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Sega VS City

Discussion in 'Retro & Arcade Worklogs' started by darknebula, Jun 25, 2022.

  1. darknebula

    darknebula Member

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    Not really a worklog yet, but i saw this come up in a local buy/sell group and jumped on it before really thinking it through. They are basically the empty shells, original control panels. No wiring, no CRT's, no section to join the two halves together and no top triangular light.

    https://imgur.com/a/sMD03HY

    They look a bit rough, but i think it's mostly dirt etc. I've always dreamed of having my own cab at home one day and would love to hear people's thoughts on whether it would be worth taking it on as a project. I have no experience dealing with wiring and CRT's but not afraid to give it a go.

    I do have a spare 29" Mitsubishi CRT that Jomac has confirmed he has a suitable 15khz chassis for. The chassis requires a 110v isolating transformer (kind of understand this part)
    https://imgur.com/a/YduW5tv

    I have a Mister that i would probably use initially, but open to suggestions on the best way to go.

    Pretty noob to all this but i've enjoyed reading several worklogs on here. If you think it's in the too hard basket for someone with limited experience, happy to onsell this again.
     
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  2. MUTMAN

    MUTMAN Member

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    cool. this will be a dream of several peeps here mate. go for it :thumbup:
     
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  3. MR CHILLED

    MR CHILLED D'oh!

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    Shells look fantastic. Only looks like surface dust and dirt.....reckon she will come up mint with a good clean :thumbup:

    Looking forward to seeing how it all ends up.
     
  4. mR_CaESaR

    mR_CaESaR Member

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    Definitely a lot of work if it doesn't have original parts/wiring, but anything is possible :)

    If you don't want it to be completely OEM, then it's easier to do.

    Looks like whoever the seller was had plans to make them two independent cabs.

    The isolation transformer is required because most chassis only take 100v and naturally we only have 240v here.

    What you generally have in these cabs is 240v going into the cab, then go through noise filter then into an isolation transformer into a 100v switching psu. This psu generally has a 100v ac output to go to the monitor and then it will also handle the DC part of the electricals (12v, 5v, -5v). Once you have something like that done, that's the hard part.

    Connecting JAMMA and the chassis isn't too hard. I've worked on a few candies over the years and I'd like to think I've got some experience on them now so just ask away and I'm more than happy to help where I can.

    Good luck.
     
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  5. OP
    OP
    darknebula

    darknebula Member

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    Hey thanks for the reply mate, I've admired all of your handy work!

    At this stage i'd be happy if it had the outward appearance of being as close to original as possible, but oem on the inside is definitely the plan.

    The previous owner was definitely planning on using as a half a cab, the bottom base plate has been cut in half and there vertical parts that join the two shells is mia. If my wife will tolerate it i may aim to build this back into a single piece at some stage but for now will treat them as individuals.

    My first step will be to clean these up and to test fit my 29" Mitsubishi and assuming it fits order the chassis from Jomac. Is the best way to build a basic frame to grab some steel angle and mount these horizontally top and bottom?

    Is it worth cleaning it up or just straight respraying? the control panel area looks fairly white but the larger body pieces are fairly yellowed.
     
  6. mR_CaESaR

    mR_CaESaR Member

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    Here's a pretty in depth thread about the VS city I found on Arcade Otaku.

    https://forum.arcadeotaku.com/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=21676

    Do you have the 4 mounts to secure the frame on? How are you at fabricating metal? That's the one thing I could never do, so I bought Nanao frames where I could.

    I agree with your first step, do a test fit before anything, just to confirm if it's worth doing.

    I'll try and get pics of the mount that was used in the VS city, I'm sure it's the same as the sega astro city frame.
     
  7. OP
    OP
    darknebula

    darknebula Member

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    it has the 4 mounting points. I have no experience with metal fabrication..
     
  8. mR_CaESaR

    mR_CaESaR Member

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    Just saw your WTB post on the FB AA :D

    I'll tag someone that might be able to help.
     
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  9. OP
    OP
    darknebula

    darknebula Member

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    Champion
     
  10. OP
    OP
    darknebula

    darknebula Member

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    I’ve found someone with a pair of complete frames, including bolts etc for $150 each. Sound reasonable?

    and another guy with just the two horizontal brackets but not a full frame
     
    Last edited: Jun 27, 2022
  11. mR_CaESaR

    mR_CaESaR Member

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    it's all relative.. unfortunately the prices of everything in this hobby has sky rocketed. If you really want/need it, then unfortunately there's not much really you can do
     
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  12. OP
    OP
    darknebula

    darknebula Member

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    So good news and bad news. The bad news is i have Covid and won't be able to pickup the monitor frames until next weekend. The good news i now have some free time to start cleaning up some of the filth on this thing. Using Simple Green and Magic Eraser so far.

    Control panel has come up well

    20220705_024259_3602504E.jpg 20220705_030121_020CFD22.jpg 20220705_030128_0942E597.jpg

    The monitor surround has mostly cleaned up, but there are a few stubborn stains on the side. There is some yellow splashes which wont come off with the magic eraser, not sure what would be best to hit it with next

    20220704_035619_9C38FA62.jpg 20220705_025335_A99BC8BD.jpg

    Stubborn yellow stuff..
    20220705_030215_3295712B.jpg

    The grey monitor bezel also had what looked like left over adhesive all of it, and while attacking this i have now revealed some little white spots!! Have put further cleaning of this on hold for the moment
    20220705_030158_3CFA1D61.jpg 20220705_030154_AAE4D520.jpg
     

    Attached Files:

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  13. OP
    OP
    darknebula

    darknebula Member

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    One more thing, the back of the control panel has a fair bit of rust on it
    20220705_030138_4395E051.jpg
     
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  14. mR_CaESaR

    mR_CaESaR Member

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    Sux you got covid, hopefully it's not too bad.

    Great to see progress with the build. It's looking great.

    This is the point where you need to ask yourself... "am I just cleaning it up and embracing the war wounds and/or imperfections" or.. "yolo! Fk it! I'm going full out" :)

    Reason I say that is, as you've already experienced, simple green and magic eraser can only do so much, by the look of it, to get rid of those stubborn stains, you're going to have to sand it back and you can do that without repainting the shell.

    For the control panel, if the sweat rust isn't too bad (ie. Has really gone through), just wheel wire the surface rust out and seal it with a sealer or if you want to go HAM, take the decal off, remove all surface rust off both at the top and bottom, fit the areas up that rusted with bog, then prime, paint and reapply new decals.

    Looking at what you've got, I would personally just remove the surface rust and apply a sealer.. The control panel art looks like it's in great condition and vinyl repros vs original art is night and day.

    It's all about what you want to do at the end of the day, each option has its pros and cons.. If you go all out, be prepared to spend a lot of time and money as it all adds up. But the satisfaction of seeing the end is a great feeling :)
     
    Last edited: Jul 5, 2022
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  15. OP
    OP
    darknebula

    darknebula Member

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    I think maybe for the moment i'll see what condition the other monitor shroud and bezel are in and possible focus on using the best pieces for one half to begin with. Fairly happy with the job of the eraser and the simple green, while it hasn't removed the yellowing it has certainly lifted the colour up quite a lot.

    I am really impressed with the condition of the control panel art, and from the looks the rust hasn't gone through the other side.

    Part of me would love to go all out and respray everything, but then.. i'll still be left with a versus city thats been cut in half and and missing the top marque and the parts to rejoin it.. I am on pretty good terms with a panel shop though that could assist with the spray work, and i know they would be very fair on pricing.. bloody decisions :)
     
  16. MUTMAN

    MUTMAN Member

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    yer, you have on one hand, the original look is awesome and has that "sited in a fish and chip shop and lived to tell the tales" look we all love
    on the other hand, that minty fresh look is awesome and has a "never sited in a fish and chip shop and lived to tell the tales" look we all love
     
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  17. mR_CaESaR

    mR_CaESaR Member

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    If it were me, I would personally be leaving it as is and not be phased about the imperfections. You'll never be able to get it back to OEM spec, it'd just be a ridiculously expensive exercise. I would get her up and running to a single cab and go from there - if you wish to go down the path of later on, it's easy enough to strip out again and paint.

    There is also another VS that is on the AA page that may even solve a lot of your problems - by the look of it, everything is complete outside of one monitor but who knows how much the person is asking for it.
     
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  18. elvis

    elvis OCAU's most famous and arrogant know-it-all

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    Ditto.

    I've got a Versus City, and it's got a few scuffs, marks, and the usual "Japanese smokers discolouration" going on. Perfectly happy to ignore it all and not bother with a full repaint.
     
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  19. OP
    OP
    darknebula

    darknebula Member

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    this is the sensible option, be different if i had a complete cab on my hands
     
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  20. nimmers

    nimmers Member

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    bit of touch up paint and polish goes a long way with these:

    before:
    [​IMG]

    After:
    upload_2022-7-6_14-39-24.png
     
    Last edited: Jul 6, 2022
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