Sega Rally Cab to PC Conversion

Discussion in 'Retro & Arcade' started by mR_CaESaR, Sep 15, 2018.

  1. OP
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    mR_CaESaR

    mR_CaESaR Member

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    Curiosity got the better of me, so I switched around the video and the conclusion I have is the core2duo pc is a dud when crt emudriver is installed!

    The same video card installed in the core2duo that kept on crashing works perfectly fine in my i3 setup..
     
  2. OP
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    mR_CaESaR

    mR_CaESaR Member

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    Ok, I'm back to my original issue with the m2 emulator. I can officially say, the root cause has been found!

    I was tipped off on the byoac forums stating a user had the same issue with dvi to vga and the m2 emulator crashing because a speaker was not plugged in.

    I tried again tonight with speakers plugged in and what do you know... Everything works fine with the dvi to vga adaptor!

    I'll probably keep the i3 build just to give me some leg room in power... It'd be good if I can also get model 3 and maybe even outrun or some initial d games..
     
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  3. elvis

    elvis Old school old fool

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  4. Vanne

    Vanne Member

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    awesome effort mate, LOVE IT!!!! :D

    soo much groovy in this thread :D now when can I come over and have a go? :DDD
     
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    mR_CaESaR

    mR_CaESaR Member

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    I had this on repeat for a little while....

    Even my two kids are now singing "DAYTOONNNNNAAAAA Let's go away" and driving the Mrs mad!! :D :D

    Cheers mate... the big sigh will come when I connect the steering and get that FFB :D
     
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  6. elvis

    elvis Old school old fool

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    I play it at least once a month. My family is sick of it, but I love it. :lol:
     
  7. OP
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    mR_CaESaR

    mR_CaESaR Member

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    Got a sneaky hour and a bit to try and identify the wires that I require..

    [​IMG]

    The wiring will look like this. I pretty sure this is all I will require..

    [​IMG]

    Hopefully all goes well and in the next few days, I have a steering wheel that works!
     
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    mR_CaESaR

    mR_CaESaR Member

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    Finally wired up the L2M2 to power and jumped the pins in U7 (1 and 3, 5 and 7)

    What a PITA to get RV1 and RV5 to 20V and RV2 and RV3 to 12.5V!

    I get 19.99 or 20.03 and then when I take a reading another time it goes to 19.95 same thing with RV2 and RV3!

    The good thing is, the L2M2 appears to be working based on the LEDs being powered :)

    [​IMG]
     
  9. elvis

    elvis Old school old fool

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    Load changing on a circuit will also change the voltage. And don't discount cheap multi-meters either.

    +/- 0.05V at 20.00V is 0.25% tolerance, which is fine.
     
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    mR_CaESaR

    mR_CaESaR Member

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    Finally got a solid 20v and 12.5v on the respective sections!

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    The L2M2 is now configured!

    I've got my steering pots, I've got my clutch points and all the respective points on the L2M2. Let's hope I can connect up at some point tonight or tomorrow!
     
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    mR_CaESaR

    mR_CaESaR Member

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    Getting very close to wiring this baby up!

    [​IMG]

    Made a 6 pin connector to wire up the two clutch wires from the L2M2 board and the 3 wires for the steering pot.

    24v is wired to each other and the logitech input signals are wired up.

    I just need to wire up the 100v from the ffb motor to the step down and the two other wires from the ffb into the cw and ccw of the L2M2 and the neutral into the gnd of the step down!

    If all goes well, I should be able to see the wheel device manager and the pots should turn!

    I need to find how to enable FFB in the m2 emulator...

    I'm hoping by the end of tonight I have something!
     
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  12. OP
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    mR_CaESaR

    mR_CaESaR Member

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    Making sure I have my rubber shoes on :D

    I seriously need to clean the work area for safety!

    Nothing like an exposed crt :)

    [​IMG]

    Wires! Wires! Wires everywhere!

    [​IMG]

    OK so the first take of it all wired up has happened and I'm calling it a night!

    Here are the results:

    - Wheel is detected in Device Properties
    - FFB motor engages when steered all the way to the right, but not to the left
    - No FFB is detected in M2 Emulator like the original game, only when I steer all the way to the right
    - Wheel has a "jitter" in device properties
    - Wheel is showing a button pressed, I'm not sure if I have to plug in the main controller pcb from the wheel for the button not to be in a "pressed" status.

    Here are some vids to show some of the things I've observed

    The FFB engaging and the jitter



    First run - wheel appears to steer as expected, but the FFB isn't working as expected.



    Now where to begin with the trouble shooting:

    - Confirm continuity on the clutch
    - Swap the clutch wires around (would this matter?)
    - Find out if there's a setting that has to be "enabled" on .ini file for the M2 emulator
    - Not sure about that jitter on the wheel properties
    - Check if plugging in the pad pcb of the wheel will make a difference to the continually pressed button
    - Any other suggestions?

    It's never easy! :D :D
     
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  13. badmofo

    badmofo Member

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    You're making it look easy though, fantastic progress :thumbup:
     
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  14. Vanne

    Vanne Member

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    freakin amazing progress man!!! :D
     
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    mR_CaESaR

    mR_CaESaR Member

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    Haha thanks...

    Although I think I'm going to be stuck for a little while with my issues
     
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    mR_CaESaR

    mR_CaESaR Member

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    Another day, another attempt!

    Installed the Logitech Gaming Software and went through the calibration of the wheel.

    I'm pretty sure the software driver made both CW and CCW work on each side

    Now to work out how to get the feedback working as it's supposed to in game and I need to figure out where that squeak is coming from when I turn left.



    I've enabled the force feedback to work in the emulator.ini file, but I'm still not getting the feedback I'm expecting in game, only when I engage to the left or right where the wheel stops.

    This looks like it's a software issue more than anything.
     
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    mR_CaESaR

    mR_CaESaR Member

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    Ok. So I'm reporting back!

    Changes to the RV4 didn't take the squeak out, I have a feeling I'm going to have to adjust the belt.

    Made the changes listed in the byoac thread and also increased the ffb in profiler to 150 and it's so much better!

    Here it is in the profiler..



    And here it is in game (of course it's daytona :D)



    I think I'm pretty close to completing the wheel mod, just have to get the pedals working so I can actually sit down on the thing!

    I'm wondering if this the same type of behaviour that's expected from the L2M2? Does the wheel supposed to stay engaged when turned to absolute right or left? Or should it re centre?
     
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    mR_CaESaR

    mR_CaESaR Member

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    I thought I'd take a video from the back to see what the L2M2 is doing. The LEDs all appear to match up.

     
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  19. elvis

    elvis Old school old fool

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  20. OP
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    mR_CaESaR

    mR_CaESaR Member

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    How wrong was I?!

    Tipped by bandicoot on the BYOAC, he stated the following:

    After swapping around the CW and CCW wires on the L2M2, there was no more constant locking on each side and the springs provided the centering of the wheel when the FFB motor stopped!



    That makes the wheel officially a wrap!

    Bring on the pedals!!!
     

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