Semp asks questions about Watercooling

Discussion in 'Extreme and Water Cooling' started by Sempytender, Apr 30, 2014.

  1. Sempytender

    Sempytender Member

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    Semp's Watercooling Q&A

    8/5/2014

    A.1 You pull the trigger on your original list and keep searching eBay/clearance sections for that stuff you 'might need' but will never actually use, which becomes a drawerful (juzz86)

    6/5/2014

    A.1 I didn't actually know Yate did LED fans, but their models are pretty good for the price. BitFenix Spectre Pro's have a fairly unobtrusive noise sig if you need LEDs, I've also seen mention of the Aerocool Sharks and Cougars mentioned above as being good too. If they're going on rads you want decent static pressure, the rads you picked are middle-of-the-road FPI so a good SP will help a bit.

    If LEDs are optional, I came across a good deal on non-lit BitFenix Spectre PWMs last night. You can plug a 3-pin controller to a 4-pin fan no worries, you just leave the PWM wire unplugged. (juzz86)

    A.2 My criteria are high performance and low noise. I like PWM fans, as I use Speedfan to control them.

    I tend to tie every fan in the build, radiator or case fan, to a single sensor and run them all on the same auto speed. Mostly they run at about 550rpm which is inaudible with 7 Spectre Pros in my current build (2x140, 5x120). They also have good static pressure too, which is important when 6 of those 7 fans are on rads. (Ratzz)

    A.3 I found the article below interesting. True Fluid Dynamic Bearing is patented, so there is added cost to use it.
    To get around this, there is a variation which of rifle bearing called Fluid Dynamic Bearing - and so a bunch of fans that are actually rifle bearing are being marketed as using Fluid Dynamic Bearing

    there is a table of indicating who is using what - Bitfenix are using rifle bearing

    http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/artic...-FDB-Fans/1807 (kickmic)

    A.4 If you're using 140mm get the aerocool shark fans (I think you can get coloured ones at pccg but I'm on my phone) otherwise for 120mm get gentle typhoons and find separate leds.

    Edit: sharks: http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?...ducts_id=22980 (Huggy_Bear64)

    A.1 Oh if your practised you can do the build in an hour or so, maybe 2 if you want to take your time, i used to do mini towers in 45min but thats some 10+ years ago when stuff was easy lol (OzTurkish)

    A.2 Five hours and six stubbies continuous work. My latest loop was dead easy to bleed and had no leaks, so that helped. Previous one took days to work bubbles out. (juzz86)

    A.3 I got most of my build done in an afternoon. Leak tested overnight. To be honest most of the time was making fiddly little fan splitters and wiring everything up lol. (mshagg)

    A.4 My build never finishes ... but when building for others as I often do, I think 3-4 hours is a reasonable amount of time to do it properly. (Ratzz)[/b]

    A.1 I have both white and UV lights in my case right now and it looks wonderful (Huggy_Bear64)

    A.1 Given that the difference is about 3 degrees max, get the cheapest?
    This one is neither conductive nor capacitative so it's safe to use on just about every component (I'm pretty sure you could smear it all over your motherboard and it'd still work ) (Huggy_Bear64)

    1/5/2014

    A.1 In the res is the most likely spot. You'll get some water movement, but unless you've got your pump wound out far too much it won't be a raging torrent I've also seen someone put a strainer in before their res and stick it in the tube before that, so it couldn't wander around the loop. I think the strainer would constrict flow a little too much to be of benefit though. (juzz86)

    A.2 Yeah chuck it in the res, just coil it around so it's bigger than the inlet/outlet holes in the res so it can't get sucked in. (Huggy_Bear64)

    A.3 The position of silver in a system depends a bit on what components are being used in the loop. Silver needs good water flow over it to kill critters and some reservoirs like the XSPC Photon D5 or Aquacomputer D5 res have very low water circulation through the actual reservoir body. In that case the silver would be much better located elsewhere. A traditional separate res should have plenty of flow for silver.

    I think they are generally sized so they can't fit through tubes but def don't let it travel anywhere near the pump. It could jam or wreck it.

    I'm not at all a fan of the idea of adding yet more different metal to a loop unless some corrosion protection is used. Although that would make the silver redundant anyway. Others like it though. (Jakusonfire)

    A.4 My Alphacool lighttower allows the unscrewing of the entire top, so I expanded my silver coil slightly and slid it over the centre post in the res like a holey condom. Looks the part and will never shift accidentally.. (LOL) (Ratzz)

    A.1 I'd say save your money and just use water, especially if you're chasing clear, but that's up to you. I'm not sure, but I imagine that fluid has a biocide already, so a silver coil may not be necessary. Minor niggle, but by introducing silver you're introducing another metal and increasing the potential for Galvanic Corrosion. See the table here for an understanding. In an ideal world you'd have the same metal all the way through, but that's usually not possible, so if you intend to run the loop for a long time, with minimal maintenance, there's definite logic in keeping your metals as close as possible. Some fluids maintain they inhibit corrosion, and if you're planning on evolving the rig/loop a lot your parts will probably be out of service before it ever becomes a problem. (juzz86)

    A.2 Don't bother, just buy a few litres of demineralised water from the supermarket. (Huggy_Bear64)

    A.3 Personally since you are going with clear anyway, I'd just buy 4 litres of demineralised water at woolies for under 5 bucks, and either a Biocide or a Silver coil. I think a couple of the small places like The Koolroom might have Biocide in stock, PCCG doesnt. If you want to stick with PCCG, just get a coil for now. (ratzz)

    A.1 7/16 is not a common size (in Australia) these days. You'll find that limits your choices when it comes to fittings. Go with either 3/8 or 1/2 inch instead. 3/8 is easier to work with, but I am about to switch from 3/8 to 1/2 inch purely because I want the chunkiness of the 1/2 inch tube.

    There is no effective difference in performance between the tube sizes. Smaller than 3/8 there probably would be though. Have a look at a few builds and see what you think will look best in your build.

    What looks good? Thats a matter of personal taste. You are building the machine to YOUR tastes, fuck what anyone else thinks. (ratzz)

    30/4/2014

    A.1 Purely looks. As long as the res/s feeds the pump/s directly, you pick whichever one you can fit, or whichever one you like the look of (juzz86)

    A.2 There are functionality advantages in convenience of use, aesthetic differences, but no difference in performance at all of course, they are all just water containers with inlets and outlets in the end. You dont even actually need a res at all, but they make filling, bleeding and maintenance much easier.

    Cylinder res gets rid of air quickly, can be very easy to fill, and usually has more capacity than a bay res, which makes initial priming of the system much easier too.

    They are usually pretty visible too, so potentially a great decoration or feature, much prettier than a bay res. If you have space issues though, sometimes there just isnt room.. particularly with a small case and a couple of long GPUs.

    A bay res will often allow much better concealment of tubing and stuff if you dont want it to be seen. A dual bay res is better than a single bay because more capacity makes maintenance easier..They can be hard to fill and hard to get rid of air too, although its not such a big job to at least run a filler through the top of the case usually to solve that problem.

    A bay res with pump can resonate through the case and be louder than a tube res setup.

    A small box res has the same advantage as a single bay res, its size.. but has the added benefit of being a potential decoration or feature like a tube res. (Ratzz)

    A.1 No. Intel can't tell you've not used a heatsink, unless you de-lid lol. (juzz86)

    A.1 compressed air is probably safer but that's not to say people don't yolo it and just use a vac (deluxe)

    A.2 Anti-static bristle brush and Contact Cleaner for me, as I don't have a compressor. Usually a brush, a quick douse in CC and evaporate to dry. Even gets fuzz off ROG heatsinks, and usually only WD40 will do that. (juzz86)

    A.3 I've never left my loop unmolested long enough to need to disassemble it for cleaning. I think most people are probably the same. But I've seen people say every 3 months, and others say every 2 years. This might relate to a previous question I wonder.. are the people who clean often using tinted coolant? (Ratzz)

    A.1 you could cool CPU+GPU on 1x360 rad with good fans no problem. 360+240 will keep things nice and cool, plus you could use quieter fans if so desired. (deluxe)

    A.2 I've had a 3770K @5GHz running on Prime with a GTX660 overclocked as far as I can get it with just a 240mm. The chip got a little warmer than I would have liked, the water temps were quite low, and the GTX660 was barely breaking a sweat. However, a hotter graphics card would make a big difference. (Ratzz)

    29/4/2014

    A.1 Buying one that matches the colour scheme you want will always make life easier. Or populate all you PCI slots then you wont see them hehe quad graphics yo! (Bobster)

    A.2 Pretty much. It can save you a lot of effort and money to have your colours decided upon before you start. In my instance, I was keen to get my feet wet and had always tried to colour-match as best as possible, so wasn't too fussy. I am a little more picky now though. Decide on your colours first if aesthetics are important to you. (juzz86)

    A.3 These days there are plenty of options by various companies that offer almost identical performance. So just find the one that suits you. Generally though, you can't go wrong with black/white tubing.

    I tend to start with the motherboard that does everything I need it to do and build my system and colours around that, as gpu's/tubing and the like are much more customisable.. eg your gpu's waterblock can have very neutral colours and are much easier to paint or cover in the colour you want. (Razorz)

    A.4 I've changed colour schemes a few times lately. I've come to the conclusion that if you use neutral colours for your tubing and fittings, it saves you having to replace it all if you switch out your board. (Ratzz)

    A.1 Depends entirely on personal preference mate. UV if you dig it, colours if you don't, nothing if that's your choice. You can use coloured lights to 'hide' some colours if they're bright enough, or white to enhance them. You'll get slightly warmer light from CCFLs than LEDs, but LEDs don't require inverters or as much power. They're also easier to stow in some cases. I'm on a black/white kick, so it's white LEDs for me personally. (juzz86)

    A.2 The cheaper UV lights arent quite low enough on the spectrum though, so you will get a purplish glow from most of them. True UV is better if you can find it as its pretty much invisible to the naked eye, but highlights the tubing.

    LEDs will give you a more localised light spread though, so you will have dark and light areas with the areas that are lit being quite strongly lit, whereas a cathode tube will light the whole case more easily and evenly but probably with a softer light than the harsh LEDs. (Ratzz)

    A.1 Depends on airflow of you case and volts going to cpu, they can get very hot depending on overclocks (Bobster)

    A.2 Just for looks. They do improve VRM/chipset temps, but even the LN2 guys who chase records don't usually waterblock their boards. Some boards look amazing dressed up though. (juzz86)

    A.3 f you find the right review for the motherboard you're after, they will tell you what temps the motherboard vrm etc is at during their overclocking stages and you can determine whether they need it or not. But the general answer is, purely aesthetics. (Razorz)

    A.1 Clear premix is alright im using that now but silver coil and distilled is better and cheaper if you change the coolant a lot. (Bobster)

    A.2 Many schools of thought here. Some swear by automotive coolants, bottled coolants or whatever. Most here though, recommend plain old DI water with either a Biocide (Liquid Utopia or similar) or a silver kill coil. Then you can either dye it if you want (many schools of thought on this, too) or just run coloured tubing. (juzz86)

    A.3 I go plain demineralised water and a silver coil personally, although coils go black after awhile (they are supposed to) and will need replacing occasionally. I would go biocide instead if PCCG had any though. (Ratzz)

    A.1 Buy off the forum will save you $$ (Bobster)

    A.2 Haven't ordered from them yet, but just putting stuff in the cart the key seems to be to order loads and the price comes down, or order a few small things together. At the end of the day that's just International shipping though - you've gotta make the order worthwhile to justify it. (juzz86)

    A.3 It is a certain weight you can't go over, so if you order a few little things here and there, the postage will stay under 10 dollars usually and get to you in under 2 weeks. But yea once you go over a certain point, international shipping goes through the roof. Best to go through thekoolroom and pc case gear... gammods used to be an option (still sad about the shut down)... (Razorz)
     
    Last edited: May 9, 2014
  2. bobster

    bobster Member

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    Buying one that matches the colour scheme you want will always make life easier. Or populate all you PCI slots then you wont see them hehe quad graphics yo!

    I prefer White Light to show off colour coded items or Coloured Light for plain setups ie all black or etc.

    Depends on airflow of you case and volts going to cpu, they can get very hot depending on overclocks

    Clear premix is alright im using that now but silver coil and distilled is better and cheaper if you change the coolant a lot.

    Buy off the forum will save you $$
     
  3. juzz86

    juzz86 Member

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    Just my two pence mate. Good topics for discussion :thumbup:
     
  4. OP
    OP
    Sempytender

    Sempytender Member

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    Thanks guys! I'll amend my original post and put answers in-line so if anyone else asks them, they can see the answers easily :)

    Hopefully people are happy for me to keep posting my queries here :) (and anyone else post questions too, I'm not over-protective)
     
  5. Razorz

    Razorz Member

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    Q. How do you guys solve the problem of colour coordinating the motherboard.

    This is the part of your build that no one can give you the answer to.. it's completely up to you. If you want a certain colour scheme you're going to have to make do with what is on sale now, or mod them/paint the parts yourself. These days there are plenty of options by various companies that offer almost identical performance. So just find the one that suits you. Generally though, you can't go wrong with black/white tubing.

    I tend to start with the motherboard that does everything I need it to do and build my system and colours around that, as gpu's/tubing and the like are much more customisable.. eg your gpu's waterblock can have very neutral colours and are much easier to paint or cover in the colour you want.


    Q. Motherboard waterblocks - necessary for overclocking or just a nicety?

    They will improve the temps of your components, but unless you're going for that extreme overclock.. those components have already been sufficiently cooled by passive heatsinks and just add restrictions to your cooling system. If you find the right review for the motherboard you're after, they will tell you what temps the motherboard vrm etc is at during their overclocking stages and you can determine whether they need it or not. But the general answer is, purely aesthetics.

    Q. A lot of people talk about FrozenCPU for bits and pieces but their shipping is ridiculous - am I missing something or is there a trick to getting stuff from them with decent shipping costs (i.e. not $100+ shipping for a rad and res)?

    It is a certain weight you can't go over, so if you order a few little things here and there, the postage will stay under 10 dollars usually and get to you in under 2 weeks. But yea once you go over a certain point, international shipping goes through the roof. Best to go through thekoolroom and pc case gear... gammods used to be an option (still sad about the shut down)...

    But yes I completely second the purchasing of goods from the forums.. my build has almost 75% of its components purchased from the forums.. huge savings made there.
     
  6. Ratzz

    Ratzz Member

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    I've changed colour schemes a few times lately. I've come to the conclusion that if you use neutral colours for your tubing and fittings, it saves you having to replace it all if you switch out your board.

    My current build is waiting on a new board to replace a dud, and I've decided to wait for Z97, but I have white tubing and black fittings coming so that no matter what board I buy, the rest wont clash. I recently swapped my black ram for red ram on the premise that I plan on buying a ROG board, but I am kinda regretting it now because if I do change my mind about the board, the ram is going to clash with any colour but red.

    Blue tubing would look arse on anything but a board which is predominantly blue for instance, but black or white goes with anything. Black tubing is good if you want the tubing to be less prominent, but white tubing highlights the water cooling better. No point in transparent tubing at all unless you are using colour in your water, you cant see water in a tube, just colour.

    Again, lighting depends on the effect you want. Since most tubing is UV reactive, UV suits pretty much everything. The cheaper UV lights arent quite low enough on the spectrum though, so you will get a purplish glow from most of them. True UV is better if you can find it as its pretty much invisible to the naked eye, but highlights the tubing. White comes up particularly well under UV (think nightclub and white shirts...). Some older mobos had UV reactive parts on them too but thats not so common these days.

    I'm going with LED UV lighting for the case, and adding coloured LEDs to the res only, so if I want to change colours its just a couple of LEDs to change on the res. If you had a Raystorm block with its pretty lighting you would just change the LEDs in that to match as well.

    LEDs will give you a more localised light spread though, so you will have dark and light areas with the areas that are lit being quite strongly lit, whereas a cathode tube will light the whole case more easily and evenly but probably with a softer light than the harsh LEDs.

    Personally I think less is more when it comes to lighting. Subtle rather than in your face.

    I'm thinking I will finish up with a red and black ROG board with a few strategically placed UV LEDs for the case and red LEDs in my res. I am definitely not going with LED fans though, I think they overpower the colour scheme. Because I am going with white tubing and black fittings though, it doesnt matter what board I buy, it will still look good by simply changing the LEDs in my res.

    It seems to me that although they can only be a good thing, the extreme clockers dont bother. I hope to have one on my board (whichever that board turns out to be), but its purely aesthetic for me.



    Everyone has different thoughts on this, but the majority seem to like no additives beyond a biocide. I've seen a few blocks with stains and buildup in them in various threads though, and on blocks that I have bought secondhand, so I err on the side of safety. I go plain demineralised water and a silver coil personally, although coils go black after awhile (they are supposed to) and will need replacing occasionally. I would go biocide instead if PCCG had any though.

    After waiting more than a month for PCCG to come up with some fittings that were supposedly in stock when I ordered and payed for them, and the limited range of choices available, I will be checking out FCPU on my next order I think.

    I've heard they are great to deal with, but its definitely a matter of how much you order.. small or large orders seem reasonable on shipping but something like a single heavier item like a big rad is expensive. Sometimes a single item might push you over weight limits and send the shipping through the roof.

    Cant offer a definitive answer on that though since I havent actually bought anything from them, just run an order through the shopping cart and calculate shipping before you buy is how I plan to do it. Trying to add or remove things from the order to see how much it affects the shipping.
     
    Last edited: Apr 30, 2014
  7. OP
    OP
    Sempytender

    Sempytender Member

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    Thanks for the extra answers.

    I've got some new questions for you :)

    1. I've seen lots of people use basically 3 different reservoirs - single/dual bay res, cylindrical res (often with pump combo/bottom) and small box res (like the Alphacool one which LOTS of people use). Is this purely an aesthetic choice or is there functional reasons why, for example, people pick the Alphacool one?

    2. Does using a water cooled CPU block void your CPU warranty? I get mixed responses - some say that it always voids, some say only if overclocked and some say there is no problem.

    3. Compressed Air or Vacuum Cleaner for getting rid of dust down the track once build is completed? Would you disassemble your loop and clean individual components and how often?

    4. I read somewhere that it's 1 x 120mm radiator space per standard clocked component and 2 x 120mm radiator for overclocked components. So, for me, with CPU and 1 GPU, a 360mm + 240mm rad should be enough?

    Thanks guys!
     
  8. deluxe

    deluxe Member

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    Both functional and aesthetic- a bay res is often used when there is not much space for a res inside the case, as many incorporate the pump as well.

    these are not as quiet as a properly attached pump inside the case

    not sure about this- however unless you poured water on the chip itself, it would be difficult to prove you were using a waterblock

    compressed air is probably safer but that's not to say people don't yolo it and just use a vac ;)


    you could cool CPU+GPU on 1x360 rad with good fans no problem. 360+240 will keep things nice and cool, plus you could use quieter fans if so desired
     
  9. Ratzz

    Ratzz Member

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    I hate to try and create the impression I know everything, because I am a noob too. Had a couple loops happening, thats it. I'm pretty much simply relating my own experience over the last year or so, so I've probably just made all of the mistakes you would have too... hopefully I can help you avoid making the same ones.

    I've wasted a metric shit ton of money on bad decisions.

    I believe my answers to be correct. If not, I hope I dont get flamed too much lol.. at least I am admitting it :)

    I'm posting to try and add to the topic, not because I think I am an expert.

    The format of this thread is an excellent idea, it has the potential to save lots of noobs lots of money, consolidating stuff like this into one place.

    I know all my posts are too wordy, feel free to paraphrase as needed :lol:

    I have an Alphacool light tower. I bought it because it looks pretty cool, and doubles with its waterfall effect as a very visible flow indicator. In the end, thats the deciding factor.. what you actually want your machine to look like. I would have chosen whatever res suited my vision of what I wanted, regardless of what style it was.

    Something like an XSPC Photon looks great, has no pump clutter with the pump attached directly too it so can look extremely neat.

    There are functionality advantages in convenience of use, aesthetic differences, but no difference in performance at all of course, they are all just water containers with inlets and outlets in the end. You dont even actually need a res at all, but they make filling, bleeding and maintenance much easier.

    Cylinder res gets rid of air quickly, can be very easy to fill, and usually has more capacity than a bay res, which makes initial priming of the system much easier too.

    They are usually pretty visible too, so potentially a great decoration or feature, much prettier than a bay res. If you have space issues though, sometimes there just isnt room.. particularly with a small case and a couple of long GPUs.

    Of course, occasionally the opposite may apply, and the only spare space you have in the entire case just happens to be the right size for a 150mm res :)

    Bay res has the advantage of using what often is wasted space, one or two of the bays. Sometimes they are no good too though, its pretty common to remove all of the bays to stick a rad in instead.. in which case you have to fall back to the tube res again.

    A bay res will often allow much better concealment of tubing and stuff if you dont want it to be seen. A dual bay res is better than a single bay because more capacity makes maintenance easier.. but a single bay res with a built in D5 is sufficient for almost any system and takes bugger all space.. extremely compact and just as effective as any other system.

    They can be hard to fill and hard to get rid of air too, although its not such a big job to at least run a filler through the top of the case usually to solve that problem.

    A bay res with pump can resonate through the case and be louder than a tube res setup.

    Some bay res can make lovely watery noises that will keep you heading to relieve your bladder :). I had one, I dont know how common it is though.

    A small box res has the same advantage as a single bay res, its size.. but has the added benefit of being a potential decoration or feature like a tube res.

    My assumption is that cooling is cooling and it wouldnt void your warranty. I cant for the life of me think of how they would be able to tell anyway on an umolested chip. A heatsink is a heatsink..
    I cant see how they can tell if its been overclocked, and given that they sell you overclockable chips for that precise purpose I cant see that they have a leg to stand on warranty wise. I repeat, thats my assumption.

    I'm pretty confident that I voided my warranty when I delidded though....

    I would never use a vacuum cleaner. I cant explain why, I just have visions of some kind of static being created by the machine. Its just OCD lol I have no basis for it. I use compressed air.

    I've never left my loop unmolested long enough to need to disassemble it for cleaning. I think most people are probably the same. But I've seen people say every 3 months, and others say every 2 years. This might relate to a previous question I wonder.. are the people who clean often using tinted coolant?

    I've had a 3770K @5GHz running on Prime with a GTX660 overclocked as far as I can get it with just a 240mm. The chip got a little warmer than I would have liked, the water temps were quite low, and the GTX660 was barely breaking a sweat. However, a hotter graphics card would make a big difference.

    IMO a CPU and GPU of any kind, both overclocked to the max, would be fine with a 360mm. Again.. just my opinion. MOARAD is way cool, but unnecessary.
     
    Last edited: Apr 30, 2014
  10. juzz86

    juzz86 Member

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    I'm the same as Ratzz mate, nowhere near an expert just relaying experiences. I like this discussion, because I'm learning too. I've also wasted a fuckload of money on stuff that's unnecessary lol :thumbup:
     
  11. Huggy_Bear64

    Huggy_Bear64 Member

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    I think the "wasted mountains of money on poor decisions" thing is pretty universal with watercooling. Learn by doing :p
     
  12. OP
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    Sempytender

    Sempytender Member

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    Thanks guys for the answers! :)

    Anyone else has questions..just post em and I'll add em. :D
     
  13. OP
    OP
    Sempytender

    Sempytender Member

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    Mooooar questions:

    Q. Ok, so where would a silver coil go in your loop? The logical place seems the reservoir but, I mean, won't it dance around in there? And couldn't it get sucked into the pump? Or does it just shoot around the loop like a bullet?

    Q. I'm pretty sure I'm going to get XSPC EC6 clear fluid for my loop ($19 a litre). Is this the way to go (and what would you need to add to this to make it ready for the loop? do you even need a silver coil with this coolant? )?

    Q. I'm thinking of going an orange flavoured build - orange cable sleeving, orange LEDs in blocks and res etc etc - I can't, for the life of me, find 7/16" tubing in orange UV. Do you think clear tubing and clear coolant in a case with orange lights will still be attractive? Or can I buy different compression fittings and get different sized tubing?
     
  14. juzz86

    juzz86 Member

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    Also, NZXT have just released a few new colours in the H440, one that would fit particularly well.
     
  15. Huggy_Bear64

    Huggy_Bear64 Member

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    Q. Ok, so where would a silver coil go in your loop? The logical place seems the reservoir but, I mean, won't it dance around in there? And couldn't it get sucked into the pump? Or does it just shoot around the loop like a bullet?

    Yeah chuck it in the res, just coil it around so it's bigger than the inlet/outlet holes in the res so it can't get sucked in.

    Q. I'm pretty sure I'm going to get XSPC EC6 clear fluid for my loop ($19 a litre). Is this the way to go (and what would you need to add to this to make it ready for the loop? do you even need a silver coil with this coolant? )?

    Don't bother, just buy a few litres of demineralised water from the supermarket.

    Q. I'm thinking of going an orange flavoured build - orange cable sleeving, orange LEDs in blocks and res etc etc - I can't, for the life of me, find 7/16" tubing in orange UV. Do you think clear tubing and clear coolant in a case with orange lights will still be attractive? Or can I buy different compression fittings and get different sized tubing?

    I wouldn't bother with 7/16", just get 3/5"ID 5/8"OD, it has a thicker wall (smaller bend radius and less likely to kink, also holds onto barbs really well) and IMHO looks better. If you really want thick ugly tube penises taking up all the space in your case, you can always get 1/2" tube, but bigger tubing is harder to work with and IMO looks really ugly.

    I would also recommend barbs for looks, but compression fittings are much easier for a beginner to use, so probably get comps.
    Barbs are harder to get tube onto, and almost impossible to get the tube back off if you make a mistake or you want to rearrange the loop. Comps are much easier to put tube onto, and tube just slides right off once you take the compression ring off, so mistakes are less likely to result in cutting tube.

    Also on the subject of tube, do yourself a favour and get one of these. Worth its weight in gold :thumbup::thumbup:
     
  16. Jakusonfire

    Jakusonfire Member

    Joined:
    Jun 16, 2012
    Messages:
    512
    Location:
    Newcastle
    The position of silver in a system depends a bit on what components are being used in the loop. Silver needs good water flow over it to kill critters and some reservoirs like the XSPC Photon D5 or Aquacomputer D5 res have very low water circulation through the actual reservoir body. In that case the silver would be much better located elsewhere. A traditional separate res should have plenty of flow for silver.

    I think they are generally sized so they can't fit through tubes but def don't let it travel anywhere near the pump. It could jam or wreck it.

    I'm not at all a fan of the idea of adding yet more different metal to a loop unless some corrosion protection is used. Although that would make the silver redundant anyway. Others like it though.
     
  17. Ratzz

    Ratzz Member

    Joined:
    Mar 13, 2013
    Messages:
    7,618
    Location:
    Cheltenham East 3192
    Silver coils are pretty big. As they come out of the plastic vial they are shipped in, probably 30-40mm long and 15mm thick? Never actually measured one. Unless you have massive flow in your res, its not going to move around or go down a hole, they arent heavy but heavy enough. Just chuck it loose into a res is fine. There really isnt anywhere else to put it.

    If you only have a couple G1/4 holes to feed it into, you can screw it through a hole like a corkscrew until it drops in.

    My Alphacool lighttower allows the unscrewing of the entire top, so I expanded my silver coil slightly and slid it over the centre post in the res like a holey condom. Looks the part and will never shift accidentally.. but will have half the surface area of the silver not properly exposed to the coolant, since the inner surface is against the post.

    I plan on getting rid of it eventually and adding biocide instead.

    Reading the specs for this coolant on PCCG, it is a corrosion inhibitor (unnecessary if you arent mixing metals in the loop) but says nothing about containing a Biocide. It may have one, but the description doesnt mention it. You might want to investigate further if you are going in that direction, you may need either a Biocide or a Silver kill coil to go with it.

    Personally since you are going with clear anyway, I'd just buy 4 litres of demineralised water at woolies for under 5 bucks, and either a Biocide or a Silver coil. I think a couple of the small places like The Koolroom might have Biocide in stock, PCCG doesnt. If you want to stick with PCCG, just get a coil for now.

    7/16 is not a common size (in Australia) these days. You'll find that limits your choices when it comes to fittings. Go with either 3/8 or 1/2 inch instead. 3/8 is easier to work with, but I am about to switch from 3/8 to 1/2 inch purely because I want the chunkiness of the 1/2 inch tube.

    There is no effective difference in performance between the tube sizes. Smaller than 3/8 there probably would be though. Have a look at a few builds and see what you think will look best in your build.

    What looks good? Thats a matter of personal taste. You are building the machine to YOUR tastes, fuck what anyone else thinks.
     
  18. OP
    OP
    Sempytender

    Sempytender Member

    Joined:
    Apr 14, 2014
    Messages:
    149
    Thanks for replies guys! Added to the first post.

    More questions coming. Anyone else?
     
  19. OP
    OP
    Sempytender

    Sempytender Member

    Joined:
    Apr 14, 2014
    Messages:
    149
    New Questions:

    Q. Talk to me about fans. I get mixed answers about what's the best path.. My 3 criteria are LOW NOISE, non-pwm and Shexy Blue LEDs. What have you heard about Yate Loon (Saw someone recommend them)?

    Q. How long did your build take you? Start to finish (obviously actual work time..not "oh crap, I just burned out my motherboard with fluorescent green UV liquid" hehe)
     
  20. OzTurkish

    OzTurkish Member

    Joined:
    May 2, 2014
    Messages:
    303
    Location:
    Adelaide
    The couger 120 and 140mm fans are alright decent CFM but lowish static pressure, the bitfenix specture pro's are worth a look aswell

    Oh if ypur practiced you can do the build in an hour or so, maybe 2 if you want to take your time, i used to do mini towers in 45min but thats some 10+ years ago when stuff was easy lol
     

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