Driving Force wheel and tested it on the m2 emulator and she appears to run just fine.

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    Time to rip apart this pour soul

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    Voila!

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    Next steps:

    - test the monitor - refurbished chassis is on the way (decided to bin the current one based on Joey's recommendation)
    - solder up the L2M2 interface
    - get some power into the unit
    - work out exactly what I need to do to connect the L2M2 to the current wheel setup and FFB module
    - work out what to do with the original pedals - does this connect to the original logitech board?
     
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  10. OP
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    mR_CaESaR

    mR_CaESaR Member

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    Both L2M2 boards now soldered up! (only need one for now, which is fortunate since the second L2M2 is missing a few components)

    I'll wait to purchase the insulation tabs before I install the transistors onto the heatsink.

    I'm hoping to get my chassis from Jomac sometime this week so I can hopefully get some power to the cab. I really hope the step down transformer is still operational. Will find out soon.

    L2M2 kit courtesy of Ray - thanks again! And of course Andy/homepin who made it all happen as a kit

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    L2M2 soldered up... I really hope I didn't install any components in reverse!

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    The back view.. As clean as I could solder..

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    Next steps:

    - crt chassis and power to the cab
    - work out what I need to connect
     
    Last edited: Sep 19, 2018
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  11. Vanne

    Vanne Member

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    Awesomeness!!! ;)
     
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  12. badmofo

    badmofo Member

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    That's some nice soldering! :thumbup:
     
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  13. gdjacobs

    gdjacobs Member

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    Indeed. Are you a wave machine?
     
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  14. OP
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    mR_CaESaR

    mR_CaESaR Member

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    thanks

    cheers

    lol, I had to google what that is.... hahah, I appreciate the compliment..
     
  15. vk2fro

    vk2fro Member

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    Some very nice soldering work there! well done. I took a peek at the pics and it looks like you got everything in the right way. Mind you apart from the LEDS, two diodes and TO-220 devices, theres not much on that board thats polarised. Take your time plugging in the IC's - those nice machine pinned sockets are a bitch to put the IC's into, and if your not careful you'll end up with bent legs. Tip: IC's often come with the legs slightly splayed. Press them down on the legs on a hard surface to straighten them up - this makes them WAY easier to install. Better yet, use an IC insertion tool - it'll straighten the legs for you :) Subbed - I love Daytona USA :)
     
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  16. OP
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    mR_CaESaR

    mR_CaESaR Member

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    Just completed more procurement

    JPAC - to connect the vga from pc to the crt (unfortunately it's the only way I know at the moment as this is the way I have my groovymame setup)

    Jamma edge harness - to connect the jpac to the cab, will take care of video and possibly a couple of additional buttons for FE management

    Daytona 2 dashboard with the VR panel - hoping the dash is in better condition than my current one, but I'm not sure if it's a straight swap without modification... I'll find out when it arrives. The dash was a bonus since I mainly purchased for the VR buttons.

    Finally, the pac-drive to manage the vr buttons with ramjet's software.

    Hopefully by the time these arrive, Ryan's pcb will be ready for sale to make life much easier connecting the L2M2 to the logitech to the steering module :)

    Fun times!

    [​IMG]
     
  17. GumbyNoTalent

    GumbyNoTalent Member

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    For the side panels fibreglass a repair, if you aren't good with that stuff check with a surfboard manufacturer or boat repair shop. Then if you fussy you can make a mould and make new panels and have Sega and Daytona side panels. :thumbup:
     
  18. OP
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    mR_CaESaR

    mR_CaESaR Member

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    I'll just purchase used ones from ebay.

    I don't mind having a crack or two... It's part of the look :)

    My astro cities have a few black lines I couldn't get rid of but I like that it adds to the character of the 20+ yo machine.
     
  19. elvis

    elvis Old school old fool

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    If you only need video (no control interface to the cabinet via the JAMMA connector) you can just use the video amp:

    https://www.ultimarc.com/vidamp.html

    The only requirements are +5V on pin 9 (standard for most modern video cards). And remember that it doesn't do the 15KHz cutout like the JPAC, so you have to be careful not to feed 31KHz+ to your cabinet for too long (mixed opinions on this - I don't think it's an issue for the boot cycle until the OS loads and drivers kick in to drop it to 15KHz, but some people have an issue with it).

    But if you just want the video amplified to correct levels for an arcade chassis, that's a cheaper option.
     
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  20. OP
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    mR_CaESaR

    mR_CaESaR Member

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    That's pretty cool, but for the sake of 50 bux, the jpac will provide me some level of protection and flexibility..

    At least I can wire up some directional keys and buttons.

    This cab will be configured for 24khz. I haven't really researched much about it, but I think I've read that daytona and Sega rally are 24khz
     

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